STRIVE :ON POWER CUTOUTS

[Mario Antony]

When new, the Strive :ON don't present any problem on the battery connection. The bike normally works flawlessly and some owners will concluded that the power surge problem is just on some bikes.

As rides accumulate, depending on the trails, and usage, the power cuts can start earlier or latter, but it'll occur.

This post is to help solving the problem it's aflicting the Battery Connection on Strive :ON

So, if your bike is suffering:
- Power cutout
- Not turning on (with the led doing the up/down thing, but turning off)
- Orange light turning on

You should 1st, check battery connectivity using Flow App (check image bellow).

To solve the issue, you need to check 2 places:
#1- LATCH --> canyon has acknowledge this, and has released a new latch
#2- Upper Bracket

If you decide to continue ridding, ignoring this, next time the mode led goes orange, check flow app/components, and if battery status is not green, than it's disconnected.

The bolts that go throught the frame to connect the bracket to the frame normally are tight.
But you need to remove the bracket to check all bolts in it.

To check yours, you'll need the following:

- not too thick arms (you need to stick one on the downtube!)
- remove the lower closing bracket (where the latch closes, and has the 2 proctrutions to assemble the bash guard).
- connect the cables on one side, so that when assembly you don't mess things down (can be ziptie/electric tape/what ever)
- remove both aluminium stripes, that hold the cables (it might be tight... but take your time).
- remove the torxk skrews beneath the downtube and near the headtube.
- remove the all bracket assembly.
- remove the outer cover that "protects the electrical wiring on both plugs

INSPECTION

Check all wires for nicks or chanfing.
Remove all bolts from the bracket, and inspect everything.
Check the plug pins, for any debried or deposits

CLEANING:
Clean everything, making sure that the plug pins are shinny

ASSEMBLY:
Start by assembly the wire cover.
Apply threalock on all bolts, and tigthen everything.
[[SPECIAL NOTE:
The bracket can be adjusted on the stainless support.
Align everything... and make sure it seats in a position that makes it tighter to the battery.]]
Once all is done, place the upper bracket.
Adjust the cables and assemble the wire covers, but don't squeeze all down.
Assemble the bracket inside the downtube, and bolt it to the downtube. Don't forget to place washers!
[[Note: secure and move around the bracket inside the downtube, until you found it's place with the outside bolts.]]

Once all done... just make sure the cables are correctly alligned, and squeeze the covers in.

Assembly the lower support, tighten correctly.

Assemble the battery, check for connection, DONE!

If your bike hasn't got the new latch, ask Canyon and apply for warranty case for the latch.

In the picture bellow, you can check the deposits on the plug pins

Final step: Go to a Bosch Dealer, and erase all errors from the bike.

 

[Tubby G]

Now then. My Strive:On died this weekend in North Wales. I've had the replacement latch from Canyon back in December last year, fitted it myself and all has been absolutely fine, until now. The bike is booked in at a local bike shop that is a registered Canyon Service Partner so hopefully they'll be looking at the top connection bracket and replacing as required. Mario's thorough description above is perfect timing for me, I'll be showing this to the mechanic, cheers.

Here's a video of exactly when the bike died. Not a difficult trail at all, just a red graded 'trail centre' trail. Marin Trail near Betws-y-Coed. We'd been to Antur Stiniog the day before which is far chunkier and had no issues (except two flats but that's a whole other story!)

 

[Mario Antony]

Now then. My Strive:On died this weekend in North Wales. I've had the replacement latch from Canyon back in December last year, fitted it myself and all has been absolutely fine, until now. The bike is booked in at a local bike shop that is a registered Canyon Service Partner so hopefully they'll be looking at the top connection bracket and replacing as required. Mario's thorough description above is perfect timing for me, I'll be showing this to the mechanic, cheers.

Here's a video of exactly when the bike died. Not a difficult trail at all, just a red graded 'trail centre' trail. Marin Trail near Betws-y-Coed. We'd been to Antur Stiniog the day before which is far chunkier and had no issues (except two flats but that's a whole other story!)

