Is there a trend towards narrower rims and tyres?

[Al-Rider]

I'm thinking about buying new wheels for my ebike as my current rims have taken a lot of punishment (even with cushcores installed). I've been looking for new 27.5 wheels with 35mm internal width, as it's what I'm riding now, and strangely enough there's almost nothing available online. Mostly it's 30mm internal width.

I was considering DT Swiss E1700 thinking it would be easy to buy new rims when needed, but It's also hard to find 35mm rims, while there are plenty of 30mm rims available.

I then went to look at 2021 specs in several brands and now see many speccing the bikes with 30mm rims and in many cases with 2.4 rear tires.

Is this a sign of a new trend?

 

[1oldfart]

With 27.5 i see no good reason to go slimmer.
Maybe you might find in used?
There is always changes to pretend the new is **better**

 

[RickBullotta]

I run 40mm rims when using 2.8" tires and 31mm rims when using 2.4 and 2.6" tires, FWIW. I'm now 95% on the narrower tires these days. I have found that it provides better turn initiation for me. I'll get out the 2.8's generally only on sloppy days (and the 4.6's on the fatbike for the snowy days!).

 

[STATO]

35-40 mm internal width rims became popualr with 'plus' size 2.8/3.0 tyres, that trend has pretty much died in terms on new bike sales, so very little in the way of new supporting products. You can still get rims and tyres, and probably someone is selling wheels, but its unlikely. 30mm internal is still fine for 2.8, but 35mm is getting a little wide for the more common 2.5/2.6.

 

[Doomanic]

I've just taken 2.8" tyres off some 35mm rims and fitted 2.6" tyres in their place. Once I commit to a front wheel diameter I'll be buying wheels 30mm or narrower rims and running narrower tyres.

 

[RickBullotta]

Always a good general reference:

Tire & Rim Fit Chart – WTB

 

[Eddy Current]

Basically get cover the 50% of the tire width on the rim, recommended a bit more

example: 2.6 Tire x2.54= 66/2=33 internal rim

 

[Gary]

30mm isn't narrow.

 

[Mcharza]

I have switched to 30 mm wide rims couple of year ago. Running 2.5 WT or 2.6 tires. For me it's still wide combination.
And more precise steering.

 

[Varaxis]

Maybe the sweet spot has shifted. I'm currently using 2.4 tires and i29 rim, scaling back after experimenting with wider.

I've been curious if the increase in mass has led to things feeling harsher. This feeling led me to reinforced tires and rims. The law of inertia... if I hit a square edge bump with a wheel weighing like 7 lbs, and the wheel is reluctant to get out of the way, and the bump is also reluctant, what happens? I've had a few spoke breakage, some rim failures, some tubeless tire pinch flat...

One bonus of a narrower tire is that you don't have to lean as much to turn. I like the narrower tire up front for direct and precise steering. Wider tires felt more like plowers, but couldn't withstand such riding.

 

[Gary]

How exactly has the sweetspot shifted?
After all your pissing about with stupid plus tyres you're basically back where the sweetspot for DH has been for the past 22 years. Plenty of us never changed that in the first place.

 

[Kernow]

Something I’ve noticed , my last bike was on 35mm rims 27.5 with 2.6 tyres I needed inserts to cope with some of our Rocky trails .
the new bike is a 29er on 30mm rims with lighter tyres 2.6 . I run same pressures and have yet to have any problems on the same rocky sections . Wether that’s 29er or narrower rims that’s improved things I don’t know . 30mm rim with up 2.6 tyre seems to be sweet spot , gives you the option to run narrower tyres . Bigger than 2.6. Tyres didnt work for me

 

[Gary]

It's greater support offered by the tyre profile the narrower rim creates Kernow.
Basically your tyre is taller on the narrower rim.

 

[steve_sordy]

On a 29er, my 2.5" wide tyres work just fine on the 30mm rims.

30mm rims also worked just fine on my 27.5x2.2 mtb

Both combos are in the "Optimal Performance" zone according the the WTB rim/tyre charts. But I suspect that the type of tyre has an impact upon just how well it works.

 

[Kernow]

It's greater support offered by the tyre profile the narrower rim creates Kernow.
Basically your tyre is taller on the narrower rim.

Yes I get that , it goes against what you think would be best , I did expect the wider rim to be better . I can feel tyre roll easier at lower pressures as I corner on the drier ground , which at first I put down to no inserts , but I think it’s more about rim width defining tyre shape .

certainly going to stick with 30mm rims

 

[Gary]

You've got to also remember, casing construction and stiffness, actual tread width (tread over casing being stiffer than casing with no tread) and the ratio of tread to casing per actual tyre volume play a really big part in how supportive a tyre is and in what direction whatever rim it is mounted on.
and tyre roll and tyre squirm are very different things than resistance to pinch flatting or flatspotting rims.

