DancingWithMyself
Member
I think the rebound, compression, and check tunes are probably all I need. Really nice to have this in case I decide to pull the trigger. Huge thanks.
Fuel EXe Fuel EXe Suspension Modifications/Questions
- Thread starter Swingset
- Start date
ragetty
Member
... does one assume the tunes are the same across all sizes? ... that's on a 9.8 XT size M!
Gd3fit
Member
I have my Float X stroked to 152mm travel on medium frame (mulleted in high position). What size frame is your bike? I'm thinking of getting an X2 and doing the same.
DancingWithMyself
Member
Thx for the followup. The tunes likely shouldn't be the same, but I'd be shocked (no pun intended) if they weren't. But maybe someone has some insider knowledge?
ragetty
Member
… or just the same bike in a different size? (… and can put their shock number into the RS Trailhead app).
Emailsucks98
Active member
Just gonna throw it out there: I think the stock tunes are too light on compression damping. (Based on a super deluxe select+ on a 9.8).
Going to a coil shock, or air shock with a larger air, is going to make this worse. You'll want to consider all the ways you can prevent the shock from blowing through travel: volume spacers, compression damping, bottom-out control (if available)
Going to a coil shock, or air shock with a larger air, is going to make this worse. You'll want to consider all the ways you can prevent the shock from blowing through travel: volume spacers, compression damping, bottom-out control (if available)
kart66
New Member
Would have been my first choice also, such a great shock. Bummed.
mine didnt have HBO.
A shock with HBO has different graphics on the shaft compared to one without HBO. IN the image below the shock on the left has HBO, the one on the right does not have HBO
Piccirilli
Member
I also was about to upgrade the stock shock on my 9.8, which has the RS super deluxe select+ installed. The problem was blowing through the travel too quickly, and bottoming out on medium jumps. By adding more air really didn't resolve the problem. It just added another problem, now having no small bump compliance on top of the ongoing bottom out issue. As a last ditch effort, I installed 2 volume spacers in the shock. Surprisingly, it fixed all my issues. I add the recommended air per my weight. It's supple at the top, and even on large jumps is not hitting the bottom. If anyone has a RS rear shock, I highly recommend doing this before spending the bucks on upgrade. Installing the volume tokens is super easy to do. .. just my 2 cents. I may eventually upgrade to coil, but the only gain would be better small bump compliance.
what stroke length did you opt for 60 or 62.5?
MikeP
Member
62.5mm - see post #125 for clearance. Running a 340-380lb adjustable Sprindex coil, which is very nice, but not perfect.
MikeP
Member
Apparently so... Fuel EXe - Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
ZillaG
Member
Did you mess with the flip chip(s) when you did this? If so how?
ZillaG
Member
Has anyone confirmed the need for a second kit to complete the upgrade?
Canyon Shawn
Active member
My setup for my 9.7 is a Marzocchi coil kit in the Fox Rhythm 36. I’m 180 pounds ready to ride and installed the firm green spring with 7 clicks of preload, set at 160mm of travel, and rebound set at 5 clicks out. I run the compression knob on the top of the right leg at about the 1:00 position. Out back I have a new 2024 Fox X2 shock with a 62.5 mm stroke, which should give me about 146 mm of travel. 170 psi gave me 30% sag, LSR is 9 clicks out, HSR is 5 clicks out, LSC is 11 clicks out and HSC IS 6 clicks out. All these setting are within the recommended setting for the pressure needed to get 30% sag. I can’t find any fault with these settings. I’m an ex pro open class MXer, I’ve been riding mountain bikes since 1989, so I feel pretty confident in my ability to setup suspension for my needs. My needs are to get down the trails as fast as I can and to flatten everything underneath me. I like to manual a little and pop of things a little. I’m not getting much air. But, I’m riding some pretty fast, chunky downhills. I’m using all but 5-10 mm of travel, depending on which ride I go on, which is fine by me. It’s incredible how well balanced and how well this setup dampens all the bumps. It allows me to carry so much more speed that I’ve had to relearn my braking points. It’s the best setup I’ve ever had on a mountain bike.
I have a RS Ultimate Select+. I'm only using about 80% of travel, I have opened the shock and there are no volume spacers within it. I bought it from eBay, it was listed as coming off an EXe, so I can only assume it is the correct tune.
