Is 25 mm more travel worth buying a new dropper?

[RebornRider]

I currently have a BikeYoke Revive 125mm dropper in my size small Turbo Levo. I have ridiculously short legs, which results in negative standover clearance. Because of these legs, I was happy to see that I could fit a 150mm Oneup dropper. But ...

I don't have enough tech riding experience to know if 25mm more drop would actually be useful and worth spending money on. I like techy trails, rocks, drops, and jumps, but I'm not particularly skillful yet. If you watch YouTube, I'm much closer to Van Girl Yuka than to Blake Samson or Chris Smith.

Do any of you think 25mm more drop is worth spending money on? I'm guessing it will be about US$100 assuming I can sell the BikeYoke.

 

[Philly G]

So do you currently have 25mm of the post outer showing above the frame? If so, on your next downhill run, loosen the pinch bolt and push the post fully into the frame. This will give the same result as a 150mm dropper with seat fully down . If you notice the difference, then yes, it's worth upgrading at some stage. 25mm doesn't sound like a lot but can make all the difference if it's a bit tricky getting behind the saddle for a steep and techy descent

 

[Gyre]

Assuming you don't like pedaling with a low saddle, absolutely. I started off with 125mm and 150mm droppers. The 125mm dropper felt too high even on steep fire roads while the 150 felt just adequate.

I'd say that if you can live with the extra weight and the post is made well (and it seems OneUp and BikeYoke are both really good brands), it's generally worth getting the longest post that will fit the seat tube and your preferred saddle rail to BB distance.

 

[RustyIron]

I don't have enough tech riding experience to know if 25mm more drop would actually be useful and worth spending money on. I like techy trails, rocks, drops, and jumps, but I'm not particularly skillful yet.

It sounds like you ride fun trails and would benefit from a greater range to move the bike around beneath yourself.

Since you're "not particularly skillful yet," you'll probably benefit more from an extra 25mm than would a more experienced rider.

 

[steve_sordy]

Whatever you do, don't buy a dropper that fully inserted into the seat post and fully extended has the saddle too high for comfort. Yes, I know that the dropper function is to lower the saddle, but having to adjust to the correct height while on the go is not easy, or quick. After a while it becomes a nuisance that jars every single time.

 

[Philly G]

Whatever you do, don't buy a dropper that fully inserted into the seat post and fully extended has the saddle too high for comfort.

A good dropper like the OneUp or PNW Loam have adjustable travel, allowing you to avoid this issue and get your saddle height dialled. Thr PNW has 25mm of adjustment in 5mm increments, so you might even want to get the 170mm dropper, which you can adjust down to 145mm.

 

[JoeBlow]

Whatever you do, don't buy a dropper that fully inserted into the seat post and fully extended has the saddle too high for comfort. Yes, I know that the dropper function is to lower the saddle, but having to adjust to the correct height while on the go is not easy, or quick. After a while it becomes a nuisance that jars every single time.

I don't find it a problem doing that. In fact on a ride I probably go from fully down to fully up and many points in between to suit the terrain. If I put my butt where I want it to be at any given time and release the post I find that it stops just where I want it.

Al

 

[R120]

I would say its worth it, for me I want the saddle as ar down as I can get it when dropped

 

[steve_sordy]

I don't find it a problem doing that. In fact on a ride I probably go from fully down to fully up and many points in between to suit the terrain. If I put my butt where I want it to be at any given time and release the post I find that it stops just where I want it.

Al

Yep, I do all of that. What I was referring to is returning to a height that might be 5-10mm below full extension while pedalling furiously.

 

[LoamLab]

I have a 180 OneUp that I had to change the travel to 170 to fit my latest frame. I don't miss that travel, but if I had to go back to a 150 I would miss that a great deal as I found it a big advantage in corners when I went from 150 to 180. 125 would drive me nuts and would not allow me to get into my preferred position for cornering. I am 175cm tall.

 

[RebornRider]

I'm the OP - thanks for all the input! I could lower my current 125mm dropper in the seat tube by 25mm, and I liked what that did. I ordered the 150mm Oneup.

 

[Doomanic]

I would say its worth it, for me I want the saddle as ar down as I can get it when dropped

Agreed. I found the 150mm dropper on the KSL to be sub-optimal but I didn’t have the option of inserting it further into the seat tube as it was already bottomed out.

