Orbea rise m20 headset bearings

[Vwrise]

Had to order replacement headset bearings , had a knocking noise from the cockpit on my last ride .
All bolts tight up front but there is play when I ply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth .
anybody else had to replace there bearings or anything for that matter on their rise ?

 

[Rod B.]

Had to order replacement headset bearings , had a knocking noise from the cockpit on my last ride .
All bolts tight up front but there is play when I ply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth .
anybody else had to replace there bearings or anything for that matter on their rise ?

Vwrise, what you describe sounds exactly like a loose headset. You can easily adjust the headset and take all the play out of the bearings so there isn't any knocking or looseness in the headset.

Over time, headset bearings wear and the headset preload needs to be adjusted. Headset bearings also need to be occasionally cleaned and lubricated. Rarely do headset bearings go bad unless they are corroded and rusted out or the bearings become sloppy from hammering them, i.e. rock gardens. I believe the Acros headset bearings on your Rise M20 are made out of stainless steel and shouldn't be corroded this soon.

As a side note, if you find you cannot tighten the headset and get a proper headset adjustment, then I would suggest you take the stem top cap off and look inside the stem to see if the fork tube is flush with the top of the stem. The fork tube should be about 3 mm below the top of the stem. It should not be flush with the top of the stem. If the fork tube is flush with the top of the stem, it will prevent you from obtaining a proper headset preload. If the fork tube is flush with the stem, buy a small 3-4mm stem spacer. Remove the stem and install the spacer on the fork tube. Put your stem back on and proceed with adjusting the headset preload as shown in the video.

Below is a video that explains how to adjust the headset.

 

[neilo]

I had to disassemble and grease my headset when it was fairly new, not enough grease from the factory. Are you sure that play isn't just the brake pads moving a little as you rock it back and forward? Try to feel for play without using the brakes if you can.

 

[Rod B.]

Neilo, I think you are right. I assumed Vwrise had narrowed the noise down to the headset making the noise. However, I recall my M20 came with the two piston Deore brake calipers which had a cotter key holding the brake pads in place instead of a steel pin. When I would ride, the brakes would make a knocking noise caused by the brake pads moving about on the cotter key. It was really irritating. I eventually replaced the calipers with four piston XT calipers. I recall a post of this forum where a person bought a tap and threaded the hole on the Deore two piston caliper so it will accept a steel guide pin.

 

[RustyIron]

I had to disassemble and grease my headset when it was fairly new, not enough grease from the factory. Are you sure that play isn't just the brake pads moving a little as you rock it back and forward? Try to feel for play without using the brakes if you can.

Right on. I like to clean/grease the headset bearings at least twice a year. It's easy for water to get up there and aid corrosion.

The way to check for play in the headset is to use your hand to FEEL for it. While sitting on the bike, take your right and and grasp the bottom of the headset tube and the fork crown. Apply the brake with your left hand. Rock the bike back and forth while feeling for movement at the junction of the head tube and fork. Now repeat, with your right hand at the top of the headset tube and the stem. Your hand will be able to feel any movement whatsoever. If you feel movement, tighten the preload.

To the original question, I've replaced headsets as a result of corrosion and general grumbliness. As the bearing wears and gets beat up, you can feel "grumbliness" in the bearings (using your right hand on the headset tube/steer tube). It's microscopic pitting in the bearing surfaces. But I've never had a headset bearing fail so badly that it caused play that couldn't be adjusted out.

 

[Vwrise]

Right on. I like to clean/grease the headset bearings at least twice a year. It's easy for water to get up there and aid corrosion.

The way to check for play in the headset is to use your hand to FEEL for it. While sitting on the bike, take your right and and grasp the bottom of the headset tube and the fork crown. Apply the brake with your left hand. Rock the bike back and forth while feeling for movement at the junction of the head tube and fork. Now repeat, with your right hand at the top of the headset tube and the stem. Your hand will be able to feel any movement whatsoever. If you feel movement, tighten the preload.

To the original question, I've replaced headsets as a result of corrosion and general grumbliness. As the bearing wears and gets beat up, you can feel "grumbliness" in the bearings (using your right hand on the headset tube/steer tube). It's microscopic pitting in the bearing surfaces. But I've never had a headset bearing fail so badly that it caused play that couldn't be adjusted out.

Thanks for

 

[Vwrise]

Thanks guys for your advice , I’ve dropped it off at my local bike shop for them to sort it.
I will let you know there findings .

 

[Vwrise]

Bike just been collected from LBS, and there inspection found a lower bearing had come apart .
Disappointed really on this giving up after 6 months of use .
So new bearing fitted and I’ll be out tomorrow on the trails to test it out .
Fingers crossed it’s sorted

 

[Shjay]

The bearings are shit on the Rise mine were all rusty & fell apart after a short term & don’t jet wash replaced with Chris King headset

 

[Tubby G]

Had to replace my partners headset and hub bearings after four / five months of UK winter riding

 

[Vwrise]

The bearings are shit on the Rise mine were all rusty & fell apart after a short term & don’t jet wash replaced with Chris King headset

Not good is it, inferior parts not up to the job

 

[XCDC]

We have 2 M10’s in the house and both headsets have died after a 5 or 6 rides in winter. The stock bearings are junk and have now been replaced with Hope stainless headsets instead.

