Thats very interesting as I don't feel any real difference between the two highest power modes.
That means that you have strong legs . Try to do what I suggested.
Thats very interesting as I don't feel any real difference between the two highest power modes.
I'm still worried that the app will cause me problems. For reasons not worth going into I managed to buy a very cheap E+0 from Canada but in doing so I have forgone my warranty (I'm based in the UK). A gamble indeed! Thanks for taking the time to explain how it all works though.That means that you have strong legs . Try to do what I suggested.
A new totally unscientific test of range. But I still like this guy and... guess which motor won
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Perfect write up of my recent thoughts great that you took the time to put this into text. ✌.Yes you are missing something. Let me explain why.
I think that there is a some confusion as to how this motor works. For example. This are my personal settings:
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What those numbers are, are percentages of your input. The 400 that is the maximum number is not maximum power in Watts. This is 400% of the input. OK. So what?
That means that the maximum that this motor can give you can be reached even in Eco mode set to 50%. You can reach the maximum on EVERY level. This is by design.
With default settings Sport is set to 250% and Power to 400%. My problem was that there was ABSOLUTELY NO difference between these two for me. Also the difference between Active set to 175% and Sport 250% was also MINIMAL. I could feel the difference at first spin, but after that the difference between Active and Sport was small. Why?
The answer is quite simple. My FTP (for those who don't know this is the max average you can produce in one hour) is right now 305. My usual wattage when just going biking is in the range of 150-200 Watts when going up the hill. So Sport 250% will try to produce power in the range of 375 to 500 Watts depending on my input. I have no idea what is the maximum power of Yamaha PW-X3 but it MUST be less than 500 Watts because switching to anything higher than 250% (higher than theoretical 500 Watts) makes ZERO difference. This is at least what my legs feel.
Now what? If you are a strong rider reduce EVERYTHING like me. If you are AVERAGE. Don't change anything. If you are a beginner max out everything. And PLAY with those numbers.
BUT. Why are you actually missing something without the app? Why to change anything? The answer is that if you will reach the max output of the motor too quickly (in Sport or even Active mode) your brain will be HIGHLY disappointed when switching to higher levels. Because there will be NO difference that will have any meaning. And that is not a nice feeling. Every assist level should produce a difference that you will be able to feel. Hope you will guys find that helpful .
Yes that's the general idea ✌Nice read this morning guys,very interesting.
According to what you're saying, someone with a strong input would not feel significant difference between mode 4 and 5 as they're already reaching max power on mode 4 rendering mode 5 the same.
I'm wondering if there would be any benefits on battery life by lowering the assistance IF you're reaching max power anyway, I guess not...except when you're just cruising and lowering input, therefore lowering motor output.
Nice read this morning guys,very interesting.
According to what you're saying, someone with a strong input would not feel significant difference between mode 4 and 5 as they're already reaching max power on mode 4 rendering mode 5 the same.
I'm wondering if there would be any benefits on battery life by lowering the assistance IF you're reaching max power anyway, I guess not...except when you're just cruising and lowering input, therefore lowering motor output.
This is very good point. What happens is that if I reach max power output of the motor on level 2 and someone is pedaling very lightly on 4 or 5, I will drain the battery first. That is why all those stories "I was pedaling on level 2 today and did bla bla kilometers..." don't mean much.
Nice recap✌After thinking about it the problem is that it is very hard to reach max power output on the lower modes forcing you to save battery.
Mode 1-2 will for sure make you save battery as it's pretty much impossible to reach max output.
Mode 3 I'm pretty sure you can reach max power ouput on some uphills and can consume as much as mode 4-5 for short bursts, but remain a good mode to save battery if not going too hard on the pedals.
Mode 4-5 it's just stupid easy to reach max output and maintain it consuming a lot of battery.
I think the factory settings are making a lot of sense now and I would even lower mode 5 max output to 350%.
