losgatosgtr
Well-known member
Thanks for the info. I imagine the fork offset of your lyric was the same as the fox? 51mm I believe.
Levo SL Gen 1 Levo SL Expert - First Ride
- Thread starter p3eps
- Start date
jcmonty
Well-known member
Just got my MT7s in the mail today as well! Quick question - any trouble with the internal routing? Anything to note that helped you during install?
losgatosgtr
Well-known member
Swapping the front and rear brakes from SRAM to Shimano XT was a massive upgrade. You would need to get the following:
- two new shimano olive and barb insert kits.
- Shimano brakes of your choice.
- Shimano mineral Oil and Bleed kit.
- New 6 bolt rotors of your choice (203mm front and 180mm rear ice tech is what I used).
- Caliper adapter for front 203mm shimano rotor. Make sure you get the one in the photo.
You need to cut the SRAM rear brake line at the lever and use a barb connector fitting (see photo) to attach an old brake line to the end you just cut and pull it thru to the rear swing arm. Then you attach your new shimano brake line to the barb on the old brake line and pull the new line back thru the swingarm and frame back to the bar. The barb has one left hand thread and on right hand thread.
Barb connector reverb stealth on amazon:
losgatosgtr
Well-known member
Of course you would modify the above required parts for the Magura mt7 using the correct hose olives and caliper adapters.
losgatosgtr
Well-known member
The red barb connector made it painless to swap out the hoses.
Vin829
Member
What did you do with the dropper post lever? Since it uses the matchmaker attached to the SRAM brake lever assembly?Swapping the front and rear brakes from SRAM to Shimano XT was a massive upgrade. You would need to get the following:
- two new shimano olive and barb insert kits.
- Shimano brakes of your choice.
- Shimano mineral Oil and Bleed kit.
- New 6 bolt rotors of your choice (203mm front and 180mm rear ice tech is what I used).
- Caliper adapter for front 203mm shimano rotor. Make sure you get the one in the photo.
You need to cut the SRAM rear brake line at the lever and use a barb connector fitting (see photo) to attach an old brake line to the end you just cut and pull it thru to the rear swing arm. Then you attach your new shimano brake line to the barb on the old brake line and pull the new line back thru the swingarm and frame back to the bar. The barb has one left hand thread and on right hand thread.
Barb connector reverb stealth on amazon:
losgatosgtr
Well-known member
I installed the Sram AXS reverb post so the controller came with a clamp. I used XT brakes so they have their own clamp and are positioned inboard of the reverb controller. I can attach a photo tomorrow.
Vin829
Member
yea my expert came with a xfusion dropper with no clamp. It’s hooked to my sram brakes by a matchmaker. Looking at matchmaker they don’t make anything for the new Shimano XT or XTR brakes
losgatosgtr
Well-known member
Wolf tooth makes some adapters for the right hand controls but not for the left.
- Thread starter
- #130
The internal cable routing ‘should’ be as simple as just pushing the new hose in - and it pops out where it should. There is a sleeve / conduit that runs inside the frame - so when you push a hose it, it follows this path.
Mine was a nightmare and got stuck - so I’d go with the barb suggestion above just in case. It could save you hours of heartache!!
I ordered Magua’s own Matchmaker kit, which works perfectly with my AXS shifter / dropper lever.
I don’t think the post mount adapter is the correct one for Magura? You need one that is bigger at the top than the bottom - and that the bolts from the piston go straight through into the fork. Maybe it’s different as I have a Rockshox fork?
jcmonty
Well-known member
I ordered a barb. Thanks for the tip @losgatosgtr !
- Thread starter
- #132
Too miserable outside to ride today...
Today I changed my tubeless valves to Muc Off 44mm ones as my front Roval one leaked like a sieve!
I then shortened my brake hoses a bit - as it was much cleaner looking with the wireless dropper fitted. I also got some ‘plugs’ sent to my LBS from Specialized to fill the blanks where I removed the shifter / dropper cables. I have 1 more for the TCU control when I remove that too.
I decided to experiment with my Mud Hugger front guard, and chopped a few inches off the end - then drilled a couple more holes in it.
I then applied a couple of extra layers of Invisiframe to the seat stay, and fitted the guard. Hopefully it’s supposed to be dry in the morning, so I’ll get a chance to test it.
Another +75g added, but in North East Scotland at the moment, you NEED mudguards of some description!
Today I changed my tubeless valves to Muc Off 44mm ones as my front Roval one leaked like a sieve!
I then shortened my brake hoses a bit - as it was much cleaner looking with the wireless dropper fitted. I also got some ‘plugs’ sent to my LBS from Specialized to fill the blanks where I removed the shifter / dropper cables. I have 1 more for the TCU control when I remove that too.
