Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service
- Thread starter Rod B.
- Start date
Hi - I am about carryout a full service on my 6 month old Orbea Rise and your post is really helpful.
One thing I am concerned about is using loctite 638 on the splines of the linkage axle - does this not make it very difficult to disassemble for future services?
Any advise on how to disassemble after using Loctite 638 would be welcome.
One thing I am concerned about is using loctite 638 on the splines of the linkage axle - does this not make it very difficult to disassemble for future services?
Any advise on how to disassemble after using Loctite 638 would be welcome.
Rod B.
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #64
Alan,
One of the issues which Rise owners are experiencing after a period of use is the loosening of the linkage arms on the splined upper pivot axle. This is attributed to wear occurring between the splined aluminum upper axle and splined aluminum interface on each linkage arm.
When the linkage arms and axle spline develop wear, they begin to loosen up on the upper pivot axle splines. Creaking and or, play will develop in the rear end and pivot assembly. You will know when loosening has occurred, because either a creak will develop and or, you will feel the rear end on the bike flex sideways and sway a bit when you hit a berm or turn.
If the loosening of the linkage arms is left unattended via lack of maintenance, excessive wear will develop on the aluminum axle splines and or the splined interface on each linkage arm. This wear exacerbates the creaking/flexing problem even further and eventually the axle and or linkage arms will need to be replaced.
To prevent the above from occurring, a preventative maintenance via cleaning and greasing of the upper pivot axle assembly and the use of a cylindrical retaining compound such as Loctite 638 is vitally important. From personal experience I can tell you, Loctite 638, dead nuts, 100%, stops the linkage arms from moving.
Note: Loctite 638 is made so that parts which have been assembled using Loctite 638, can be disassembled at a later date. Loctite 638 was designed for loose fitting cylindrical parts which require maximum holding power. However, Loctite 638 should not be confused with permanent thread lockers such as Loctite red which makes bolt removal difficult.
The Rise Blue Paper (Owner's Manual) specifies that a cylindrical retaining compound must be used. However, the Rise Blue Paper does not specify the type of retaining compound to be used.
For this information, I went to the Orbea Occam Blue Paper. The Occam shares the same linkage design as the Rise. The Occam Blue Paper specifies that Loctite 638 be used on the upper pivot axle splines.
Regarding disassembling of the upper linkage after use of Loctite 638. I've found that the BFRM tool works best. Yep, Big F'n Rubber Mallet......All joking aside, I like to use a soft black rubber mallet so it won't damage or mar the finish on the linkage arms during disaasembly.
Tekton 16 oz. soft rubber mallet, $13 on Amazon.
Follow all the linkage removal steps I've listed above in regards to servicing the upper pivot axle. Disassemble the linkage until just the linkage arms on the upper pivot axle remain. Remove the pinch bold screw on the drive side (Right) linkage arm. Take the soft rubber mallet and begin tapping the inside edge of the drive side linkage arm. You may have to give the linkage arm a few good hits to get the linkage arm to loosen up on the axle splines. Once the linkage arm has been removed, follow the cleaning procedures, grease, reassemble using Loctite 638 and set correct linkage arm pre-load using Orbea's purple preload tool which your bike came with.
NOTE: I do not remove the non-drive side (Left) linkage arm from the axle. There's no reason to remove the right linkage arm from the axle. I merely clean the linkage arm/axle and prepare it for reassembly. I would only remove the right linkage arm from the axle if it looked like the arm had been moving on the axle and requires reseating with Loctite 638.
I hope the above has helped. If you have any further questions, please ask.
Cheers.....
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ebsocalmtb
Active member
nice post Rod. 638 is a must have for any garage workshop and I agree, it's the perfect usage for it. I honestly would have glossed right over that in the orbea bluepaper... I don't commonly use 638 unless I'm struggling with a bearing or something that i'm un-sure of. Good reminder to RTFM and use the ole gray matter.
Rod
Thanks for such quick detailed response, I now have the confidence to proceed with the service and the use of loctite 638.
Thanks again
Alan
As a 300lb super clyde, 638 is magic. My Rise pivot linkage loosened after almost every ride. 5 times in 8 rides. Since applying loctite 638, and 20+ rides and about 500 miles, there is still zero play in the linkage.
Ordered the 638 last night, waiting for delivery.
Rod
Had a look at my upper linkage prior to commencing servicing the upper linkages next week and noted the upper axle has been installed with the axle threads facing the left side. Is it just a straight forward matter that when I reassemble to change to the right side - there is nothing different in the left and right rocker arms that would prevent this?
Thanks Alan
Rod B.
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #71
Alan,
It's just a 180 degree flip of the threaded side of the upper axle to the right, drive side of the bike. Everything else stays exactly the same.
My bike also came with the threaded side of the upper axle mounted on the left side. Personally, I don't think it matters, however the Orbea Rise Blue Paper calls for it to be on the right, drive side. If the manual says right side, then right side it is.
