Levo Gen 3 Seat too high.. cut seat post?

[RobG]

Hey folks... I picked up my shiny new Turbo Levo Alloy yesterday in size S3. I'm 5'8 with a 29" inseam and like some other threads I've seen here, the seatpost is too tall, by about an inch, maybe inch and a half. This is for pedaling; I haven't even tried it in the low position for going downhill, as (1) I've never had a dropper post before, and (2) I've only ridden the bike about a half mile so far. I need to charge it up this morning and get ready for a real ride today once the temps come up.

Anyway... In the other threads, the solution seemed to be replacing the seatpost, which isn't cheap. I was wondering -- what if I disassemble it and just cut it? Wouldn't that be basically the same as getting a shorter seatpost?

 

[Landy Andy]

Not sure if I am misunderstanding you, but you can’t just cut the end off a dropper post, as it has the valve mechanism on it that allows the drop.

 

[Bryan C]

I doubt you could easily cut and shorten the seatpost. I don't want to sound condescending, but did you have the bike shop help you with properly setting the seat height?

If OK, that leaves you with few options other than to replace the seatpost.

Oneup components is an excellent post with a great price point in today's market. A 120mm x 34.9 post and remote will run you around $260usd.
DROPPER POST - V2

 

[Gary]

 

[RobG]

Thanks... I figured there was a reason why it couldn't be done.

I'm a little disappointed that the LBS didn't actually set it up "for" me. They just built it and said here, have fun and sent me on my way. Maybe they thought I was in a hurry to get going? I wasn't. All I got out of them was how to pair my phone to the TCU. So last night I downloaded the PDF user manual and read through it.

I have no idea how the geometry is set... I suppose I could go look, but yeah it's a bit annoying they didn't tell me anything.

 

[timmers]

I don't think you'll be able to accomplish your goal by cutting the seatpost. For the short term you could limit its travel by using a bit of paracord or small diameter steel cable and loop it through the seat rails and then down to the dropper post tightening bolt (or something else fixed on your bike around the bottom of the seatpost), and then knotting that (or using a small clamp on the wire) such that it shortens the height of the seatpost extension to the height you feel comfortable with. I know it's a backwoodsy type "fix", but it will get you out on the trail feeling comfortable about the fit of your bicycle.

 

[RobG]

Thanks for the tip; I won't even go that far. I'll just let it back up, then adjust it back down a little as needed. If I have to stop to do so, I'll do that. I will eventually figure out what to do with it.

Appreciate the suggestions!! Now if the temps would just come up and the charging would also hurry up, I could get riding...

 

[steve_sordy]

I had the same problem on another bike and dropper combo several years ago. The height difference between what it was and what I wanted was slight but it was a constant irritation. I was contemplating changing the dropper, but I got lucky. The post failed and I got a shorter travel post as a warranty replacement. I doubt that you will be equally lucky, so what to do?

Buy another dropper of the same make but with a shorter travel and use that.
OR
Look carefully at the dimensioned drawings of various other droppers and choose one that has a lower body height above the seat tube. That may just make the difference. The sell your almost brand new original dropper.

 

[steve_sordy]

For example, Brand - X Ascend dropper seat post. This one from Chain Reaction Cycles

Brand-X Ascend Dropper Seatpost (100, 125 & 150) | Chain Reaction

Brand-X Ascend Dropper Seatpost (100, 125 & 150) - Lowest Prices and FREE shipping available from The World's largest online bike store - Chain Reaction Cycles

www.chainreactioncycles.com

On the image, arrow right to 8 of 10 to get the dimensioned drawing.

There are many different Brand X droppers, for example:

ascend | Chain Reaction

ascend - Get the Lowest Prices from the Worlds Largest Online Bike Store - Chain Reaction Cycles

www.chainreactioncycles.com

 

[Gary]

TBF the bike is fairly obviously too big for you. As can clearly be seen from how LOW the saddle is in your pic.
Modern geometry and "size up" thinking so prevalent in bike shops and throughout the industry just doesn't work for short riders unless you are an absolute pinner riding Enduro/DH and pushing the limits of stability.

 

[RobG]

Hmmm..... S2 = 5'2 to 5'8... S3 = 5'5 to 5'11. The bike fits me perfectly except for the seat height. And I hadn't even adjusted the seat yet when I took that picture. I got it out of the trailer, rode it around about 100 yards, parked it and plugged it in to charge.

