Does Stans sealant have bits in it?
I assume your LBS removed the tubes and added sealant...hence why the valve fell in when you removed the lock nut!! Your problem was probably the tubeless valve not properly sealed which is usually fixed merely by tightening the lock nut a little.I've just had my first experience of a loss of tubeless pressure.
Bought the bike 2nd hand from lbs who'd supplied it new to original owner.
Asked them if it was tubeless, they assured me it was tubeless ready but had tubes. I was happy with this as I know how to handle tubes ( 50 years experience - no idea of tubeless) . Asked them to Slime it ready for me to collect the following day. They assured me they had when I collected it.
Had the bike about 3 weeks, getting out on it once a week.
Last week noticed loss of pressure in front tyre. Inflated, went for ride, all fine.
This week, preparing to go out, noticed similar loss of pressure. Checked tread for thorns etc, nothing. Checked valve locking nut, got a hissing from the base of it and clear liquid shooting out. Twisted until stopped but slight hissing as i moved valve. Thought valve torn from tube so decided to change tube. Undid locking nut, touched valve which promptly dropped into the tyre!!!
Tyre glued to rim - suspect it is tubeless after all - having a wtf?? moment.
LBS having wheel in to sort out this afternoon. I want tube and slime, although the tannus solution looks favourable.
Now, about the back wheel ??
So how do you get Stans through the valve? Why don't the bits seal the hole?
Putting Stans throught the valve ( with the valve core removed) is no problem. I seat the tyre and then inflate to c 35psi and bounce it on the floor to ensure the bead is fully seated, then deflate the tyre and remove the valve core.........then inject the sealant through the valve using a stans syringe. Then rotate the wheel to distribute the sealant and lay the wheel flat on a bucket for a bout 10 minutes a side. Never had a problem doing it that way............and never had a puncture that did not self seal. I use 100ml of sealant for a 2.5/29 tyre, 80ml for a 27.5/2.5 tyre and top up with 30 ml every 3 or 4 months. I change the valve cores about twice a year when they start getting sticky.@RustyIron Thanks for the confirmation.
To everyone else: This may seem like teaching granma to suck eggs, but give the sealant bottle a very good shake before pouring it into the tyre, to make sure that you don't leave all the bits at the bottom of the bottle. I always used to pour the sealant into the tyre before completing installation, or just unhooked 6" of bead if topping up. I "just knew" that I would never get the sealant (with bits) down through the Presta valve hole. I don't use Stans, but of course many do and seem to get by with using the valve hole to install it (valve core removed of course). This always puzzled me.
My experience with other sealants said that they would never go via the valve, unless the bottle was not shaken. So, my working theory was that Stans didn't have bits in it. But now I know it does!
So how do you get Stans through the valve? Why don't the bits seal the hole? It's much smaller than the holes you get in a tyre and it seals those OK.
NO - took a reality break, bless 'em.I assume your LBS removed the tubes and added sealant...hence why the valve fell in when you removed the lock nut!! Your problem was probably the tubeless valve not properly sealed which is usually fixed merely by tightening the lock nut a little.
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