Pauliemon
Active member
C U LATER!
Party time!
- Thread starter Pauliemon
- Start date
C U LATER!
It fascinates me when someone tackles an install like this as a garage/patio mechanic. Are you trueing them yourself?
Throw out some details of your build. I’ve watched a number of videos on different types of techniques and models but I haven’t taken the plunge yet, but I can true a wheel …kinda.
Throw out some details of your build. I’ve watched a number of videos on different types of techniques and models but I haven’t taken the plunge yet, but I can true a wheel …kinda.
Pauliemon
Active member
- Thread starter
- #5
I've built close to 800 wheels. I used to own a mail order that specialized in custom wheels. Equal tension is the trick. But you need a tension meter.
This one is expensive and well used. There are inexpensive ones out there that work good. You can get by with feel and true it if it comes out of true. The biggest problem when beginning is getting them round. When lacing do one side at a time. If it's a 32 hole put in 8 spokes then flip it and put in another 8. When you have it flipped insert another 8 on the opposite Flange. At this point you'll start the cross pattern. Go to Sheldon Brown's site. He explains wheel building way better than I can.
Pauliemon
Active member
- Thread starter
- #6
The majority of my builds were with alloy rims. I've only built around 10 with carbon rims. The difference is huge. Alloy can be manipulated and coaxed. Carbon is a stubborn bitch.
Garage mechanics will build there own wheels. They'll get them pretty close. When they go out of true they just true them up. I couldn't do that, I was sending wheels to Bumfuck, Timbuktu. They had to be true and stay true.
If you build it wrong it'll tell you about it. Ping, Crack, pop, uh oh! Stressing the wheel is crucial. After stressing put it back in the truing stand. If it's true your done, if not repeat.
I pretty much learned on my own. Lots of questions to other builders. A few unbuilds to see what was going on. Taking advise from the strangest places. Once a 13 year old kid made a comment about one of my early builds. He was spot on and I used his advise for the rest of my builds. That 13 year old grew up to be one hell of a bike mechanic. Some of my riding buddies benefited from my biz. I'd give them a set of high end wheels and say "break these". Nobody ever broke one but I think I was just lucky.
I had a government job for 30 years. It sucked, actually some of the people sucked. It was easy money and they complained constantly. By the time I was 50 I'd had enough. I retired on my 50th birthday. I figured I'd do my mail order but no. A bike shop contacted me with a job. I couldn't turn down the money. After a couple of years another shop hired me away from that shop. I only lasted a year at that shop. Ventana Mountain Bikes offered me a job and I was gone. I spent 8 years at Ventana, best job I ever had. If I wanted a bike I just built it. I learned a lot about geometry and stress, etc.
I'm the guy with the glasses. The guy next to me is Robert Ives of Blue Collar Bikes fame. Yes I cut the tubes for all those frames.
Garage mechanics will build there own wheels. They'll get them pretty close. When they go out of true they just true them up. I couldn't do that, I was sending wheels to Bumfuck, Timbuktu. They had to be true and stay true.
If you build it wrong it'll tell you about it. Ping, Crack, pop, uh oh! Stressing the wheel is crucial. After stressing put it back in the truing stand. If it's true your done, if not repeat.
I pretty much learned on my own. Lots of questions to other builders. A few unbuilds to see what was going on. Taking advise from the strangest places. Once a 13 year old kid made a comment about one of my early builds. He was spot on and I used his advise for the rest of my builds. That 13 year old grew up to be one hell of a bike mechanic. Some of my riding buddies benefited from my biz. I'd give them a set of high end wheels and say "break these". Nobody ever broke one but I think I was just lucky.
I had a government job for 30 years. It sucked, actually some of the people sucked. It was easy money and they complained constantly. By the time I was 50 I'd had enough. I retired on my 50th birthday. I figured I'd do my mail order but no. A bike shop contacted me with a job. I couldn't turn down the money. After a couple of years another shop hired me away from that shop. I only lasted a year at that shop. Ventana Mountain Bikes offered me a job and I was gone. I spent 8 years at Ventana, best job I ever had. If I wanted a bike I just built it. I learned a lot about geometry and stress, etc.
