DT Steel Freehub (10000 miles) vs DT Aluminum Freehub (1200 miles)

[MadManPedal]

Tightened with 55N-m torque on both freehubs.

 

[R120]

This was my alloy one after 500ish miles, however the pic is from late 2018 and its still going strong now

 

[MadManPedal]

The stock DT aluminum freehub got loose cassette even with 60N-m. The lock threads in the freehub are almost busted and it is still not tight enough. Though the Shimano Cassette writes only 40N-M and it isn't tight at all because of the soft aluminum.

 

[Zimmerframe]

I'm curious why all your posts are complaining about aluminium DT free hubs ?

You've already explained that your bike is a 2000w+ Electric Motorcycle and you have to take FOUR 650wh batteries with you on a ride just to ride on flat ground.

DT ratchet teeth 54T vs 36T vs stock 18T for ebike

About the 54T, I saw some threads mentioning it can fail and explode even without the motor assistance. Since this is e-bike specific topic, I'm wondering anyone has actually gotten an exploded DT 54T in their high-torque ebikes. And I'm about to change a steel freehub because the motor is...

www.emtbforums.com

If you're going to use parts in ways that they were never intended or designed for, they will fail ! Just use suitable parts for your setup ????

Not to mention that the two show in your image appear to have completely different bearings which would suggest they've been used on different bikes with different sized axles.

 

[MadManPedal]

I'm curious why all your posts are complaining about aluminium DT free hubs ?

You've already explained that your bike is a 2000w+ Electric Motorcycle and you have to take FOUR 650wh batteries with you on a ride just to ride on flat ground.

DT ratchet teeth 54T vs 36T vs stock 18T for ebike

About the 54T, I saw some threads mentioning it can fail and explode even without the motor assistance. Since this is e-bike specific topic, I'm wondering anyone has actually gotten an exploded DT 54T in their high-torque ebikes. And I'm about to change a steel freehub because the motor is...

www.emtbforums.com

If you're going to use parts in ways that they were never intended or designed for, they will fail ! Just use suitable parts for your setup ????

Not to mention that the two show in your image appear to have completely different bearings which would suggest they've been used on different bikes with different sized axles.

It's an E-bike I can pedal, not a motorcycle. And it uses cycling gears. The point is many E-bikes have the same issue not just mine and the small cycling industry/market uses cheap materials all the time.

 

[outerlimits]

If you are chewing through alloy freehubs, and not steel freehubs, why don’t you just run a steel freehub ? You are only saving some grams by running alloy over steal and you are on a ebike so what’s that matter.
I’ve managed to chew the prawls on my freehub after 12,000km. Have also snapped 3 axles and chewed 4 sets of bearings in that time.
I’m getting a new stronger wheel set this week with stronger hubs ect. Either put up with it or upgrade to better and move on. Simples really .......

 

[outerlimits]

It's an E-bike I can pedal, not a motorcycle. And it uses cycling gears. The point is many E-bikes have the same issue not just mine and the small cycling industry/market uses cheap materials all the time.

You get what you pay for.. pay the $’s, or put up with cheap chit breaking. It’s not rocket science...

 

[MadManPedal]

And there is another problem. You don't get the quality materials from cycling market even you can pay a fortune because cycling market goes lightweight and currently doesn't have them. You get steel freehub because of luck and it is in fact cheaper as it is old and discontinued. Then you want good components can be future proof when the motor becomes stronger, there is none.

 

[Sidepod]

There are a bazillion small engineering companies out there that will CNC one of those in whatever exotic material you desire.
Get on it.