Years ago when I had my Giant NRS 1, I got it in a Medium. After a while, I was convinced I should have gotten a small, so I spent a lot of time looking for, finally finding, buying, shipping, etc, etc a Small frame, and then moving all of the parts over... only to find I didn't care at all for how it fit me. Medium was the right choice after all.

 

[Gary]

The geometry of an old medium sized Giant NRS is pretty irrelevant.

 

[Mikerb]

I suggest youjust try riding with it. I rarely have my dropper post at full height. When offroad but riding seated rather than stood on pedals I usually have my seat post extended just beyond halfway. The only time my seat is at full height is if I am on a tarmac road.

Start off on the bike with the seat slammed. Then operate the lever and take weight off the saddle by pushing your weight down through the pedals. Release the lever at whatever height fells comfortable. The fact that the seat will in fact go a little higher is then not really relevant.

 

[Konanige]

I'm same height and inside leg as you, on a large Levo SL. Fit is perfect with a 150 dropper. The seat tube is 60mm longer on my bike than on your S3. If you find your saddle too High when fully slammed in seat tube, you must be riding with too much bend in your legs, this puts awful strain on your knee joints. I would suggest getting a bike fit before you start chucking money away.

 

[RobG]

I think the height of the seat at full droop is fine... it's just high when fully extended. I just came back from my first ride (a whopping 5.42 miles -- remember, I'm 53 and in lousy shape) but half of that was uphill and I gained about 850' if I remember correctly from the app.

This thing is pretty darn impressive. I used Smart Control and it was just enough for me to get up the hill... that plus a lot of shifting, of course. Man, I HATE these shifters. I like the ones where up is on top of the bar and down is below it. Super easy to always be easily to grab a gear up or down as needed... with these, I have to think about it.

I'm not going dump any money into this bike... heck I'm kinda out of money after buying it. After I ride it a while, I'll determine what changes I may want to make and then decide how to accomplish it. So far, though, this bike is fantastic.

I would have ridden more but (potentially TMI) I just had a big chunk of skin cancer (basal cell) removed from my right temple on Wednesday and my stitches don't come out until next Wednesday... and despite adding extra padding over the spot, my helmet was causing too much discomfort.

 

[olde-mtber]

A mate of mine wanted to ride my bike but the seat post was to high. Solution was to drop it get him on bike and then got him to stand on pedalswith slightly bent legs and hit the dropper lever till the seat hit him and that seemed to work the upshot of that he now rides a e-mtb. So my suggestion would be do that till you can get to your LBS and get them to sort out the problem for you like they should have in the first place.

 

[Pdoz]

. For the short term you could limit its travel by using a bit of paracord or small diameter steel cable and loop it through the seat rails and then down to the dropper post tightening bolt (or something else fixed on your bike around the bottom of the seatpost), and then knotting that (or using a small clamp on the wire) such that it shortens the height of the seatpost extension to the height you feel comfortable with. I know it's a backwoodsy type "fix", but it will get you out on the trail feeling comfortable about the fit of your bicycle.

This is a fantastic suggestion - thanks. My spare ebike has a one up dropper, and I waste way too much time swapping the spacers to modify the dropper travel every time a short rider borrows the bike.

The other thing I find helpful is to reduce the air pressure in the post so it comes up slower instead of slaming into the genitals of shorter riders. ( rob G , it's under the seat / on top of the dropper post )

 

[Gary]

Depending on brand of dropper it may be possible to restrict its travel by 10-20mm by shimming the top seal assembly.
But from what Konanige is saying above. It sounds like you may well simply not be used to riding in a fully extended pedalling position.
This is often the case for out of shape beginners.

 

[Pdoz]

Depending on brand of dropper it may be possible to restrict its travel by 10-20mm by shimming the top seal assembly.
But from what Konanige is saying above. It sounds like you may well simply not be used to riding in a fully extended pedalling position.
This is often the case for out of shape beginners.

If he drops the pressure on the spec post, it'll be sticking about 2/3 the way up within a couple of rides

 

[KnollyBro]

Depending on brand of dropper it may be possible to restrict its travel by 10-20mm by shimming the top seal assembly.
But from what Konanige is saying above. It sounds like you may well simply not be used to riding in a fully extended pedalling position.
This is often the case for out of shape beginners.

That would help. On my Levo SL S3 with the stock 150mm dropper, the saddle would not go as low as I would like it to ride DH. After misreading some thread on this Forum, I bought a Oneup 180mm for my new Kevevo SL which is now both too tall at full extension and still a little too tall to ride DH. I may have to try your angle grinder suggestion. I am 5' 8" as well. No one told me I was short!

