Strive:ON problems

[Tieff]

Battery disconnection update

After having installed the new latch, and all errors erased from the bike and the upper support checked by the LBS, I thought all problems were solved...
but no!

Battery has already disconecting itself, so before contacting Canyon (again...), I figured I would check the issue better myself.

#1 Canyon is not the first to suffer this problem. If you check Trek Forum, you'll find that the Rail model suffer of similar problem - battery disconnecting itself.
There are several issues, and althought people have alignement procedures written down, it seems several bikes continue with the problem.

#2 - Either Trek Rail, or Canyon Strive :ON don't use Bosch Rail system, and The battery is secured by a lower and upper support, having the plug incorporated. This seems to be the problem
Securing the battery, should be independent from connecting the battery.

#3 - Mondraker, have moved away from removal battery, much probable due to these issues.

After reading this post again, I thought about immobilizing the battery sideways (it had always a side movement, at least mine...).
Results: Nothing happened! Problem is solved, as well as the constant rattling I would ear on rought trails!
As soon as the side supports are removed, the problem comes back.

So, before start jumping of joy, I will continue experimenting this solution, until I'm sure it has been solved.

I will report back soon after I'm satisfied, but basically it's a very simple solution, not requiring zipties, not bolts, what so ever.
It permits remove the battery, and install, and it takes around 30sec, to place the solution to stop side to.side movement...

Since I didn't had this problem from new, and only appeared after several rides (+1000km), it seems I need to take a close look at the connector.

Anyone has the dimensions /tolerances on this connector?

Can you please tell us how you secured the battery from moving sideways? If several people try this and it works, there is even more certainty that the solution will help.

 

[Mario Antony]

Can you please tell us how you secured the battery from moving sideways? If several people try this and it works, there is even more certainty that the solution will help.

@Tieff

I prefer to test it, and check it really solved the issue, before disclosing the solution, and prefer to explain why:
I had over 1000km problem free, meaning without any power cutouts.
Then, the bike became having further rattle until cutouts appear (and when it happen, I couldn't maintain the battery connected and was very far from anything, and alone. Not good at all....).
I entered a warranty clame, and Canyon forward a latch, and a friend's shop, who is a Bosch repair center, cleared all errors.
Because I didn't want any cutouts again, I tried the Ziptie mod, as well as a variation of Tobias mod.
Things were ok, until one day.... power cutouts again, but intermitent.
My friend (bosch dealer), asked me to perform a simple solution, otherwise it would need further troobleshooting - replace the Mini Controller battery CR1620.
Problem solved!

[[YES, There are people that say this is not a solution, because the bike can work without the minicontroller] - never tried to ride without the minicontroller, and thing is... after replacing the CR1620, things started working ok!]].

After some rides, without any issue, cutouts again.
Bike wouldn't turn on.
[[Side note: the ridiculous thing was figuring this, after a car drive of over 200km, to ride some different trails!!!! A day lost, for nothing.... almost! At least I had a nice lunch with nice wine and everything!]]

Warranty clame again, and this time, Canyon want me to drop the bike over a Bikeshop they designated.
The new latch design would be installed, and I asked to check the upper connecter while the bike was there.

Bike arrived from the warranty clame, and on the first rides was ok, but on one particular crash (climbing a steep and torturous trail), the bike disconnected and wouldn't turn on! My only thought was really: "F......... this!!!!!!"

I place the bike on a wheelie position, and raised the rear wheel, smashing it to the ground.
Problem solved... but the mystery was still unsolved!

So.... it lead to a full troubleshooting before any ride!
[[I work with airplanes, so.... an ebikewain't so complex, and it wouldn't beat me! No f..... way!]]

What I found:

Upper Connector completly lose on the support that attatchs to the frame (which is stainless steel by the way).
A wire that was a bit damage (bent and dented). Took care of this, and move on!
The connectors (proctruded steel parts), full of deposits. ---> cleaned properly.
Check that the protective cap, that goes in this upper bracket don't fit snugged, so I solved it. No more moving things on this side, so, no more noise (I hope!)

Everything was then assembled, using threadlocker, and that is it!
This was done!

After assembly the battery, I could notice some side to side movement, so I figured out a Prototype.
Thing has been steeler, up to this point! It has also quieten the bike, and the rattling noise is reduced by a long shot, and mainly from the motor (at least it seems like it).
So.......

I'll be testing until I'm convinced that the issue is gone with this simple solution!
As soon as the last interaction is ready (or at least as endured my usage), I'll 3D print the final model, with all the fine tunes that I think it needs, and post here.

If this, doesn't cut the mostard, I'm working on an ultimate solution, but unfortunately it won't have the practicabilty of the original - meaning removing battery with a latch!

Now.... let's put some HARD kilometers on the Strive and check everything!
Fingers crossed!


[[Edit/Add: the battery doesn't connect to the plug firmly, I'd say it's a lose connection, that is maintain using the latch.
I was hoping that the interface Plug/Battery had some kind of interferance, as we (at least in Europe!), have on any electric plug at home. You need to force the plug to connect something...
This interface it's not the case with Bosch]]

 

[Tieff]

@Tieff

I prefer to test it, and check it really solved the issue, before disclosing the solution, and prefer to explain why:
I had over 1000km problem free, meaning without any power cutouts.
Then, the bike became having further rattle until cutouts appear (and when it happen, I couldn't maintain the battery connected and was very far from anything, and alone. Not good at all....).
I entered a warranty clame, and Canyon forward a latch, and a friend's shop, who is a Bosch repair center, cleared all errors.
Because I didn't want any cutouts again, I tried the Ziptie mod, as well as a variation of Tobias mod.
Things were ok, until one day.... power cutouts again, but intermitent.
My friend (bosch dealer), asked me to perform a simple solution, otherwise it would need further troobleshooting - replace the Mini Controller battery CR1620.
Problem solved!

