Magura MT7 Pro's - what do I need?

[infyrana]

I'm eyeing up a future upgrade for my Turbo Levo Comp Alloy, SRAM R-breaks feel way too spongey for me personally and I've always fancied some Magura's.

Whilst I can find professionals to install/service them, I'm not so familiar with what all the bits I need to buy if I want to get the right set for my bike. I understand the Magura MT7 Pro lever/caliper set is compatible both front/rear, then I want a 220mm rotor up front, 203mm rear, and to replace the lever blades with something stronger. Beyond that, I'm outta touch with the cabling/pads/fluid-kits and which specific rotor make/product I'll need.

Any parts info and advice from those of you who have made the switch would be most appreciated please.

 

[RustyIron]

The MT7's are my favorite brakes. I've found that the factory pads and the factory rotors create a very faint squeal under normal operation. Golfers pads and rotors are completely silent, but I'm not sure which component solves the problem. I'd go with the Galfers rotors first, since you'll already have the Magura pads.

I run the original levers, because they feel good to me and I've never had reason to try anything else. Each lever has a little aluminum tab that keeps it from extending backward. I broke off the little tabs pretty quickly, but they don't seem to serve a useful purpose, so I didn't replace them. The biggest weakness is that the reach adjusters just flop around, so you'll want to add a drop of Loctite. If I were you, I'd just run the normal levers and see how you like them.

 

[Snrbrtsn]

I fitted mine a while back
Replaced the lever clamps for their shift mix 1+2 kits
Different kits for different configurations of dropper posts & shifters, can be a pain to find correct kit

At the same time, bought Magura bleed kit & fluid, no real issue bleeding, though purposefully, bled brakes twice with the calipers on the floor & lever at highest point.
Many woes of difficulty bleeding, though I thought relative simple

Echoing what said above, I use as supplied Magura levers, with no problem and like the feel.
A very worthwhile upgrade in my opinion

 

[Robstyle]

I don't mean to turn this into a which brake post, so my apologies in advance. I swapped some mt7's for Hayes dominions. They're pretty much better in every single way, bleeding, power, lever feel and the micro adjust function is awesome to get perfect pad alignment.
Literally the only thing I don't like about them is dot fluid, I hate the stuff haha.
Just another consideration for you

 

[valecek]

on my mondraker, I replaced code R with magura MT7, 220 mdrp discs and eventually HC3 levers
Despite many mixed reviews, the sram code R never struck me as a bad choice, it was more of an upgrade and embellishment of an e-bike.

Another drawback was that the combined sockets from magura for sram did not get along very well with the axs setting, so in the end I use the sockets separately


Currently it's the best combo I've ever ridden on a bike. I am currently using the second pair of magura boards suitable for ebikes. I also have kool stop red on hold and I'm looking at galfer ebike boards. maguras have only two negatives. Rubber feel of the stock levers (removed by upgrading to hc3) and not completely easy to vent. if they are already set, they also stop the locomotive

 

[psst!!!...]

well, I also changed the codes rsc´s to magura mt7 on the levo.
Really like the maguras. they are like porsche brakes on cars.
BUTTTTT...
i received the REIGN E+0 with code RSC´s also and i tried that bike and the braking is amazing! nothing like the ones on the levo were and I stuck knocking on my head: why???
it all comes to pad alignment and bleeding on the srams.

I know shimano xt´s 4; code rsc´s and magura and FOR me the code rsc´s (well bleeded and aligned) are even stronger and defnitively more linear) than shimano and stronger than MT7 (not as much linear).

I know that this colide with most posts but this is what I feel. My coleagues also tried and they saw my route on this and we all are quite surprised on the impact SRAM code RSC´s bleeding and alignement have on the performance of their products.

(Note: my Magura MT7 setup is equal to Valecek´s)

 

[unclezz]

Any parts info and advice from those of you who have made the switch would be most appreciated please.

Hello, I did similar change to my analog bike.

Parts you can buy:

- MT7 kit that comes with both calipers and levers (at the beginning I would not go for hc3 levers but for the standard 1 finger hc1)
- if you like the bite point adjustment there is a dedicated kit to buy. It is not coming standard. I have it but I am not sure it is that efficient. You can skip this at the beginning, but google it to understand what is that about.
- For the rotors I suggest you to search for storm HC model. I don’t recommend the msrp that showed some issues in the past on the floating part of them.
- Consider also if you need to replace post mounts and go for the magura ones, especially if going for bigger rotors. Even though it is not mandatory to buy magura PM, I like that they come with a set of different screws length.
- make sure you have a hose cutter. This is key when sizing the hoses to avoid oil leaking from levers after installation.
- buy the magura bleeding kit, also the cheapest will do a perfect job

Magura brakes are amazing but the initial setup for mech newbies can be challenging, so plan to do everything with patience and no rush. It’s very satisfying

 

[Shjay]

I am running MT5s Ltd edition on my Rise with MDR-P & MDR-C rotor on rear, it’s a one piece, the rotor has a hole where you can fit a Magura magnet for rear wheel works perfectly

 

[infyrana]

Many thanks to all for your great replies. I'm gonna have a dig around for the things suggested here and see what more I can learn.

@unclezz appreciate the advise on alternative rotors, sourcing the Magura stuff is not as easy it would seem (one shop here hasn't had a restock in a number of months). Hose cutter and post mounts, noted

@psst!!!... SRAM RSC's have been mentioned to me and could be an alternative cheers?

@valecek great to know about the levers thanks, yeah I agree - more of an embelishment as much as an upgrade. What did you mean by the 'sockets' please?