I decided to experiment with my Mud Hugger front guard, and chopped a few inches off the end - then drilled a couple more holes in it.
I then applied a couple of extra layers of Invisiframe to the seat stay, and fitted the guard. Hopefully it’s supposed to be dry in the morning, so I’ll get a chance to test it.
Another +75g added, but in North East Scotland at the moment, you NEED mudguards of some description!
- Thread starter
- #133
One of this weeks parcels arrived today...
An XX1 ‘rainbow’ cassette and chain - and removal tools.
SRAM Eagle GX Cassette - 451g
SRAM Eagle XX1 Cassette - 368g
That’s another 83g removed... and I think the XX1 chain is a whopping 5g lighter than the GX one!
My ‘for sale’ pile is getting bigger and bigger!
An XX1 ‘rainbow’ cassette and chain - and removal tools.
SRAM Eagle GX Cassette - 451g
SRAM Eagle XX1 Cassette - 368g
That’s another 83g removed... and I think the XX1 chain is a whopping 5g lighter than the GX one!
My ‘for sale’ pile is getting bigger and bigger!
I am mesmerised by that colour!
- Thread starter
- #135
Me too - I’m trying to find more bits to match! Ordered a seat clamp which looks amazing - but I bought 34.9mm because that’s what my seat post is - not realising I need 38.6mm. Sadly, I can’t find one in that size!
- Thread starter
- #136
Another parcel yesterday...
Magura carbon levers. Not really bought as a weight saver, but will shave a few grams off. I suffer from Raynaud’s syndrome, which means I always have cold hands, and especially finger tips. Carbon levers don’t feel nearly as cold to touch on cold days as alloy - hence the swap. I swapped to carbon levers on my last bike, and they genuinely make a big difference when it’s freezing outside.
Magura Alloy Lever - 30g
Magura Carbon lever: 17g
26g saving for the pair. Definitely not worth £129 for the weight saving - but worth it for my fingers!
Magura carbon levers. Not really bought as a weight saver, but will shave a few grams off. I suffer from Raynaud’s syndrome, which means I always have cold hands, and especially finger tips. Carbon levers don’t feel nearly as cold to touch on cold days as alloy - hence the swap. I swapped to carbon levers on my last bike, and they genuinely make a big difference when it’s freezing outside.
Magura Alloy Lever - 30g
Magura Carbon lever: 17g
26g saving for the pair. Definitely not worth £129 for the weight saving - but worth it for my fingers!
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I get the same sort of problem with my hands and fingers.
I started using these (recommended by @Mikerb ) and found a dramatic improvement.
- Thread starter
- #138
I use these...
They’re Keis heated lining gloves. I think they’re meant for motorcycle use - to wear under giant gauntlet type gloves.
I bought them in a Medium (which is snug) and then bought the same Fox gloves as I wear in an XL to go over the Keis ones.
The battery goes in my chest pocket, and I run a wire down each sleeve. It’s a bit of a PITA to get set up, but once your plugged in, they stay warm for a couple of hours. I also have a controller somewhere that you can choose the heat setting - which makes them last longer on lower heats. Without it, they’re full blast all the time.
I’d rather just have a single pair of thin Fox gloves on for the feel... but in cold temperatures this can be extremely painful. The Keis gloves work really well. They just take a few extra minutes to run the cables - but I do this in the house before I go.
When I get home, I use Glacier Gloves for washing the bike as they’re fully waterproof and insulated. I also use them for cleaning the car too. Can easily put your hand in a bucket of water for extended periods of time and they don’t leak. My first pair lasted about 2 1/2 years till they started leaking a bit. These ones are only a couple of months old.
They’re Keis heated lining gloves. I think they’re meant for motorcycle use - to wear under giant gauntlet type gloves.
I bought them in a Medium (which is snug) and then bought the same Fox gloves as I wear in an XL to go over the Keis ones.
The battery goes in my chest pocket, and I run a wire down each sleeve. It’s a bit of a PITA to get set up, but once your plugged in, they stay warm for a couple of hours. I also have a controller somewhere that you can choose the heat setting - which makes them last longer on lower heats. Without it, they’re full blast all the time.
I’d rather just have a single pair of thin Fox gloves on for the feel... but in cold temperatures this can be extremely painful. The Keis gloves work really well. They just take a few extra minutes to run the cables - but I do this in the house before I go.
When I get home, I use Glacier Gloves for washing the bike as they’re fully waterproof and insulated. I also use them for cleaning the car too. Can easily put your hand in a bucket of water for extended periods of time and they don’t leak. My first pair lasted about 2 1/2 years till they started leaking a bit. These ones are only a couple of months old.
