Problem with giant fathom e+2 flashing red and Wight led

[Winky]

Need help with giant fathom e+2 had it serviced new chain ring cassette and chain got it back and now I having problem with the bike it keeps cutting out and the red and Wight led flashes together its speed setting 3 and red together

 

[simonk]

That signifies a speed sensor issue. Could be the sensor, wiring or magnet. Is the magnet still attached to the spoke (assuming it has a spoke magnet... my 19 Trance did.)
Probably time to get it back to the shop unfortunately.

 

[Winky]

Yes magnet still there and in line with speed sensor so looks like a trip to giant thanks for the reply

 

[MRB]

Yes magnet still there and in line with speed sensor so looks like a trip to giant thanks for the reply

I've just had the same problem with my Trance - the motor cut out after 50 meters with the red sensor light flashing. Interestingly my 10 year old grandson could ride the bike without the motor cutting out. This suggested that my extra weight must be pulling a broken cable apart. After waiting 4 weeks for a new speed sensor / cable ordered through my LBS (I'm still waiting) I decided to take matters into my own hands and see if I could find the problem myself. It turned out to be a break in one of the wires inside the speed sensor - though my speed sensor is in the chain stay with the magnet on the brake rotor - but its the same principle - a magnet activate reed switch. I took the bash plate off to get to the cable. Two of the allen screws are behind the chain ring which makes them difficult to remove. But rather than take the chain ring off I just ground down the short side of an allen key to about 5 mm long which enabled me to get at the two screws. Two more 3mm allen screws hold the sensor into its pocket at the end of the chain stay. Take care as the speed sensor holes are threaded as well as the holes they screw into. The cable can be withdrawn along the chain stay by pulling the speed sensor.

The sensor cable is made up of 3 wires RED, BLACK and GREEN. The red and the black are the ones that the current passes along via the speed sensor reed switch - not sure what the green does........ I think the red and black are the two outer pins on the connecter, can't be certain as I've forgotten. But if you remove the sleeve at the connecter you can see which pin is connected to which wire. Anyhow there was a nick in the cable just after where it comes out of the bash plate. I cut the cable at at the nick and then checked the wires with a multi meter - from the plug/connecter to where I had cut it - every wire was OK.

Checking for a circuit on the other half of the cable, from the cut via a closed sensor (a magnet held on it) I could not get a reading with any combination of wires so decided there must be another break in the wire. A bit of flexing of the cable found another weak spot - so another cut, and yes I found a broken red wire.

A repeat of the tests with the multi meter, and this time success - with a magnet on the speed sensor I got a circuit using red and black - nothing on the green. I soldered everything back together with some heat shrink tube and tape over the joints. With every thing back together and the cable held to the motor with lots of bits of tape I took the bike for a ride. It was fixed.

I then spent quite some time routing the rear brake line, gear and speed sensor cables in the limited space around the motor. (There are other post on this).There's lots of the speed sensor cable, so it has to be doubled back on itself. There needs to be some slack as when the suspension is compressed all three cables are pulled significantly. Looking at the missing paint on the bottom of motor where the cables had been rubbing testified to this. Tape and a few small cable ties, over and above the single one used to hold the sensor and brake lines to the chain stay, and I had the movement I wanted. Plus I now had the cables coming out of the 'slots' in the bash plate - much better than before. If the new speed senor/cable part no 4430-FSJISS-01 every arrives I'll have a spare!

I also have a Planet 3 derestricter on the bike - excellent, unless you are a data man and want to see your speed, distance etc etc on the app which is now incorrect.

 

[J robinson]

I've just had the same problem with my Trance - the motor cut out after 50 meters with the red sensor light flashing. Interestingly my 10 year old grandson could ride the bike without the motor cutting out. This suggested that my extra weight must be pulling a broken cable apart. After waiting 4 weeks for a new speed sensor / cable ordered through my LBS (I'm still waiting) I decided to take matters into my own hands and see if I could find the problem myself. It turned out to be a break in one of the wires inside the speed sensor - though my speed sensor is in the chain stay with the magnet on the brake rotor - but its the same principle - a magnet activate reed switch. I took the bash plate off to get to the cable. Two of the allen screws are behind the chain ring which makes them difficult to remove. But rather than take the chain ring off I just ground down the short side of an allen key to about 5 mm long which enabled me to get at the two screws. Two more 3mm allen screws hold the sensor into its pocket at the end of the chain stay. Take care as the speed sensor holes are threaded as well as the holes they screw into. The cable can be withdrawn along the chain stay by pulling the speed sensor.

The sensor cable is made up of 3 wires RED, BLACK and GREEN. The red and the black are the ones that the current passes along via the speed sensor reed switch - not sure what the green does........ I think the red and black are the two outer pins on the connecter, can't be certain as I've forgotten. But if you remove the sleeve at the connecter you can see which pin is connected to which wire. Anyhow there was a nick in the cable just after where it comes out of the bash plate. I cut the cable at at the nick and then checked the wires with a multi meter - from the plug/connecter to where I had cut it - every wire was OK.

Checking for a circuit on the other half of the cable, from the cut via a closed sensor (a magnet held on it) I could not get a reading with any combination of wires so decided there must be another break in the wire. A bit of flexing of the cable found another weak spot - so another cut, and yes I found a broken red wire.

A repeat of the tests with the multi meter, and this time success - with a magnet on the speed sensor I got a circuit using red and black - nothing on the green. I soldered everything back together with some heat shrink tube and tape over the joints. With every thing back together and the cable held to the motor with lots of bits of tape I took the bike for a ride. It was fixed.

I then spent quite some time routing the rear brake line, gear and speed sensor cables in the limited space around the motor. (There are other post on this).There's lots of the speed sensor cable, so it has to be doubled back on itself. There needs to be some slack as when the suspension is compressed all three cables are pulled significantly. Looking at the missing paint on the bottom of motor where the cables had been rubbing testified to this. Tape and a few small cable ties, over and above the single one used to hold the sensor and brake lines to the chain stay, and I had the movement I wanted. Plus I now had the cables coming out of the 'slots' in the bash plate - much better than before. If the new speed senor/cable part no 4430-FSJISS-01 every arrives I'll have a spare!

I also have a Planet 3 derestricter on the bike - excellent, unless you are a data man and want to see your speed, distance etc etc on the app which is now incorrect.

Hi do you still have 4430-fsjiss-01 speed sensor please