I also think it would be very hard for someone to feel a significant difference between low/factory/high settings if you're in shape and have a good output being able to reach max power on mode 3-4-5...better lower the assistance to extract a bit of battery saving when you're more gentle on the pedals.
The only thing that test shows is that you should have bought a gravel bike! Really not representative of range when a typical MTB spin is an aggressive 1000 metres minimum.Did a ride today...
Auto mode only(no support on flat and downhill)
Half paved half fire roads
E+1 All stock settings and equipment
625Wh
15°C
Battery consumption 70% 》》》 42% = 28%
Elevation gain 507 m
Distance 19,4 km
Average Power 258 W(by Strava-not far of..in reality I am a bit bellow 250W)
Theoretically It works out to a range of 69km and altitude gain of 1810m...I guess the Auto mode isn't that bad even though it feels funny sometimes.
One interesting point was my full power result of 632W (by Strava analysis) on a climb segment where I was pushing full out gas...probably it would be even better because I forgot to lock the shock...
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Hey, don't realy get what your point is here. I am trying to be a helpful member of the forum community so I post what I experienced...if someone thinks it's useful for them ok if not let it be...The only thing that test shows is that you should have bought a gravel bike! Really not representative of range when a typical MTB spin is an aggressive 1000 metres minimum.
Hey, don't worry, just a passing comment, no offence meant. There seems to be a lot of obsessing over power delivery, maybe it's part of the ebike game. I'm riding a Reign and it's phenomenal out of the box at default settings, don't see any need to change anything. More riding less analysis!
First post here after ordering a Reign E+ 1 (2022)!
Hugely exciting to pick up my new bike past Friday in full riding gear ready to ride the trails back to my house, and an epic disappointment as the motor stopped working after one crank on tarmac right outside my LBS. Tried a couple of times at different power levels with the same result. The bike stops giving power after one or two pushes on the crank. I tried the walk mode briefly, and that seemed to work. Got back to the shop and they tried with the same result. Had to ride home on tarmac on a hybrid bike that I borrowed from LBS
Called LBS on Monday, and they were told by Giant to try another battery. Same result. Apparently, they also checked the speed sensor and magnet (but I don't know how they checked). Now it seems that they will just try changing things until they find something, starting with the control. This could take time as mine is one of the first in the country and there is no experience with Ergo 3 or the top tube control and no parts readily available.
I thought you guys might be able to point me and my LBS in the right direction to fix the bike so I can hit the trails as quickly as possible. Have any of you experienced something similar, and what was the solution in your case?
(I tried some googling, but did not find an equivalent case. Sorry in case my google skills are terrible.)
Hey don't know what 15 half stone means but I am 88kg with all the gear ✌, sorry for a late reply...I must have missed your postAre you a big lad ?? Weight wise just wondered as im 15 half stone trying to get a feel for range
Im 98kg so a bit heavier than you which willaffect range just wanted to compareHey don't know what 15 half stone means but I am 88kg with all the gear ✌, sorry for a late reply...I must have missed your post
Im 98kg so a bit heavier than you which willaffect range just wanted to compare
Friend had this very issue, bike shut down when pressure applied to the pedals. It was diagnosed as a pinched lead on top of the motor, new lead on the way from Giant.
I put a deposit on an e2 was told by lbs that it was faulty b4 i picked it up turned out the wires above the motor were crushed bike was doa managed to source another bike
CrikeyWith both kids, Mac Ride seat, and Tout Terrain Streamliner we are something like 145kg
So I got my Reign E+3 yesterday, installed the app and I guess I broke the firmware. Registered on the app, connected to the bike which was all fine.. Told me to update the firmware, which I did (otherwise it wouldnt let me use the app).. Smartphone on full charge, bike on 85%.. After updating was complete, the bike went off. Did not think about it.. Waited a moment, turned it back on...
I can connect via app, system tests says all ok, but the bike keeps shutting off after 30 seconds roundabout. I cannot switch modes, neither does the motor work when pedaling.. So what now?
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