Dropper post hose through the frame

[HORSPWR]

I'm getting rid of the Reverb plunger remote and fitting a Reverb 1x remote. I need to remove the seat post and the hose where it feeds in and out of the frame up towards the headset but it's extremely tight to feed through, any tips on how to do this. I've loosened off the little screw that holds the clamp but it's still a mission to feed the hose through.

Cheers

 

[Eckythump]

Why remove the post & hose? Just swap the lever. Or are you trying to get enough slack for the bleed?

 

[brash]

Out of interest. What is your drop on your Merida? Mine is only 130mm but the spec should be a 150 reverb. I think the shop may have swapped it out for the short on as it was an ex demo. Bit pissed off.

Ideally I’ll just replace with a fox transfer in kashima and have the looks and reliability haha.

I doubt a 175mm will have enough seat tube to fit unfortunately.

 

[HORSPWR]

Why remove the post & hose? Just swap the lever. Or are you trying to get enough slack for the bleed?

Yeah the SRAM video on YouTube shows that you have to pull the dropper because there’s a bleed on the bottom and you have to push the fluid up from the bottom to the lever.

 

[HORSPWR]

Out of interest. What is your drop on your Merida? Mine is only 130mm but the spec should be a 150 reverb. I think the shop may have swapped it out for the short on as it was an ex demo. Bit pissed off.

Ideally I’ll just replace with a fox transfer in kashima and have the looks and reliability haha.

I doubt a 175mm will have enough seat tube to fit unfortunately.

Mine is a 150mm, I was going to swap mine out for the Fox Transfer Kashima but these bikes won’t take a 150 Fox Transfer as it’s 457mm long unless your 6 foot plus tall. For my height I can only fit a 125mm Fox Transfer.

They may have swapped it out because the seat wouldn’t go low enough for most test riders. Mine is slammed all the way down and to be honest I really need another 5mm lower for my height (177cm).

I’ve got a Fox Transfer on my Intense Carbine and it is so effortless to drop compared to the Reverb but I didn’t want to settle on 125mm drop for this bike.

 

[brash]

Yeah I’m 6’1 with long legs so even a 150 post for me is going to be sticking out the frame quite a way. 150 transfer should work for me. The kashima would looks great with the black/gold on the rest of the bike (900e)

One up have a 180mm that would be even better but insertion depth may be an issue.

 

[HORSPWR]

Yeah I’m 6’1 with long legs so even a 150 post for me is going to be sticking out the frame quite a way. 150 transfer should work for me. The kashima would looks great with the black/gold on the rest of the bike (900e)

One up have a 180mm that would be even better but insertion depth may be an issue.

Yeah I looked at those too but decided that if I had to have a black one then I'd stay with the one I've got. But you're right the Kashima coat one would bling right in.

 

[Re-Cycle]

You need to completely unscrew the small screw on the picture. Then you can take the clamp out and it'll be a lot easier to get the cable/hose through the frame

 

[HORSPWR]

You need to completely unscrew the small screw on the picture. Then you can take the clamp out and it'll be a lot easier to get the cable/hose through the frame

Cheers, I found a cool little video on YouTube by Merida and they detail how those smart entry cable clamps work, I would never had figured it out unless I saw the video.

 

[Beatn1K]

Yeah the SRAM video on YouTube shows that you have to pull the dropper because there’s a bleed on the bottom and you have to push the fluid up from the bottom to the lever.

Is that confirmed ?
I found a video and it shows bleeding at the top.. and that didn’t need it as he lost no fluid...
Sounds like a pain...?

 

[Gary]

. I need to remove the seat post and the hose

No you don't.

Each lever just threads into the hose.

If you're careful you won't even need to do a full bleed.. Just a lever bleed like the last step of a full bleed

 

[Beatn1K]

No you don't.

Each lever just threads into the hose.

If you're careful you won't even need to do a full bleed.. Just a lever bleed like the last step of a full bleed

Cool - tah !

 

[Beatn1K]

I read a few posts wherein people were saying a good Stanley blade would cut the hose, so no need to buy a cutter... Well , no way ! It blunted the blades and made no in roads...!
I ended up cutting it with strong & sharp pliers - firm and swift. Job done.
It helps to dismantle the remote connection. ( RockShox Remote x1) This gives access to the small threaded insert. This ensures you can screw the part to the hose & snug it down with your fingers. If you don’t. the parts just rotate, unseen inside the captive nut....Make sure you pass the hose thru’ the nut before you screw it into the hose. Ideally you only want to thread the hose on once....

Dropper feels like it returns a bit slow. It’s wound right up to maximum ‘fast’. I noticed the original plunger in comparison was set to full slow before the change...Can you access the dropper air spring and pump them up at all..? Looks like a valve under the seat clamp...? Think I read somewhere not to do this fsr ( 4 sum reason)

Grtzzzz....!

 

[HORSPWR]

No you don't.

Each lever just threads into the hose.

If you're careful you won't even need to do a full bleed.. Just a lever bleed like the last step of a full bleed

Well I did because I got rid of that stupidly long conectamajig thing as well (it was rubbing on the inside of the seat tube). The bleed kit is designed to push fluid up and to also apply negative vacuum from the top to remove all the air in the oil, I did it as per spec and it works awesome.

 

[Beatn1K]

Sure...just a lever bleed..
Pumped up the dropper post too...
Back up to 250psi and fast enough to crush your nuts - nice !