 

[Dan63]

Both the OneUp and The BikeYoke droppers have a comparative (super low) stack height. Either of these droppers will generally be able to give you another 30mm+ of drop and still fit into the same frame dimensions as other brand droppers.

I moved from a 150mm Fox transfer to a 185mm BikeYoke and noticed the difference. Easily fits into the same space with plenty of room to spare.

 

[R120]

Agreed. I found the 150mm dropper on the KSL to be sub-optimal but I didn’t have the option of inserting it further into the seat tube as it was already bottomed out.

The lack of insertion on my Vitus is the single most annoying thing about it - whatever I get next I will definitely get a bike where the seat post doesn’t involve a compromise

 

[JoeBlow]

This may be a dim question. Dropper posts are a new thing to me as someone returning to the game, but when people are looking for "more travel" is this in order to get the seat higher when extended or lower when compressed? I noticed someone suggesting lowering the post further into the frame but I cannot do this as it obstructs the point where the cable is attached and when the post is extended I do find it just a tad too high for comfort.

Al

 

[Doomanic]

People generally want more travel to get the seat lower for riding very steep terrain.
Some of the better dropper posts have been cleverly designed with this in mind so the part that goes in to the seat tube is as short as possible for the required drop.
In your case, it sounds like you could do with one for optimal seat position when raised.
One Up Components I think make the shortest posts for a given drop.

 

[Jamze]

This may be a dim question. Dropper posts are a new thing to me as someone returning to the game, but when people are looking for "more travel" is this in order to get the seat higher when extended or lower when compressed? I noticed someone suggesting lowering the post further into the frame but I cannot do this as it obstructs the point where the cable is attached and when the post is extended I do find it just a tad too high for comfort.

Al

So in your case, a post with less travel/insertion will allow you to get the correct height when extended. If it bothers you that is. Or you can just drop the post a little bit. I'm a big fan of the adjustable travel posts from PNW etc.

 

[Gyre]

This may be a dim question. Dropper posts are a new thing to me as someone returning to the game, but when people are looking for "more travel" is this in order to get the seat higher when extended or lower when compressed? I noticed someone suggesting lowering the post further into the frame but I cannot do this as it obstructs the point where the cable is attached and when the post is extended I do find it just a tad too high for comfort.

When people talk about "More travel" on a dropper, they usually mean a lower saddle when compressed, but it doesn't have to be. It's just ... more travel. For example, if your preferred pedaling saddle height minus your preferred descending saddle height is longer than your post's travel, you'll have to compromise on one or the other.

When you say that you can't lower the post into the frame further because of an obstruction where the cable is attached, I'm not sure if you mean you have an externally routed cable (where the cable is outside of the frame and attaches to the dropper near the seat collar or the saddle clamp) or an internally routed cable (where the cable runs inside the frame and attaches at the bottom of the dropper). If you have an externally routed dropper, it might be possible to lower the dropper by switching to an internally routed model (depends on a few things). If you have an internally routed dropper, it might be possible to lower the dropper a few more mm by rotating the actuator on the bottom (if you have a post that allows the actuator to rotate) to get a little more clearance for the cable.

 

[RustyIron]

This may be a dim question. Dropper posts are a new thing to me as someone returning to the game, but when people are looking for "more travel" is this in order to get the seat higher when extended or lower when compressed? I noticed someone suggesting lowering the post further into the frame but I cannot do this as it obstructs the point where the cable is attached and when the post is extended I do find it just a tad too high for comfort.

A dropper seatpost should be set up while it is fully extended. You adjust the height and saddle exactly the same as you would if you were setting up a traditional static seatpost. After all, you still need to pedal the bike. The amount of travel is how far the saddle can be lowered, getting it out of the way so you can shift your weight and move the bike beneath you. Optimally, you'd want the saddle as low as possible, but there are dimensional limitations. Peddling long and hard with the saddle too low or too high will wreak havoc with your knees.

Some people like to slam their saddle, but it's usually a fashion statement rather than to improve riding.

 

[KennyB]

The other advantage with a low stack height dropper, is that getting on and off the bike and setting off is much safer and easier. I have a 180 One up on a medium Levo at max insertion, and wee legs - it's perfect.