PART # 2: SHIMANO BRAKE SYSTEM – Orbea Rise Brake System Modification

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
This technical article is the second installment in a two part series on Shimano brake systems.

Refer to “
Part # 1: Shimano Brake System Service”, for information on bleeding and servicing Shimano brakes and brake pad compounds.


In Part # 2, I discuss modifying the Shimano brakes on your Orbea Rise, using Shimano upgrades. I will divide the article into four areas of discussion, 1) Shimano Brake Hoses, 2) Shimano Brake Systems, i.e. brake levers and calipers, 3) Shimano brake rotors and 4) The correct Caliper Adapter required for upgrading the size of the brake rotor on your Rise.


1. Let’s Begin:

Below is a brake system chart for each Orbea “Rise” Model. Listed in the chart are "Optional" brake system upgrades offered by Orbea for each Rise model. It's possible the dealer may have optioned one of these upgrades on your Rise.

Screenshot 2022-06-30 16.05.13.jpg


Due to covid, bicycle manufacturers are having increasing difficulties sourcing parts. It’s possible, your Rise may come from the factory with brake components that differ slightly from the chart. Don't shoot me.

Knowing which brake parts are on your Rise is important. As an example, the Rise M-20 comes stock with Deore two piston calipers and SM-BH90-SS brake hose with straight connection fittings. If you wished to replace the two piston brake calipers with four piston brake calipers. You would need to buy Deore M6120 four piston or MT520 brake calipers which are compatible with the SM-BH90-SS brake hose and straight fittings.

In many instances, the differences in braking performance between older and newer style Shimano four piston calipers is very minor. I have XT BR-M8120 brake calipers on my Rise M-20. My buddy has Deore BR-M6120 brake calipers on his Rise M-20. When I tried his bike, I honestly couldn’t feel a difference, except for maybe the lightness in my wallet from the loss of cash charged for the XT brakes.

For those interested, here is a great video by YouTuber LoveMTB who compares the Shimano Deore M6120 brake system against the Shimano XT 8120 brake system.



The easiest improvement you can do to any disc brake system is to increase brake rotor size. Unless your Rise was ordered with brake upgrades, it will come with 180mm brake rotors front and rear. Modern eBikes typically come standard with 200mm or 203mm brake rotors. eBikes are heavy and it takes a lot of braking force to haul down an eBike at top speed. The smaller the rotor, the less gripping action. The less grip, more friction. More friction equals more heat and brake fade. More brake fade leads to worn brake pads and you the rider, not stopping so well after a long downhill run.


In my opinion, the Rise’s two piston brake calipers and 180mm brake rotors are sub-standard with one exception. If you tend to ride cross country flow trails, then two piston calipers and 180mm brake rotors are perfectly adequate. However, if you find yourself hard charging technical trails, then stronger braking forces are required.

An anatomically correct gesture given by the skeleton at the entrance to Bone Yard Trail, Iron Hills Trail System. This is a badass trail, A++++
IMG_1606.JPG


2. Brake Hoses:
Knowing which brake hose and fittings you have on your Rise is important. You don’t want to spend money on new calipers only to realize the brake hose fittings on your Rise are not compatible with the new calipers.

When contemplating a brake system upgrade, it is always useful to first review Shimano’s brake system compatibility chart. The chart will identify if there are incompatibility issues and also what you will need to make an upgrade work.


All modern Shimano brake levers, Deore, SLX, XT, XTR, use a straight fitting hose connection at the lever.
image-7-1024x797.jpeg


Some Shimano brake calipers use a straight fitting connection, others use a banjo fitting connection. Pictured here is a Banjo style brake hose fitting.
IMG_2579.jpg


Shimano currently uses two types of brake hose on its braking systems. They are the SM-BH59 and SM-BH90 brake hoses. As a general rule, lower level brake components will use a Shimano SM-BH59-SS brake hose. Higher level braking components will use either a SM-BH90-
SS or a SM-BH90-SBM brake hose.

The “SS” abbreviation refers to the brake hose's connection fittings, i.e. straight fitting at the brake lever and straight fitting at the caliper. An "SBM" brake hose abbreviation refers to a straight fitting at the brake lever and a banjo fitting at the caliper.


Lower level two piston brake calipers use a straight fitting brake hose connection. Higher level SLX, XT, XTR two piston calipers use a banjo style brake hose connection.

Deore four piston calipers such as the M6120 and the MT520 use a straight fitting brake hose connection. Shimano "20" series brake calipers, i.e. M7120 SLX, 8120 XT, 9120 XTR, use a "Banjo" fitting brake hose connection.


Deore M6000, two piston brake caliper with straight fitting
P-BR-M6000_15944_1_750_750.jpg


Deore M6120, four piston brake caliper with straight fitting
41P1eka27YS._AC_.jpg


XT M8000, two piston brake caliper with banjo connection fitting
CRE_69178.jpg


XT M8120, four piston brake caliper with banjo fitting
SHIMANO-DEORE-XT-M8120-M8100-Brake-4-Piston-MTB-Hydraulic-Disc-Brake-ICE-TECH-Pads-Front.jpg


Orbea Rise models come from the factory with Shimano BH90 brake hose installed on the bike. The Rise Hydro H30 comes with Shimano MT410 brakes. Shimano's compatibility chart states MT410 brake components use the BH59 brake hose. All other Hydro models use BH90 brake hose.

Shimano BH59 and BH90 brake hose differs in internal diameter size. The BH59 hose has an internal diameter of 2.3mm, whereas the BH90 hose has an internal diameter size of 2.1mm. The outside diameter of both hoses is the same at 5mm. I believe the reduced internal diameter of the BH90 brake hose increases hydraulic pressure at the caliper.

Hose barb fittings for the BH59 and BH90 are NOT compatible. If you have BH59 brake hose, you must use a BH59 hose barb. If you have a BH90 brake hose, you must BH90 hose barb. This is due to the differing internal diameter size of the two hoses. The external diameter of both hoses is the same at 5mm, so the olive can be used on either hose.

Screenshot 2022-06-20 07.52.14.jpg


Screenshot 2022-06-20 08.52.41.jpg


Screenshot 2022-06-20 08.50.42.jpg


3. Shimano Brake Levers:
Depending upon the level of your Rise brake lever, i.e. Deore, XT, etc., it may or may not come with several rider customization features.

The first feature is "Lever Reach." SLX and above brake levers have a castellated screw on the brake lever that allows the rider to make a tool free adjustment in regards to how far the brake lever extends away from the handlebar. Deore and lower brake levers have a hex screw which requires the use of a tool to make the reach adjustment.

Screenshot 2022-06-23 18.43.05.jpg


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A second useful feature is "Free Stroke" adjustment. Brake levers XT and above have a "Free Stroke" adjustment screw. The "Free Stroke" adjustment screw allows you to adjust how far you have to squeeze the brake lever before the caliper pistons advance the brake pads far enough to engage the brake rotor, i.e. Bite Point. The terrain we ride varies all around the world. Some riders may prefer a softer, feathery engagement, whereas other riders may prefer a quicker and more firm engagement.

