Building a full carbon frame enduro bike. Any tips?

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Decided to dip my toes in carbon for the first time.
Traditionally, I tend to stick to alloy for longevity reasons but I thought, "screw it, let's see whether carbon is worth it".

It's a S Works Enduro frame (opted not to buy a Kenevo SL but it is a good bike).

I've studied the stock build which Specialized ran on it and understand the geometry. However, any advice to ensure and preserve the frame would be useful??

I intend to invisiframe the frame before building but any guidance from anyone who runs a full carbon frame bike/ebike would be most appreciative.

This includes components to consider buying so please, dont hold back. I'm all ears.

 

[Gary]

Firstly. You kinda have it the wrong way around. Carbon frame longevity is greater than Aluminium as it is far easier to repair.

I'm not sure what you are actually asking regarding parts or care. The same parts will fit whether you have an Alu or carbon frame. Assembly paste is a good idea instead of grease but other than that there's little difference.
Invisiframe isn't really required either and will only be of benefit for resale value and cosmetic appearance. personally I prefer a few scuffs to the horrible look of Invisiframe covering the lacquer, paint or raw carbon as it was meant to be.

 

[apac]

If you are converting it to electric, remember that CF is Very conductive, so watch those wires.
if you intend on making any holes, sanding or cutting, wear a face mask and hoover up any particles. It's nasty stuff. It's real easy to drill and sand though.

 

[Gary]

Oh.. And as for whether carbon is "worth it" over alloy. I have two carbon frames. A road bike and a 170mm travel FS Enduro bike. Both are lighter and stiffer than their aluminium equivalents from each brand. It's not a massive difference in the grand scheme of things and will be a similar story with your Carbon S-Worx over the Alu Enduro so whether that's worth whatever extra you paid will be entirely your own personal opinion.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Thanks for the guidance so far guys.
@apac, Its not for a conversation project but you have given me ideas ?
@Gary, cheers for the heads up. In terms of the dropper, would it be safer to run a 31.6 seatpost diameter with a plastic cane creek shim or just the standard 34.9 seatpost diameter?

 

[apac]

Thanks for the guidance so far guys.
@apac, Its not for a conversation project but you have given me ideas ?
@Gary, cheers for the heads up. In terms of the dropper, would it be safer to run a 31.6 seatpost diameter with a plastic cane creek shim or just the standard 34.9 seatpost diameter?

Go for the diameter of the seat tube if you can. The shim will not go as deep as the seat post and will Not be as good a clamp as the seat tube itself.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Go for the diameter of the seat tube if you can. The shim will not go as deep as the seat post and will Not be as good a clamp as the seat tube itself.

Nice one.
That reminds me, I remember you posted a thread about your experience with the Fox x2 on your Levo SL. Do you find that your reaching for the firm switch when climbing or do you leave it fully open?
I only ask because I'm entertaining running the x2 on my kenevo.

 

[apac]

Nice one.
That reminds me, I remember you posted a thread about your experience with the Fox x2 on your Levo SL. Do you find that your reaching for the firm switch when climbing or do you leave it fully open?
I only ask because I'm entertaining running the x2 on my kenevo.

I leave mine always open. If I closed it on a climb I would then forget to open it again, so I just leave it alone. It only bobs by about 2mm when riding

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

I leave mine always open. If I closed it on a climb I would then forget to open it again, so I just leave it alone. It only bobs by about 2mm when riding

Gottya ??
I'm aware the leverage curve of my Status 160 is different to the Stumpjumper 2020 model, which is the different to the Levo and Levo SL.
But I'll tinker with mine further. I'm in no rush at this early stage ?

 

[Gary]

Are you sure the S-worx Enduro isn't 30. 9 seat tube?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

34.9 seatpost. Although, my 2017 enduro had a 30.9 dropper seatpost shimmed to 34.9.
I dunno, yet another standard aye ?

 

[RustyIron]

Traditionally, I tend to stick to alloy for longevity reasons

However, any advice to ensure and preserve the frame would be useful??

Hey, Neek.
Aluminum sūçkš. It fatigues quickly and its not very strong. Carbon is superior in all regards for mountain bike frames.

I've done nothing to ensure the preservation of my carbon frames. By oldest is 4.5 years old. It's been through some spectacular crashes, and only has a few non-critical chips. I don't use tape on it. Tape gets scuffed up, too. I think it's just a gimmick foist upon us by tape manufacturers.

You asked about the Float X2. I run one on my Amish bike, and almost always leave it open. I like it that way for rocks, ruts, jumps, small gaps, and other features. I'll firm it up if I'm looking at a tortuously long fireroad climb. On an eMTB, I wouldn't care. The pedal strokes are smoother, and using up a little extra energy isn't such a big concern.