Longer pedal axles for E-MTB

[jemen]

I just ordered the Crank Brother Mallet LS pedals with longer axles. I think longer axles provide better control for heavy E-MTB´s. What are your experiences? I hope i dont´t get knee problems on longer tours...

j.

 

[jemen]

Had first testrides with the longer axles. Feels very very well. Gonna keep ém. More release angle is really cool too.
Mallet E LS

j.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

How are you getting on with these? Thinking of getting a set.

 

[steve_sordy]

Once these catch on won't we get a rash of "my pedals are hitting the ground and I need shorter cranks......"

 

[jemen]

How are you getting on with these? Thinking of getting a set.

Really awesome, i would never change again. The wider stand delivers much more safety and control in tight corners and superfast Passage. Go and get for them!

 

[jemen]

Once these catch on won't we get a rash of "my pedals are hitting the ground and I need shorter cranks......"

I don´t know what you do, but i don´t pedal in corners.

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

I have used these pedals for a few years on my non ebike and they are great for control when clipped in. I use their stamp 3 flat pedals at the moment on my ebike but will put these on for winter when I switch to my Sidi boots.

 

[steve_sordy]

I don´t know what you do, but i don´t pedal in corners.

I rarely pedal in corners, but I do lean over a lot in them. I was reacting to all the posts (or was it just one long thread) about how many pedal strikes riders were having and could they get shorter, then even shorter, cranks. A longer pedal axis will have pretty much the same effect as a longer crank when it comes to striking the ground and other trail objects. Just saying.

 

[R120]

With flats I like a pedal that sits close to the crank, such as a Burgtec Penthouse or some of the HT's, as I find it does make a difference when threading the bike on technical stuff. I also feel like (but this is probably just in my head) it gives better control.

On clips the axle length is more related to getting into a position that you like, especially if you find the stock position gets you any sort of joint pain. I cant think of any clips that stick out beyond the line of the shoe, whereas a lot of the big flat pedal like the big Crank Brothers Stamps stick out a long way from the crank.

 

[Swissrider]

I have used SPDs for years and clipping in and out (deliberately or crashing) is completely natural and I like the feeling of security and not getting bounced off the pedals in rough ground. I did use some flats in the winter so I could wear warmer foot ware and really noticed the increase in pedal strikes, which is very rarely a problem with my clips. Shorter cranks would help for strikes under the pedal and leaning right over but wide pedals are inevitably going to be more of a problem in deep ruts or any narrow constrictions caused by rocks, roots etc. The trade off will be greater security as described above. I guess it depends what sort of rider you are and where you ride - maybe flats in the bike park and clips for narrow technical single trail.

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

Worth a mention that the longer spindles on the CB pedals came as a suggestion from the EWS riders as providing more stability when standing on the platforms in technical situations. I have ran them for a few years and find they make zero difference to pedal strikes in my experience. Ultimately controlling your pedal strokes in rough, rutted and rocky areas is the key to reducing pedal strikes not ever smaller cranks.

Also we are talking a few mm here not cm's.

 

[steve_sordy]

.......... Ultimately controlling your pedal strokes in rough, rutted and rocky areas is the key to reducing pedal strikes not ever smaller cranks. ...........

Agreed

 

[Gary]

Crank Bros LS axles are just 5mm longer.
You can achieve the same by simply moving your cleats inwards by 5mm.
If after that you suddenly feel a gazillion times more stable go for the LS axles.
Personally. Riding lots of different bikes often means I adapt to different Q-factors/BB heights, bar widths, bike sizing and geometry really quickly so it'd be a pretty pointless change for me.

Wee bit of history for you:
Back in the early to mid 2000s 100mm BB shells were introduced in DH. We were all told by manufacturers of the added stability but no mention was made of the reduced clearance through rocks/ruts/roots etc. Funnily enough all DH bikes all went back down to 83mm a few years later.
That just happens to be 5mm wider each side than the 73mm shells you find on Enduro/trail bikes now and oldskool 90s DH bikes.
So interestingly fitting these to your Enduro bike or Shimano equipped Emtb should mimick the slightly wider Q factor stance found on a DH bike.