Wider than 30mm rims and wider than 2.6" tyres are mainly marketing hype and borne from the hype surrounding fatbikes at the time. Pretty much the ploddiest bikes ever created and which are only actually any good for gaining grip over soft surfaces like sand and snow when run at super low pressures but point them down hill in normal terrain and they corner horrendously.
The fastest riders in the world hitting the gnarliest tracks in the world harder than any Emtb rider ever don't use either wide rims or plus sized tyres. So for actual mountain biking why on earth would they suddenly be a great idea for mediocre Emtb riders apart from comfort? (or possibly lack of climbing skill).

it's really not as simple as all the manufacturer and industry marketing that's been thrown out to snare money from naive noobs and enthusiasts who simply must gert in on the latest cycling related gains/fad.

My pref is still actually a 25mm rim and 2.3-2.5 tyre... but 30mm isn't a deal breaker.

 

[1oldfart]

You've got to also remember, casing construction and stiffness, actual tread width (tread over casing being stiffer than casing with no tread) and the ratio of tread to casing per actual tyre volume play a really big part in how supportive a tyre is and in what direction whatever rim it is mounted on.
and tyre roll and tyre squirm are very different things than resistance to pinch flatting or flatspotting rims.

Wider than 30mm rims and wider than 2.6" tyres are mainly marketing hype and borne from the hype surrounding fatbikes at the time. Pretty much the ploddiest bikes ever created and which are only actually any good for gaining grip over soft surfaces like sand and snow when run at super low pressures but point them down hill in normal terrain and they corner horrendously.
The fastest riders in the world hitting the gnarliest tracks in the world harder than any Emtb rider ever don't use either wide rims or plus sized tyres. So for actual mountain biking why on earth would they suddenly be a great idea for mediocre Emtb riders apart from comfort? (or possibly lack of climbing skill).

it's really not as simple as all the manufacturer and industry marketing that's been thrown out to snare money from naive noobs and enthusiasts who simply must gert in on the latest cycling related gains/fad.

My pref is still actually a 25mm rim and 2.3-2.5 tyre... but 30mm isn't a deal breaker.

I am retired so i ride a lot(lot of free time).
Lots of people say they love to ride but in fact they are busy with work, the kids, problem with their bike and the result is i see way more walkers than riders. Many do not have many years of experience so when you mention people with poor skills you are talking about the majority. Many find they are faster with more rubber, part of that is the extra confidence.

 

[Kernow]

You've got to also remember, casing construction and stiffness, actual tread width (tread over casing being stiffer than casing with no tread) and the ratio of tread to casing per actual tyre volume play a really big part in how supportive a tyre is and in what direction whatever rim it is mounted on.
and tyre roll and tyre squirm are very different things than resistance to pinch flatting or flatspotting rims.

Wider than 30mm rims and wider than 2.6" tyres are mainly marketing hype and borne from the hype surrounding fatbikes at the time. Pretty much the ploddiest bikes ever created and which are only actually any good for gaining grip over soft surfaces like sand and snow when run at super low pressures but point them down hill in normal terrain and they corner horrendously.
The fastest riders in the world hitting the gnarliest tracks in the world harder than any Emtb rider ever don't use either wide rims or plus sized tyres. So for actual mountain biking why on earth would they suddenly be a great idea for mediocre Emtb riders apart from comfort? (or possibly lack of climbing skill).

it's really not as simple as all the manufacturer and industry marketing that's been thrown out to snare money from naive noobs and enthusiasts who simply must gert in on the latest cycling related gains/fad.

My pref is still actually a 25mm rim and 2.3-2.5 tyre... but 30mm isn't a deal breaker.

I agree with you on tyre size But iam only now learning about rim width, generally I trust a manufacturer to get it right and lots of enduro bikes seem to run 34 or 35 rims , so I was surprised to find my trek had 30.
thanks you’ve also answered a dilemma for me there , I have a pair of wheels with 25mm rims and wondering what size tyres they would take I thought 2.4 was maybe the limit . Gotta find that elusive cassette first

 

[steve_sordy]

........... I have a pair of wheels with 25mm rims and wondering what size tyres they would take I thought 2.4 was maybe the limit .............

@Kernow You may have seen this before:

Tire & Rim Fit Chart

WHAT IS IT? The WTB Tire & Rim Compatibility Chart is used to determine what tire and rim width combinations provide optimal performance and compatibility. By matching your tire section width to your rim width you can determine optimal, compatible, or not optimal fitting options to ensure the...

www.wtb.com

(page down for the mtb chart)

It shows that for a 25mm internal rim width, the "optimal performance" tyre width is 47mm to 60mm (2.4"), but that "compatible" goes on up to 70mm (2.8"). These sizes will be influenced by tyre type; I sure wouldn't fancy a super light 2.8" tyre on a 25mm rim, even on a non e-bike.

