STANCE E+ 2 2021 or EMBOLDEN are you happy with it?

[1oldfart]

Are there water issues or other problems?

 

[glovemtb77]

Bad wheel sesnor on mine most likely now. Great wide triangle (I got a 2.8" tire back there easily) .
I am going to switch to a Bosch magnet which is about 10% stronger and see how that goes. No dropper on a $4k really kinda annoying since you have to drop the motor to install one but the dealer is giving me a good price on install since it is brand new from them. Water issue this video identified and at the bottom of the battery/frame. Even though there are seals all the way down either side of the battery compartment they forgot to finish the seal at the bottom. I just gorilla taped it closed. Should not be a heat dissipation problem with the tape. Also, I took the extra cowl under the motor off to check things out and found dirt and rocks in the motor compartment so if there was water around I imagine it would get in there as well. Wiring connection for the wheel sensor is above the motor as well as the other wiring.

 

[1oldfart]

Magnet is too far away from the sensor on mine with that great wide triangle (I got a 2.8" tire back there) so position is extra finicky .
I am going to switch to a Bosch magnet which is about 10% stronger and see how that goes. No dropper on a $4k really kinda annoying since you have to drop the motor to install one but the dealer is giving me a good price on install since it is brand new from them. Water issue this video identified and at the bottom of the battery/frame. Even though there are seals all the way down either side of the battery compartment they forgot to finish the seal at the bottom. I just gorilla taped it closed. Should not be a heat dissipation problem with the tape.

Thanks for your input. When i looked at the website i was not happy reading about the 25mm rims. It was 35 last year. I love 2.8 so please let me know i will not have a problem with the thinner rims? I kind of like a fixed seat post, lighter and i am going to order that bike even if the delivery is week 50 i like the 10S for my use it is just a price i like and a bike i like. In Canada last year was 400Wh so the 500 this year is nice.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Magnet is too far away from the sensor on mine with that great wide triangle (I got a 2.8" tire back there) so position is extra finicky .
I am going to switch to a Bosch magnet which is about 10% stronger and see how that goes. No dropper on a $4k really kinda annoying since you have to drop the motor to install one but the dealer is giving me a good price on install since it is brand new from them. Water issue this video identified and at the bottom of the battery/frame. Even though there are seals all the way down either side of the battery compartment they forgot to finish the seal at the bottom. I just gorilla taped it closed. Should not be a heat dissipation problem with the tape.

Lol! That's me and my bike in the video.

 

[glovemtb77]

Lol! That's me and my bike in the video.

Love it, that was a great workup on it you guys did ! I am still having red light code flashing all the time but since it doesn't effect operation at all (and the replacement sensor is backordered), I have been riding the heck out of it. Did a test gnarly boulder trail ride to see if I can take it to the really brutal rocky mountain trails this week. Now if my legs will just report back in. ? Putting a 140mm fork on it as well as a Rockshox monarch RL vs the R this week. Did the dropper the other day.

 

[glovemtb77]

Thanks for your input. When i looked at the website i was not happy reading about the 25mm rims. It was 35 last year. I love 2.8 so please let me know i will not have a problem with the thinner rims? I kind of like a fixed seat post, lighter and i am going to order that bike even if the delivery is week 50 i like the 10S for my use it is just a price i like and a bike i like. In Canada last year was 400Wh so the 500 this year is nice.

Why the heck would they downgrade a rim on a dual ebike.....oh well, par for the course. But this year at least they are 29 instead of 275er. I believe they did that because that motor sits pretty low anyway so they got it higher that way. As well as 165mm crank arms. Yikes I gotta at least go to 170mm on the medium for my years of riding on 175's.
Yea, on the battery. I gave them heck about spec-ing a 400watt battery on my other gravel ebike with a 85nm motor and they at least sold me a new one at 200 dollars off.
hmmm, now that you mention it really kinda dumb to put a 3.00 tire on anything less than around a ~30mm i.d. rim. or greater I just wanted to get going with it quickly and need to look in my wheel collection on the wall lol. Only problem is all my wheels are thru axle boost at this home where this bike lives. Don't know why they went standard QR in the back yet were able to figure out how to get such great clearance. On the rim....I certainly would not do it on the front it would squirm all over the place. I had another boost wheel for my 3.00 in front.

Tire & Rim Fit Chart

WHAT IS IT? The WTB Tire & Rim Compatibility Chart is used to determine what tire and rim width combinations provide optimal performance and compatibility. By matching your tire section width to your rim width you can determine optimal, compatible, or not optimal fitting options to ensure the...

www.wtb.com

Here is a great source for good price wheel purchases. Of course you want a bad ass set of mtb wheels for a 55lb bike. Btw, already had the back QR come loose on my already. ? I love my 40 id. maximum edge tubeless rims I got from these guys cheap for as good as they are.

