Removing and replacing front wheel advice please

[JoeBlow]

For some reason I find it much easier to turn my bike upside down and present the wheel to the frame in that manner. The issues with this are:

1. The bike is a little unstable when I get to the point that it is resting on the saddle.
2. I have to cover the saddle to prevent damage.
3. I also have to raise the handle bars to prevent damage to the controls and display unit.
4. Getting it right side up is not easy.

It would be much more convenient if I could present the wheel to the frame or alternatively the frame to the wheel with the bike the right way up but for some reason I find this difficult as well as the axle does not seem to align precisely with the holes in the fork. (Fox36) I have tried using this stand XLC Bike Rack Pro (VS-F08) | Tredz Bikes but it is not as stable as I would like. This obviously requires some practice but which have you found easier, the front wheel in the stand or the rear wheel (the main body of the bike) in the stand? Is there a better stand?

As an aside should I grease the axle or use silcone?

 

[Bramble]

Same as you, I have always removed and installed wheels on all my bikes with the bike upside down on the ground. I find any other method more fiddly and harder to get the wheel aligned properly.
Agree, with a heavy ebike I do worry about damaging bar mounted controls.

 

[emtbPhil]

I never really have a problem - I take my front wheel off to put the car in a stand in the boot

I just wheel the bike out - hold the bars with one hand and lift the wheel in with the other

 

[JoeBlow]

I never really have a problem - I take my front wheel off to put the car in a stand in the boot

I just wheel the bike out - hold the bars with one hand and lift the wheel in with the other

Would you care to expand a little? Where do you hold the bars for example? What wheels and Forks? I use Fox 36 forks and DT Swiss wheels, could this be the problem? I have to hold off to one side because of the display and this contributes to the instability I suspect. Do you not find the weight of the bike an issue? etc. etc. Simply telling me you can do it easily does not help

 

[RickBullotta]

With newer Fox shocks that have the clamp bolt, the "sleeve" can move around a bit and make it difficult to get the front wheel in with one hand holding the bike. I put mine in upside down 98% of the time.

 

[JoeBlow]

With newer Fox shocks that have the clamp bolt, the "sleeve" can move around a bit and make it difficult to get the front wheel in with one hand holding the bike. I put mine in upside down 98% of the time.

It's reassuring to know it's not just me and a simple matter as implied above. Cheers. When I have the wheel apparently in place I have to "firkle" things about a bit to get the axle in. With the bike upside down it just goes in with no messing. Not sure whether gravity or weight is to blame.

 

[RustyIron]

Maybe a Bike Repair Stand would make your life easier. Attached is a pic of the one I use. Park makes a similar one that's a little more expensive and a little nicer.

 

[JoeBlow]

Maybe a Bike Repair Stand would make your life easier. Attached is a pic of the one I use. Park makes a similar one that's a little more expensive and a little nicer.

I'm sure it would and I have a Park stand but I would want something more portable for taking to the trail centre. I have to take the front wheel off in order to get the bike in the back of the car. It doesn't leave much room for such items.

 

[#lazy]

Try putting a towel on the ground for your seat worries and a book under each bar end ( I recommend “bike maintenance for dummies” issue 1&2) ? I don’t want to come across an arse but if you’re struggling to lift it upside down then maybe it’s time to call it a day

 

[JoeBlow]

Try putting a towel on the ground for your seat worries and a book under each bar end ( I recommend “bike maintenance for dummies” issue 1&2) ? I don’t want to come across an arse but if you’re struggling to lift it upside down then maybe it’s time to call it a day ☺

I have said I do take steps to protect the saddle. I did NOT say I was struggling to lift the bike upside down, I can manage that just fine as well as lifting it into the car, so I won't be calling it a day thank you. What I did say was that when it reached the point where it rests on the saddle it becomes a little unstable, this just at the time when I need to change my grip.

 

[#lazy]

Where did I say I was struggling to lift it upside down? I said there were issues but they did not include not being able to lift the bike upside down. I also said that I needed to protect the saddle so yes you are coming across as a bit of an arse. If you are struggling to read and understand perhaps it's time you called it a day with the forum

4. Getting it right side up is not easy.

 

[#lazy]

Where did I say I was struggling to lift it upside down? I said there were issues but they did not include not being able to lift the bike upside down. I also said that I needed to protect the saddle so yes you are coming across as a bit of an arse. If you are struggling to read and understand perhaps it's time you called it a day with the forum

Come on mate , it’s like going on a cooking forum and asking how do you boil an egg !

 

[Bramble]

I admit the front wheel is pretty straight forward but the rear wheel can be a pain. I'm always amazed when I watch the MTB XCO racers professional mechanics struggling to change a rear wheel with the bike the right way up. Flip it upside down and you'd shave 20second off that change!

 

[Coolcmsc]

Well, I suppose it is a bit trickier putting the front wheel in on an e-bike by lifting up the front (by grabbing the bars or whatever), but there’s no trick to it. It‘s easy if everything's lined up and impossible if not. Your question’s a bit surprising, but humbly asked, so here’s my tip which even works with a 25kg e-bike and Fox 38, RaceFace ARC rims, DTSwiss 370.