[[YES, There are people that say this is not a solution, because the bike can work without the minicontroller] - never tried to ride without the minicontroller, and thing is... after replacing the CR1620, things started working ok!]].

After some rides, without any issue, cutouts again.
Bike wouldn't turn on.
[[Side note: the ridiculous thing was figuring this, after a car drive of over 200km, to ride some different trails!!!! A day lost, for nothing.... almost! At least I had a nice lunch with nice wine and everything!]]

Warranty clame again, and this time, Canyon want me to drop the bike over a Bikeshop they designated.
The new latch design would be installed, and I asked to check the upper connecter while the bike was there.

Bike arrived from the warranty clame, and on the first rides was ok, but on one particular crash (climbing a steep and torturous trail), the bike disconnected and wouldn't turn on! My only thought was really: "F......... this!!!!!!"

I place the bike on a wheelie position, and raised the rear wheel, smashing it to the ground.
Problem solved... but the mystery was still unsolved!

So.... it lead to a full troubleshooting before any ride!
[[I work with airplanes, so.... an ebikewain't so complex, and it wouldn't beat me! No f..... way!]]

What I found:

Upper Connector completly lose on the support that attatchs to the frame (which is stainless steel by the way).
A wire that was a bit damage (bent and dented). Took care of this, and move on!
The connectors (proctruded steel parts), full of deposits. ---> cleaned properly.
Check that the protective cap, that goes in this upper bracket don't fit snugged, so I solved it. No more moving things on this side, so, no more noise (I hope!)

Everything was then assembled, using threadlocker, and that is it!
This was done!

After assembly the battery, I could notice some side to side movement, so I figured out a Prototype.
Thing has been steeler, up to this point! It has also quieten the bike, and the rattling noise is reduced by a long shot, and mainly from the motor (at least it seems like it).
So.......

I'll be testing until I'm convinced that the issue is gone with this simple solution!
As soon as the last interaction is ready (or at least as endured my usage), I'll 3D print the final model, with all the fine tunes that I think it needs, and post here.

If this, doesn't cut the mostard, I'm working on an ultimate solution, but unfortunately it won't have the practicabilty of the original - meaning removing battery with a latch!

Now.... let's put some HARD kilometers on the Strive and check everything!
Fingers crossed!


[[Edit/Add: the battery doesn't connect to the plug firmly, I'd say it's a lose connection, that is maintain using the latch.
I was hoping that the interface Plug/Battery had some kind of interferance, as we (at least in Europe!), have on any electric plug at home. You need to force the plug to connect something...
This interface it's not the case with Bosch]]

OK thanks. That was a very long and detailed explanation and I am grateful for it. After all that, I can understand that you don't want to describe the solution yet because there is of course the risk that it won't really solve the problem permanently. I also thought of a solution to restrict the lateral movement of the battery (even though my battery doesn't move sideways at all): simply insert a bicycle hose with a valve to the right and left of the battery or attach it to the battery and after inserting the battery Inflate the hose with the pump. This is good and easy.
But, as many have already said here, I think the problem is simply that the battery is only held by the connector at the top and the latch at the bottom. If they (Canyon) would have used the original Bosch Rail, firstly the lateral movement would be eliminated and secondly the weight of the battery would be absorbed via the rail. If you look at the whole thing from an engineering perspective, then what is there now is a terrible design error and all attempts to change that end in more or less good "tinkering".
The only solution I see: put in the Bosch rail and clamp (screw) the battery to the rail. But unfortunately this also requires more stable screws for the rail, which then have to be attached to the carbon. Not really ideal if you have to do something like that retroactively...

 

[Lazy Clydesdale]

I am going to have to try this pre-emptively with some dense foam tucked along the battery sides. Thanks for the awareness

 

[Tieff]

I am going to have to try this pre-emptively with some dense foam tucked along the battery sides. Thanks for the awareness

I tried something like that too. Please be careful. If the foam is stuck tightly (so that the battery can no longer move), then it will be very, very difficult to get the foam or the battery or both out again!

 

[Mario Antony]

I would prefer to place some Foam Tape (eg: )


It's not the solution I'm testing BTW, but it's a solution and easy to install!

PS: after all the bolts and bracket correctly tight, I can say that the solution has made the bike more silent, and after 100km, and over 4500m, no cutouts!! It looks promissing

 

[Bomble]

I had a similar problem with a Trek Rail, I used 3m adhesive foam pads and just kept adding them till the battery stopped rattling.

 

[Mario Antony]

Good news:
No powercuts after this part of the trail...
Tests will continue!
Is a pass/break (me or the bike) result!

 

[Tieff]

Good news:
No powercuts after this part of the trail...
Tests will continue!
Is a pass/break (me or the bike) result!

View attachment 139927

So let's hope that both of you will pass the tests!

 

[Tubby G]

 

[hubertsk]

Buy direct from Miranda, I have both 155 and 152,5 and like them

Hey @Niklas which model and what Q-factor did you order from Miranda?
How do they fit the bike?

 

[Niklas]

Hey @Niklas which model and what Q-factor did you order from Miranda?
How do they fit the bike?

 

[Tubby G]

Just a heads up guys. My Strive:On is now ready to collect from the Canyon Service Partner Bike Shop and is fully working again. However, the issue wasn’t with the battery latch as expected. There’s another issue which Canyon are apparently aware of and are looking at ways to remedy. The top battery connection inside the downtube is susceptible to condensation & moisture, and if it collects in the battery terminal it has nowhere to drain out, therefore corroding the terminals and causing issues.

To prevent this from happening it is recommended to apply dielectric grease to the battery terminals and keep checking for the smallest sign of any corrosion every few weeks.