Velo Mine Bicycle Shop - We Build & Sell Bicycle Wheels & Components

Closeouts and sales on the best selection of road, mountain, gravel, touring and BMX wheels. Specializing in Campagnolo and SRAM Components and Groupsets. Full catalogue of bicycle tools. Everything for your bike building needs.

www.velomine.com

 

[1oldfart]

Love it, that was a great workup on it you guys did ! I am still having red light code flashing all the time but since it doesn't effect operation at all (and the replacement sensor is backordered), I have been riding the heck out of it. Did a test gnarly boulder trail ride to see if I can take it to the really brutal rocky mountain trails this week. Now if my legs will just report back in. ? Putting a 140mm fork on it as well as a Rockshox monarch RL vs the R this week. Did the dropper the other day.

I will be reading more about your fork. I was going to test my 2021 Stance E+2 in my trails and maybe just go from 130 to 140 when the maintenance is due. This morning i found 2 new 29x2.6 Specialized so they will replace the 2.4 Rekon from day 1. One is a groundcontrol the other is a butcher. Wich should i put in front?

 

[DaveMatthews]

Love it, that was a great workup on it you guys did ! I am still having red light code flashing all the time but since it doesn't effect operation at all (and the replacement sensor is backordered), I have been riding the heck out of it. Did a test gnarly boulder trail ride to see if I can take it to the really brutal rocky mountain trails this week. Now if my legs will just report back in. ? Putting a 140mm fork on it as well as a Rockshox monarch RL vs the R this week. Did the dropper the other day.

Nice! I was looking at the RL as I think I could use the lockout. I was also looking at the RT3, as it has a 184x48 option.

 

[glovemtb77]

Nice! I was looking at the RL as I think I could use the lockout. I was also looking at the RT3, as it has a 184x48 option.

Yea, I checked out the RT3 and the XX with the remote were $ verses getting the RL total driveout of 251.00. Cause I was not thrilled with having to reach so far down to hit the lever.
Just that I am spending allot of money on a $4k bike and the credit card is heating up or I would have at least gone with the RT3... I thinkbut that remote lockout... I am not sure but I think the RT3 has platform that you can dial but really if it is like the old one even with it dialed all the way up it still doesn't lockout very well. I hope the latest version of the RL only does 5mm of "forgiveness" before it locks. Most of Rockshox forks do about 10mm now. I have an ole revelation xx with hydro lockout that locks solid as heck and is also dual stage/2 position 110/140 (idiots don't even make any 2 levels anymore cause most people where clueless about the really great difference climbing with the lower position is. Still love that fork still works great after many years. With the RL on long fire roads and such I will turn the rebound knob all the way to ? with the lockout. That is what I also do when I don't have a rear shock that locks out or doesn't lock out all the way or well. That works really well with like the R for instance. What it doesn't do is sit high up in it's travel like the RL will. So, I just raise my dropper height a bit more when doing those type climbs. Hate the mostly proprietary spec that Giant did with that 184x48 with Rockshox. At least I think it is compared to a Fox 120mm shock or my wife's Marin Rift Zone Xfusion rear shock standard flex stay down mounted like the Stance but (210x50mm) . She wanted a lockout and it was really easy to find a decent one on amazon cheap in that size. Nothing I could find that would work with the oversized eyelet and lower shaft of the Monarch....except of course another Rockshox....
I might be really totally off on that I have no idea what the various shock "standards" are for dual suspension bikes. But I know bike manu companies team up to force consumers to go with a certain brand OE.
Did find this about the RT3:
Some of the Monarch RT3’s come with a reasonably stiff lockout when new but a lot of them don’t stay that way for long. Here’s why that happens and what can be done about it.

Rockshox Monarch RT3 Firm Lockout Upgrade | Blue Liquid Labs

 

[glovemtb77]

I will be reading more about your fork. I was going to test my 2021 Stance E+2 in my trails and maybe just go from 130 to 140 when the maintenance is due. This morning i found 2 new 29x2.6 Specialized so they will replace the 2.4 Rekon from day 1. One is a groundcontrol the other is a butcher. Wich should i put in front?

I have no idea, don't know those tires at all. I do like the big lugged Vee's, Wtb's, Conti's, with the thicker sidewalls for an dual suspension emtb. Of course all I can find right now is the maxxis minions in a 3.0 like I want lol, with their weak sidewalls. When I get a big lugged tire I don't worry much about front and rear specific like the DHF/DHR stuff very much. Certainly don't worry about weight of the tires either with a 55lb but 70nm ebike.
Again, the big lugged tough sidewalls for what I am doing with this bike and it is wicked rocky technical out here in Colorado.
If I am not doing technical stuff here I go with my Marin Nail Trail Steps E8000 70nm hardtail or Giant Explore +whatever (just know it has a 85nm motor lol.)