I had a beautiful ride early this morning in the Santa Ana mountains of Orange County, California. I rode up to Old Camp and took the Luge trail back down. Conditions were perfect. I rode up above the clouds and it looked like an ocean. The view was incredible. The Luge, which resembles a bob sled run, is a very fast downhill flow trail.
The Luge:
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Did my Loctite 638 treatment today. I had to tighten up linkage every third ride and im pretty lightweight. Hope it sort out the issue.
Hi, I used loctite 638 the last time I servived the upper linkage, when I came to disassemble the linkage arms from the upper linkage I found it impossible so wrote to Orbea for their advise.
Orbea advised me to screw in the preload tool then back it out a couple of threads and hit it with a rubber mallet to drive out the axle.
I have not got round to trying this yet, but thought it was worth sharing their advise.
Hope this proves useful to you in the future.
Regards Alan
I was thinking about it when adding it. I believe the method orbea said “should” work since it probably needs a hit to release the bond.
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
One thing I'd add to these excellent instructions is to make sure to get as much of the degreaser or WD-40 out of your bearings before you re-grease them. Otherwise, the new grease will rapidly deteriorate. Set the bike on its side to led the degreaser fully drain out. Be patient. Then do the other side. In general, if I'm tearing apart suspension linkages and doing anything more than re-torquing components, I'm replacing the bearings anyway. For the cost of a few bearings, it's usually worth just replacing them rather than regreasing them.
Rod B.
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #76
Alan, I would be extremely cautious using Orbea's advice in regards to backing out the preload tool a few threads and using it as a strike point to drive out the axle. I've never done this method, it may work well. I'm concerned with this advice. As you know, the threads on the pre-load tool and the axle are both aluminum and won't tolerate a lot of force. It's possible the threads on the pre-load tool or axle may become damaged. Regardless, both parts can be replaced, however you may be out of some ride time waiting for the parts to arrive from Spain.
I've found the trick to separating the linkage arms from the axle is to make multiple strikes using a soft rubber mallet. You want to strike the inside of the linkage arm hard near it's base where the linkage arm and axle meet and then a little bit softer on the outer end of the linkage arm. The trick is to walk the strikes in a rocking back and forth style across the linkage arm so that the 638 bond will loosen and the arm will separate from the axle.
Note, when I service the upper pivot assembly, I typically only remove the right, drive side, linkage arm from the axle. I never remove the left, non-drive side linkage arm from the axle. There isn't a need to do this unless the left arm looks like it has been moving on the axle.
Thanks for the advise, will try your method, as anything posted from Orbea seems to take for ever..
Regards
Alan
Rod
I noticed on your upper linkage axle and bearing article that the Rise blue paper states 10Nm for the upper axle retaining screws and the Occam states 15 Nm for the same linkage, confusing/conflicting information, what are your thoughts?
Alan
I'm a heavy rider and 638 worked for me. The linkage hasn't loosened up since, while before application it loosened during every ride.
Rod B.
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #81
Originally, both the Occam and the Rise Blue Papers listed the pinch bolt torque setting as 15Nm. The Rise Blue Paper was later amended to reflect a 10nm torque setting. There have been several amendments to the Rise Blue Paper since the bike was first introduced. The torque change was brought to my attention by another forum user and I changed the diagrams to reflect the change. Orbea did not give a justification for the change. It's possible the 15Nm setting was overly stretching the bolt or possibly the linkage arm where it clinches the axle. It could be the people at Orbea who prepare the Blue Papers had a blow out office party with lots of pints consumed. If I get to vote, I'm voting on the pints consumed option. It makes sense....I crack myself up...
I'm not be able to loosen the upper axle 
I used a rubber mallet and hit it with a strength (not the most) in the left or right side but it was really impossible. Neither using the mallet nor using one arm to loosen it or applying heat. Anybody used the preload tool to loosen it?
Bearings are completly seized in the axle after 700km. The bearings of this part are pretty exposed to dust and water. Some cap or something would be a better design. The orange track of the bearing is quite visible in the photo.
I used a rubber mallet and hit it with a strength (not the most) in the left or right side but it was really impossible. Neither using the mallet nor using one arm to loosen it or applying heat. Anybody used the preload tool to loosen it? Bearings are completly seized in the axle after 700km. The bearings of this part are pretty exposed to dust and water. Some cap or something would be a better design. The orange track of the bearing is quite visible in the photo.
Forgive me if you've already done this but pic shows yoke still installed. First Remove Rear Shock, Seat Stay bolts, and Shock Yoke . Loosen Pinch Bolts to Main Pivot. Linkage arm to Main Axle splines are extremely loose fitting from factory. If 638 has been installed you could possibly use Preload tool threaded half way in then hit with mallet. Or hit rear (near Seat stay) of one arm in then out to create the leverage to break the 638 free. On my 18' Rallon when I upgraded the linkage it was so tight to took almost 45minutes of pushing and pulling the arm in and out to get it off the axle.....and i'm usually one of the strongest in the roomI'm not be able to loosen the upper axle
Bearings are completly seized in the axle after 700km. The bearings of this part are pretty exposed to dust and water. Some cap or something would be a better design. The orange track of the bearing is quite visible in the photo. View attachment 96002
Rod B.