BL-M8100_R_C219_1_750_750.jpeg


Screenshot 2022-06-23 18.11.01.jpg


4. Shimano Brake Calipers
If you own a Rise M20 or Hydro model and you wish to upgrade from two piston brake calipers to four piston calipers, your easiest method of upgrade is to purchase a set of Deore BL-M6120 or BL-MT520 four piston brake calipers which are compatible with the SM-BH90-SS brake hose that comes stock on the bike. If you own a Rise M-LTD with two piston calipers and wish to upgrade to four piston calipers, the SM-BH90-SBM brake hose that comes stock on the bike is compatible with SLX or above, "20" series, i.e. XT M8120, four piston brake calipers.

In some instances, Rise M-20 forum users have reported that during a caliper upgrade, their BH90 rear brake line did not adequately reach the connection port on the four piston caliper. Usually the shortage is only a few millimeters and you may be able to pull enough slack in the brake hose to reach the caliper. If there is not enough slack to be had, you may need to lower the motor to gain slack. The rear brake hose travels down the downtube and makes a sharp bend upwards and over the top of the motor, where it makes another sharp bend out the top of the motor mount shell via the black rubber guide tube. Because of the multiple bends, it can be difficult to pull enough slack in the brake hose, thus lowering the motor is called for.

Here is a post which details how to lower the motor:

If you own a M-20 or Hydro and you wish to upgrade to Shimano SLX 7120 or above four piston brake calipers, you will need to install SM-BH90-SBM "banjo" style brake hose. To replace the rear brake hose, you have the option of lowering the motor and replacing the brake hose or fishing the new hose through the frame using the old brake hose. I would try to fish the hose through the frame first, just know it can be difficult. If you are not successful, then lower the motor.

To fish the new brake hose, you must firmly attach it to the old brake hose. Buy a 1.5 inch/38mm long, fine thread machine screw which has a diameter slightly larger than the inside diameter of the BH90 brake hose. Thread one end of the machine screw about halfway into the old hose. Cut the head off of the screw. Thread the new brake hose onto the other end of the screw. Thread both hoses together so that they firmly meet with no gap between them. Spray the new hose with a silicone lubricant and the old hose where it exits the top of the motor mount shell. Start from the rear due to the banjo fitting. Begin pulling on the old hose, starting at the rubber hose guide which can be lifted up. The screw may pull out while pulling. If it does, then drop the motor and install the hose.

All Thread Rod.jpg


There are aftermarket companies on Amazon and eBay that sell Banjo fitting adapters which will convert your BH90 straight fitting brake hose into a banjo style brake hose. I am hesitant to recommend this procedure because experimenting with you brake system with unknown parts can be dangerous. The banjo fitting adapter works by installing the banjo fitting onto the caliper. Next, thread the Rise's straight fitting brake hose into the banjo adapter.

Screenshot 2022-06-27 15.41.44.jpg


5. Shimano Brake Rotors
Unless your Rise's brake rotors were upgraded at the factory, it will come stock with 180mm brake rotors front and rear. An increase to 203mm will make a noticeable improvement in braking performance.

Ebike assist speed is regulated by law. The non drive side chain stay on the Rise has a speed sensor pickup mounted on it. The rear brake rotor has a magnetic pickup. As the rear wheel turns, the magnet mounted on the rotor passes over the speed sensor on the chain stay. The speed sensor determines your speed based on the frequency of the pulses as the rotor's magnet passes over the speed sensor. If the speed sensor does not pick up a magnetic pulse as the wheel turns, it will shut off the motor and issue a fault code.

The rear rotor on your Rise must have a magnetic pickup in order for your bike to work. Shimano 203mm Centerlock brake rotors with magnet pickup are difficult to source as the supply is limited. There are manufacturers besides Shimano who manufacture centerlock rotors with a built in magnet pickup, including Jagwire and Magura.

When I first got my Rise M20, I installed SRAM G2 brakes with 200mm centerlock brake rotors. SRAM does not make a centerlock brake rotor with magnetic pickup. I tried various centerlock rotor magnet adapters sold by Bosch, Trek and others. These were not successful and my bike fault coded. I next superglued a Neodymium rare earth magnet to the brake rotor. This worked really well for a few weeks. Then my Rise began to fault code on rides and shut off. After some hair pulling and research, I learned that rare earth magnets will lose their magnetism when subjected to high heat, i.e. glued to a brake rotor. The magnetism will return after the magnet has cooled. However, if the magnet is subjected to enough heat cycles, the loss of magnetism will become permanent.

I eventually stopped trying to re-invent the wheel and purchased a set of Shimano XT brakes. No more fault codes or romantic walks in the park....Can I get a hallelujah please!


Note: I recently saw a new style of magnetic adapter for centerlock rotors. The magnet adapter clamps around the circumference of the centerlock locking ring. This adapter would allow you to use any manufacturers centerlock rotor. I don't recall where I saw the adapter, possibly on a Hydro or Wild? If you know of this magnetic adapter, please take a picture and add it to the thread so others can view and consider it as a viable option.

Six bolt rotors are much easier to upgrade.
You can use any type of manufacturer's six bolt brake rotor, the supplies are plentiful. The bolt pattern is universal across the industry. The correct six bolt magnetic adapter can be purchased on Orbea's website.

Here is a picture of my Rise with RT-EM800 203mm rotor. The Orbea Rise blue paper states a 220mm brake rotor cannot be used on the rear of the Rise due to clearance issues.
IMG_1627.jpg


6. Caliper Adapters:
If you plan to increase the size of the brake rotor on your Rise, you will need to purchase a brake caliper adapter. Brake caliper adapters work like a spacer block to increase the height of the brake caliper in order to compensate for the increased diameter of the brake rotor.

Example of a brake caliper adapter

Screenshot 2022-06-27 18.11.05.jpg



"Post Mount" is a term used to describe the two threaded lugs which the brake caliper bolts to on the frame and fork. The height of the post mount is determined by the size of the brake rotor which the bicycle manufacturer sets the bike up to use. Orbea has set up the Rise frame to use a 180mm rear brake rotor, thus the frame's rear brake lugs are 180mm post mount.

If a 203mm brake rotor is used on the rear of a Rise, then the 180mm post mount height has to be increased by 23mm to compensate for the larger diameter brake rotor. Use Shimano caliper adapter "SM-MA-F203P/PM" if you wish to install a 203mm brake rotor on the rear of your Rise.

The Fox 34 has a 160mm post mount and thus will accept a 160mm rotor and brake caliper bolted directly to the fork. If a larger 180mm or 203mm brake rotor is used, then a caliper adapter is required to compensate for the increased rotor size.

