Have you tried the "Disco Inferno"?

[steve_sordy]

My grandson was complaining about his squeaky rear brake. His pads were like this:

They were oil soaked.
I had previously checked that his brake calliper was not leaking, so I'm fairly sure that it was contamination. I have repeatedly told him not to put so much oil on his chain! Anyway, I ordered some more pads, but in the meantime I thought I'd have a go at cleaning them.

I used the "Disco Inferno" to get this result:

He will need to bed them in again, but I reckon he should use these before the new pads, just in case I was wrong about the callipers.

I know that pads can be cheap, but sometimes you just don't have any, or not quickly enough! Hence the Disco Inferno!

Disco Inferno

Place the pads, brake surface upwards) onto a concrete surface or anything else that will not burn or melt. Pour some iso-propyl alcohol onto the pads (it's the major component of brake cleaner, but I've never tried brake cleaner) then get your gas blow lamp out and set it on maximum onto the pads. My flame size is small so I find it better to heat each pad separately. Keep the heat on until the edges of the pads glow red. Initially all the oil will burn off as black smoke and when you remove the flame the pads will continue to burn with a yellow flame. Once the edges of the pads have glowed red and they no longer continue to burn when you remove the torch, they are done.

When the pads are cool, place some abrasive paper on a smooth flat surface and rub the pad surface over it in a circular fashion. Blow the dust off frequently. Keep going until you are happy that the pads are looking good.
Bed the pads in as normal and away you go!

 

[Mikerb]

My grandson was complaining about his squeaky rear brake. His pads were like this:

View attachment 148539

They were oil soaked.
I had previously checked that his brake calliper was not leaking, so I'm fairly sure that it was contamination. I have repeatedly told him not to put so much oil on his chain! Anyway, I ordered some more pads, but in the meantime I thought I'd have a go at cleaning them.

I used the "Disco Inferno" to get this result:

View attachment 148540

He will need to bed them in again, but I reckon he should use these before the new pads, just in case I was wrong about the callipers.

I know that pads can be cheap, but sometimes you just don't have any, or not quickly enough! Hence the Disco Inferno!

Disco Inferno

Place the pads, brake surface upwards) onto a concrete surface or anything else that will not burn or melt. Pour some iso-propyl alcohol onto the pads (it's the major component of brake cleaner, but I've never tried brake cleaner) then get your gas blow lamp out and set it on maximum onto the pads. My flame size is small so I find it better to heat each pad separately. Keep the heat on until the edges of the pads glow red. Initially all the oil will burn off as black smoke and when you remove the flame the pads will continue to burn with a yellow flame. Once the edges of the pads have glowed red and they no longer continue to burn when you remove the torch, they are done.

When the pads are cool, place some abrasive paper on a smooth flat surface and rub the pad surface over it in a circular fashion. Blow the dust off frequently. Keep going until you are happy that the pads are looking good.
Bed the pads in as normal and away you go!

maybe add some advice on prevention as well??
ANY spray application anywhere near the bike can contaminate both rotors and pads. If you are going to use a spray ( whether lubricant or silicon shine etc, use rags or shop towel to cover rotors and callipers first. After cleaning etc a bike, use shop towel sprayed with IPA to wipe the pad contact area on the rotors. If you use wet lube on the chain, leave for a few minutes and then wipe the chain clean with a clean rag. Anywhere other than the rollers the lube serves no purpose. If you use dry lube, apply and leave as long as you can before a ride..preferably hours, that gives time for the "carrier" to evaporate and the wax to dry.

 

[Streddaz]

My grandson was complaining about his squeaky rear brake. His pads were like this:

View attachment 148539

They were oil soaked.
I had previously checked that his brake calliper was not leaking, so I'm fairly sure that it was contamination. I have repeatedly told him not to put so much oil on his chain! Anyway, I ordered some more pads, but in the meantime I thought I'd have a go at cleaning them.

I used the "Disco Inferno" to get this result:

View attachment 148540

He will need to bed them in again, but I reckon he should use these before the new pads, just in case I was wrong about the callipers.

I know that pads can be cheap, but sometimes you just don't have any, or not quickly enough! Hence the Disco Inferno!

Disco Inferno

Place the pads, brake surface upwards) onto a concrete surface or anything else that will not burn or melt. Pour some iso-propyl alcohol onto the pads (it's the major component of brake cleaner, but I've never tried brake cleaner) then get your gas blow lamp out and set it on maximum onto the pads. My flame size is small so I find it better to heat each pad separately. Keep the heat on until the edges of the pads glow red. Initially all the oil will burn off as black smoke and when you remove the flame the pads will continue to burn with a yellow flame. Once the edges of the pads have glowed red and they no longer continue to burn when you remove the torch, they are done.

When the pads are cool, place some abrasive paper on a smooth flat surface and rub the pad surface over it in a circular fashion. Blow the dust off frequently. Keep going until you are happy that the pads are looking good.
Bed the pads in as normal and away you go!

How muck oil is he putting on his chain! Does he have a big drum of it and just dunks the rear of the bike into it?

 

[Bones]

Also be aware that concrete explodes if it gets too hot from a concentrated flame.
Trust me as I've had plenty of hot bits sticking to me from gas welding on the floor

 

[irie]

maybe add some advice on prevention as well??

Pssst ...

I have repeatedly told him not to put so much oil on his chain!

 

[Weeksy]

Hold on, the chain lube/oil is getting onto his pads on the opposite side of the freehub/wheel and down between the caliper and onto his pads ? I'm slightly sceptical.