 

[Kernow]

@Kernow You may have seen this before:

Tire & Rim Fit Chart

WHAT IS IT? The WTB Tire & Rim Compatibility Chart is used to determine what tire and rim width combinations provide optimal performance and compatibility. By matching your tire section width to your rim width you can determine optimal, compatible, or not optimal fitting options to ensure the...

www.wtb.com

(page down for the mtb chart)

It shows that for a 25mm internal rim width, the "optimal performance" tyre width is 47mm to 60mm (2.4"), but that "compatible" goes on up to 70mm (2.8"). These sizes will be influenced by tyre type; I sure wouldn't fancy a super light 2.8" tyre on a 25mm rim, even on a non e-bike.

Thanks not seen that before , wheels were a gift so using up part worn 2.4 / 2.5 tyres for the summer will be great

 

[Raffe]

To be honest the past 25years the bike industry have gone back and forth between narrower and wider rims/tyres set up. I think I’ve experienced it at least 3-4 times during this time.
I laughed out load the the first time I experienced the trend switched towards a narrow set up again and all of the sudden all the negatives was forgotten. After that I took any technical benefits from the bike industry with a grain of salt

 

[BeBiker]

I never understood the 2.8 on my 27.5" Emtb.

"you can run low pressure" : the up/down damping is fine, but the left/right movement makes me vomit, so I (have to) run +2.5 bar.
Maybe for sand or snow it's ok, but we don't have that here

I have 27.5+ SUNRINGLE DUROC 40 wheels, against the margin spec recommendations I mounted a 27.5x2.2 at the front and that's already a lot better for mud, track, trail.

 

[daju]

Does anyone know what size tires they run at Red Bull Rampage? Do they use inserts?

 

[Mcharza]

Does anyone know what size tires they run at Red Bull Rampage? Do they use inserts?

Probably DH tires and pressure 35-40 PSI and use heavy-duty sealant....At least according to the Pinkbike text

 

[Gary]

A few riders still use 26" and 26/27.5 mullet set ups at Rampage.
Pressures are generally far higher than you'd use DH racing. Partly for impact resistance, partly for handling traits, partly for rolling speed.
Suspension is run stiffer too.

Individual set ups and tyre sizes/pressures are very personal though as riders come from a wide variety of core disciplines and cross overs.
Eg. DJ, DH, freeride, Slope, BMX and Moto

Smaller wheels and tyres spin better, and are far stronger and lighter so that plays a part for certain riders too.

 

[Utah Rider]

In answer to the OP Ed's question, eiecarbon can make what you are looking for. I've bought their widest rims a few years back with 32 spokes. Make sure you ask for no spoke holes (UST). You'll never need rim tape for tubeless. I don't really care what the dh pros use. 99.9% of riders don't race. For me it's about side wall protection and comfort. Also, wet rock traction. Sure, when you are in a g out situation there is no predicting if your bike will steer left our right but that just means you are riding too fast.? There is nothing like bombing a section of round river rock with plus tires. Cheers

 

[Dirtnvert]

UST is a great system. Rim tape is the issue with tubeless systems atm. However, to get ust youre getting mavic rims with maxtal. Maybe theyve redesigned the profile but my previous ones were so stiff and the rim sidewall so deep that they would pinch through the tire. Mavic finally has wider rims(30mm) so maybe thats been addressed. Be nice if they could use traditional spokes too.
I tried 2.6 tires but i find them too imprecise unless it has a dh casing and the correst rim width. I couldnt inagine 2.8. If i run 2.6 with dh casing front and back it would be a 35mm inner front rim and a 30mm inner rear rim. The 35mm front rim spreads and supports the side wall for edging through turns. With a 30mm inner rim/2.6 tire it gives the tire sidewall some roundness and the tire has some compliance to track through ruts or offcamber rocks. Thats also the reason i dislike carbon rims, no compliance.
Im ok with 2.6 tires (dh casing, proper rim) but im still in the 2.5 camp. And like 2.6 im ok with 2.4. 2.4 rear i have a 26mm inner rim and 2.4 front its a 30mm. 2.5 id be 26-30mm inner rear and 30-35mm inner width rim. Nothing lighter than 1100g for a tire, i prefer 1300-1400g dh casing tires on my eeb. Nothing worse than a squirmy front tire or too flexy/small side knobs. I want it to edge like a ski. A ski with shit torsional rigidy is a shit edging ski, same as side knobs

 

[1oldfart]

One problem is the global approach.
They change frequently to sell more new products.
There is a bunch of garbage **reviews** and a ton of front page
selling this than that. People are somewhat forced to buy in because that is
what is on most retailers floors.
I am in Quebec Canada and in 2016 most fatbikes were rigid used for about
4 months on snow/ice. Now a lot more ride them 12 months.
A result is some invest in a carbon frame or carbon wheels and they cannot use
2.5 or 2.4. Even 2.6 are limit, they lower the BB.
I kind of agree with post # 26. After the 4.8 winter, 2.8 are nice.

 

[Gary]

What are you even talking about?

FIVE of my mtbs are still running 26" wheels New tyres are still readily available for all of them