Kenevo Öhlins spring change

[R80]

I’ve just got a hold of the correct spring for my weight. Has anyone swapped them over themselves,is it a big job? Are there any step by step guides about?

 

[Geoff]

It's pretty easy. Last week I swapped the standard issue Ohlins spring on my Kenevo for a Cane Creek VALT. I've done the same in the past with the spring on my "Demo 8 II". The Kenevo is actually easier because you don't need to remove the rebound knob to remove the spring nor do you have to deal with the tricky task of aligning the spherical bearing upper shock eye with the retaining bolt when reassembling. If you don't have a work stand you can just use a sturdy chair to rest the bottom bracket on whilst you do do the work. Just make sure that the bike does not fall off the chair either by having someone hold the bike or by lashing the bike to the chair back.

Based on the information in the Ohlins TTX22m and the Kenevo Owners Manuals the below works for me.

• Once you have the back wheel off the ground, loosen the preload adjuster on the spring until you reach the point that you can remove the spring clip at the other end of the spring.
• Place some cloth between the spring and the yoke to prevent the loose spring from scratching the yoke.
• Undo the bolt holding the top tube end (upper shock eye) and carefully lower the shock down making sure that you note the position of the washers on each side of the bearing.
• Remove the washers and place them in a safe place.
• Remove the left and right side bolts that attach the yoke (Shock Extension) to the suspension linkage (S-LINK@Shock Extension).
• Carefully lift the yoke out of the linkage at the same time taking note of position the seals/washers that protect the bearings that are pressed into the yoke.
• Remove the seals/washers and place then in a safe place.
• You can now remove the shock out of the frame.
• Next undo the bolt (Lower Shock Mount bolt) that holds the yoke to the shock.
• With the yoke removed you can now remove the old spring.
• Wind the preload adjuster all the way out and then place the new spring onto the shock.
• Re-attach the the yoke and tighten to the recommended tension as per the Levo/Kenevo User Manual. Apply some grease to the thread of the bolt beforehand.
• Again, position some cloth around the ends of the spring to stop it moving around whilst you reinstall the shock.
• Grease and reinstall the the washers/seals to the yoke then, after applying grease to the bolt threads, reinstall the yoke back into the suspension linkage.
• Grease and reassemble the the other end back into the underside of the top tube. Lift the rear wheel to help align the bolt with the shock eyelet.
• Once the shock is bolted back in remove the cloth and reinstall the spring clip. The weight of the freely suspended rear wheel will hold the shock fully extended and make installing the spring clip much easier. I found this necessary when installing the new 550lb/in x 63mm Cane Creek VALT Spring to the Ohlins TTX on my Kenevo.
• Wind the preload adjuster on the shock until the spring is held firmly in place. Don't over tighten the adjuster. If you have the correct spring you do not need to tighten the adjuster more than a couple of turns past the point where the spring is held snug.
• Remove the bike from the work stand and place the bike on the ground. Push down on the saddle to load up the suspension to confirm it functions as it should and the spring is properly seated.
• Carry out a check of the bolts (excluding the lower shock mount bolt that was checked earlier) that were removed/replaced during this task with a torque wrench to ensure they are tightened correctly as per the specifications detailed in the Levo/Kenevo user manual supplied with your bike.
• Whilst you have the tools and the manual out check the all the other bolts mentioned are correctly torqued.
• Fully kitted up in your ride gear, with the assistance of another person, check and measure the rear shock sag. If you find you need to preload the spring beyond 1-2 full turns to achieve a proper/desired sag you probably don't have the correct spring rate. Personally I aim for a sag of around 25% to 30%.

 

[R80]

Awesome thanks mate!

 

[R80]

All done.......and then I find this! Any ideas? I’m not 100% it’s from the shock

 

[c4s2rs6]

Thats one of seals from the shock upper pivot. There are two of those. One on each side of the pivot bolt with a thin plastic washer on each side of the pivot bolt

 

[R80]

Legend!