 

[1oldfart]

Can you please let me know, how many links are there on the 10S chain 2021 Stance E.
Mine will be a medium if it makes any difference.
I want to buy a spare before every shelve is empty. I bought an 11S for my present HT
and it looks like finding parts will be problematic for many months.
TIA

 

[glovemtb77]

Yea, I checked out the RT3 and the XX with the remote were $ verses getting the RL total driveout of 251.00. Cause I was not thrilled with having to reach so far down to hit the lever.
Just that I am spending allot of money on a $4k bike and the credit card is heating up or I would have at least gone with the RT3... I thinkbut that remote lockout... I am not sure but I think the RT3 has platform that you can dial but really if it is like the old one even with it dialed all the way up it still doesn't lockout very well. I hope the latest version of the RL only does 5mm of "forgiveness" before it locks. Most of Rockshox forks do about 10mm now. I have an ole revelation xx with hydro lockout that locks solid as heck and is also dual stage/2 position 110/140 (idiots don't even make any 2 levels anymore cause most people where clueless about the really great difference climbing with the lower position is. Still love that fork still works great after many years. With the RL on long fire roads and such I will turn the rebound knob all the way to ? with the lockout. That is what I also do when I don't have a rear shock that locks out or doesn't lock out all the way or well. That works really well with like the R for instance. What it doesn't do is sit high up in it's travel like the RL will. So, I just raise my dropper height a bit more when doing those type climbs. Hate the mostly proprietary spec that Giant did with that 184x48 with Rockshox. At least I think it is compared to a Fox 120mm shock or my wife's Marin Rift Zone Xfusion rear shock standard flex stay down mounted like the Stance but (210x50mm) . She wanted a lockout and it was really easy to find a decent one on amazon cheap in that size. Nothing I could find that would work with the oversized eyelet and lower shaft of the Monarch....except of course another Rockshox....
I might be really totally off on that I have no idea what the various shock "standards" are for dual suspension bikes. But I know bike manu companies team up to force consumers to go with a certain brand OE.
Did find this about the RT3:
Some of the Monarch RT3’s come with a reasonably stiff lockout when new but a lot of them don’t stay that way for long. Here’s why that happens and what can be done about it.

Rockshox Monarch RT3 Firm Lockout Upgrade | Blue Liquid Labs

Turns out the Monarch RL change out was not as easy as it should be. The 2021 Stance uses a lower shaft that requires there be no DU Bushing at all in the shock ! IOW, the aluminum shaft just rides on the naked eyelet. Stupid engineering for a 55lb dual susp. e-mtb. Not to mention that with a vice and 10mm and 16mm sockets I could not get the pre-installed bushing out of the new shock. The first bike shop here could not get it done. I went to Giant Centennial Colorado and a great way more experienced mechanic I know; Chris easily got the job done. I did not have the caliber of tool he had or the experience with stubborn pressed in bushings. Anyway, Monarch RL is on and the lockout works very solid right now at least. I know it will eventually have the same problems as an older RT3 above but right now, as I said; the lockout is very solid with just a 3~6 mm of initially give it get hardtail solid almost. Back to the engineering of the big aluminum shaft on the naked eyelet. On the shaft there was already some visible wear on the shaft and this is a brand new bike. The shaft will wear and eventually break and potentially taking the eyelet (thus the shaft of the shock with it.) ?What would have made more sense in the design would be to have a smaller steel shaft that would ride inside a du bushing. Then, there would be no wear on the steel shaft and you could simply replace the bushing because that is what it was designed for. ?

 

[glovemtb77]

Can you please let me know, how many links are there on the 10S chain 2021 Stance E.
Mine will be a medium if it makes any difference.
I want to buy a spare before every shelve is empty. I bought an 11S for my present HT
and it looks like finding parts will be problematic for many months.
TIA

I have no idea how many links there are and count count past 10 lol. But, I certainly recommend with an ebike carrying a few quick links with you. That has bailed me out a couple of times now; esp before I learned how to shift on an ebike. Back to no load shifting. Learning to shift like us old people used to do without automatic shifting in a car is pretty much it. Once I learned that, I quit breaking chains. Also, keeping track of chain stretch, chainring and cassette wear + keeping it well lubed also makes a difference. There are real good threads on here by experts on ebike chain maintenance and usage. The straight/manual shifting analogy was from one of them as well as recommendations for the X10 and not necessarily the $ of the KMC ebike 10sp chain.
That is all I use, even on my 85nm ebike. Of my 17 bikes in 2 homes, 6 are ebikes. (I raced distance mtb for allot of years now love training on my ebikes and getting into trouble many miles away and it bailing me out. ??.) ⛓

