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What length shock did you get?
The 52.5 isn’t a normal size. Did you Find a 52.5 or go with a 55 or 50 stroke?
Levo SL Gen 1 Levo SL Custom Builds
- Thread starter helivate
- Start date
The 52.5 isn’t a normal size. Did you Find a 52.5 or go with a 55 or 50 stroke?
Firekid
Member
jcmonty
Well-known member
Any updates on ride quality with this shock? Particularly keen on how you find bottom out support with the coil and no progressive bottom out function. They are having a 25% off right now on all their suspension products - so fairly good value
Firekid
Member
Hey there! So, given all the crazy COVID stuff which kicked in literally a few days after I got my bike, I've only been able to take it out a few times. I absolutely love the shock though, even though I have not ridden it in any situation where I would potentially bottom out yet. It has incredibly smooth and linear compression -- so it doesn't "bunch up" the way my Fox air shock would as you approach the end of the travel range.
As I recall, the preload on the spring can and should be set at a point that eliminates the risk of bottoming out—the preload is based on rider weight and amount of sag desired. If the preload is too much, it will reduce the amount of travel the spring has throughout the compression range and it will completely compress the spring, causing it to seize, which is not only jarring if it happens, but can also crack a carbon frame which is now forced to absorb the shock.
I am no shock expert, but that's what was explained to me at the shop. As long as the length of the coil exceeds the length of available travel, you can't bottom out. So, you have to make sure your preload is not set at a point where this is a possibility. At least that's how I understood it.
So far I love the shock. I've probably used about 80% of it's travel range and I love it. I actually forget the bike even has a shock -- in a good way -- its so smooth and linear that I forget it's there. And for 25% off, that's a screaming deal.
As I recall, the preload on the spring can and should be set at a point that eliminates the risk of bottoming out—the preload is based on rider weight and amount of sag desired. If the preload is too much, it will reduce the amount of travel the spring has throughout the compression range and it will completely compress the spring, causing it to seize, which is not only jarring if it happens, but can also crack a carbon frame which is now forced to absorb the shock.
I am no shock expert, but that's what was explained to me at the shop. As long as the length of the coil exceeds the length of available travel, you can't bottom out. So, you have to make sure your preload is not set at a point where this is a possibility. At least that's how I understood it.
So far I love the shock. I've probably used about 80% of it's travel range and I love it. I actually forget the bike even has a shock -- in a good way -- its so smooth and linear that I forget it's there. And for 25% off, that's a screaming deal.
I think that's a bit extreme,you will have a bottom out bumper on the shock so you wont transfer any massive shock into the frame! Just go by 'no more than 3 turns of preload' and you should be alright any more and you need a different spring. Thats why I prefer Air sprung weight varies too much, summer packless ride spring 1, midwinter full on day out need spring 2, too much pfaff for me.
Firekid
Member
Good point about the bumper. I've only used the bike for about 50 miles so far, so still getting used to how it rides, but overall I've been impressed with the shock's ride quality.
jcmonty
Well-known member
Thanks for the report. Sounds like a good shock! Hard to find much rider feedback on them as of yet.
Other question I had was what offset you were running on the 160mm 36? I am curious to know if people are going shorter offset and to what effect, if any are noticed.
Anyone tried 27.5” yet both out front and back?
jcmonty
Well-known member
Someone posted on the “owners thread” recently . Super lightweight build too.
I haven’t gotten around to it, but was going to play with a mullet setup and maybe full 27.5 at some point
Ahh cool. Will have a look.
The 160 fork I got raises the BB height to 351mm which is quite high. I think @Gary mentioned 27.5mm will drop BB by 19mm, so interested to see how it rides with 27.5 and BB height at 332mm.
Mullet won't. Switching BOTH wheels between 29" and 27.5" (assuming similar volume tyres) lowers/raises BB by around 19mm.
Swapping just the rear wheel of a 29er to a 27.5 will drop the BB roughly 1/3 less (depending on wheelbase/chainstay length)
While increasing a 27.5 bike's front wheel only to a 29" will raise the BB somewhere around 1/3 (again dependent on wheelbase/stay length)
Was thinking changing both. I’ve a set of 27.5 wheels here that I might try in it with a 160mm fork.
29er 160mm fork? or 27.5 160mm fork - axle to crown will be significantly shorter if you're swapping to a 27.5 fork
also, if using a 29er fork what's its' off-set?
51mm offset 160 29”
jcmonty
Well-known member
I have a 160mm, 44mm offset fork as well along with an offset bushing. I will measure the BB height when I put her back together. I don't get the bike feeling too high and actually had a few pedal strikes on some rockier trails yesterday - more due to bad technique/not riding that trail in a while though.
Still will try the mullet setup though and take some measurements.
51mm is a pretty big offset for a 27.5 wheel. and it'll steer quite differently to a more standard 44-42mm 27.5 fork offset... and very noticably differently to a short 37mm offset 27.5 fork. Whatever you fit you WILL adjust to. though how well/quickly is down to the rider.
Like me, you ride enough different bikes you should adapt pretty quickly
But... if you have a shorter offset fork kicking around. I'd fit that as handling will remain more familiar.
thing most folk miss about mismatching wheelsizes/offsets, altering angles, lowering and changing shock/fork travel is that EVERYTHING affects EVERYTHING.. so you actually can't just attribute any differences you notice to just the ONE thing you changed. if you get me?
Good point about offset. I’ll change maybe rear first see how it feels with the 160, might mess geo up too much raising front 10mm and reducing rear tho51mm is a pretty big offset for a 27.5 wheel. and it'll steer quite differently to a more standard 44-42mm 27.5 fork offset... and very noticably differently to a short 37mm offset 27.5 fork. Whatever you fit you WILL adjust to. though how well/quickly is down to the rider.
