Swissrider
Well-known member
I have just completed a 200 hour service on my 2018 Lyrik forks. I wrote to Sram to find out the correct 200 hr service kit which I had upgraded with the newer Debonair C1 upgrade kit (a relatively cheap upgrade which improves performance noticeably) and got a message back with the code number. However, the kit I ordered with this number had the original seal head, not the newer one which comes with the upgrade. I went ahead with the service anyway and used the seal head I got with the upgrade as it looked in good condition to me. I also noticed when comparing the online manual for the upgrade it with the 2018 manual for the Lyrik forks that there were some differences; different lubricants, different procedures etc, so I wrote to Sram pointing out I had been recommended the wrong service kit and pointed out some of the discrepancies between the 2018 instructions and those the upgrade. Jeremy from Sram got back to me and not only offered profuse apologies but also offered to send me the correct seal head and said he would pass on to the technical department.) So, for anyone who has upgraded their forks (or has more recent ones with the debonair spring) here are some tips which might help;
Firstly, the kit you need with the newer seal head is #00.4318.025.020
In the table that is with the 2018 instructions the recommended lubricants are 0.3 and 0.30 Rockshox suspension oils. In the latest charts these have change to Maxima Plush light and heavy oil.
Another difference between the instructions is in the removal of the air spring. In the 2018 instructions step 5 says simply pull out the spring. However, if one has updated the spring then one needs to follow the step 3 of the update manual, which also says pull out the air spring. However, it also It suggest for the 2019 model (or updated older model) negative pressure might make this difficult and says to push with a dowel. I found this impossible no matter how hard I pushed (and it is very awkward to push on the dowel at the same time as pulling on the spring). I found a Sharp tap on the dowel was needed to break the seal and the spring flew out!
In the update instruction Step 2 of the 2018 instructions it says release air pressure. Actually, it is best to take valve out, which ensures all pressure is released. (This is recommended in Fox manuals for their suspension parts). Removing the valve makes it much easier to install the leg lowers. With the valve in there, the air is trapped as one pushes the lowers and this air in the chamber creates pressure as one pushes the lowers on. One can release this by pressing on the valve but much better to have no valve in there at all. Also, when pulling on the lowers to extend them, one is not creating negative pressure, which can prevent the forks from fully extending when service is complete, or when pulling the lowers down to inject oil (see below).
Step 4 of lower leg assembly. The manual does not say to pull the lowers down sufficiently so there is a gap between the bottom of the air spring and damper. If the bottom of the air spring and damper rods are touching the bottom of the lowers, one cannot inject any oil and it goes everywhere!
Between step 4 and 5 some suggest putting in 20psi of pressure into the forks. This forces the spring and damper rods down so the bolts can be inserted and apparently stops build up of negative pressure. I left the valve off until this stage.
The crush washers in my kit were not the correct size. I used a copper washer on the spring side since this is the standard type of waste used on motorbikes for oil plugs.
Step 8 says simply pressurise the fork to the correct setting and says nothing about avoiding negative air pressure. The advice on internet is to gradually increase pressure by 10psi and then cycle the fork at least 10 times with each increase in pressure. This is to equalise pressure between the positive and negative chambers to make sure there is no suck-back which will reduce travel and ruin small bump sensitivity.
In the the service instruction for the 2018 Lyrik it says in step 7 of the the lower leg service to push the seals in until they are flush, but the photo shows the seals about 2mm proud. If one pushes them down to be completely flush then the foam washers are compressed, which is wrong.
In the 2018 instructions I think there is mistake in the section on testing the lockout. It says for RCT3 there should be no more than 2mm of movement when locked out but RCT3 forks do not have lock out, so the description for the RC and RC R is correct, constant resistance should be felt.
Firstly, the kit you need with the newer seal head is #00.4318.025.020
In the table that is with the 2018 instructions the recommended lubricants are 0.3 and 0.30 Rockshox suspension oils. In the latest charts these have change to Maxima Plush light and heavy oil.
Another difference between the instructions is in the removal of the air spring. In the 2018 instructions step 5 says simply pull out the spring. However, if one has updated the spring then one needs to follow the step 3 of the update manual, which also says pull out the air spring. However, it also It suggest for the 2019 model (or updated older model) negative pressure might make this difficult and says to push with a dowel. I found this impossible no matter how hard I pushed (and it is very awkward to push on the dowel at the same time as pulling on the spring). I found a Sharp tap on the dowel was needed to break the seal and the spring flew out!
In the update instruction Step 2 of the 2018 instructions it says release air pressure. Actually, it is best to take valve out, which ensures all pressure is released. (This is recommended in Fox manuals for their suspension parts). Removing the valve makes it much easier to install the leg lowers. With the valve in there, the air is trapped as one pushes the lowers and this air in the chamber creates pressure as one pushes the lowers on. One can release this by pressing on the valve but much better to have no valve in there at all. Also, when pulling on the lowers to extend them, one is not creating negative pressure, which can prevent the forks from fully extending when service is complete, or when pulling the lowers down to inject oil (see below).
Step 4 of lower leg assembly. The manual does not say to pull the lowers down sufficiently so there is a gap between the bottom of the air spring and damper. If the bottom of the air spring and damper rods are touching the bottom of the lowers, one cannot inject any oil and it goes everywhere!
Between step 4 and 5 some suggest putting in 20psi of pressure into the forks. This forces the spring and damper rods down so the bolts can be inserted and apparently stops build up of negative pressure. I left the valve off until this stage.
The crush washers in my kit were not the correct size. I used a copper washer on the spring side since this is the standard type of waste used on motorbikes for oil plugs.
Step 8 says simply pressurise the fork to the correct setting and says nothing about avoiding negative air pressure. The advice on internet is to gradually increase pressure by 10psi and then cycle the fork at least 10 times with each increase in pressure. This is to equalise pressure between the positive and negative chambers to make sure there is no suck-back which will reduce travel and ruin small bump sensitivity.
In the the service instruction for the 2018 Lyrik it says in step 7 of the the lower leg service to push the seals in until they are flush, but the photo shows the seals about 2mm proud. If one pushes them down to be completely flush then the foam washers are compressed, which is wrong.
In the 2018 instructions I think there is mistake in the section on testing the lockout. It says for RCT3 there should be no more than 2mm of movement when locked out but RCT3 forks do not have lock out, so the description for the RC and RC R is correct, constant resistance should be felt.
