Levo Gen 2 Turbo Levo 2020 Shock Mount screw

[Lasse]

Shock mount screw deformed against the edge of the free-hole behind the screw head?
The "flange" moves outward (blue arrow) when rotating screw ccw to loosen it.
Anyone else experienced this?
Update: The shock is free to move sideways when the flange moves outward and create more space, i.e. it's not the shock that follows the screw and push the "flange"..

 

[GDAS]

that sounds as though the shock bushing has seized onto the bolt and is therefore moving in the same direction as the bolt head, as you unscrew it, thus the flange is moving. Maybe lay the bike on its side (or upside down?) and spray some penetrating oil where the bolt goes into the bushing.

 

[Lasse]

that sounds as though the shock bushing has seized onto the bolt and is therefore moving in the same direction as the bolt head, as you unscrew it, thus the flange is moving. Maybe lay the bike on its side (or upside down?) and spray some penetrating oil where the bolt goes into the bushing.

The shock bushing is free to move (being pushed) sideways when the flange moves outward and create more space, i.e. the shock bushing and screw are free to move independently to each other...

 

[Mikerb]

so what is your problem? The top shock mount hardly moves during shock compression. The screw is the axle and the bushing is free to rotate slightly on the screw. I assume the bushing is just the plastic 3 part push in by hand type. It will be held by the compression of the flange towards the threaded part of the frame on the other side of the shock bushing. Provided neither the shank of the bolt or the central part of the bushing is worn you have no problem. Secure the screw with loctite to the correct torque ( c 10nm)

 

[Lasse]

so what is your problem? The top shock mount hardly moves during shock compression. The screw is the axle and the bushing is free to rotate slightly on the screw. I assume the bushing is just the plastic 3 part push in by hand type. It will be held by the compression of the flange towards the threaded part of the frame on the other side of the shock bushing. Provided neither the shank of the bolt or the central part of the bushing is worn you have no problem. Secure the screw with loctite to the correct torque ( c 10nm)

The problem is that the screw can't be removed without forcing the outer frame flange outward (see blue arrow in picture)

 

[Mikerb]

you mean the screw is seized in the flange?? If so you need to feed some wd40 or similar in there and leave it to soak for a few hours. Make sure the allen key you use to try to move it is high quality and a good fit. Using a socket based allen tapping the socket should help to break down what is possibly corrosion between the head of the screw and the flange. also tapping the flange with a rubber headed mallet may help to do the same.

 

[GDAS]

if the bolt were seized in the flange, then presumably it wouldn't turn. But since it's turning anti-clockwise and the flange is moving outwards with the bolt head, I'm wondering if some sort of groove has been created in the bolt such that it's catching on the edge of the hole. Seems very unusual. Once you've unscrewed the bolt as much as you can or dare, is there any side to side movement of the bolt in the hole, when you grab the shock and try to move it?

 

[Mikerb]

if the bolt were seized in the flange, then presumably it wouldn't turn. But since it's turning anti-clockwise and the flange is moving outwards with the bolt head, I'm wondering if some sort of groove has been created in the bolt such that it's catching on the edge of the hole. Seems very unusual. Once you've unscrewed the bolt as much as you can or dare, is there any side to side movement of the bolt in the hole, when you grab the shock and try to move it?

ah..I have finally grasped what your issue is.........sorry I did not understand initially.
Is this an ally frame? Is the bolt the original ally bolt?

I doubt the screw head has created a ridge preventing it from coming away from the flange but there could be a layer of solidified corrosion or just dirt.....effectively doing the same thing. Its also possible someone was over generous with the loctite when it was last secured and the locktite got on to the surface the screw head sits on. Its possible the bolt has been replaced with a steel bolt? If so corrosion is most probably the cause and a weak acid like Vinegar may help to dissolve the corrosion ( white vinegar better than malt vinegar). Regardless it will do no harm.

A couple of things you could try:-

1. Make up some form of clamp across the flange and the threaded section of the frame to stop the flange flaring outward. I know it will be awkward to do that whilst still leaving access to the screw hex but may be possible. Then try unscrewing the screw.
or.........
2. Unscrew the screw as much as you dare such that there is some free space across the shock mount and then use a socket with some cloth under it to protect the flange paintwork and tap the socket to push the flange back to its normal resting position. If you do this with the smallest possible gap and then find you have re-closed the gap, rotate the screw another quarter turn and repeat.

 

[Lasse]

Thanks for reply. The screw is original. I have tried both of the options above, together with a bike mechanic. Have not tried vinegar though
If that does not work, we're considering drilling it

 

[Grannyjones]

I need some help with this screw. It's the exact screw in the diagram of the original post.

I've rounded it off to the extent that it's only a matter of time until I won't ever be able to unscrew it again.

What type of screw is this, where can I get a replacement ?

 

[Grannyjones]

View attachment 80768

The screw in the diagram, where can I get a replacement ?
Or what do I need to look for

 

[GDAS]

I don't think you can buy that bolt alone, you have to buy the rear shock fitting kit, Spesh part number S184200068. I bought one recently from Berkshire Bikes (you have to ring them to order) for £13 plus postage, or you might find some online such as this Specialized SUB MY19 Stumpjumper FSR J1 Rear Shock Hardware Kit

 

[Grannyjones]

Ah damn, it's such a shame that I would have to pay £15 to get this Bolt. It really does not appear to be available anywhere else. I really think it's not a standard bolt I could get from a fastner store.