So, it’s all about getting your balance and the frame in balance all at the same time with everything ‘in line’ and having the wheel right there (balanced against my “outside leg” in my version) so you don’t have to get out of that ‘balance’ when you slip the wheel in. It can’t be done in a kind of jerky way.

So really, that’s the same for any bike. It’s just more important to be in ‘equipoise’ when the wheel goes in on a heavy bike.

I do have an alternative I use sometimes:—

I have the boot (in my case SUV rear door) open and lift the front of the bike up and over as if to put it upside down on the ground, but instead put the bars ‘in’ the boot. Now the bike is stable, kinda upside down and balancing on its back tyre on the ground and the bars in the boot. I can imagine putting a towel over the boot lip might be needed for some cars (not mine) to avoid scrapes.

Now the wheel slots in a treat.

But I don’t know why I ever use that method, ‘cos I usually just lift the front up in balance and in line and pop the wheel in.

 

[JoeBlow]

Thank you for the non patronising, constructive response. I thought I had explained the issues I am experiencing in an adequate enough manner to demonstrate that I was not simply asking how to put the front wheel on. That was naive of me. I'm not too old for mountain biking but I am most certainly feeling too old for engaging in forums

 

[congerball]

Never too old, it’s just a number….keep posting ??

 

[emtbPhil]

I didn’t mean to not answer. It just seemed like a weird problem.
I hold the bars at the stem with my left hand. Put the wheel in with my right. Sit it on the wheel then get the quick release and screw it in

Fox 34 forks with a boost quick release. 29” wheels.
I don’t find the weight an issue as holding up the front end with no wheel is a LOT lighter than lifting the entire bike upside down

 

[JoeBlow]

I didn’t mean to not answer. It just seemed like a weird problem.
I hold the bars at the stem with my left hand. Put the wheel in with my right. Sit it on the wheel then get the quick release and screw it in

Fox 34 forks with a boost quick release. 29” wheels.
I don’t find the weight an issue as holding up the front end with no wheel is a LOT lighter than lifting the entire bike upside down

I do that. The forks sit on the wheel OK but then the axle will not go through without fiddling the bike and the wheel about. The axle catches on something and will not pass through. This never happens with the bike upside down and presenting the wheel to the fork in this way. It's as if the weight of the bike is causing some misalignment.

This is my issue but some of the responses suggest to me that some people never got past reading the title of the post.

 

[Mikerb]

I push the dropper down and then pull the bike backwards with the back brake on to invert it and rest the bars on the bumper of my T5. I have riser bars which means only the end of the grips rest on the bumper ( but failing that a couple of sponges would prevent any damage). Wheel in or wheel out is then easy with no risk of damaging brake pads. The saddle does not touch the ground.

 

[Doomanic]

I have the back wheel in the boot and the motor resting on the boot floor with the bike upright. This gets the forks at about the right height to get the front wheel in and then it's just a little jiggle to get the axle in. It helps if you don't care about your car's interior when you do this though; I have tyre prints on the roof lining...

 

[emtbPhil]

I do that. The forks sit on the wheel OK but then the axle will not go through without fiddling the bike and the wheel about. The axle catches on something and will not pass through. This never happens with the bike upside down and presenting the wheel to the fork in this way. It's as if the weight of the bike is causing some misalignment.

This is my issue but some of the responses suggest to me that some people never got past reading the title of the post.

The end of the quick release axle is tapered - just wiggle it around as you slide it in and it self-aligns

 

[emtbPhil]

I have the back wheel in the boot and the motor resting on the boot floor with the bike upright. This gets the forks at about the right height to get the front wheel in and then it's just a little jiggle to get the axle in. It helps if you don't care about your car's interior when you do this though; I have tyre prints on the roof lining...

I have a mercedes E class estate. Rear seats down and then in the boot have fitted a van fork mount so the bike sits upright when I'm driving around.
The roof constantly gets muddy rear tyre marks on. I think it adds character though

 

[Slymobi]

Get a cheapo plastic storage box, wide enough for your bars to sit on and when you flip your bike upside down with resting on the saddle and outermost bars ( grips ) sitting on the storage box edges it keeps everything stable. Your accessories and / or controller will be seated within the storage box so never contacting the floor etc. The storage box should be easy enough to be stored somewhere in your car enroute to your destination. Might not be the solution your looking for but works for me when I need to flip the bike and like many I too remove wheels on the flip as it's just easier.

 

[#lazy]

Thank you for the non patronising, constructive response. I thought I had explained the issues I am experiencing in an adequate enough manner to demonstrate that I was not simply asking how to put the front wheel on. That was naive of me. I'm not too old for mountain biking but I am most certainly feeling too old for engaging in forums

I didn’t mean to come over as an arse and had just got in ftom a long drive , I thought I was quite funny tbh ?