I have it at about 28% sag.
Suggestions on what I can do to get more travel out of it? (other than send it harder ! )
I have it at about 28% sag.
Suggestions on what I can do to get more travel out of it? (other than send it harder ! )
Emailsucks98
Active member
@Dave_B That's weird. Many have had the opposite problem, the suspension is pretty linear.
Have you measured with calipers to see how much stroke is actually being used?
You have the compression lever open when setting sag?
Past that I would try more sag, but you may have a dud shock.
When I had the same stock shock, at 30% sag/190lbs I was getting full travel with max spacers on most every ride. Did not keep it long.
Have you measured with calipers to see how much stroke is actually being used?
You have the compression lever open when setting sag?
Past that I would try more sag, but you may have a dud shock.
When I had the same stock shock, at 30% sag/190lbs I was getting full travel with max spacers on most every ride. Did not keep it long.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
Set it at 1/3 sag. The EXes are very unbalanced to the front. So run the shock with a lot of sag and run the fork on the small end of the sag spectrum with more compression than normal. You may even try 35% sag in the shock. But honestly, you should be more worried about how the shock feels then how much travel you’re getting.
These RS deluxe/superdeluxe shocks have the option of a progressive or linear air can, if the shock came from an exe it will have the progressive air can fitted by default, you could swap it to the linear air can, but I wouldnt recommend it, it makes it far too linear - I have tried both air cans.
When you opened it up to look for volume spacers did you take the air can fully off? I ask because on these there can be spacers fiited to the negative air chamber,which arent visible until you fully remove the air can. But these affect the beginning of the shock stroke rather than the end stroke which is what positive chamber spacers do.
I had the same issue as you - couldnt get anywhere near full travel when everyone else was complaining they bottom out too easily - I just increased sag slightly in the end, there seems to be a very narrow sweet spot for sag at around 32% ,for me anyway. Too much sag and you bottom out all the time, too little sag and you dont get anywhere near full travel - Ifound it quite tricky to find the sweet spot.
Emailsucks98
Active member
Just for the sake of documenting my experience 
I finished out the season with a dead remote, cracked rim and a blown rear shock. The shock saga was interesting- basically I could feel the damping in the Ohlins TTx1 fading, so I bought a $150 used Marzocchi Bomber CR which i planned to use as a back-up while the Ohlins was getting rebuilt. A quick test fit showed the bomber reservoir did not clear the frame, so I sent it off to Avalanche to have the reservoir shortened & converted it to their SSD tuned for the EXe. Meanwhile the Ohlins became unridable, so I sent that off too, along with the cracked wheel. All in, my EXe was out of commission for 13 weeks, during which I was back on my Chromag. An unplanned challenge to go back to a hardtail with no motor and shitty G2 brakes!
I got both shocks and the new rear wheel back over the holidays. The bomber is great so far, very supple on small stuff, but it doesn't go deep into travel easily as the Ohlins. At 190lbs I am running a 500# SLS spring. I ran about 200psi in the Ohlins with their largest volume spacer. Both are now 65mm stroke.
I would really recommend keeping a spare shock around. The 50hr service intervals recommended by most suspension companies goes by fast on eBikes, and lead times for rebuilds aren't quick (13 weeks for the avalanche and 6 weeks for the Ohlins, which was 9 months old).
I finished out the season with a dead remote, cracked rim and a blown rear shock. The shock saga was interesting- basically I could feel the damping in the Ohlins TTx1 fading, so I bought a $150 used Marzocchi Bomber CR which i planned to use as a back-up while the Ohlins was getting rebuilt. A quick test fit showed the bomber reservoir did not clear the frame, so I sent it off to Avalanche to have the reservoir shortened & converted it to their SSD tuned for the EXe. Meanwhile the Ohlins became unridable, so I sent that off too, along with the cracked wheel. All in, my EXe was out of commission for 13 weeks, during which I was back on my Chromag. An unplanned challenge to go back to a hardtail with no motor and shitty G2 brakes!
I got both shocks and the new rear wheel back over the holidays. The bomber is great so far, very supple on small stuff, but it doesn't go deep into travel easily as the Ohlins. At 190lbs I am running a 500# SLS spring. I ran about 200psi in the Ohlins with their largest volume spacer. Both are now 65mm stroke.