 

[SiDobsFig]

I had a Specialized Enduro (MTB) and the Wales Weather killed them quick. Went for hope replacement headset. 4 years on-never taken apart. Bought EMTB with Hope already fitted and change my Hardtail over also. Agree with XCDC, just fit them once and they will last.

 

[CrunchBytes]

We have 2 M10’s in the house and both headsets have died after a 5 or 6 rides in winter. The stock bearings are junk and have now been replaced with Hope stainless headsets instead.

Love Hope! What model/part nos did you get, please? My lower head bearing on my M20 has fallen apart after 6 months!

 

[locoboy]

I'm doing this job today!
I've just xome on here to see if there is anything different about dropping the fork on the rise compared to any non EMTB? I'm happy doing this on standard bikes.
I bought my bike in January and have only done 120 miles on it due to having a back injury shortly after buying it.
Last time I got it down off the rack in the garage it was seized! It's done 4 rides and had 4 washes (no jet wash! ) junk bearings or what!!
I may just hrease this one up and put it back in, I've got surgery this coming week on the back and if I'm going to be riding again then I'll probably replace the bearings with better quality ones, if I'm not going to be riding again then there'll be a 120 mile old Rise for sale with freshly greased headset bearings lol

 

[XCDC]

Love Hope! What model/part nos did you get, please? My lower head bearing on my M20 has fallen apart after 6 months!

you’ll be wanting a Type J for the bottom and a HSC8 (if memory serves) for the top.

 

[locoboy]

you’ll be wanting a Type J for the bottom and a HSC8 (if memory serves) for the top.

Did that get rid of the weird rubber sleeve seal tat sits inside and on top of the top bearing?
Thanks

 

[locoboy]

120 miles, 4 rides and 4 washes and it was stuck, pulled them out popped the seals off, washed out with solvent, re greased and back in.
I think Orbea need to have a word with their headset bearing supplier, false claims or what!

 

[Rod B.]

I'm doing this job today!
I've just xome on here to see if there is anything different about dropping the fork on the rise compared to any non EMTB? I'm happy doing this on standard bikes.
I bought my bike in January and have only done 120 miles on it due to having a back injury shortly after buying it.
Last time I got it down off the rack in the garage it was seized! It's done 4 rides and had 4 washes (no jet wash! ) junk bearings or what!!
I may just hrease this one up and put it back in, I've got surgery this coming week on the back and if I'm going to be riding again then I'll probably replace the bearings with better quality ones, if I'm not going to be riding again then there'll be a 120 mile old Rise for sale with freshly greased headset bearings lol

Love Hope! What model/part nos did you get, please? My lower head bearing on my M20 has fallen apart after 6 months!

CrunchBytes,
The Rise uses an “Integrated” headset, meaning the bearing cups are built into the frame. Hope sells an integrated headset.

The upper headset bearing on the Rise is an IS42 and the lower headset bearing is an IS52. On page 45 of the Rise Blue Paper you can find detailed specifications on the headset.

Make sure the bearings you get are stainless steel and not plain steel. The stainless will hold up to moisture and corrosion a bit longer.

 

[XCDC]

Did that get rid of the weird rubber sleeve seal tat sits inside and on top of the top bearing?
Thanks

Yes, it’s a set to replace everything.

 

[Tubby G]

Does anyone else struggle to tighten the headset on the Rise so it’s spot on perfect ?

I seem to be adjusting the top cap literally mm at a time, 1mm too much and the headset is too tight, 1mm too little and I have slight play when rocking back n forth. I never seem to be able to get it just right

 

[CrunchBytes]

Does anyone else struggle to tighten the headset on the Rise so it’s spot on perfect ?

I seem to be adjusting the top cap literally mm at a time, 1mm too much and the headset is too tight, 1mm too little and I have slight play when rocking back n forth. I never seem to be able to get it just right

Make sure you have enough space (ie, a spacer) between the top of stem and the top cap. I’ve made that mistake before!

 

[Tubby G]

Make sure you have enough space (ie, a spacer) between the top of stem and the top cap. I’ve made that mistake before!

I have the space, around 5mm. Not sure what the issue is

 

[Shjay]

What headset? The original one? I binned mine & replaced with CK headset & never had another issue

 

[Tubby G]

What headset? The original one? I binned mine & replaced with CK headset & never had another issue

It’s about the third time I’ve changed the bearings since new, I buy them from Kinetic Bike Bearings. Winter riding just seems to destroy them. They’re stainless steel enduro bearings and I use a small amount of grease when fitting them.