 

[Coolcmsc]

I do that. The forks sit on the wheel OK but then the axle will not go through without fiddling the bike and the wheel about. The axle catches on something and will not pass through.….

Cupla extra points other responses have reminded me of. One is that I’m also old and weak and have to make stuff simple ?
Anyhoo…
1. Firstly, a bit of information gathering about your fork. With the bike properly upside down on the ground in a way you like remove the front wheel. Then, have a really good look at where the hub sits in each of the fork legs. You’ll see it’s slightly different on each side for your fork. Then, have a think about the exact angle would be best to pop in the wheel. This doesn’t matter with the bike upside down ‘cos gravity is your friend. But you’ll see exactly why so many here have said you must ‘jiggle’ the wheel in when the bike is upright. Once you’ve memorised the necessary angle of dangle for a swift and slick entry of the wheel, you can ensue you address the wheel to the forks in the way that will ensure they just slip in. The truth is, you shouldn’t think about getting the disk into the calliper. If you watch that, because it’s to one side, you’ll automatically tip the wheel a bit. It like riding: never look at that tree because if you do, you’ll travel directly to it ??? The same is true for the rear wheel. Study the necessary ‘journey’ the hub and cassette must follow. Learn that and then putting the rear in and out is easy, especially if you have a derailleur that locks open like the 12spd SRAM stuff.
2. This is also important. If you are struggling putting the wheel in with the bike upright, you are at risk in the U.K. of catching the brake lever on the back of your coat/jumper/etc which will close the brake pads and stop the disk slipping between them. It usually doesn’t happen, but one day it will. The lever can get squeezed with the same outcome if you put your bike flat on its side in the back of your car with the front wheel off. The solution for both is to put a spacer between the pads as soon as the wheel comes off. All good brakes/bikes come with one of these and they’re in most brake bleed kits - a mate never knew what they were for years ?
As has always been my practice, just whip it out at the last moment and slip it in…

 

[Mikerb]

Cupla extra points other responses have reminded me of:-
1. Firstly, a bit of information gathering about your fork. With the bike properly upside down on the ground in a way you like remove the front wheel. Then, have a really good look at where the hub sits in each of the fork legs. You’ll see it’s slightly different on each side for your fork. Then, have a think about the exact angle would be best to pop in the wheel. This doesn’t matter with the bike upside down ‘cos gravity is your friend. But you’ll see exactly why so many here have said you must ‘jiggle’ the wheel in when the bike is upright. Once you’ve memorised the necessary angle of dangle for a swift and slick entry of the wheel, you can ensue you address the wheel to the forks in the way that will ensure they just slip in. The truth is, you shouldn’t think about getting the disk into the calliper. If you watch that, because it’s to one side, you’ll automatically tip the wheel a bit. It like riding: never look at that tree because if you do, you’ll travel directly to it ??? The same is true for the rear wheel. Study the necessary ‘journey’ the hub and cassette must follow. Learn that and then putting the rear in and out is easy, especially if you have a derailleur that locks open like the 12spd SRAM stuff.
2. This is also important. If you are struggling putting the wheel in with the bike upright, you are at risk in the U.K. of catching the brake lever on the back of your coat/jumper/etc which will close the brake pads and stop the disk slipping between them. It usually doesn’t happen, but one day it will. The lever can get squeezed with the same outcome if you put your bike flat on its side in the back of your car with the front wheel off. The solution for both is to put a spacer between the pads as soon as the wheel comes off. All good brakes/bikes come with one of these and they’re in most brake bleed kits - a mate never knew what they were for years ?

I found over time those brake pad spacers get soiled and then contaminate the pads. Instead I use a rubber block between the grip and brake lever held on with a piece of elastic.

 

[Coolcmsc]

I found over time those brake pad spacers get soiled and then contaminate the pads. Instead I use a rubber block between the grip and brake lever held on with a piece of elastic.

Oh, that’s a good idea, thanks.

Yes, they do get mucky and must be cleaned if that happens before re-use as a result - and sometimes I’ve not bothered…..

I’ll use your idea now. I have an old Kong dog chew thingy that will be perfect ?

 

[aviserated]

This may have been stated before. Just make sure the rotor is inserted between brake pads before aligning and installing axle. This works with my bike, your bike may be different.

 

[JoeBlow]

I didn’t mean to come over as an arse and had just got in ftom a long drive , I thought I was quite funny tbh ?

Well apart from questioning my competence in public no real harm done. Perhaps next time you will do me the courtesy of reading and responding to the content and not the title,

 

[Barbara_Reed]

Well apart from questioning my competence in public no real harm done. Perhaps next time you will do me the courtesy of reading and responding to the content and not the title,

Well, that's not very friendly. You get a gracious apology and then you grouch back instead of just accepting it in the spirit it was given. However, to address your original point, maybe it would be easier to put your bike on a rack instead of inside the car, so the wheel can stay on? Then you only have to remove it for maintenance.