 

[lcdavies5]

It's pretty easy. Last week I swapped the standard issue Ohlins spring on my Kenevo for a Cane Creek VALT. I've done the same in the past with the spring on my "Demo 8 II". The Kenevo is actually easier because you don't need to remove the rebound knob to remove the spring nor do you have to deal with the tricky task of aligning the spherical bearing upper shock eye with the retaining bolt when reassembling. If you don't have a work stand you can just use a sturdy chair to rest the bottom bracket on whilst you do do the work. Just make sure that the bike does not fall off the chair either by having someone hold the bike or by lashing the bike to the chair back.

Based on the information in the Ohlins TTX22m and the Kenevo Owners Manuals the below works for me.

• Once you have the back wheel off the ground, loosen the preload adjuster on the spring until you reach the point that you can remove the spring clip at the other end of the spring.
• Place some cloth between the spring and the yoke to prevent the loose spring from scratching the yoke.
• Undo the bolt holding the top tube end (upper shock eye) and carefully lower the shock down making sure that you note the position of the washers on each side of the bearing.
• Remove the washers and place them in a safe place.
• Remove the left and right side bolts that attach the yoke (Shock Extension) to the suspension linkage (S-LINK@Shock Extension).
• Carefully lift the yoke out of the linkage at the same time taking note of position the seals/washers that protect the bearings that are pressed into the yoke.
• Remove the seals/washers and place then in a safe place.
• You can now remove the shock out of the frame.
• Next undo the bolt (Lower Shock Mount bolt) that holds the yoke to the shock.
• With the yoke removed you can now remove the old spring.
• Wind the preload adjuster all the way out and then place the new spring onto the shock.
• Re-attach the the yoke and tighten to the recommended tension as per the Levo/Kenevo User Manual. Apply some grease to the thread of the bolt beforehand.
• Again, position some cloth around the ends of the spring to stop it moving around whilst you reinstall the shock.
• Grease and reinstall the the washers/seals to the yoke then, after applying grease to the bolt threads, reinstall the yoke back into the suspension linkage.
• Grease and reassemble the the other end back into the underside of the top tube. Lift the rear wheel to help align the bolt with the shock eyelet.
• Once the shock is bolted back in remove the cloth and reinstall the spring clip. The weight of the freely suspended rear wheel will hold the shock fully extended and make installing the spring clip much easier. I found this necessary when installing the new 550lb/in x 63mm Cane Creek VALT Spring to the Ohlins TTX on my Kenevo.
• Wind the preload adjuster on the shock until the spring is held firmly in place. Don't over tighten the adjuster. If you have the correct spring you do not need to tighten the adjuster more than a couple of turns past the point where the spring is held snug.
• Remove the bike from the work stand and place the bike on the ground. Push down on the saddle to load up the suspension to confirm it functions as it should and the spring is properly seated.
• Carry out a check of the bolts (excluding the lower shock mount bolt that was checked earlier) that were removed/replaced during this task with a torque wrench to ensure they are tightened correctly as per the specifications detailed in the Levo/Kenevo user manual supplied with your bike.
• Whilst you have the tools and the manual out check the all the other bolts mentioned are correctly torqued.
• Fully kitted up in your ride gear, with the assistance of another person, check and measure the rear shock sag. If you find you need to preload the spring beyond 1-2 full turns to achieve a proper/desired sag you probably don't have the correct spring rate. Personally I aim for a sag of around 25% to 30%.

Absolute legend! Followed this last night and it made it easy. Cheers!

 

[Killswitch73]

I have just changed my spring and to my dispair I have 2 washers left over that I have no clue where they go . I have put the washers on the with both the ring seals on both sides of the yoke but these smaller washers have no place it can’t fit them in and not sure where they would go . I have installed everything else and there don’t seem to be no play . Unless they are not part of the bike and it’s just randomly appeared out of my torque wrench box .

