What size tyres?
20psi is a good place to start. Check pressures every couple of days and raise or lower a bit at a time to find your sweet spot. Carry a Stans Dart or similar larger puncture sealing device. Check sealant levels every couple of months (depending on climate).
Your tyres should not be "hard". The LBS probably left a high pressure to help seal the sidewalls. Drop your pressure to what feels right for you, where you ride. This link will be helpful:
Read this on how to find your tyre pressure sweet spot. Written a while ago by PinkBike as part of their Tech Tuesday series. It was for analogue bikes, but every bit as valid now as it was then.
Like Steve said they definitely over inflate to seal. Mine where at 40 psi after having some spokes repaired and they redid the sealant.
Just riding the same trails constantly, varying your pressures you'll find a sweet spot. As for maintenance they say top up the sealant every so many months but I never have as I usually chew through a tyre well before the sealant dries up. I just check my pressures every couple of days as I lose 1-2 psi per week.
They probably just forgot to let the air down after the initial bedding.
Tube or tubeless, when brand new tyres are installed, it pays to inflate them hard as a oncer (within the max limit) and leave them that way for a little while. This gives the new tyre a chance to stretch and settle into it's normal operational shape. Otherwise it will keep dropping its pressure for a while until it does settle. And, to possibly test for sealant leaks.
Off topic I know, but while we're on the subject of stretching...
This is the same equivalent to some shops 'pre-stretching' new replacement derailleur cables before installation. Otherwise, shifting would keep going off for a while until the cable does settle to its final tensioned length. If you've got a brand new bike and shifting starts missing after a while, just turn the cable adjuster knob (where the cable enters the trigger) a couple of clicks counter-clockwise and this will compensate for the stretched inner steel cable.
Another thing to keep an eye out for with brand new bikes - pertaining more to the rear wheel than the front. After a reasonable break-in period, stand well behind your bike and eye-ball your tyre in relation to the Seat Tube or the Swingarm Drop-outs. You will likely notice that your tyre has ended up closer to the left side of the bike centreline where it was, or should be. The reason for this is because of uneven spoke stretch - peculiar to the way a rear wheel is laced with an offset (the spokes on the left side of the hub are longer than the spokes on the right side). Those shorter spokes on the right also bears the full brunt of drive torque coming from the chain driven cassette. When they stretch (elongate ever so slightly), the rim alignment moves to the left and takes the tyre along with it. You can correct this easily without having to take anything off the bike. With a spoke wrench, tighten ONLY the right side spoke nipples by a quarter turn. Start from the air valve and go around full circle so you don't lose count and miss or double up on a nipple. You should see the tyre move back to the centreline immediately but leave it that way for now and check again after a few rides. Let the rear wheel spokes have a committee meeting first to figure out what just happened, haha. Then check it again and re-adjust if more tension needed.
This would be included in amongst what an LBS would/should do - for that FREE first check-up when they ask you to bring back your brand new bike after a month or so. But seeing as many of us are buying new bikes on-line and are still on lockdown for a while yet, I thought I'd share this seeing as your LBS may not be open - or may refuse to service bikes purchased over the internet.