- Thread starter
- #139
There is a matchmaker for these.
I have a set of them in a drawer that I bought for the Trek Rail - and then returned the bike.
Had to order from Germany, but came in a couple of days.
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- Thread starter
- #140
Firstly - I’m in the UK, where we’re still allowed out! Social distancing is expected - so a solo ride at 7am shouldn’t involve being 2m from anyone.
It’s Mother’s Day, so I didn’t want to be gone too long - so went to the local trail. About a mile along the road from me is a park / golf course... and the wooded paths round there lead down to another forest. Overall, I get about a 16 mile loop out of that.
Some nice paths and fire track, and a few short downhill sections for good measure. Nothing too tough - but a good option when time is an issue.
Left the house in Eco (which I have set to 40/70), and started pedalling away. As I approached the park, I looked at my TCU and saw it only had 4 bars. I plugged it in last night, and the charger was green when I switched it off - odd.
Anyway, a second glance a few seconds later, and there were 3 bars. I carried on through the wooded path up and round the golf course - and within another 2 1/2 miles, another light went out. I now have 2 bars!
A minute later, I had to stop to open a gate. Whilst stopped, I checked Mission Control on my phone. It said 19%.
Knowing I had still 12+ miles to go, I changed Eco to 10/40.
I did the full route of 15.8 miles, 333m elevation in 1hr 27 (1hr 24 moving) and got back home - still with 11% battery remaining.
That was about 12miles on 8% battery.
Now I’m not saying I would choose to run the bike on 10/40! It was probably 5% covering the extra weight and motor drag... and 5% actual boost, but I’m back home feeling like I could have gone a lot further.
For 5% boost, you’d be as well sticking with a manual bike. What I am trying to say is that in an emergency, you could easily tone down your mission control and get 10 miles out of your last 10% if you needed... and it wasn’t tough going. I just used lower gears and pedalled more than I would have on 40/70.
When I saw the 19% after about 3.5miles I thought I was going to be in trouble! Turns out it was still quite enjoyable.
On another note - it seems very few people are following the age 70+ stay indoors, and social distancing rules. There were runners and dog walkers out on mass - groups of 4, 6 and even a family (I assume) of 9 wandering round the forest. So many old people out for a walk. When I left the house, the streets were like a ghost town - so seeing so many people out and about was surprising.
A beautiful morning, and the trails were almost dry. The first time I haven’t had to hose my bike for months. A few dry dots of mud on the underside of the downtube, but that was it.
It’s Mother’s Day, so I didn’t want to be gone too long - so went to the local trail. About a mile along the road from me is a park / golf course... and the wooded paths round there lead down to another forest. Overall, I get about a 16 mile loop out of that.
Some nice paths and fire track, and a few short downhill sections for good measure. Nothing too tough - but a good option when time is an issue.
Left the house in Eco (which I have set to 40/70), and started pedalling away. As I approached the park, I looked at my TCU and saw it only had 4 bars. I plugged it in last night, and the charger was green when I switched it off - odd.
Anyway, a second glance a few seconds later, and there were 3 bars. I carried on through the wooded path up and round the golf course - and within another 2 1/2 miles, another light went out. I now have 2 bars!
A minute later, I had to stop to open a gate. Whilst stopped, I checked Mission Control on my phone. It said 19%.
Knowing I had still 12+ miles to go, I changed Eco to 10/40.
I did the full route of 15.8 miles, 333m elevation in 1hr 27 (1hr 24 moving) and got back home - still with 11% battery remaining.
That was about 12miles on 8% battery.
Now I’m not saying I would choose to run the bike on 10/40! It was probably 5% covering the extra weight and motor drag... and 5% actual boost, but I’m back home feeling like I could have gone a lot further.
For 5% boost, you’d be as well sticking with a manual bike. What I am trying to say is that in an emergency, you could easily tone down your mission control and get 10 miles out of your last 10% if you needed... and it wasn’t tough going. I just used lower gears and pedalled more than I would have on 40/70.
When I saw the 19% after about 3.5miles I thought I was going to be in trouble! Turns out it was still quite enjoyable.
On another note - it seems very few people are following the age 70+ stay indoors, and social distancing rules. There were runners and dog walkers out on mass - groups of 4, 6 and even a family (I assume) of 9 wandering round the forest. So many old people out for a walk. When I left the house, the streets were like a ghost town - so seeing so many people out and about was surprising.
A beautiful morning, and the trails were almost dry. The first time I haven’t had to hose my bike for months. A few dry dots of mud on the underside of the downtube, but that was it.
Waynetta
E*POWAH Master
Are you concerned about the battery dropping so quick? Seems a bit odd.