Like me, you ride enough different bikes you should adapt pretty quickly
But... if you have a shorter offset fork kicking around. I'd fit that as handling will remain more familiar.
thing most folk miss about mismatching wheelsizes/offsets, altering angles, lowering and changing shock/fork travel is that EVERYTHING affects EVERYTHING.. so you actually can't just attribute any differences you notice to just the ONE thing you changed. if you get me?
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Yes. I have a Lyrik 27.5 based demo bike.
That’s be a good shout actually! Direct fit pretty much. 65 degree head angle 331mm BB height.
Firekid
Member
I'm building a 27.5" rear wheel for my SL to run a mullet setup. Will report back with my thoughts. Running a 160mm Fox 36 up front.
Have a mullet setup on my YT Decoy and I love it.
Have a mullet setup on my YT Decoy and I love it.
jcmonty
Well-known member
I measured my BB with the 160mm fork , and it is right at 343mm. I think the offset bushing helps to lower the bb. It’s the same as a flip chip but an extra adjustment.
This one is a mates and still in development .. 180 front and rear running on 27.5's but will probably switch to a 29 on the front.
Levo SL comp Alu.
2019 Kenevo wheels, fork, cassette.
2020 Kenevo Linkage arm
2019 Levo Shock link
Öhlins is a custom 216/65
Levo SL comp Alu.
2019 Kenevo wheels, fork, cassette.
2020 Kenevo Linkage arm
2019 Levo Shock link
Öhlins is a custom 216/65
I’m going to guess this is built from another bike (I know, it’s not a huge leap
). I have a similar plan brewing. I mean, it’ll be next year now as I’m likely confined to the house for 6-12 months but it’s nice to see the builds coming.Intresting, those mods are pretty extreme, what's the BB height and Reach now?
BB height is 330 , so a 25mm drop (with the 27.5's) I think reach was the same/similar to standard, but I'll check.
Weight is 20.6kg with the 27.5's and 20.8kg with a 29 on the front.
As a DH bike, it's much nicer than the 150, yet still rides pretty much like the stock bike and is still nimble and playful. Compared to a Kenevo it doesn't carry speed in the same way, either because of the reduced weight or the geo. 1 degree compared to a 2019 Kenevo and 2 degrees compared to a 2020 Kenevo. So as with all these things, it's another compromise.
The pics from a few weeks back as part of a bored lockdown project. I think it's spent more time as a Mullet since.
I’m going to guess this is built from another bike (I know, it’s not a huge leap
The owner is a bit of a Spesh fan and amongst other things has 2020 Levo's, 2019 Kenevo, 2020 Kenevo, with lots of spare bits !
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@Rob Hancill Switching both wheels to 27.5 won't change the bike's geometry other than lowering BB height. It will change the steering slightly. (reduced trail). and smaller wheels will change the bikes overall handling quite noticeably. and it'll be entirely down to personal preference which handling traits you prefer.
Swapping just the rear to 27.5 mulletting the bike will lower the BB AND slacken the bike's head angle AND seat angle by around a degree. and will also reduce reach slightly.
Simply adjusting saddle position forwards by 5mm or so would rectify the pedalling position but bring your (seated) position closer to the bars.
increasing fork travel by 10mm will slacken the whole bike by around half a degree. See the paragraph above for how that affects the rest of the bike. (and slackening the HA increases trail)
a lower BB increases stability and to some extent cornering ability without reducing nimbleness as much as lengthening a bike to increase stability would. the downside of gaining stability through the lower BB height is (pedal/chainring/BB/motor) clearance.
You don't really need to understand all of this to try it and you don't need to know any of this at all to swap wheelsizes and suspension travel to have a go and see what you think. But if you're doing it as an experiment and want to put it out there (as a Video or article) I think you're best to have a good understanding of the principles of what you are doing too.
I'd run a Levo SL with 27.5 AND an increase in fork travel in a heart beat BTW. But my riding style and preference for an FS bike always errs towards a low BB and slack HA and by todays standards, shorter reach.
You, being taller, and from what I know liking modern Looooong roomy, large wheel bikes definitely do not have the same riding style or preferences I do.
Swapping just the rear to 27.5 mulletting the bike will lower the BB AND slacken the bike's head angle AND seat angle by around a degree. and will also reduce reach slightly.
Simply adjusting saddle position forwards by 5mm or so would rectify the pedalling position but bring your (seated) position closer to the bars.
increasing fork travel by 10mm will slacken the whole bike by around half a degree. See the paragraph above for how that affects the rest of the bike. (and slackening the HA increases trail)
a lower BB increases stability and to some extent cornering ability without reducing nimbleness as much as lengthening a bike to increase stability would. the downside of gaining stability through the lower BB height is (pedal/chainring/BB/motor) clearance.
You don't really need to understand all of this to try it and you don't need to know any of this at all to swap wheelsizes and suspension travel to have a go and see what you think. But if you're doing it as an experiment and want to put it out there (as a Video or article) I think you're best to have a good understanding of the principles of what you are doing too.
I'd run a Levo SL with 27.5 AND an increase in fork travel in a heart beat BTW. But my riding style and preference for an FS bike always errs towards a low BB and slack HA and by todays standards, shorter reach.
You, being taller, and from what I know liking modern Looooong roomy, large wheel bikes definitely do not have the same riding style or preferences I do.
similar BB height to a stock ESommet. (although the Vitus will ride lower and bottom out lower due it it being 165/170mm travel)
That BB height is not massively low in the grand scheme of things, but would be considered fairly low for most Eebs.
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