Answered Used chain checker. What now?

[Beekeeper]

My park tools CC 3.2 chain checker just arrived. I have 11 speed KMC. Done 1000 miles

the 0.75 does not quite go in but the 0.50 goes in very easily.

How bad is this? do I need to replace my chain? Do I need to also replace my cassette and front sprocket?

I don’t appear to be having any issues with changing gears at all. All seems to be working well. Any advice?

 

[Careyj1]

You are getting close to changing only the chain. Some people replace the chain at .50 but I think that is a little too soon. .75 to .65 I would replace, I would order the new chain and replace once it arrives. 1000 miles on an ebike chain is good.

 

[OldGoatMTB]

I would replace at .50 to minimize wear on the rest of the drivetrain.

 

[BigLee]

I'd change it as well ??

 

[Varaxis]

SRAM manual: "Replace your chain before 0.8% elongation to maintain performance and limit wear to the cassette and chainring"

KMC seems to say the same. When to Replace a Chain?- Learn- KMC

 

[steve_sordy]

I have done almost 1600 miles on the the original gear and I'm well chuffed with that. The chain is showing less than 0.5% (measuring 100 links with a metal tape measure), but most of the cassette teeth have burrs on the sides. The front ring looks mint, apart from some scuffing. I've already got my spare chain and cassette, but I think I'll leave it a bit longer before fitting them. The existing kit doesn't owe me anything.

 

[Fingerpuk]

Double and triple check. I’ve found the Park Tool checker can say the chain is anything from perfect to wrecked depending upon how you hold the back end of it.

If it’s still going in easy, new chain. Gives you an excuse to buy more tools.

My wife is still wondering why I needed an electric chainsaw.

 

[steve_sordy]

If you are in any doubt about what the chain checker is telling you, remove the chain and measure it with a metal tape measure. Stretch the chain out on a flat surface and measure 100 links from pin to pin. That will be 50" on a new chain, 50-1/2" on a scrap chain (1%) and 50-3/8" on one at 0.75%. Therefore 50-1/4" on a 0.5% stretch and so forth.

For improved accuracy, don't use the hooked end of the tape, use one of the larger markers instead and do some sums. It also makes it easier if you can persuade someone to hold the idiot end steady over a marker, while you do the clever bit.

 

[crazyethnic]

most chains start with .50 or they won't work ,I generally give them the flick between .75 to 100 I clean and lube once a week or if its a real dirty ride after each ride.

 

[salko]

If you measure new chain with a ruller pin-to-pin it should be almost exactly 0% wear, if you measure with (conservative) chain checker it could show 0,5%.

 

[James_C]

I just replaced mine at 0.6, after 2 chain breaks/shortenings. But the cassette now skipped in 9th gear. Had to replace that too.

I think I'll get another chain and swap between them every couple of weeks this time.

 

[Pyr0]

I recently did the same.
I swapped my chain as it was at 0.5, but now I'm finding I'm occasionally slipping in the smallest cassette cogs.
New XG-1175 and another new chain ordered today...

 

[James_C]

I've also ordered a 36T front ring to keep me out of those smaller gears...

 

[Beekeeper]

At 0.75 I replaced chain with identical KMC x11. 1000 miles done. All working well before the change but the 0.75 tempted me to replace

Bike was then totally unridable because of clattering and dangerous chain suck from the Small Bosch T15 front sprocket.

Flipped the sprocket over to the reverse side and all is well. Cassette of 1000 miles working fine with new chain. No skipping in any gear.