It’s amazing how little power and support you need for it to feel like peddling a light bike. I was out with 3 acoustic fit riders yesterday and eco on 35/35 was enough 90% of the time to keep up with them. We did 20 miles round Haldon hill Exeter and 2000 ft climbing I had 62% battery remaining!! I did use trail and turbo occasionally. The bike was brilliant round the trail centre. ?
It’s amazing how little power and support you need for it to feel like peddling a light bike. I was out with 3 acoustic fit riders yesterday and eco on 35/35 was enough 90% of the time to keep up with them. We did 20 miles round Haldon hill Exeter and 2000 ft climbing I had 62% battery remaining!! I did use trail and turbo occasionally. The bike was brilliant round the trail centre. ?
- Thread starter
- #142
I find the charger connector pretty poor. You just push it in, and it stays... but it’s not very secure.
Last weekends ride finished with about 30%... so I think I’ve plugged it in and knocked it out within a few mins.
4 bars is 39-30%, so it dropping from 4-3 bars could be it dropping from 30% to 29% in the 2mins between glances.
I then rode another 2.5miles which was all uphill - and dropped another 10% - which took me to 19% and 2 bars... before changing the Mission Control to 10/40.
I don’t think there’s anything to worry about - other than making sure the charger is properly seated before I leave the room! I charged it up this afternoon - and now have all the lights on.
Will keep an eye on it over the next few uses / charges though.
Waynetta
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #144
A couple more things arrived today, and I’ve fitted / weighed another that I’d never got round to!
Following the iridescent theme of my cassette / chain and valves - I got some Ergon GE1 grips to replace the standard Specialized ones.
Specialized grips = 54g each
Ergon GE1 grips = 50g each
Woohoo = 8g saved... but much nicer looking and very grippy!
Specialized Bridge Comp Saddle = 258g
Specialized Phenom S-Works Saddle = 148g
110g saving there. I have a Phenom Expert on my Stumpy which I love. Hopefully the S-Works is the same comfort, but with carbon rails!
Changed the Magura MT7 luminous yellow circles on the callipers to purple ones to be more fitting with my iridescent bits! Now need to see if I can find the purple MT7 logos for the levers that are pictured on their website.
Following the iridescent theme of my cassette / chain and valves - I got some Ergon GE1 grips to replace the standard Specialized ones.
Specialized grips = 54g each
Ergon GE1 grips = 50g each
Woohoo = 8g saved... but much nicer looking and very grippy!
Specialized Bridge Comp Saddle = 258g
Specialized Phenom S-Works Saddle = 148g
110g saving there. I have a Phenom Expert on my Stumpy which I love. Hopefully the S-Works is the same comfort, but with carbon rails!
Changed the Magura MT7 luminous yellow circles on the callipers to purple ones to be more fitting with my iridescent bits! Now need to see if I can find the purple MT7 logos for the levers that are pictured on their website.
losgatosgtr
Well-known member
Looking good
- Thread starter
- #146
Last part - for a while anyway!
Following the iridescent theme, I bought some new pedals. HT Components ANS-10 Supreme pedals. A few extra g’s above my previous DMR Vault Magnesium pedals, but these look awesome!
DMR Vault Mg = 372g (pair)
HT ANS-10 Supreme = 379g (pair)
+7g - so very little in it!
I think that’s me done for now. I’m still waiting for Praxxis to release the carbon cranks which are due at the beginning of Spring (now?!) which will be my last major upgrade.
I’ve ordered 8 ‘rainbow’ bolts for my headset / matchmaker, and that’ll be enough to add a bit of colour without going overboard. I would have really liked the seat clamp too... but unfortunately I can’t find a 38.6mm rainbow one!
Following the iridescent theme, I bought some new pedals. HT Components ANS-10 Supreme pedals. A few extra g’s above my previous DMR Vault Magnesium pedals, but these look awesome!
DMR Vault Mg = 372g (pair)
HT ANS-10 Supreme = 379g (pair)
+7g - so very little in it!
I think that’s me done for now. I’m still waiting for Praxxis to release the carbon cranks which are due at the beginning of Spring (now?!) which will be my last major upgrade.
I’ve ordered 8 ‘rainbow’ bolts for my headset / matchmaker, and that’ll be enough to add a bit of colour without going overboard. I would have really liked the seat clamp too... but unfortunately I can’t find a 38.6mm rainbow one!
- Thread starter
- #148
You will never be done with this kind of project
You need this part for the final touch
View attachment 27898
Doesn’t look like it’d be capable of holding a range extender in!!
crazymelki
Active member
- Thread starter
- #150
I’m using the AXS Reverb post.
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