Yes, show it.
The removal of the bracket is a real PITA, and anyone with strong forearms, will have to use a/the tool.
When I did mine, I didn't took too many pictures, but I'll try to make a picture/drawing instructions on how to proceed.

And insist on having the bracket removed.
I also asked to check my bracket with the LBS Canyon designated, and they said they did, but was all BS, because I found completed unbolted.

 

[Mr Dog]

I’m toying with the idea of buying a Strive ON. Came across a few reports relating to this cutting out issue which is a bit off-putting. With the combination or the new latch and the cleaned up and adjusted bracket, would you say the issue is remedied? Or is the new latch design still a probable flaw?

I’m over unreliable stuff after being plagued by Fox X2 issues for the past couple of years. Ultimately a shock problem can be fixed much easier than a badly integrated battery, so these reports leave me apprehensive.

 

[Mario Antony]

I’m toying with the idea of buying a Strive ON. Came across a few reports relating to this cutting out issue which is a bit off-putting. With the combination or the new latch and the cleaned up and adjusted bracket, would you say the issue is remedied? Or is the new latch design still a probable flaw?

I’m over unreliable stuff after being plagued by Fox X2 issues for the past couple of years. Ultimately a shock problem can be fixed much easier than a badly integrated battery, so these reports leave me apprehensive.

I'm on the same boat as you.
Reliability over anything... and that's the reason I prefer something proven and less shinny.

What have "we" learnt:

FACTS:
- The Strive :ON, don't show any cutouts from new, meaning 0 kms.
- The cutouts start to show upon usage.
- Depending on the trails/usage, problem can appear sooner.
- The original latch had a week point, leading to some movement upon closure
- The new latch, has reinforced pivots, and it hasn't been showing any strutural problem, as the old design
- With the new design latch, the cutout problem can persist

SOLUTION

#1 - remove the lower guide / latch closure
#2 - remove the cable strips that protect from the battery. Use tape to join the cables from one side, so that it helps you on assembly
#3 - Remove the upper battery bracket, with the cable
#4 - disassemble the upper bracket
#5 - check and evaluate everything (terminals, etc)
#6 - clean and polish the terminals so that it will be shinning
#7 - Assemble it using threadlocker
#8 - invert points 1,2,3, 4 and turn on the bike

Check threadlock instructions (cure time) before use.
This will for CERTAIN, solve the cutouts.

Just remember:
Latch works together with upper bracket.
PS: I would sugest anyone doing it, once it receives the Strive


All above, is for physical cutouts.
If after all work, there is still errors and problems, it might be an internal battery problem. Check with Bosch dealer

 

[Mr Dog]

Thanks for the info. Sounds good and gives me some confidence. As for the Bosch side of things, I’m not too concerned there. I’ve had a Bosch system for a long time in a Trek Rail. It’s high mileage now and never had any issues despite not giving it any real care and using it hard.

Sounds like the Canyon is still firmly in the mix for my next bike.

 

[robbydobs]

Mine has started cutting out more now as well. It has the new latch design. I usually leave the battery in and i don't use a jew wash or hose, mostly just leave it dirty!

Started intermittently losing power at about 700 miles ish, now it's stuttering even on smooth trails and switching off.

It's been back to canyon once already and they had it 2 months, now they want it back again. Not even 1 year old so far!

Is this a design flaw? Do the Bosch rail mount bikes do this?

I applied some carbon conductive grease to the battery terminals which worked on the last ride but who knows how long for and presumably this is wearing out the internal battery connectors which are non replaceable?

 

[robbydobs]

This is the grease I used
MG Chemicals 846-80G Carbon Conductive Grease, 80g Tube, Black https://amzn.eu/d/0e2OZseZ

It's different to dielectric grease

 

[Mario Antony]

Mine has started cutting out more now as well. It has the new latch design. I usually leave the battery in and i don't use a jew wash or hose, mostly just leave it dirty!