There is no play in the yoke and seems very secure .

 

[Killswitch73]

Scrap that I know where they go .. they go in the upper eye inside the frame . Realised 1 min after posting .

 

[Swissrider]

It's pretty easy. Last week I swapped the standard issue Ohlins spring on my Kenevo for a Cane Creek VALT. I've done the same in the past with the spring on my "Demo 8 II". The Kenevo is actually easier because you don't need to remove the rebound knob to remove the spring nor do you have to deal with the tricky task of aligning the spherical bearing upper shock eye with the retaining bolt when reassembling. If you don't have a work stand you can just use a sturdy chair to rest the bottom bracket on whilst you do do the work. Just make sure that the bike does not fall off the chair either by having someone hold the bike or by lashing the bike to the chair back.

Based on the information in the Ohlins TTX22m and the Kenevo Owners Manuals the below works for me.

• Once you have the back wheel off the ground, loosen the preload adjuster on the spring until you reach the point that you can remove the spring clip at the other end of the spring.
• Place some cloth between the spring and the yoke to prevent the loose spring from scratching the yoke.
• Undo the bolt holding the top tube end (upper shock eye) and carefully lower the shock down making sure that you note the position of the washers on each side of the bearing.
• Remove the washers and place them in a safe place.
• Remove the left and right side bolts that attach the yoke (Shock Extension) to the suspension linkage (S-LINK@Shock Extension).
• Carefully lift the yoke out of the linkage at the same time taking note of position the seals/washers that protect the bearings that are pressed into the yoke.
• Remove the seals/washers and place then in a safe place.
• You can now remove the shock out of the frame.
• Next undo the bolt (Lower Shock Mount bolt) that holds the yoke to the shock.
• With the yoke removed you can now remove the old spring.
• Wind the preload adjuster all the way out and then place the new spring onto the shock.
• Re-attach the the yoke and tighten to the recommended tension as per the Levo/Kenevo User Manual. Apply some grease to the thread of the bolt beforehand.
• Again, position some cloth around the ends of the spring to stop it moving around whilst you reinstall the shock.
• Grease and reinstall the the washers/seals to the yoke then, after applying grease to the bolt threads, reinstall the yoke back into the suspension linkage.
• Grease and reassemble the the other end back into the underside of the top tube. Lift the rear wheel to help align the bolt with the shock eyelet.
• Once the shock is bolted back in remove the cloth and reinstall the spring clip. The weight of the freely suspended rear wheel will hold the shock fully extended and make installing the spring clip much easier. I found this necessary when installing the new 550lb/in x 63mm Cane Creek VALT Spring to the Ohlins TTX on my Kenevo.
• Wind the preload adjuster on the shock until the spring is held firmly in place. Don't over tighten the adjuster. If you have the correct spring you do not need to tighten the adjuster more than a couple of turns past the point where the spring is held snug.
• Remove the bike from the work stand and place the bike on the ground. Push down on the saddle to load up the suspension to confirm it functions as it should and the spring is properly seated.
• Carry out a check of the bolts (excluding the lower shock mount bolt that was checked earlier) that were removed/replaced during this task with a torque wrench to ensure they are tightened correctly as per the specifications detailed in the Levo/Kenevo user manual supplied with your bike.
• Whilst you have the tools and the manual out check the all the other bolts mentioned are correctly torqued.
• Fully kitted up in your ride gear, with the assistance of another person, check and measure the rear shock sag. If you find you need to preload the spring beyond 1-2 full turns to achieve a proper/desired sag you probably don't have the correct spring rate. Personally I aim for a sag of around 25% to 30%.

Excellent post. I would just add that suspending the bike from the ceiling works better than a bike stand (or maybe chair method) because if you use a strap you can fine tune where the suspension lies. I found trickiest task was fitting the top suspension eye into the frame because you’ve got to hold the four washers each side in place at the same time as sliding the top eye into the frame. Also adjusting the strap can adjust the suspension so that the top bolt lines up with the shock eye in the frame - this has got to be exactly right to push the bolt through.