I would really recommend keeping a spare shock around. The 50hr service intervals recommended by most suspension companies goes by fast on eBikes, and lead times for rebuilds aren't quick (13 weeks for the avalanche and 6 weeks for the Ohlins, which was 9 months old).
Piccirilli
Member
How did you crack your rim? Do you have the carbon or alum variety?Just for the sake of documenting my experience
I finished out the season with a dead remote, cracked rim and a blown rear shock. The shock saga was interesting- basically I could feel the damping in the Ohlins TTx1 fading, so I bought a $150 used Marzocchi Bomber CR which i planned to use as a back-up while the Ohlins was getting rebuilt. A quick test fit showed the bomber reservoir did not clear the frame, so I sent it off to Avalanche to have the reservoir shortened & converted it to their SSD tuned for the EXe. Meanwhile the Ohlins became unridable, so I sent that off too, along with the cracked wheel. All in, my EXe was out of commission for 13 weeks, during which I was back on my Chromag. An unplanned challenge to go back to a hardtail with no motor and shitty G2 brakes!
I got both shocks and the new rear wheel back over the holidays. The bomber is great so far, very supple on small stuff, but it doesn't go deep into travel easily as the Ohlins. At 190lbs I am running a 500# SLS spring. I ran about 200psi in the Ohlins with their largest volume spacer. Both are now 65mm stroke.
I would really recommend keeping a spare shock around. The 50hr service intervals recommended by most suspension companies goes by fast on eBikes, and lead times for rebuilds aren't quick (13 weeks for the avalanche and 6 weeks for the Ohlins, which was 9 months old).
View attachment 132107 View attachment 132108
Emailsucks98
Active member
It was a Nobl TR37 carbon rear rim, which came off my previous bike so had two seasons of use. My TQ remote had failed, when I took the bike into my local trek shop they found the crack. Looked like just a scratch so I wasn't fussed about it. Contacted Nobl and they advised I replace it immediately, no cost, no questions. Unfortunately, we had a bit of a mix-up and they sent a 29" rather than 27.5", so I ended up keeping both. TQ remote was also replaced no fuss, just took a few days.
gamble
New Member
FYI for anyone not aware, you can set your display button to control ride modes via the TQ app. This can be done trailside in a pinch, or if you want less clutter in the cockpit area.
You pair to your phone, go to configuration, turn off walk assist, and turn on the extended center button functionality. The button just goes up in modes until 3, then pressing again it goes down to 1, very basic but it works.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
^ What does this have to do with suspension modifications? 
Emailsucks98
Active member
That’s a great tip. Of course what happened was the up/walk button failed, so I did a restart which stuck me in 0 mode with no way to change modes. It was all DH to the end, but your tip would have gotten me another day of riding.
gamble
New Member
^ What does this have to do with suspension modifications?^ What does this have to do with suspension modifications?
I'm just putting the info where it is useful. If someone else searching these forums for exe issues and comes across their post, they may see a work around on the same page.I just swapped the airshaft assembly in the original Lyrik Select+ from 150mm to the 160mm with buttercups but have not had a chance to test it out yet. Supposedly buttercup on the one side is still a decent upgrade, we'll see. Cheap easy try, and the entire air spring side had WAY too much grease anyway, happy to have been in there.
DebonAir+ Upgrade - FS-UPK-DBP-A1 - RockShox
RockShox Debonair+ Buttercup Air Spring Upgrade Kit
The new DebonAir+ is built to strike the perfect balance of what riders really want: butter-like small bump feel, increased air volume to add support throughout the travel and higher overall ride height for more confidence when things get steep. This upgrade is for those who have 2023+ ZEB...
www.fanatikbike.com
Factory rear still, haven't even put it in steep mino link setting yet. I need to put some miles on what i've got before tossing a shock at it, but loving all the info in here.
5earchkaine
Member
Hi, I'm planning to remove two of the 2,5mm spacers from my Fox Float X (Fuel Exe 9.7, Large). Can anybody tell me which shorter screws I need then? M3x8, or even shorter? Thanks
Gd3fit
Member
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