The Fox 36 has a 180mm post mount and thus will accept a 180mm rotor and brake caliper bolted directly to the fork. If a larger 203mm or 220mm brake rotor is used, then a caliper adapter is required to compensate for the increased rotor size.

The Marzocchi Bomber Z2 found on the Rise Hydro H-30 uses a 160mm post mount and will accept a 160mm rotor and brake caliper bolted directly to the fork. If a larger 180mm or 203mm brake rotor is used on the Marzocchi Bomber Z2, then a caliper adapter is required to compensate for the increased rotor size.

Picture of my Rise rear brake with 180mm post mounts. I have increased the rotor size from 180mm to a 203mm brake rotor. I have used a SM-MA-F203P/PM brake caliper adapter to compensate for the 23mm in increased rotor size.
IMG_1628.jpg


Here is a picture of my Fox 36 fork with 180mm post mounts. A 180mm brake rotor and caliper would bolt directly to the fork and no caliper adapter would be needed. However, I have increased the front rotor size to 203mm. I am using a SM-MA-F203P/PM brake caliper adapter to compensate for the increased rotor size. The same "Post Mount" caliper adapter used on the rear of the bike can also be used on the front fork's 180mm post mounts.

Not all surfaces are machined perfectly flat and true. The conical spacers used in conjunction with the caliper bolts allows the user to adjust the angle of the caliper so it remains square to the face of the brake rotor despite any out of true machining on the fork or caliper adapter.

IMG_1629.jpg


Shimano does not recommend using a 220mm brake rotor on a 160mm post mount, i.e. Fox 34 fork and therefore does not manufacture a 60mm caliper adapter.

If you wish to install a 203mm brake rotor on your 160mm post mount front fork, then Shimano recommends you use the flat and more rigid SM-MA-F203P/P caliper adapter as seen pictured below.

Screenshot 2022-06-27 19.38.05.jpg


Refer to Shimano's brake caliper compatibility chart for further details:

Note: In the below charts, I have included fork upgrades and downgrades offered by the Orbea factory for each model Rise.


Screenshot 2022-07-05 08.56.12.jpg


Screenshot 2022-07-05 08.56.31.jpg


Cheers
 
Last edited:

cookie70

Active member
Mar 23, 2022
204
152
Central Coast, Australia
Thanks for the great write up.

I couldnt help myself and found a video of that Bone Yard Trail, looks awesome! Some of those doubles on the ridge line would get the heart racing.. looks like an amazing place to ride
 

RustyIron

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Subscriber
Jun 5, 2021
1,837
2,863
La Habra, California
Good job, Rod B. You're taking over where Sheldon Brown left off. That part about joining two pieces of hose with a home made nipple is interesting.
 

Malicefox

Member
Apr 21, 2022
18
16
USA
Thanks for another great write up. I do have an observation though. Everything i see says the Fox 34 fork has a 160mm post mount but my M20 with a Fox 34 came with a 180mm rotor up front with no adapters of any kind for the brake caliper. I installed a SM-MA-F203P/PM on my fork which spaced it out perfectly for the 203 rotor. Is the SM-MA-F203P/P spaced any different from the SM-MA-F203P/PM? Or is it just considered more rigid? I have noticed under hard cornering i do get a bit of brake rub up front. So if its more rigid, i may consider swapping it.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
Thanks for another great write up. I do have an observation though. Everything i see says the Fox 34 fork has a 160mm post mount but my M20 with a Fox 34 came with a 180mm rotor up front with no adapters of any kind for the brake caliper. I installed a SM-MA-F203P/PM on my fork which spaced it out perfectly for the 203 rotor. Is the SM-MA-F203P/P spaced any different from the SM-MA-F203P/PM? Or is it just considered more rigid? I have noticed under hard cornering i do get a bit of brake rub up front. So if its more rigid, i may consider swapping it.
Malicefox,

Thank you for pointing this out. You are 100% correct. I went back and checked with Fox who also owns Marzocchi. All pre-2022 Fox 34, Fox 34 Step Cast and Marzocchi Bomber Z2 suspension forks have 160mm post mounts. However in 2022, Fox changed the post mounts on the Fox 34 and Fox 34 Step Cast to 180mm post mount. I've made subsequent changes to the caliper adapter charts to reflect this fact. I and the other forum users appreciate the heads up.

Here is some additional information from Fox's website. As a side note, Fox does not recommend anything larger than a 203mm rotor on Fox 34 and Marzocchi Bomber Z2 forks with 160mm post mounts.

Screenshot 2022-07-01 11.47.41.jpg


Marzoochi Bomber Z2 Owner's Manual
Screenshot 2022-07-05 09.01.34.jpg


The SM-MA-F203P/P caliper adapter has a different mounting and structural design than the SM-MA-F203P/PM caliper adapter. According to Shimano because it is flat and not curved, it's slightly more rigid structurally. I've never used a flat caliper adapter on a 180mm post mount. I'd recommend sticking with the standard post mount, curved style. I've attached pictures of a "Post to Post" SM-MA-F203P/P flat adapter and a "Post Mount" SM-MA-F203P/PM curved adapter. Note the differences in mounting design. You will typically see flat Post to Post caliper adapters on road and gravel bikes.

1656704458401.png


IMG_1629.jpg


Let's talk rotor rub on hard cornering. I've never experienced rotor rub due to a flexing caliper adapter. I have had caliper bolts loosen up which can cause a rubbing or banging noise during braking.

The first thing I check when I am experiencing rotor rub during hard cornering, are the wheel hub bearings. I do this by putting the bike on a repair stand or turn the bike upside down. I spin the front wheel. I put my finger on a fork tube near the axle and I feel for any vibration. The wheel should spin absolutely smooth. If you feel any vibration/roughness, it means you have a wheel bearing going out. A worn wheel bearing will allow the wheel hub to move on the axle and cause the brake rotor to rub on the caliper.

Note: Most modern wheel hubs use cartridge bearings. Shimano however, still uses "Cup and Cone" style wheel bearings on some wheel hubs. If you have a Shimano hub which uses "Cup and Cone" bearings, you can re-adjust the bearing pre-load and remove wheel hub play and stop the rotor rubbing when hard cornering.

Another area that can cause the rotor to rub during hard cornering is the front axle. If the axle is a clamping style, it can spread apart or loosening up under hard load, it will allow the wheel hub to shift slightly on the fork tubes and the rotor will rub on the caliper. Because of this, I am not a big fan of clamping/lever operated front wheel axles. I like bolt style, screw in wheel axles. There are several advantages to this type, I can tighten the living crap out of the axle and I don't have to worry about the clamping lever hitting or clipping a rock when I'm negotiating a tight rock feature. Below is a picture of my Wolf's Tooth bolt style front axle on my bike.
IMG_1644.jpg
 
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Malicefox

Member
Apr 21, 2022
18
16
USA
As always thanks for the thourough information! I did check for wheel vibration and its completely smooth thankfully. You may be onto something with the QR axle though, I havent used one in years as i always used screw in style axles. I may look into swapping this out to see if it helps. (losing a few lbs off my fat arse may also help with the flex too haha)
 

Funks

Member
Oct 8, 2021
85
49
Dublin, CA
The free stroke adjust on the XT levers don't actually work. The only thing better on the SLX and the XT levers compared to the DEORE (BL-M6100) is the fact that you can replace the lever blades with Flo Motorsports PRO 120 Lever blades.