 

[glovemtb77]

Anyone know what bottom bracket crankarm axle standard is on the Stance E+2 ? From video below maybe ISIS on Syncdrive Pro. I am ditching the 165mm crank arms for 170s on the medium. Edit Pulled crankarm it is ST on the Sync Sport 2021.
I really want to have a reason to drop the motor and have a look lol. I guess I'll install a GreenPed in it. This bike I really don't feel the need to derestrict it like I did on my other Giant Gravel Ebike. Not to mention that I could just use the crankarm speed sensor trick like I am doing on that one. Simple pleasures though.
Did find this really nice mechanics guide motor, wiring harness maintenance. See below pdf. Also for bearing replacement see my friend Pete's video below:
Here is motor drop for speed delimiting installs on 2018 sync pro:

 

[1oldfart]

Is your shop not able to order one? I was thinking about the opposite going to 160mm.
We have lots of terrible rocks where i ride.

 

[glovemtb77]

Is your shop not able to order one? I was thinking about the opposite going to 160mm.
We have lots of terrible rocks where i ride.

It is square taper probably FSA. I am sure they could order it for you. Yes, we have horrible large embedded rock gardens here in the Rockies. That said, I won't compromise my natural pedaling motion I prefer for 30+ years for a few bashes. I have had a couple even on the 165's so far but not constantly vs doing thousands of revolutions during a ride. Matter or personal kinesiological ergonomics. Everyone is different YRMV, TEHO. Those bashes can be annoying.

 

[1oldfart]

It is square taper probably FSA. I am sure they could order it for you. Yes, we have horrible large embedded rock gardens here in the Rockies. That said, I won't compromise my natural pedaling motion I prefer for 30+ years for a few bashes. I have had a couple even on the 165's so far but not constantly vs doing thousands of revolutions during a ride. Matter or personal kinesiological ergonomics. Everyone is different YRMV, TEHO. Those bashes can be annoying.

If you know what you like no problem. 2 years ago for a few $ i went from 175 to 165 and i just loved the 165 so for me the only question is how much $ and there is a good chance i will pay to get 160. The Bike was Haibike but with Yamaha so i guess on my Giant/Yamaha it will not be a problem to switch.

 

[Cory S]

My Stance E+1 is amazing. Ridiculous range and climb ability. SyncDrive Sport motor has more power than anyone would need in reality.

 

[glovemtb77]

Turns out the Monarch RL change out was not as easy as it should be. The 2021 Stance uses a lower shaft that requires there be no DU Bushing at all in the shock ! IOW, the aluminum shaft just rides on the naked eyelet. Stupid engineering for a 55lb dual susp. e-mtb. Not to mention that with a vice and 10mm and 16mm sockets I could not get the pre-installed bushing out of the new shock. The first bike shop here could not get it done. I went to Giant Centennial Colorado and a great way more experienced mechanic I know; Chris easily got the job done. I did not have the caliber of tool he had or the experience with stubborn pressed in bushings. Anyway, Monarch RL is on and the lockout works very solid right now at least. I know it will eventually have the same problems as an older RT3 above but right now, as I said; the lockout is very solid with just a 3~6 mm of initially give it get hardtail solid almost. Back to the engineering of the big aluminum shaft on the naked eyelet. On the shaft there was already some visible wear on the shaft and this is a brand new bike. The shaft will wear and eventually break and potentially taking the eyelet (thus the shaft of the shock with it.) ?What would have made more sense in the design would be to have a smaller steel shaft that would ride inside a du bushing. Then, there would be no wear on the steel shaft and you could simply replace the bushing because that is what it was designed for. ?

One more note that is really important for anyone that is technical enough and sensitive enough to their position and upgrades to the RL on this bike. I did not want to go to the much more expensive xx with the remote so I decided to make my own remote with a locking remote from amazon and an assortment of springs. I have done these type of things very well over the years before fox and remote lockouts I made my own friction remotes with good throw length to go from completely unlocked to fully open. Anyway, as I got into the process I noticed how easy the remote was to unscrew the lil set screw and re-install at a 90 degree angle which faces up instead of down (The lever has 2 positions at 45 degrees from each other.)
This makes the reach to it much more accessible with my left hand. It is so easy that I just went with that instead of the remote lol. So problem was solved as far as easy reach for it with it facing up instead of down. Also, it doesn't stick out far at all from the shock body top mount with that new position (which was my other worry with the repositioning of the lever.) Most people have not a clue about cycling positional ergonomics but on the remote chance anyone is interested I will post a real pic of the reposition of the lever on the bike in the 2 positions.