Started intermittently losing power at about 700 miles ish, now it's stuttering even on smooth trails and switching off.

It's been back to canyon once already and they had it 2 months, now they want it back again. Not even 1 year old so far!

Is this a design flaw? Do the Bosch rail mount bikes do this?

I applied some carbon conductive grease to the battery terminals which worked on the last ride but who knows how long for and presumably this is wearing out the internal battery connectors which are non replaceable?

Read the 1st post.
Remove, inspect and perform the threadlock mod to all bolts on the upper bracket.
While you're there, check wiring for chanfing/tear/other issues, and clean&polish everything as described.

Once this is performed, and while using the new latch, you shouldn't have more problems.

 

[fritzkurt]

When new, the Strive :ON don't present any problem on the battery connection. The bike normally works flawlessly and some owners will concluded that the power surge problem is just on some bikes.

As rides accumulate, depending on the trails, and usage, the power cuts can start earlier or latter, but it'll occur.

This post is to help solving the problem it's aflicting the Battery Connection on Strive :ON

So, if your bike is suffering:
- Power cutout
- Not turning on (with the led doing the up/down thing, but turning off)
- Orange light turning on

You should 1st, check battery connectivity using Flow App (check image bellow).

To solve the issue, you need to check 2 places:
#1- LATCH --> canyon has acknowledge this, and has released a new latch
#2- Upper Bracket

If you decide to continue ridding, ignoring this, next time the mode led goes orange, check flow app/components, and if battery status is not green, than it's disconnected.

The bolts that go throught the frame to connect the bracket to the frame normally are tight.
But you need to remove the bracket to check all bolts in it.

To check yours, you'll need the following:

- not too thick arms (you need to stick one on the downtube!)
- remove the lower closing bracket (where the latch closes, and has the 2 proctrutions to assemble the bash guard).
- connect the cables on one side, so that when assembly you don't mess things down (can be ziptie/electric tape/what ever)
- remove both aluminium stripes, that hold the cables (it might be tight... but take your time).
- remove the torxk skrews beneath the downtube and near the headtube.
- remove the all bracket assembly.
- remove the outer cover that "protects the electrical wiring on both plugs

INSPECTION

Check all wires for nicks or chanfing.
Remove all bolts from the bracket, and inspect everything.
Check the plug pins, for any debried or deposits

CLEANING:
Clean everything, making sure that the plug pins are shinny

ASSEMBLY:
Start by assembly the wire cover.
Apply threalock on all bolts, and tigthen everything.
[[SPECIAL NOTE:
The bracket can be adjusted on the stainless support.
Align everything... and make sure it seats in a position that makes it tighter to the battery.]]
Once all is done, place the upper bracket.
Adjust the cables and assemble the wire covers, but don't squeeze all down.
Assemble the bracket inside the downtube, and bolt it to the downtube. Don't forget to place washers!
[[Note: secure and move around the bracket inside the downtube, until you found it's place with the outside bolts.]]

Once all done... just make sure the cables are correctly alligned, and squeeze the covers in.

Assembly the lower support, tighten correctly.

Assemble the battery, check for connection, DONE!

If your bike hasn't got the new latch, ask Canyon and apply for warranty case for the latch.

In the picture bellow, you can check the deposits on the plug pins

Final step: Go to a Bosch Dealer, and erase all errors from the bike.

View attachment 139928 View attachment 139929

Hi Mario
Thanks for the detailed description. I just performed the steps accordingly today. I found some loose screws without loctite fixing. My contact pins look quite o.k. but after 14 month/3600km trail riding, some cutoffs occurred. I will find out on the next few tours, whether the maintenance works or not.
Whenever someone wants to replace the battery connector, here the part # from Bosch:
BCH3121 EB12100015

 

[Tieff]

For a photo-instruction about how to remove the upper battery bracket and do the @Mario Antony threadlock mod (sorry the famous threadlock mod of course) please have a look here: 2024 Strive:ON