Shimano doesn't sell replacement lever blades for the BL-M6100 (I guess they expect you to throw it away even though removing the blade is the same procedure as the other SLX and the XT levers - lever blades are the first thing to bend on a crash), and the Flo MotorSports PRO 120 Lever blades only fit on the SLX (BL-M7100) and the XT (BL-M8100) levers.

Additionally, the MARZOCCHI BOMBER Z2 has a 160mm post mount on the fork. It's the Z1 that has the 180mm.
 
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Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
The free stroke adjust on the XT levers don't actually work. The only thing better on the SLX and the XT levers compared to the DEORE (BL-M6100) is the fact that you can replace the lever blades with Flo Motorsports PRO 120 Lever blades.

Shimano doesn't sell replacement lever blades for the BL-M6100 (I guess they expect you to throw it away even though removing the blade is the same procedure as the other SLX and the XT levers - lever blades are the first thing to bend on a crash), and the Flow MotorSports PRO 120 Lever blades only fit on the SLX (BL-M7100) and the XT (BL-M8100) levers.

Additionally, the MARZOCCHI BOMBER Z2 has a 160mm post mount on the fork. It's the Z1 that has the 180mm.
Funks,
Thank you for the heads up. I made corrections to Part # 2 of the Shimano Brake tech post above to reflect the fact that the Marzoochi Bomber Z2 has 160mm post mounts. For those interested, here is a screen capture from Orbea's website for the H30. If you looking closely you can see it has a 160mm to 180mm caliper adapter and a 180mm brake rotor.

Screenshot 2022-07-05 09.12.27.jpg


I would not say outright that Shimano's free stroke adjustment "Does not actually work." Let's just say it "Struggles" a lot with being pretty much useless as compared to other brake manufacturer's and their free stroke customization. I've always liked the free stroke barrel adjuster on the SRAM Guide and Code brakes which allows me to make a quick and tool free adjust while on the trail.

You are correct, Shimano does not offer a replacement brake lever blade for the Deore BL-M6100 brake lever. I'm guessing the reason for this is economics. A brand new Deore BL-M6100 brake lever assembly can be purchased for about $30.00. If a lever blade were offered, by the time you paid the purchase price, shipping and tax, the price would be about the same. A SLX lever can be purchased for about $16.00 online.

I've never swapped brake lever blades between a Deore lever and SLX, XT, etc. I wonder if the SLX would fit on a Deore BL-M6100 brake lever assembly? Anybody try it before? For those interested, here are the parts sheets for the Deore BL-M6100, SLX BL-M7100 and Deore XT BL-M8100 brake levers:

Deore BL-M6100 Brake Lever
Screenshot 2022-07-05 09.36.22.jpg


SLX BL-M7100 Brake Lever
Screenshot 2022-07-05 09.37.57.jpg


Screenshot 2022-07-05 10.02.45.jpg


Screenshot 2022-07-05 10.05.15.jpg


Screenshot 2022-07-05 10.07.21.jpg
 

Funks

Member
Oct 8, 2021
85
49
Dublin, CA
I've never swapped brake lever blades between a Deore lever and SLX, XT, etc. I wonder if the SLX would fit on a Deore BL-M6100 brake lever assembly? Anybody try it before? For those interested, here are the parts sheets for the Deore BL-M6100, SLX BL-M7100 and Deore XT BL-M8100 brake levers:

I tried installing Flo Motorsports Pro120 MTB lever blades on the BL-M6100 and couldn't get it fitted. No problems fitting it on a BL-M7100 and a BL-M8100 lever though. I'm assuming the lever blade attachment is slightly different albeit you remove a BL-M6100 lever blade exactly the same way (grub screw, and push the pin out) as you would an BL-M7100 or the BL-M8100.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
I tried installing Flo Motorsports Pro120 MTB lever blades on the BL-M6100 and couldn't get it fitted. No problems fitting it on a BL-M7100 and a BL-M8100 lever though. I'm assuming the lever blade attachment is slightly different albeit you remove a BL-M6100 lever blade exactly the same way (grub screw, and push the pin out) as you would an BL-M7100 or the BL-M8100.
I've added a Deore XT brake lever to my post above. When you look closely at the Deore, SLX and XT, you can see that the axle pin on the Deore lever is located in a different position than on the SLX and XT brake lever body. I'm guessing this alters the piston actuating cam design/size on the Deore blade and make the XT/SLX blades incompatible. Is this what you found when you tried to swap blades?

Screenshot 2022-07-05 09.36.22.jpg


Screenshot 2022-07-06 05.44.13.jpg


XT brake lever blade
Screenshot 2022-07-06 06.34.36.jpg
 

Hjwemtb

New Member
May 8, 2022
5
1
Uk
Such a useful post Rod, thank you so much.

Do you know if it is possible to use SRAM 6 bolt centreline 220mm and 200mm rotors with the MT4100 brakes? Maybe with post mount adapters of some kind?

I have just purchased a Rise H30 and I have 2 sets of wheels with a SRAM 220mm front and 200 rear and a Fox 36 setup that I’d like to keep using from my outgoing bike.

Any help appreciated. Many thanks.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
Such a useful post Rod, thank you so much.

Do you know if it is possible to use SRAM 6 bolt centreline 220mm and 200mm rotors with the MT4100 brakes? Maybe with post mount adapters of some kind?

I have just purchased a Rise H30 and I have 2 sets of wheels with a SRAM 220mm front and 200 rear and a Fox 36 setup that I’d like to keep using from my outgoing bike.

Any help appreciated. Many thanks.
Hjwemtb,

Yes, it is possible to mix one manufacturer's brake rotor with another manufacturer's brake caliper. Rider's do this all the time for various reasons. I have not combined a Shimano MT410 caliper with SRAM rotor. I hesitate to provide assurances it will work because I've never done it. Theoretically it should work provided the set up is done correctly.

If you do combine a MT410 brake caliper with SRAM rotor here are some considerations you should know about.

1. The Rise H30 comes with either a Marzocchi Z2 or Fox 34 front fork.

Year 2021, Marzocchi Z2 and Fox 34 forks which have a 160mm post mounts are limited to a maximum front rotor size of 203mm. Year 2022, Fox 34 with 180mm post mount is limited to a maximum rotor size of 220mm. Year 2022, Marzocchi Z2 with 160mm post mount is limited to maximum front rotor size of 203mm.

