Wobbly cassette

[Snoozeboy]

I'd noticed an intermittent knocking sound from the back wheel for a while. When it recently got worse I decided I wasn't imagining it and found there was a few mm of lateral play in my cassette (when measured at the 46t sprocket).

I removed the wheel and tightened the lock ring, but there was still the same play. I removed the cassette and cleaned and inspected the spline (steel) and found no damage apart from some very light marks. Reassembled and tightened the lock ring, but still the same play.

Any idea what's knackered? The cassette, the spline or a compressed spacer perhaps. The cassette is getting to the end of its life, 3,600km and is on its 4th chain, shows signs of wear but hasn't yet skipped.

Also, is there any harm in riding it until I can order a new cassette (if it is the cassette) or wait until the lbs reopens (could be a month)?

 

[paul-g]

if you don`t use the 46 a lot shim between the 46 and what ever is lower with
shims made from a tin can and then re set your derauler back setting as not
to engage the 46
or if you don`t use the other end do it there
it`ll keep you going till lbs opens
other thing is you havn`t said what cassette you`re using and what freehub

 

[Snoozeboy]

Cassette: Shimano SLX CS-M7000, 11-46T
Rear hub: Shimano Deore FH-M6010-B, 12mm, Boost, Centerlock

Edit: I said the cassette was on the 4th chain, having changed the previous 3 at 0.75 stretch. However, since posting I only just put the 4th chain on there and it skipped like crazy.

As it needs the cassette changed anyway, I'll try that out and if it still wobbles, then it's lbs. Until then I'll go with the wobbly cassette and the 3rd chain. I've just been out for a ride and despite some play in the cassette, the knocking seems to have abated.

Thanks for your help.

 

[paul-g]

Cassette: Shimano SLX CS-M7000, 11-46T
Rear hub: Shimano Deore FH-M6010-B, 12mm, Boost, Centerlock

was the cassette tight with no play when fitted new?
was there a spacer or shim between the freehub and back of 46?

 

[Snoozeboy]

was the cassette tight with no play when fitted new?
was there a spacer or shim between the freehub and back of 46?

I don't know the answer to the first question. When new I just rode it and cleaned it til something broke.

When I lifted off the cassette, I didn't look at it too closely as I was very careful to keep it all together and not drop any bits.

Anyway, I just ordered a new cassette as the old one won't take a new chain. When the new cassette comes I'll check if there's a spacer. If there's no spacer with the new cassette, then I guess I have to go to the lbs anyway to get one.

 

[paul-g]

Cassette: Shimano SLX CS-M7000, 11-46T
Rear hub: Shimano Deore FH-M6010-B, 12mm, Boost, Centerlock

Edit: I said the cassette was on the 4th chain, having changed the previous 3 at 0.75 stretch. However, since posting I only just put the 4th chain on there and it skipped like crazy.

As it needs the cassette changed anyway, I'll try that out and if it still wobbles, then it's lbs. Until then I'll go with the wobbly cassette and the 3rd chain. I've just been out for a ride and despite some play in the cassette, the knocking seems to have abated.

Thanks for your help.

maybe try a spacer or a thin shim behind the 46 to increase the overall thickness
of the cassette and reset the derauler stops.this might be your best bet
some cassetts have a spacer

 

[Russell]

I expect the bearings have gone on the hub. If it is Shimano I would just buy a new rear wheel. If you get a new wheel get something other than Shimano because if the bearings go again you can replace the cartridge bearings/ball race a lot easier.

 

[paul-g]

wouldn`t buy one for a gold pig

 

[Snoozeboy]

wouldn`t buy one for a gold pig

Another Shimano hub?

I dont think it's the hub bearings, because the knock only happens when the cassette is under pressure and there's play in the cassette, not the back wheel. Am I wrong?

 

[paul-g]

could be a number of things you`re just going from one thing to another
best thing for you to do, same as I did buy some tools strip everything
down and re build it, at least you will know how it works. last bit of advise could be the freehub slipping

 

[Russell]

Indeed, remove the cassette and see if there is play in the freehub body thing. I'm not sure on the name of it.

 

[Snoozeboy]

Update, I cranked the lock ring up quite a long way, possibly further than the recommended (I think it was 40Nm) and maybe to the point of stripping it.

There still seems to be some play in the cassette, but the knocking has stopped for now.