 

[Paulquattro]

Mmmm
You do realize the pad linings are only bonded to the back plates , getting them glowing red wont do a lot for the adhesive i wouldn't have thought
But hey if it works for you who im i too say anything

 

[Stihldog]

Oil my chain…thanks, I almost forgot.

I’ve got a set of MT7’s pads (performance) that were likely contaminated with road oils, diesel fuel or something. Cleaned the rotors with isopropyl alcohol and changed the pads. The calliper’s were not leaking. Howling noise disappeared and the brakes worked better.

I might try the “disco-inferno” method that @steve_sordy suggested …what have I got to lose.. But I probably won’t heat the pads on the concrete floor though. Bench vice might be better.

 

[Tepi]

Pojanpoikani valitti vinkuvasta takajarrustaan. Hänen tyynynsä olivat seuraavanlaiset:

View attachment 148539

Ne olivat öljyssä.
Olin aiemmin tarkistanut, että hänen jarrusatulansa ei vuoda, joten olen melko varma, että se oli likaa. Olen toistuvasti sanonut hänelle, että älä laita niin paljon öljyä ketjuinsa! Joka tapauksessa, tilasin lisää tyynyjä, mutta sillä välin ajattelin puhdistaa ne.

Käytin "Disco Infernoa" saadakseni tämän tuloksen:

View attachment 148540

Hänen täytyy pestä ne uudelleen, mutta uskon, että hänen pitäisi käyttää niitä ennen uusia pehmusteita, siltä varalta, että olin väärässä työntösatulien suhteen.

Tiedän, että tyynyt voivat olla halpoja, mutta joskus sinulla ei vain ole niitä tai niitä ei ole tarpeeksi nopeasti! Siksi Disco Inferno!

Disco Inferno

Aseta tyynyt, jarrupinta ylöspäin) betonipinnalle tai muulle, joka ei pala tai sula. Kaada isopropyylialkoholia tyynyille (se on jarrunpuhdistusaineen pääkomponentti, mutta en ole koskaan kokeillut jarrunpuhdistusainetta) ja ota sitten kaasupuhalluslamppu pois ja aseta se jarrupalojen päälle. Liekin kokoni on pieni, joten mielestäni on parempi lämmittää jokainen tyyny erikseen. Pidä lämpö päällä, kunnes tyynyjen reunat hehkuvat punaisina. Aluksi kaikki öljy palaa pois mustana savuna ja kun poistat liekin, tyynyt jatkavat palamista keltaisella liekillä. Kun tyynyjen reunat ovat hehkuneet punaisiksi eivätkä ne enää jatka palamista, kun poistat taskulampun, ne ovat valmiita.

Kun tyynyt ovat jäähtyneet, aseta hiomapaperia tasaiselle tasaiselle pinnalle ja hiero tyynyn pintaa sen päälle pyöreästi. Puhalla pöly pois usein. Jatka, kunnes olet tyytyväinen, että tyynyt näyttävät hyviltä.
Peitä pehmusteet normaalisti ja matkaan!

Muista puhdistaa jarru gleaner spray laikat.Se on voimakkain rasvan poistaja.

 

[Stihldog]

Muista puhdistaa jarru gleaner spray laikat.Se on voimakkain rasvan poistaja.

My translator doesn’t seem to be working but yes…some bike cleaners may have contaminants in them. I just use water and a soft brush.

 

[steve_sordy]

Mmmm
You do realize the pad linings are only bonded to the back plates , getting them glowing red wont do a lot for the adhesive i wouldn't have thought
But hey if it works for you who im i too say anything

I agree that it is a risk, but the pads are useless anyway, so it was worth the risk. But I've done it about half a dozen times or so over the years and never had a problem. Different pad manufacturers too.

It's only the corners of the pad material glowing red, not the whole thing.

 

[steve_sordy]

How muck oil is he putting on his chain! Does he have a big drum of it and just dunks the rear of the bike into it?

I dunno how he's doing it, or even how the oil gets onto the pads. But it is the only source of contaminant as his bike never goes on the back of a car. He does not have any spray lubricant. I will renew my advice to wipe the chain after application (after a short while).

 

[Mikerb]

The state of the pads may not be due to oil contamination. I only ever use sintered pads and they can, and do, go black if not bedded in correctly. It is also the case that it is well worth while cleaning both pads and rotors on a brand new bike, especially if bought fully assembled. The rotors were probably not cleaned before first use by the mechanic that assembled the bike and the pads quite possibly not bedded in, since that takes a bit of time.

 

[steve_sordy]

The state of the pads may not be due to oil contamination. I only ever use sintered pads and they can, and do, go black if not bedded in correctly. It is also the case that it is well worth while cleaning both pads and rotors on a brand new bike, especially if bought fully assembled. The rotors were probably not cleaned before first use by the mechanic that assembled the bike and the pads quite possibly not bedded in, since that takes a bit of time.

I agree with what you say. But I know they were bedded in properly because I watched him do it. And you only had to see the black smoke coming off the pads when I put the flame on to be convinced that there was oil there.

I will be seeing him again on Wed am and I will have another word with him about his lubrication and cleaning practices. He may pay more attention this time, because now he is earning money he's paying for the pads!

 

[RustyMTB]

Considering pads are a safety critical part, I don't think I would be pissing about setting fire to them in order to save the ten quid or so for new ones.

 

[steve_sordy]

Considering pads are a safety critical part, I don't think I would be pissing about setting fire to them in order to save the ten quid or so for new ones.

I agree with what you are saying.
I had thought I had made clear that it wasn't a cost thing, it was a no alternative thing. I only consider this practice if the alternative to not doing it is not riding. I have only done the Disco Inferno about half a dozen times in the last 15 years. I have never had a problem with any of the pads, by various manufacturers, either not working or failing in some way.