If you increase rotor size, you must use the correct corresponding caliper adapter which will space the caliper out to match the larger diameter rotor. You must use the correct sized adapter or you will ruin your brake pads. As an example, if you plan to use a 200mm SRAM rotor on a Marzocchi Z2 with 160mm post mounts, you will need to use a 40mm caliper adapter (200mm rotor - 160mm post mount = 40mm). The correct SRAM 40mm adapter is SRAM Part # 00.5318.007.003.

Note: As a rule of thumb, you can safely use up to a 43mm caliper adapter. Anything past 43mm creates a safety issue due to leverage exerted on an unsafe/oversized adapter during braking. Long term flex on the bolts and post mounts would result in metal fatigue which could potentially shear the bolts or post mounts off and lead to really really bad shit. Therefore if your fork has 160PM then the maximum rotor size is 203mm. If your fork has 180PM, then the maximum rotor size is 220mm.

2. The H30 comes stock with Raceface AR-30 wheels with have Deore or equivalent center lock hubs. You can purchase an adapter that will allow you to use a six bolt rotor on a center lock hub.

71mVIUYRf0L._AC_SL1500_.jpg



1671731187273.png


3. When mixing disk brake components, there is the chance of encountering a compatibility issue or instance of "Brake Pad Overhang."

I once used SRAM calipers on a Shimano Ice Tech rotor. The two were compatible and worked, however the enlarged holes on the rotor's braking surface rapidly wore my SRAM brake pads down.

Not all manufacturer calipers play well with other manufacturer brake rotors. I once tried using a two piece Hope rotor with my SRAM G2 caliper. No matter how much I adjusted the caliper, the rotor's two piece mounting rivets rubbed the caliper.

Another area to take into consideration is rotor thickness. Some manufacturers use a much thicker brake rotor than Shimano. Shimano brake rotors are 1.80mm thick, whereas SRAM brake rotors are 1.85mm thick. The added thickness may require depressing the pistons farther into the caliper. To do this, you may need to bleed off brake fluid at the lever or caliper.

Shimano uses 160mm, 180mm, 203mm and 220mm diameter brake rotors. SRAM, on the other hand uses 160mm, 180mm, 200mm and 220mm rotors. The difference in rotor size on Shimano's 203mm rotor means It's easy to inadvertently use the wrong brake caliper adapter. As an example, say you want to use a 200mm SRAM rotor on a Marzocchi Z2 with 160mm post mount (PM). You will need to use a SRAM 40mm brake caliper adapter. You can use a 43mm Shimano brake caliper adapter, however this leads to a situation called "Brake Pad Overhang."

Brake Pad Overhang is an issue that can occur when an incorrect sized caliper adapter is used and spaces the caliper on too far, or not enough. Mounting a correct sized caliper adapter incorrectly, i.e. 180 degrees backwards will also lead to brake pad overhang.

phpzAOKDGAM.jpg


Use the correct adapter and make sure it's orientated correctly.

831692d1379103670-shimano-xt-brake-pad-wear-issue-img_7701_small.jpg


Here is a great article that may help you.

I hope this helps you out.
Be safe, Rod

Here is a picture of my buddy hitting a gap jump on his H30.

IMG_2499.JPG
 

Hjwemtb

New Member
May 8, 2022
5
1
Uk
Hjwemtb,

Yes, it is possible to mix one manufacturer's brake rotor with another manufacturer's brake caliper. Rider's do this all the time for various reasons. I have not combined a Shimano MT410 caliper with SRAM rotor. I hesitate to provide assurances it will work because I've never done it. Theoretically it should work provided the set up is done correctly.

If you do combine a MT410 brake caliper with SRAM rotor here are some considerations you should know about.

1. The Rise H30 comes with either a Marzocchi Z2 or Fox 34 front fork.

Year 2021, Marzocchi Z2 and Fox 34 forks which have a 160mm post mounts are limited to a maximum front rotor size of 203mm. Year 2022, Fox 34 with 180mm post mount is limited to a maximum rotor size of 220mm. Year 2022, Marzocchi Z2 with 160mm post mount is limited to maximum front rotor size of 203mm.

If you increase rotor size, you must use the correct corresponding caliper adapter which will space the caliper out to match the larger diameter rotor. You must use the correct sized adapter or you will ruin your brake pads. As an example, if you plan to use a 200mm SRAM rotor on a Marzocchi Z2 with 160mm post mounts, you will need to use a 40mm caliper adapter (200mm rotor - 160mm post mount = 40mm). The correct SRAM 40mm adapter is SRAM Part # 00.5318.007.003.

Note: As a rule of thumb, you can safely use up to a 43mm caliper adapter. Anything past 43mm creates a safety issue due to leverage exerted on an unsafe/oversized adapter during braking. Long term flex on the bolts and post mounts would result in metal fatigue which could potentially shear the bolts or post mounts off and lead to really really bad shit. Therefore if your fork has 160PM then the maximum rotor size is 203mm. If your fork has 180PM, then the maximum rotor size is 220mm.

2. The H30 comes stock with Raceface AR-30 wheels with have Deore or equivalent center lock hubs. You can purchase an adapter that will allow you to use a six bolt rotor on a center lock hub.

View attachment 103360


View attachment 103361

3. When mixing disk brake components, there is the chance of encountering a compatibility issue or instance of "Brake Pad Overhang."

I once used SRAM calipers on a Shimano Ice Tech rotor. The two were compatible and worked, however the enlarged holes on the rotor's braking surface rapidly wore my SRAM brake pads down.

Not all manufacturer calipers play well with other manufacturer brake rotors. I once tried using a two piece Hope rotor with my SRAM G2 caliper. No matter how much I adjusted the caliper, the rotor's two piece mounting rivets rubbed the caliper.

Another area to take into consideration is rotor thickness. Some manufacturers use a much thicker brake rotor than Shimano. Shimano brake rotors are 1.80mm thick, whereas SRAM brake rotors are 1.85mm thick. The added thickness may require depressing the pistons farther into the caliper. To do this, you may need to bleed off brake fluid at the lever or caliper.

Shimano uses 160mm, 180mm, 203mm and 220mm diameter brake rotors. SRAM, on the other hand uses 160mm, 180mm, 200mm and 220mm rotors. The difference in rotor size on Shimano's 203mm rotor means It's easy to inadvertently use the wrong brake caliper adapter. As an example, say you want to use a 200mm SRAM rotor on a Marzocchi Z2 with 160mm post mount (PM). You will need to use a SRAM 40mm brake caliper adapter. You can use a 43mm Shimano brake caliper adapter, however this leads to a situation called "Brake Pad Overhang."

Brake Pad Overhang is an issue that can occur when an incorrect sized caliper adapter is used and spaces the caliper on too far, or not enough. Mounting a correct sized caliper adapter incorrectly, i.e. 180 degrees backwards will also lead to brake pad overhang.

View attachment 103362

Use the correct adapter and make sure it's orientated correctly.

View attachment 103363

Here is a great article that may help you.