 

[urastus]

Asking the obvious here, are you able to lower the seatpost into the frame? Loosen seat post clamp, push seat post down an inch or so? That bike doesn't look sized right though (as Gary has said). Your seat is going to be a fair way below the height of your bars - great for steep downhill, terrible for climbing and most other things. Is your leg nearly straight when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke, or is it still quite bent? I'm guessing your leg is quite bent. Ahh, just read Konanige's post above - it seems you need to set your bike up right. You might as well get maximum power from your legs and save money; win / win vs lose / lose.

How to set up the Seat Height and Saddle Position on Your MTB

Getting your bike set up so you get the best from it and that you have years of comfortable riding is fundamental to enjoying your cycling. We talked to the expert bike fitters at gebioMized to find out how to get your seat height dialled. There are now so many shiny upgrades you can buy […]

enduro-mtb.com

 

[Gary]

I am 5' 8" as well. No one told me I was short!

Plenty will have thought it. Rude of none of them to tell you.

 

[Doomanic]

 

[KnollyBro]

View attachment 87271

Thanks for sharing your favorite shoes! Being the self confident "shorty" that Doomanic has been his entire life, a quick search of "other" forums reviews his true passion for shoes

 

[RustyIron]

Is your leg nearly straight when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke, or is it still quite bent? I'm guessing your leg is quite bent.

^^^ What he said.

In the picture of your bike, assuming the seatpost is fully extended, the saddle looks really low. When pedaling while wearing your regular riding gear, when your leg is at the bottom of your pedal stroke, it should be just slightly bent. You don't want your knee completely straight, but you don't want it substantially bent, either.

The intention is to get the most strength out of your pedal stroke, with the least strain on your joints. Consider your knee like the pivot of a lever, and the force required to perform work. It's a trigonometric function---suffice it to say that the straighter the angle the less strain on the joint, and the maximization of power.

It's common, especially on the streets, but sometimes on the trails, to see riders with their saddles slammed. If they're riding around with their legs splayed out like a performing circus bear, there's probably a problem with the bike-fit. I think the tendency for riders to do this is two-fold:

1. People watch videos of Redbull Rampage, and think they'll look cool if their bikes are set up the same.
2. Ebikes can move along pretty quickly with minimal leg input, so people thing they're set up ok, when in fact, they're not.

So before going out and buying a new seatpost, check to make sure your existing one is set at the right height. And while your at it, you'll want to adjust the angle and the fore-aft position. Your naughty bits will thank you. Also, as you ride more, your leg-reach might increase a bit.

 

[steve_sordy]

Sit on the saddle, one foot with the heel on the pedal, pedal at the bottom, leg straight but not locked out straight. That will give you the most efficient saddle height for pedalling when the sole of the foot is on the pedal. It is a good height for climbing when it's not too rocky and for just blasting along. Other riders will disagree and say that it is too high for what they do and the trails they ride. OK, fair enough, but it is an easy to establish starting point.

 

[Mikerb]

I agree that is the most efficient pedalling height but offroad I use a lower position as a compromise between pedalling efficiency and a lower centre of balance, easy switch from seated to on the cranks, and the ability to save a fail. As soon as it gets fast and gravity driven I slam the seat out of the way.

 

[RebornRider]

I set my fully extended seat position as Steve mentioned above, and I use that height when pedaling on the flat to and from my trail ride. On the trail, I rarely have my dropper fully extended (same as Mikerb). Good droppers will hold any setting you want. I use a wide variety of settings between fully extended and maximum drop. I press a thigh against the side of the saddle to move it where I want it.

 

[steve_sordy]

I agree that is the most efficient pedalling height but offroad I use a lower position as a compromise between pedalling efficiency and a lower centre of balance, easy switch from seated to on the cranks, and the ability to save a fail. As soon as it gets fast and gravity driven I slam the seat out of the way.

Me too!

 

[Mcharza]

I set my fully extended seat position as Steve mentioned above, and I use that height when pedaling on the flat to and from my trail ride. On the trail, I rarely have my dropper fully extended (same as Mikerb). Good droppers will hold any setting you want. I use a wide variety of settings between fully extended and maximum drop. I press a thigh against the side of the saddle to move it where I want it.

I agreed, that's why we have dropper posts