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #86
Jene,I'm not be able to loosen the upper axle
Bearings are completly seized in the axle after 700km. The bearings of this part are pretty exposed to dust and water. Some cap or something would be a better design. The orange track of the bearing is quite visible in the photo. View attachment 96002
Follow BiGJZ74's advice. If the rear shock extender yoke hasn't been removed, you must first remove it before you can separate the linkage arms from the splined axle.
You want to rock the linkage arm free by hitting it with a soft rubber mallet. Hit the linkage arm at the end and then near where it connects to the axle. Keep doing this by making repeat hits back and forth in a rocking manner to get the linkage arm to separate from the axle.
In the upper pivot bearings have frozen, you may want to consider having a new upper pivot axle and bearing kit on hand before you begin disassembly of the bike. It takes about two to three weeks to get parts from Orbea. If the upper pivot bearings have frozen, there will be a strong possibility the splined aluminum axle, where it rides on the pivot bearings, may be scored and damaged.
If the repeated hits do not work, you may want to try and apply a little bit of heat to the linkage arm. You want to avoid using a flame which will damage the linkage arm finish and or the aluminum. I would instead take a table lamp or a shop light bulb and rest the lit light bulb against the linkage arm. Leave it resting against the linkage arm for about 10 minutes. This will warm the linkage arm, soften any retainer compound and cause the aluminum to expand a bit which may help you to loosen the linkage arm when you hit it.
Please let the group know how you make out.
I read it as Jene is having trouble removing the axle, not the linkage arms?
Jene - I have a stuck pivot axle and I've bought (but not yet tried) some penetrant oil at Rod's suggestion. Next time I have the linkage arms off I am going to try this. At this stage my pivot is still working ok.
Guys, sorry for not sharing a photo previous to mount it. I was able to disassemble arms but the axle was impossible, really tight even using a heater. Perhaps I could mount one of the arms and hit it at the end to try to loose the axle as you suggest.
Which is that penetrant oil @nello??
Which is that penetrant oil @nello??
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Rod B.
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #89
Neilo, how's it going? I was wondering how you made out with that axle.
Jene, I'm sorry, I misread your question and thought it was the linkage arms which you could not get off. I've answered your question regarding what I recommended to Neilo below.
The tolerance between the splined upper axle and the frame's pivot bearings is tight. The pivot bearings on the Rise are made of steel, whereas the splined axle is made of anodized aluminum. When you have two dissimilar metals such as Steel and Aluminum in contact with each other and moisture is introduced, galvanic corrosion can occur. Galvanic corrosion is where one metal will begin pulling electrons from the other metal and thus weakening the lesser "Noble" metal. With enough time, the two metals will weld themselves together or cause a part to become difficult to remove.
This is why it's important to keep the Rises' bearings and splined axle interface greased. Grease will act as an inhibitor/insulator and prevent the galvanic corrosion from occurring.
When I have two metals that are stuck together, I like to use a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or similar. WD-40 also works but it's not quite as effective. The penetrating oil will work it's way into the interface where the axle and bearings meet and help to soften/break up the corrosion. You want to spray the penetrant and let it soak in for an hour or so. You want to give things a really good soaking.
If corrosion has occurred, your going to need to hit the axle fairly hard to break it loose. The possibility of deforming the axle exists and you may want to have a new axle on hand. You don't want to be sitting on the sidelines waiting several weeks for a new axle to arrive. I would use a ballpeen hammer and a soft wood block placed on the end of the non-threaded side of the axle. Strike the block of wood firmly to drive the axle out of the bearings. Keep on spraying the axle with the penetrating oil as you are hitting the block. The striking motion will help work the oil between the bearings and axle and the axle will come out.
If the force of the required blow becomes too much and you fear damaging the carbon frame with heavy strikes, you should consider purchasing a bearing press/puller kit such as this one found on Amazon USA. On one side of the axle, you will need to fabricate a thin walled sleeve, copper pipe, etc., that will fit over the end of the axle spline and rests only on the pivot bearing and not the frame. Using the bearing press, you can then drive the axle out of the bearings.
Please let me know how you make out.
Richridesmtb
Member
I'm going to go one step further than Rod and say to tip your bike on its side so the pivot bearing is level and spray lots of penetrating fluid so it pools at the interface of the axle and the bearing. Let it sit for half a day and then flip it over and do the other side. Letting the fluid soak in can help you avoid destroying the axle or damaging your frame.
Another trick will be to grab some dry ice pellets and jam them down the hollow centre of the axle before hitting it out. Doing all this may be worth it to avoid damage.
Another trick will be to grab some dry ice pellets and jam them down the hollow centre of the axle before hitting it out. Doing all this may be worth it to avoid damage.
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