Changed them earlier and now I just can’t eliminate the slight movement when rocking back and forth with the front brake on. If I tighten the top cap literally another mm, the movement stops but it all feels too tight.

I’ve been tightening and undoing the bolts and top cap all afternoon, trying to get it right. It shouldn’t be this painful

 

[Tubby G]

Wow. I feel like such a donut! I’ve sussed it. I forgot the top bearing has a thin rubber insert that sits on top of the bearing. When I removed the old bearings I chucked them in the trash without removing this rubber insert first. I’ve dug it out of the trash and will fit it back on now

 

[Tubby G]

Yep, problem solved. That rubber insert acts as a spacer between the bearing and the integrated headset cup. Without it installed I was getting that slight movement which I couldn’t eliminate.

Jeez I’ve just wasted about two hours of my life over that!

 

[CrunchBytes]

Yep, problem solved. That rubber insert acts as a spacer between the bearing and the integrated headset cup. Without it installed I was getting that slight movement which I couldn’t eliminate.

Jeez I’ve just wasted about two hours of my life over that!

And you’ll now never ever forget that part again We’ve all had things like that happen to us!

 

[Rod B.]

Does anyone else struggle to tighten the headset on the Rise so it’s spot on perfect ?

I seem to be adjusting the top cap literally mm at a time, 1mm too much and the headset is too tight, 1mm too little and I have slight play when rocking back n forth. I never seem to be able to get it just right

Tubby,

Is this a new headset? I've found that sometimes a new headset will feel too tight due to new bearing tolerances, lower crown seal and top seal friction, etc. Everything may need to break in a little bit. I'd suggest running the headset tight for one ride. Give things a good shake up. After doing so, then try resetting your headset.

If your headset is old, it may be worn out, i.e. the headset ball bearings and race are flattening out a bit. When you tighten the headset up, the bearings are starting to bind, thus the "Too tight" headset feel. The headset may need replacing.

A little bit of debris will also cause adjustment issues for an older headset. Small granules of sand/crud can throw off the adjustment. You may want to completely strip the headset apart:

Remove the race cups from the frame's head tube. Clean the head tube top to bottom with alcohol and a clean rag. Apply a light coating of grease to the top and bottom head tube cup areas (Avoids creaking).

Clean the fork lower crown seal area and apply a light coating of grease.

Clean the top headset seal and all the upper headset hardware. Apply a light coating of grease to the upper seal and appropriate hardware.

Gently remove the rubber seals from the upper and lower bearings. Using a pressure spray cleaner, i.e. Brake Clean, remove the old grease from the bearings. Repack the bearings "Lightly" with grease and insert the rubber seals. Use a waterproof grease which is suitable for UK's wet environment. Note, do not overpack the bearings with grease, the bearings don't need much and it's easy to overpack the bearings.

Doing the above will remove all crud and debris from the headset area. This will allow you to now get an exact headset adjustment.

I hope you doing well brother and this all helps a bit.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[Tubby G]

Tubby,

Is this a new headset? I've found that sometimes a new headset will feel too tight due to new bearing tolerances, lower crown seal and top seal friction, etc. Everything may need to break in a little bit. I'd suggest running the headset tight for one ride. Give things a good shake up. After doing so, then try resetting your headset.

If your headset is old, it may be worn out, i.e. the headset ball bearings and race are flattening out a bit. When you tighten the headset up, the bearings are starting to bind, thus the "Too tight" headset feel. The headset may need replacing.

A little bit of debris will also cause adjustment issues for an older headset. Small granules of sand/crud can throw off the adjustment. You may want to completely strip the headset apart:

Remove the race cups from the frame's head tube. Clean the head tube top to bottom with alcohol and a clean rag. Apply a light coating of grease to the top and bottom head tube cup areas (Avoids creaking).

Clean the fork lower crown seal area and apply a light coating of grease.

Clean the top headset seal and all the upper headset hardware. Apply a light coating of grease to the upper seal and appropriate hardware.

Gently remove the rubber seals from the upper and lower bearings. Using a pressure spray cleaner, i.e. Brake Clean, remove the old grease from the bearings. Repack the bearings "Lightly" with grease and insert the rubber seals. Use a waterproof grease which is suitable for UK's wet environment. Note, do not overpack the bearings with grease, the bearings don't need much and it's easy to overpack the bearings.

Doing the above will remove all crud and debris from the headset area. This will allow you to now get an exact headset adjustment.

I hope you doing well brother and this all helps a bit.

Be safe,
Rod

Thanks for your detailed reply as always Rod. Luckily I solved the problem the same afternoon I posted that, all documented above ^

It was brand new bearings I was fitting. I’d forgotten to remove the rubber insert from the old bearings that sits on top of the upper bearings so without that installed I was getting that slight rocking sensation when testing with the front brake on.