I hope this helps you out.
Be safe, Rod

Here is a picture of my buddy hitting a gap jump on his H30.

View attachment 103364
Thanks man, really detailed and useful reply.

I’ll try out the stock fork for a bit and then decide what to do. Super excepted to get this bike. Not sure why, but H30 very discounted in UK at moment .

Thanks again.
 
Dec 1, 2022
11
2
California
Fantastic write up , I thought I knew somethings but read your piece and got confused. I have a 2022 H30 with the MT410 2 piston brakes, according to your write-up these brakes have the BH59. Am I able to change the calibers and levers to XT8120 series using the same cables? Thought I read that in this group..thanks for your work.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
Fantastic write up , I thought I knew somethings but read your piece and got confused. I have a 2022 H30 with the MT410 2 piston brakes, according to your write-up these brakes have the BH59. Am I able to change the calibers and levers to XT8120 series using the same cables? Thought I read that in this group..thanks for your work.
WithSimone2022,

I got up this morning to do a ride and what do I see......Rain. I'm now bored at home and have an excessive amount of time to answer your question. I'm guessing others reading this post may have a similar question about BH59 brake hose on the H30. Here's the five dollar response...wahoo!

If you visit Shimano's technical webpage section, you will find compatibility charts listed for various components including brake hose. According to Shimano's brake hose compatibility chart, the MT410 brake system is NOT compatible with BH90 brake hose. The MT410 brake system is listed as compatible with BH59 brake hose.

Shimano's BH59 brake hose compatibility chart lists the SM-BH59-JK-SS (Straight fitting on each end) as being compatible with the MT410 brake system.
Screenshot 2023-01-30 07.03.23.jpg


Shimano's BH90 brake hose compatibility chart does not show any compatibility with the MT410 brake system.
Screenshot 2023-01-30 07.02.53.jpg


In my Shimano brake tech series, I identified that both the BH90 and BH59 brake hose have the same outer diameter. This would theoretically allow the use of BH59 and BH90 brake hose on the MT410 brake system. I have not personally worked on a H30 Rise and cannot verify which type of brake hose Orbea has installed on the H30. Shimano components are hard to source these days and manufacturers often make component changes in order to keep bike production moving.

I'm going to assume that you are inquiring about BH59 brake hose on your Rise H30 because you are thinking of upgrading to a four piston caliper such as the Deore M6120? The Deore M6120 caliper uses the same brake hose straight fittings as what comes stock on the H30. However, the Deore M6120 caliper uses BH90 brake hose.

There are two ways you can identify which brake hose you have installed on your Rise H30. Check the length of the front brake hose and see if you can find a BH59 or BH90 printing on the hose. The other way is to remove the brake hose at the brake lever and check to see which hose barb insert has been used.

The BH59 hose has an internal diameter of 2.3mm, whereas the BH90 hose has an internal diameter size of 2.1mm. Because of this, each type of hose uses a different type of hose insert. If you see a gold/brass colored insert, your Rise has BH59 brake hose. If you see a silver colored insert, your Rise has BH90 brake hose.

s-l500 (2).jpg
Image1brake.jpg


Note: if you remove the brake hose at the lever to see which insert you have, you will need to perform a small bleed after reconnecting the brake hose to the lever. The process is quick and easy, but does require a few simple tools, bleed cup and Shimano brake fluid.

Here's a good video explaining how to do a small bleed at the brake lever using a Shimano bleed cup.

The logical question to ask "How would switching brake hose types, i.e. use BH59 brake hose on a Deore M6120 brake caliper which is supposed to use BH90 hose, affect braking?" The short answer is, I don't know, I've never done it before.

I am not an engineer, but I do know that when I put my finger over the end of a garden hose, I can increase the pressure of the water via the finger restriction. I also know that a restriction lowers the volume of water being delivered out of the hose. It stands to reason that the larger internal diameter of the BH59 brake hose will deliver more fluid volume to the caliper, however line pressure will be less.

My thought is the larger piston size on the two piston caliper requires more volume whereas the smaller pistons on the four piston caliper require more line pressure. Interestingly, Shimano brake hose compatibility charts show the use of both BH59 and BH90 on two piston calipers, i.e. the MT410 two piston caliper uses BH59, whereas the M6100, M7100, M8100, M9100 two piston calipers use BH90. This leads me to wonder if there is a slight possibility Orbea may have used BH90 hose on the H30?

How would the use of BH59 hose affect a four piston caliper's braking? I don't know, I've never done it. I'm guessing it would work okay. You would likely lose some braking performance due to the loss of line pressure from using BH59 hose, i.e. you may have to pump the brake lever a tad bit more and or, possibly squeeze the brake lever a little bit harder.

If anybody has used BH59 brake hose on a four piston caliper system, I and others would be interested in knowing what the results were.

Be safe,
Rod
 
Last edited:
Dec 1, 2022
11
2
California
WithSimone2022,

I got up this morning to do a ride and what do I see......Rain. I'm now bored at home and have an excessive amount of time to answer your question. I'm guessing others reading this post may have a similar question about BH59 brake hose on the H30. Here's the five dollar response...wahoo!

If you visit Shimano's technical webpage section, you will find compatibility charts listed for various components including brake hose. According to Shimano's brake hose compatibility chart, the MT410 brake system is NOT compatible with BH90 brake hose. The MT410 brake system is listed as compatible with BH59 brake hose.

Shimano's BH59 brake hose compatibility chart lists the SM-BH59-JK-SS (Straight fitting on each end) as being compatible with the MT410 brake system.
View attachment 105576

Shimano's BH90 brake hose compatibility chart does not show any compatibility with the MT410 brake system.
View attachment 105577

In my Shimano brake tech series, I identified that both the BH90 and BH59 brake hose have the same outer diameter. This would theoretically allow the use of BH59 and BH90 brake hose on the MT410 brake system. I have not personally worked on a H30 Rise and cannot verify which type of brake hose Orbea has installed on the H30. Shimano components are hard to source these days and manufacturers often make component changes in order to keep bike production moving.

I'm going to assume that you are inquiring about BH59 brake hose on your Rise H30 because you are thinking of upgrading to a four piston caliper such as the Deore M6120? The Deore M6120 caliper uses the same brake hose straight fittings as what comes stock on the H30. However, the Deore M6120 caliper uses BH90 brake hose.

There are two ways you can identify which brake hose you have installed on your Rise H30. Check the length of the front brake hose and see if you can find a BH59 or BH90 printing on the hose. The other way is to remove the brake hose at the brake lever and check to see which hose barb insert has been used.

The BH59 hose has an internal diameter of 2.3mm, whereas the BH90 hose has an internal diameter size of 2.1mm. Because of this, each type of hose uses a different type of hose insert. If you see a gold/brass colored insert, your Rise has BH59 brake hose. If you see a silver colored insert, your Rise has BH90 brake hose.