I'm the guy with the glasses. The guy next to me is Robert Ives of Blue Collar Bikes fame. Yes I cut the tubes for all those frames.
I suppose I could justify a smancy-fancy tension meter (like that, nice)if I was truing more than 10 bikes (friends & family) but I’ve got the cheap one. I occasionally get the LBS to calibrate it but it’s still only “semi-accurate”. I think 20% tension range is acceptable for mtb’s but I try for 5% variance with a true wheel. I find the Park Tool tension app helps me visualize any problem spokes but I’m sometimes chasing my tail between tension and truing.
I’m looking at the i9 hydra 32 spoke. I’ve broken a few spokes (neighbour also) on our 28 spoke Bontrager stuff. I hope the hubs fail sooner than later so I can upgrade
Last edited:
Probably a good cleaning fluid toojamo BB is my go to.
.
Pauliemon
Active member
- Thread starter
- #10
You've got it dialed. You don't need a high end tension meter if you're not building a lot. The Park meter works great. The Park will last far beyond 10 bikes.I suppose I could justify a smancy-fancy tension meter (like that, nice)if I was truing more than 10 bikes (friends & family) but I’ve got the cheap one. I occasionally get the LBS to calibrate it but it’s still only “semi-accurate”. I think 20% tension range is acceptable for mtb’s but I try for 5% variance with a true wheel. I find the Park Tool tension app helps me visualize any problem spokes but I’m sometimes chasing my tail between tension and truing.
I’m looking at the i9 hydra 32 spoke. I’ve broken a few spokes (neighbour also) on our 28 spoke Bontrager stuff. I hope the hubs fail sooner than later so I can upgrade
Pauliemon
Active member
- Thread starter
- #14
Time to party?
Finish building them last night. After that a search of the shop for tubeless valves and tape. Found! But no sealant.
There was fresh sealant in the stock wheels/tires. So a careful removal and mounting was successfully pulled off. Now a little check over for a ride tomorrow. But wait! My new AXS shifter was only shifting one way! The freaking small paddle on the shifter is dead (or it will be when i smash it).
Finish building them last night. After that a search of the shop for tubeless valves and tape. Found! But no sealant.
There was fresh sealant in the stock wheels/tires. So a careful removal and mounting was successfully pulled off. Now a little check over for a ride tomorrow. But wait! My new AXS shifter was only shifting one way! The freaking small paddle on the shifter is dead (or it will be when i smash it).
I'm just impressed you downed a whole bottle of Jamesons ..and still had the clarity to do a wheel build ..
I would be totally bladdered..
Pdoz
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I need glasses...that bag in the third picture looked like the contends were herbal rather than brass.
maynard
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I thought same thing .
snapped me out of it.
I was looking at the Nextie site and wondering which rim you chose. Why 28 spokes instead of 32?
Pauliemon
Active member
- Thread starter
- #22
With carbon rims and stiffer spokes it's as strong as a 32. Plus I only weigh around 170lbs/77kgs. Then the fact that I got a smokin' deal on some 28° Industry Nine hubs. I think when your building your own go with what makes you comfortable. The weight difference between 28° and 32° is almost nil.
Thanks! I have made a number of aluminum 26" DH wheels but never any carbon wheels. When you say Carbon is a stubborn bitch, does that mean when you are trueing or tensioning them? My wife recently bought me a set of WeAreOne carbon wheels with I9 hubs so my experience with carbon is very limited. For the type of riding I do, I have honestly yet to notice a difference between the WeAreOne wheels and the DT Swiss 511/Hope Pro 4 wheels we usually use (we also use Cushcore front and back and low tire pressure). My wife does say that I am incensitive but as a wheel builder, do you see THAT much of a difference to go carbon? I would be building a set for a winter project so I am thinking ahead. Where did you find the cheap I9 hubs? Thanks again!
