New road wheels- gears slipping

[Albagord]

Bought a set of wheels and tyres for road purposes so I cut the drag and decrease use of battery power. Rear wheel is a Hope wheel and built with a hub for eMTB purposes. Only found out that brands of hubs can vary by a couple of millimetres so will have to adjust mech and cable each time I swop out the wheels as gears are slipping. Any suggestions to avoid this fiddly operation?

 

[deksawyer]

Why did you bother?

The decrease in rolling resistance and extra battery life will be minimal. It would've been more sensible to buy a second battery.

 

[p3eps]

I still have my old Stumpjumper, which I occasionally ride in summer (and often loan to my friends who want to ride with me)... but mainly use on a Wahoo Kickr over winter.
When on the Kickr, the gears slip and need re-indexed - probably the same reason - a slight offset.

I found the best solution was to buy an AXS derailleur - and then I can use the Micro Adjust in the app to set it to "31" (the furthest offset) when on the Kickr, and "16" (middle setting) when it has the back wheel on. Works great, and adjusted in about 20 seconds.

 

[Stihldog]

I thought of doing this for my Hardtail. I purchased the HT with the intention to ride road and tame trails. But then I installed aggressive tires for the DH trails on our mountain.

I think another set of wheels for road/local trails might be the answer. I would certainly use the same cassette and hub, but the AXS GX solution could work as well.

 

[Albagord]

Why did you bother?

The decrease in rolling resistance and extra battery life will be minimal. It would've been more sensible to buy a second battery.

Already have second battery. Riding is a mix on country roads and local hills. Riding with aggressive tyres on road is like driving a tractor. New tyres are much more efficient.

 

[p3eps]

Already have second battery. Riding is a mix on country roads and local hills. Riding with aggressive tyres on road is like driving a tractor. New tyres are much more efficient.

I got a new wheelset not long ago, and am tempted to get a thinner set of better rolling tyres on the old wheels. Use them for horrible days when I still want to ride, but can't be bothered getting filthy in the woods. Some fire roads, cycle tracks etc - a lot of which is concrete.

I'm going to need a new rear brake rotor (I have a spare front) and will have to swap my cassette back and forth though as I grudge spending £300 on a second T-Type one!

 

[Bndit]

Bought a set of wheels and tyres for road purposes so I cut the drag and decrease use of battery power. Rear wheel is a Hope wheel and built with a hub for eMTB purposes. Only found out that brands of hubs can vary by a couple of millimetres so will have to adjust mech and cable each time I swop out the wheels as gears are slipping. Any suggestions to avoid this fiddly operation?

I have problems to believe this because there are standards. If you have for example two 148 boost hubs with MS free hubs. Then you swap cassette between them, you should`t have to adjust anything. Only if you have lost same spacer etc. Or you have wrong end caps or something. I have swapped Shimano, Race Face, Roval and DT swiss wheels/hubs, never had to adjust brake or derailleur…

 

[Paulquattro]

Hi
Welcome
Forget standards this is something you will have to live with swapping between different makes
It happens on rotors as well in some cases so im afraid you will have to fine tune your gears every swap unless of course you build another hope hub into a second wheel and duplicate everything on that wheel No adjustments should be needed then

 

[deksawyer]

You guys with extra wheels, you are riding ebikes, yes? With a motor that gives varying levels of assistance at the flick of a switch? Or am I missing something?

I am being semi sarcastic btw.