View attachment 105588 View attachment 105589

Note: if you remove the brake hose at the lever to see which insert you have, you will need to perform a small bleed after reconnecting the brake hose to the lever. The process is quick and easy, but does require a few simple tools, bleed cup and Shimano brake fluid.

Here's a good video explaining how to do a small bleed at the brake lever using a Shimano bleed cup.

The logical question to ask "How would switching brake hose types, i.e. use BH59 brake hose on a Deore M6120 brake caliper which is supposed to use BH90 hose, affect braking?" The short answer is, I don't know, I've never done it before.

I am not an engineer, but I do know that when I put my finger over the end of a garden hose, I can increase the pressure of the water via the finger restriction. I also know that a restriction lowers the volume of water being delivered out of the hose. It stands to reason that the larger internal diameter of the BH59 brake hose will deliver more fluid volume to the caliper, however line pressure will be less.

My thought is the larger piston size on the two piston caliper requires more volume whereas the smaller pistons on the four piston caliper require more line pressure. Interestingly, Shimano brake hose compatibility charts show the use of both BH59 and BH90 on two piston calipers, i.e. the MT410 two piston caliper uses BH59, whereas the M6100, M7100, M8100, M9100 two piston calipers use BH90. This leads me to wonder if there is a slight possibility Orbea may have used BH90 hose on the H30?

How would the use of BH59 hose affect a four piston caliper's braking? I don't know, I've never done it. I'm guessing it would work okay. You would likely lose some braking performance due to the loss of line pressure from using BH59 hose, i.e. you may have to pump the brake lever a tad bit more and or, possibly squeeze the brake lever a little bit harder.

If anybody has used BH59 brake hose on a four piston caliper system, I and others would be interested in knowing what the results were.

Be safe,
Rod
Awesome....I'll dive into it and see what works best .. appreciate the comprehensive response.
 

WestCoastRider

New Member
Feb 10, 2023
29
23
Manhattan Beach, CA
I replaced the stock Deore single piston brakes on my Rise H30 with "Shigura" setup. I ordered the Magura MT5 package from Bike24 in Europe (about $130 for calipers, lines, levers and even discs). I read up and found I needed to pull the Magura cable in through the back (banjo doesnt come off, so I snipped the olive from the lever end and went to work). I thankfully had a local mechanic who said to buy the Shimano tool to drop the motor and it was good I did as there was no way to do this without some push/pull assist underneath in the motor compartment. I also bought the park tool, really just a cable with a threaded end that worked great. I did find that the cable was prone to binding as I pulled it up the down tube, it must have been hitting another cable and or the battery. So I was pushing as much as pulling. You have to buy shimano barbs and Magura olives to make this work right.

At first I tried the Deore levers but they were pretty meh (very linear). So I picked up some XT servo levers and popped those on. Overall these brakes are almost as nice as my TRP EVO DH brakes on my (analog) enduro, I have been messing around with different sintered pads to try to improve the front brake performance. BTW, dropping the motor is a really easy job, I need to learn how to pull the battery the next time so that I can bring the Rise on a plane to my other house 900 miles away and just have a spare battery there.
 

Blinkie

Active member
Jan 11, 2020
112
86
aberdeen
Anyone successfully installed a new brake hose without having to drop motor?

Going to be fitting Cura 4 brakes was going to attempt using the rockshox barb and push/pull method. Thoughts?
 

WestCoastRider

New Member
Feb 10, 2023
29
23
Manhattan Beach, CA
I tried push-pull without removing the motor and failed. If i were to try again i would try to see if i could get that small arc of protective tubing between the rear swingarm and the bottom bracket shell. The brake tubing inside the swingarm is long and cannot really be pushed into the BB shell. It’s hard to describe but I couldn’t get this to work. But I also would have gotten stuck pulling uo the down tube, even once dropping the motor I had fo push rather than pull up the down tube to prevent binding against battery and other cabling. I know peoole have done this without dropping the motor, but I dont think I could have succeeded!
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
Anyone successfully installed a new brake hose without having to drop motor?

Going to be fitting Cura 4 brakes was going to attempt using the rockshox barb and push/pull method. Thoughts

Anyone successfully installed a new brake hose without having to drop motor?

Going to be fitting Cura 4 brakes was going to attempt using the rockshox barb and push/pull method. Thoughts?
I have not tried to replace the brake hose on a Hydro series Rise so I cannot speak for that bike series. However, for the carbon Rise there have been many people I know of who have replaced the brake hose without dropping the motor.

In order to be successful, you need to do a little prep beforehand. The trick is to use the machine screw method which I detailed in the initial posting on this thread.

Visit your local hardware store. Take a small piece of Shimano BH90 brake hose with you. Buy a fine thread machine screw of approximately 1.5 inch/38mm in length which will thread into the brake hose. You want the threaded fit to be firm and not easily threaded.

There is a lot of friction where the brake hose travels along the motor and out of the top of the bottom bracket shell. You'll want to divide the hose pulling process into two phases. The rear chain stay is phase one. The frame is phase two.
Screenshot 2023-02-15 06.05.19.jpg



Start at the rear caliper by cutting the brake hose. Thread one end of the machine screw halfway into the "Old" hose on your Rise. Cut the head off of the machine screw. Thread the new replacement brake hose onto the other end of the screw. Make sure both hoses are threaded tightly together so that there is no gap or lip that can hang up somewhere on the frame. You want the connection where the two hoses meet to be smooth with no protuberances (Fancy word).

1676479814215.png


Examine the non-drive side (Left) black rubber rear brake hose support tube where it exits the top of the bottom bracket shell and where it enters the rear chain stay. Carefully separate the speed sensor wire from the black rubber support tube. The sensor wire is held in place by friction clips which are molded into the support tube.

Phase One:
Loosen and remove the screw which holds the black rubber clamp located on the inside edge of the left, non drive side chain stay. Thread the small screw back into the chain stay so you don't loose it. Also, make sure that when you pull the new hose, it goes through the rubber clamp.

Insure the speed sensor wire has been separated from the black rubber support tube. Coat the new hose and old hose with silicone lubricant so that the hose will slide easier. Pull up on the black rubber hose support tube using one hand. The tube is held in place by friction and will lift out of the chain stay and the top of the bottom bracket shell. With your other hand, begin feeding the old brake hose into the chain stay. As you do this, keep lifting up on the support tube. You will be gradually be able to gain enough slack in the support tube so that you can access the brake hose with your fingers and begin pulling the remainder of the old and new brake hose through the chain stay.

Insure you have enough slack so that you can connect the brake hose to the caliper. You also don't want excessive slack in the hose. This may cause the brake hose to rub on the wheel spokes. Install the brake hose. Fit the brake hose clamp in place and tighten. The brake hose clamp will help prevent inadvertently removing slack from the brake hose at the caliper when you begin the phase two portion.