 

[RoJo]

It's pretty easy. Last week I swapped the standard issue Ohlins spring on my Kenevo for a Cane Creek VALT. I've done the same in the past with the spring on my "Demo 8 II". The Kenevo is actually easier because you don't need to remove the rebound knob to remove the spring nor do you have to deal with the tricky task of aligning the spherical bearing upper shock eye with the retaining bolt when reassembling. If you don't have a work stand you can just use a sturdy chair to rest the bottom bracket on whilst you do do the work. Just make sure that the bike does not fall off the chair either by having someone hold the bike or by lashing the bike to the chair back.

Based on the information in the Ohlins TTX22m and the Kenevo Owners Manuals the below works for me.

• Once you have the back wheel off the ground, loosen the preload adjuster on the spring until you reach the point that you can remove the spring clip at the other end of the spring.
• Place some cloth between the spring and the yoke to prevent the loose spring from scratching the yoke.
• Undo the bolt holding the top tube end (upper shock eye) and carefully lower the shock down making sure that you note the position of the washers on each side of the bearing.
• Remove the washers and place them in a safe place.
• Remove the left and right side bolts that attach the yoke (Shock Extension) to the suspension linkage (S-LINK@Shock Extension).
• Carefully lift the yoke out of the linkage at the same time taking note of position the seals/washers that protect the bearings that are pressed into the yoke.
• Remove the seals/washers and place then in a safe place.
• You can now remove the shock out of the frame.
• Next undo the bolt (Lower Shock Mount bolt) that holds the yoke to the shock.
• With the yoke removed you can now remove the old spring.
• Wind the preload adjuster all the way out and then place the new spring onto the shock.
• Re-attach the the yoke and tighten to the recommended tension as per the Levo/Kenevo User Manual. Apply some grease to the thread of the bolt beforehand.
• Again, position some cloth around the ends of the spring to stop it moving around whilst you reinstall the shock.
• Grease and reinstall the the washers/seals to the yoke then, after applying grease to the bolt threads, reinstall the yoke back into the suspension linkage.
• Grease and reassemble the the other end back into the underside of the top tube. Lift the rear wheel to help align the bolt with the shock eyelet.
• Once the shock is bolted back in remove the cloth and reinstall the spring clip. The weight of the freely suspended rear wheel will hold the shock fully extended and make installing the spring clip much easier. I found this necessary when installing the new 550lb/in x 63mm Cane Creek VALT Spring to the Ohlins TTX on my Kenevo.
• Wind the preload adjuster on the shock until the spring is held firmly in place. Don't over tighten the adjuster. If you have the correct spring you do not need to tighten the adjuster more than a couple of turns past the point where the spring is held snug.
• Remove the bike from the work stand and place the bike on the ground. Push down on the saddle to load up the suspension to confirm it functions as it should and the spring is properly seated.
• Carry out a check of the bolts (excluding the lower shock mount bolt that was checked earlier) that were removed/replaced during this task with a torque wrench to ensure they are tightened correctly as per the specifications detailed in the Levo/Kenevo user manual supplied with your bike.
• Whilst you have the tools and the manual out check the all the other bolts mentioned are correctly torqued.
• Fully kitted up in your ride gear, with the assistance of another person, check and measure the rear shock sag. If you find you need to preload the spring beyond 1-2 full turns to achieve a proper/desired sag you probably don't have the correct spring rate. Personally I aim for a sag of around 25% to 30%.

Thanks for the useful guide. I'd just add that you shouldn't really grease threads that are meant to be blue loctited. When you grease a thread, because you drop the friction then for a given torque in Nm, you get much higher axial load through the bolt which can result in the bolt snapping/thread stripping. Otherwise great guide.