 

[Shjay]

Loads of MT7s in stock at Magura it’s the 220mm MDR-P rotors that are on back order

 

[CliffP]

on my mondraker, I replaced code R with magura MT7, 220 mdrp discs and eventually HC3 levers
Despite many mixed reviews, the sram code R never struck me as a bad choice, it was more of an upgrade and embellishment of an e-bike.

Another drawback was that the combined sockets from magura for sram did not get along very well with the axs setting, so in the end I use the sockets separately


Currently it's the best combo I've ever ridden on a bike. I am currently using the second pair of magura boards suitable for ebikes. I also have kool stop red on hold and I'm looking at galfer ebike boards. maguras have only two negatives. Rubber feel of the stock levers (removed by upgrading to hc3) and not completely easy to vent. if they are already set, they also stop the locomotive

View attachment 114928 View attachment 114929 View attachment 114930 View attachment 114931 View attachment 114932 View attachment 114933 View attachment 114934 View attachment 114935

I too put MT7s on my Mondraker. Great brakes

 

[p3eps]

I did this about 3 years ago and never looked back. At the time, I had no experience with changing brakes... but YouTube talked me into having a go myself!!
I'd changed a load of other components on my bike successfully, so why not...

I bought the 2 boxes of MT7 Pros, which came assembled... and 2x rotors.

I would say the front one was a piece of cake, but I think it came with a 2.5m hose - so that needed trimmed to a more manageable size.
The rear needed cut at the lever, and then the hose fed through the build in routing through my frame. Both brakes needed new banjos and olives - which are supplied in the box. Following the Magura videos, this was a relatively straightforward process.

The next part was bleeding them... and this wasn't quite so easy. I bought a bottle of Royal Blood, and a bleed kit, and spent about 2 hours pushing the liquid back and forth through the syringes until eventually I had firm levers.

One issue I had only a few months back was struggling to align the caliper / rotor after replacing pads... which ended up in a continual rubbing / shrieking noise. Magura have a very fine gap between the pads / rotor, so if it's not spot on, it can cause issues. I bought a thing I saw advertised on Facebook called a Cycle Pal, which is a little alignment tool. Although it worked great, it cost about £15... and you can buy them on eBay for about £2!!

Yesterday, I started fitting all of my old bike parts onto a new frame only that I purchased. I've run the brake hose through the internal routing, and the banjos and olives just arrived in the post today. That will be my task tonight! I also have a hose cutter sitting here that I'm borrowing from work for the weekend to make sure I get a nice flush cut.
I'm sure I'll have a whole load of fun re-filling and bleeding my rear brake... but as long as you take your time and keep pinging the lever to make sure all the bubbles are out, then it's pretty simple. Once it's done, you generally don't need to touch it.

I changed my levers for the Magura carbon ones as I suffer from Raynauds... and carbon feels a lot less cold in the winter!
Again, a simple process if you watch the correct Magura video.

I've used various SRAM and Shimano brakes over the years, but the Maguras get my vote

 

[E-MAD MALC]

My setup

I did this about 3 years ago and never looked back. At the time, I had no experience with changing brakes... but YouTube talked me into having a go myself!!
I'd changed a load of other components on my bike successfully, so why not...

I bought the 2 boxes of MT7 Pros, which came assembled... and 2x rotors.

I would say the front one was a piece of cake, but I think it came with a 2.5m hose - so that needed trimmed to a more manageable size.
The rear needed cut at the lever, and then the hose fed through the build in routing through my frame. Both brakes needed new banjos and olives - which are supplied in the box. Following the Magura videos, this was a relatively straightforward process.

The next part was bleeding them... and this wasn't quite so easy. I bought a bottle of Royal Blood, and a bleed kit, and spent about 2 hours pushing the liquid back and forth through the syringes until eventually I had firm levers.

One issue I had only a few months back was struggling to align the caliper / rotor after replacing pads... which ended up in a continual rubbing / shrieking noise. Magura have a very fine gap between the pads / rotor, so if it's not spot on, it can cause issues. I bought a thing I saw advertised on Facebook called a Cycle Pal, which is a little alignment tool. Although it worked great, it cost about £15... and you can buy them on eBay for about £2!!

Yesterday, I started fitting all of my old bike parts onto a new frame only that I purchased. I've run the brake hose through the internal routing, and the banjos and olives just arrived in the post today. That will be my task tonight! I also have a hose cutter sitting here that I'm borrowing from work for the weekend to make sure I get a nice flush cut.
I'm sure I'll have a whole load of fun re-filling and bleeding my rear brake... but as long as you take your time and keep pinging the lever to make sure all the bubbles are out, then it's pretty simple. Once it's done, you generally don't need to touch it.

I changed my levers for the Magura carbon ones as I suffer from Raynauds... and carbon feels a lot less cold in the winter!
Again, a simple process if you watch the correct Magura video.

I've used various SRAM and Shimano brakes over the years, but the Maguras get my vote

Has always been
Magura 4 pot with magura Brake pad 8. S, SPORT, MDR-P 203 With shimano XT levers great stopping power

 

[thewrx]

Agree with most of the posts, MT7s
>Rotors 203 one piece HD rotor rear
220 piece front,
> Adapters for F@ R
> And HC1 levers, if you want to dial in, stock are fine, but some people like longer shorter reach and length
>Shift mix adapters for shifter and dropper.
>Maybe the magura service kit and bleed kit for use down the road,
>bottle of magura blood

Note, the MT5s are damn near the same, and might look cooler “fabio edition, or the best looking “Danny M’s” in yellow