Phase Two: It helps to have a buddy assist you with feeding and pulling the brake hose. It is also possible to do it by yourself. Begin feeding the old brake hose through the black rubber support tube and into the top of the bottom bracket/motor mount shell. Do not install/insert the black rubber support tube in it's place. Keep it back a distance as you feed the brake hose. If it's inserted into the ports, it will cause a lot of friction during the pull process. As you feed the hose into the bottom bracket shell, begin pulling the hose out of the head tube. The process is simple, slide the support tube back, feed the hose, pull the hose at the head tube. Keep feeding the brake hose into the shell and pulling the hose out of the head tube until the new hose has taken the place of the old hose. Cut the new brake hose to the appropriate length, connect it to the brake lever, and begin the brake bleeding process.

Note:
Occasionally during your ownership of the Rise, you do want to drop the motor and check your wiring harness for chaffing. The Carbon Rise does not have any separate routing channels in the frame for cables, hoses and wiring harness They are all squeezed together through the same tight area. Because of this, things tend to rub and chafe. This is especially so where the down tube meets the motor.

In the picture below, my Rise wiring harness has about 2,300 miles on it. Note the rub through of the protective sheathing which was caused by contact with the brake hose and cables. I used a cloth based electrical friction tape to repair the harness sheathing. Also note that several of the wires that comprise the harness are very thin and can be easily broken. If they break your bike will throw a fault code and stop working. It pays to occasionally drop the motor and give things a check.

IMG_2257.JPG


I hope all of this helps you and the other forum users out.

Be safe,
Rod
 

Blinkie

Active member
Jan 11, 2020
112
86
aberdeen
I have not tried to replace the brake hose on a Hydro series Rise so I cannot speak for that bike series. However, for the carbon Rise there have been many people I know of who have replaced the brake hose without dropping the motor.

In order to be successful, you need to do a little prep beforehand. The trick is to use the machine screw method which I detailed in the initial posting on this thread.

Visit your local hardware store. Take a small piece of Shimano BH90 brake hose with you. Buy a fine thread machine screw of approximately 1.5 inch/38mm in length which will thread into the brake hose. You want the threaded fit to be firm and not easily threaded.

There is a lot of friction where the brake hose travels along the motor and out of the top of the bottom bracket shell. You'll want to divide the hose pulling process into two phases. The rear chain stay is phase one. The frame is phase two.
View attachment 106790


Start at the rear caliper by cutting the brake hose. Thread one end of the machine screw halfway into the "Old" hose on your Rise. Cut the head off of the machine screw. Thread the new replacement brake hose onto the other end of the screw. Make sure both hoses are threaded tightly together so that there is no gap or lip that can hang up somewhere on the frame. You want the connection where the two hoses meet to be smooth with no protuberances (Fancy word).

View attachment 106792

Examine the non-drive side (Left) black rubber rear brake hose support tube where it exits the top of the bottom bracket shell and where it enters the rear chain stay. Carefully separate the speed sensor wire from the black rubber support tube. The sensor wire is held in place by friction clips which are molded into the support tube.

Phase One:
Loosen and remove the screw which holds the black rubber clamp located on the inside edge of the left, non drive side chain stay. Thread the small screw back into the chain stay so you don't loose it. Also, make sure that when you pull the new hose, it goes through the rubber clamp.

Insure the speed sensor wire has been separated from the black rubber support tube. Coat the new hose and old hose with silicone lubricant so that the hose will slide easier. Pull up on the black rubber hose support tube using one hand. The tube is held in place by friction and will lift out of the chain stay and the top of the bottom bracket shell. With your other hand, begin feeding the old brake hose into the chain stay. As you do this, keep lifting up on the support tube. You will be gradually be able to gain enough slack in the support tube so that you can access the brake hose with your fingers and begin pulling the remainder of the old and new brake hose through the chain stay.

Insure you have enough slack so that you can connect the brake hose to the caliper. You also don't want excessive slack in the hose. This may cause the brake hose to rub on the wheel spokes. Install the brake hose. Fit the brake hose clamp in place and tighten. The brake hose clamp will help prevent inadvertently removing slack from the brake hose at the caliper when you begin the phase two portion.

Phase Two: It helps to have a buddy assist you with feeding and pulling the brake hose. It is also possible to do it by yourself. Begin feeding the old brake hose through the black rubber support tube and into the top of the bottom bracket/motor mount shell. Do not install/insert the black rubber support tube in it's place. Keep it back a distance as you feed the brake hose. If it's inserted into the ports, it will cause a lot of friction during the pull process. As you feed the hose into the bottom bracket shell, begin pulling the hose out of the head tube. The process is simple, slide the support tube back, feed the hose, pull the hose at the head tube. Keep feeding the brake hose into the shell and pulling the hose out of the head tube until the new hose has taken the place of the old hose. Cut the new brake hose to the appropriate length, connect it to the brake lever, and begin the brake bleeding process.

Note:
Occasionally during your ownership of the Rise, you do want to drop the motor and check your wiring harness for chaffing. The Carbon Rise does not have any separate routing channels in the frame for cables, hoses and wiring harness They are all squeezed together through the same tight area. Because of this, things tend to rub and chafe. This is especially so where the down tube meets the motor.

In the picture below, my Rise wiring harness has about 2,300 miles on it. Note the rub through of the protective sheathing which was caused by contact with the brake hose and cables. I used a cloth based electrical friction tape to repair the harness sheathing. Also note that several of the wires that comprise the harness are very thin and can be easily broken. If they break your bike will throw a fault code and stop working. It pays to occasionally drop the motor and give things a check.

View attachment 106783

I hope all of this helps you and the other forum users out.

Be safe,
Rod
600x600-96853-pb105537.jpg
Thanks for that, I've got he Rockshox barb for attaching the hoses together. Probably best I hide the beers away when I start this.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
View attachment 106793
Thanks for that, I've got he Rockshox barb for attaching the hoses together. Probably best I hide the beers away when I start this.
Sir, on the contrary, I've found copious amounts of beer helps the process. If not successful with the brake hose, you will have managed a mellow glow from the alcohol. This helps the bad medicine go away....

One last suggestion. If you don't have one already, consider buying Park Tool's LRT-2 lock ring tool. It's used to remove the chain ring lock ring nut on the EP8 motor. If the brake hoses should separate during the process, you won't be dead in the water with no bike while waiting to source the tool. Should the hoses separate, you'll be able to drop the motor and route the hoses.

Note: Five of the six bolts motor mounting bolts can be easily removed. The sixth bolt is partially obstructed by the chainring and cannot be easily removed without forcing the bolt past the chainring. This tends to scratch the bolt's black coating. It's easier just to remove the crank arm, chainring and the chain guide. You'll then have easy access to the bolt. You need the lock ring tool to remove the chain ring. It's not a difficult process to drop the motor. It takes me about five minutes. I've posted instructions on how to drop the motor in various threads on the Orbea Forum.



Screenshot 2023-02-15 09.40.04.jpg


Screenshot 2023-02-15 09.41.50.jpg
 

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