Whoa!, I had to read that twice.
Pauliemon
Active member
- Thread starter
- #26
Aluminum is softer than carbon. Alloy can get out of shape but you can coax it back. Carbon is flexible but it does not bend. Carbon will flex to a point and then break. Not that Carbon rims break all the time, they don't.
Building with carbon is a bit different. The rims are so stiff. You'll find that what you take on one side, you need to give away on the other side. This applies to any wheel build but more so on carbon. Tensions ramp up quickly. When I'm lacing alloy I take the nipples right to the end of the threads. With carbon I leave a little space on the threads. I'll bring all the nipples to the end after it's laced. Doing that gives me a bit of slack to move the hub and spokes around.
Taking the nipples to the end of the threads gives me a starting point. It's just a personal method that I use. It doesn't equalize tension, it's just a starting point. It will tell you if your spoke length are proper or not though. I hope this helps and look foward to seeing your new build.
I got the I9s on Ebay. Slightly used in perfect condition. A great set of inexpensive hubs are XTR 900s. Cheap and light and spin forever. Only problem is they are not sealed bearings. I don't know how they'd do in Vancouver. It's probably a little more dry down here in Cali.
I’m not snapping spokes like my neighbour who has the same bike (rail 9.7) . 28 spoke alloy Bontrager wheels and hubs. He’s 25-30lbs heavier than I and more aggressive (yet less incensitive ).
I just got a quote for the i9 hydra hub (I was shocked) but I’m considering keeping my alloy wheels (28 spoke). This would also be a winter project and my first try at lacing. I’m also considering the Tairin silent hub (based out of Surrey BC.)
I don’t think I need the carbon wheels and my existing alloy 28 spoke could keep the price down. I’ll probably go to the LBS (trek) with him and see what happens.
).I just got a quote for the i9 hydra hub (I was shocked) but I’m considering keeping my alloy wheels (28 spoke). This would also be a winter project and my first try at lacing. I’m also considering the Tairin silent hub (based out of Surrey BC.)
I don’t think I need the carbon wheels and my existing alloy 28 spoke could keep the price down. I’ll probably go to the LBS (trek) with him and see what happens.
Pauliemon
Active member
- Thread starter
- #28
Yeah Stihdog alloy rims are just as good. I mean none of us need carbon we just desire it. There are plenty of reasonably priced hubs out there also. If you think I9s are expensive check out Chris King, YOW! I scored the I9s for $400US with 6 hole adapters. That's me, always looking for good deals. I just got a Specialized Slaughter tire for $14US.I’m not snapping spokes like my neighbour who has the same bike (rail 9.7) . 28 spoke alloy Bontrager wheels and hubs. He’s 25-30lbs heavier than I and more aggressive (yet less incensitive
I just got a quote for the i9 hydra hub (I was shocked) but I’m considering keeping my alloy wheels (28 spoke). This would also be a winter project and my first try at lacing. I’m also considering the Tairin silent hub (based out of Surrey BC.)
I don’t think I need the carbon wheels and my existing alloy 28 spoke could keep the price down. I’ll probably go to the LBS (trek) with him and see what happens.
I am guessing your wives don't read this forum as that one line just blew up my months worth of prepping "Oh yes honey, carbon is WAY better for us than aluminum which is soooo pedestrian. It will make us ride faster and longer, jump higher and farther and basically live much longer. Carbon parts are basically functional diamonds!"
I think I have a few functional diamonds but man I love my AXS stuff. It all starts becoming subjective doesn’t it? My stuff vs your stuff vs their stuff. Thank goodness we’re all different.…otherwise…
Now I’m gonna exercise my freedom and massage her feet as a down payment for the Zeb Ultimate
Now I’m gonna exercise my freedom and massage her feet as a down payment for the Zeb Ultimate
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