Levo expert tubeless using non spesh valves

[escrs]

Anyone done it?

Friend is having issues converting to tubeless on his expert

He has the standard rims with the tubeless tape already fitted but he lost the specialized tubeless valves that came with the bike

Tried using muc off valves and joe blow valves and both leak at the valve hole on the rim

Wondering if the specialized valves have rubber ends that are better fitting?

 

[DanDilla]

Same problem with the Schwalbe ones, one sealed directly, the other one never got to seal properly.
Looked for different shapes of the valves you should get some with a proper seal, for a relatively plain surface.

I went with the e*thirteen ones, both sealed perfectly and they look nice!
E*Thirteen - Bike24

I also fitted matching Alu Valve Caps, As the plastic one ruin the look of them

 

[escrs]

Same problem with the Schwalbe ones, one sealed directly, the other one never got to seal properly.
Looked for different shapes of the valves you should get some with a proper seal, for a relatively plain surface.

I went with the e*thirteen ones, both sealed perfectly and they look nice!
E*Thirteen - Bike24

I also fitted matching Alu Valve Caps, As the plastic one ruin the look of them

We have tried the various rubber fittings that came with the muc off valves but they still leak no matter which ones we used

I used the spesh valves on my rims with no issues, wondering if the spesh rim profile dosent suit muc off or joe blow valves

 

[DanDilla]

Have no idea, from the first look the muc off should fit like the ethirteen ones do.

 

[eabmex]

After one of the original valve stems failed (it sheared at the top, where the core screws) I installed a stans and worked perfectly. The original stems seem nicer with the o ring but the stans are more sturdy and seem to seal without issues, they are what I use on 3 different bikes with Roval wheels. By the way when I mentioned the problem to my dealer he promptly handed me a new stem as they seem to have a bunch from the bikes that are not converted to tubeless.

 

[Slowroller]

I've found that airing up the tire when needed is often enough to break the seal between the valve stem and hole. In the old days of narrow rims, the channel offered more contact than the wider rims we're all probably running. The first tubeless valve stems had a rectangular rubber block to fit in this channel which supported the base, now they're just an unsupported cone which can wiggle. I think this is the root of the problem, not so much who makes the stems. Although don't ever get aluminum ones, they break too easy.

I always wet the valve stem when installing it, but to get a good seal now, I need to tighten the nut more than I used to, it's got to be more than finger tight. The problem with that is that without a tool like pliers, you're not going to get it lose out on a ride if you need to put a tube in.

I've put these on all my tubeless wheels so I can get it as tight as I want, yet still get it off by hand.

Big P-Nut Tubeless Valve Nuts | Tires & Tubes | Problem Solvers

 

[escrs]

All fixed now, with the muc off valves fitted we chucked in a load of stan's fluid (it already had 120mml of muc off in them) and they have stayed up

cheers

 

[steve_sordy]

No matter whose tubeless valves I end up with, I nearly always use plumber's tape (ie ptfe). I pull off 12'" of tape and roll it across my thigh to make a thin rope. Then cut off about half and wind it around the valve stem to make a very flexible washer. Shove the valve in the hole.
One alternative that I have got away with is when I replace the manky original rim tape and fit Gorilla tape instead. I have at least two, and sometime four, layers over the valve hole. Pierce through and then push the valve (sans ptfe) into the valve hole. In both cases, tap with a soft hammer and then tighten up the valve collar. Make sure that the sealant is sloshed around enough to get everywhere and be allowed to do its job. This last step is often missed, but is essential.

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

I used STAN's valves on my Roval transverse wheels and worked fine.

 

[Jeff McD]

All fixed now, with the muc off valves fitted we chucked in a load of stan's fluid (it already had 120mml of muc off in them) and they have stayed up

cheers

So what did you do to get the muc off valves to eventually work when they wouldn't seal initially? Just curious because I have had some trouble with other valves as well & I never figured it out. Like you I returned to the specialized valves and they work fine. Thanks.

 

[Al Boneta]

When we do any tubeless conversion or setup in the shop, we use OrangeSeal valves, Dt-Swiss rim tape and E*13 Tire plasma sealant. I have experimented with every possible combination and this has been trouble free.