My wife's 2020 Cube Hybrid Access EX 500 has covered 550 miles so decided to give it an overhaul. Cube dropped the Hybrid version of the Access in 2021 but I suspect the Cube Reaction has a similar build so some of the following may be useful for those owners.
Drivetrain:
SRAM Eagle. SX Mech and shifter, NX PG 1230 11-50 cassette, SRAM Eagle sync 2 38t chainwheel (the Access is 29er). Chain Sx. Cassette removed and all components degreased and lubed and mech b tension , stops, cable tension checked/adjusted. Both b tension and cable tension were wrong and the hanger securing screw was loose. Note the 1210 and 1230 are the only Eagle cassettes that will fit because the rear hub is a Shimano MT 400-B which has the Shimano HG freehub.
Removing the cassette is with the shimano removal tool....note the cassette has the largest 4 cogs pinned and the rest are separate with spacers so best to stack on a rod in the order they come off. Replacement torque is 40nm.
Brakes:
Front is BR MT420 which has a 4 piston calliper and uses DO3S resin pads ( note resin only). Rear is BR MT400 which has a 2 piston calliper and uses BO1S resin pads (I think BO3S are a later version of the BO1S). Again resin only. If you check the markings on the discs it will also specify resin only pads. The pads were not worn so I cleaned pads rotors and pistons. I had previously bled the brakes so not required this time. ( should be bled annually). Pad removal is just the removal of a split pin. Rotors are centrelock so you need a rotor disc removal tool like Park Tools BBT 9. Front disc can be left in situ for cleaning and hub servicing but the rear rotor needs to be removed to service the hub.
Hubs:
Rear hub is FH MT 400-B .Front is HB 400-B. Both have cone bearings so worth stripping the axle out, removing the ball bearings, cleaning and repacking with grease. If the cones or bearings are scored they need to be replaced.
The Shimano website shows diagrams of both so just a quick summary here. On the rear hub the rotor and cassette should be removed. Use 17mm cone spanners to removed the lock nut and cone on the non drive side. The axle can the be pulled out from the drive side.
The ba bearings on both sides can then be removed on both sides for inspection cleaning and repacking with grease. The seals can be left in place. The freehub is non serviceable so not worth removing unless it needs replacing. If you want to change it you need a 15mm hex or splined tool inserted into the freehub body to remove it from the hub. Sourcing a replacement will be hard!! Easier to buy a new hub and remove the freehub from it !
On the front hub it is a similar process.
Drivetrain:
SRAM Eagle. SX Mech and shifter, NX PG 1230 11-50 cassette, SRAM Eagle sync 2 38t chainwheel (the Access is 29er). Chain Sx. Cassette removed and all components degreased and lubed and mech b tension , stops, cable tension checked/adjusted. Both b tension and cable tension were wrong and the hanger securing screw was loose. Note the 1210 and 1230 are the only Eagle cassettes that will fit because the rear hub is a Shimano MT 400-B which has the Shimano HG freehub.
Removing the cassette is with the shimano removal tool....note the cassette has the largest 4 cogs pinned and the rest are separate with spacers so best to stack on a rod in the order they come off. Replacement torque is 40nm.
Brakes:
Front is BR MT420 which has a 4 piston calliper and uses DO3S resin pads ( note resin only). Rear is BR MT400 which has a 2 piston calliper and uses BO1S resin pads (I think BO3S are a later version of the BO1S). Again resin only. If you check the markings on the discs it will also specify resin only pads. The pads were not worn so I cleaned pads rotors and pistons. I had previously bled the brakes so not required this time. ( should be bled annually). Pad removal is just the removal of a split pin. Rotors are centrelock so you need a rotor disc removal tool like Park Tools BBT 9. Front disc can be left in situ for cleaning and hub servicing but the rear rotor needs to be removed to service the hub.
Hubs:
Rear hub is FH MT 400-B .Front is HB 400-B. Both have cone bearings so worth stripping the axle out, removing the ball bearings, cleaning and repacking with grease. If the cones or bearings are scored they need to be replaced.
The Shimano website shows diagrams of both so just a quick summary here. On the rear hub the rotor and cassette should be removed. Use 17mm cone spanners to removed the lock nut and cone on the non drive side. The axle can the be pulled out from the drive side.
The ba bearings on both sides can then be removed on both sides for inspection cleaning and repacking with grease. The seals can be left in place. The freehub is non serviceable so not worth removing unless it needs replacing. If you want to change it you need a 15mm hex or splined tool inserted into the freehub body to remove it from the hub. Sourcing a replacement will be hard!! Easier to buy a new hub and remove the freehub from it !
On the front hub it is a similar process.
