Breaking chain advice

[MikeInThePeaks]

Hi all. Newbie so a quick intro; I’ve had bikes for ever and have ridden for fitness and entertainment on and off since the age of 15. Somehow I’m now 52. Don’t know how that happened. I’m the sort of person that buys in long intervals. I like to leave a really decent gap so I can see how the tech has changed. I‘ve recently moved and now live on the edge of the Peaks and am enjoying riding my 2005 FSR stumpjumper S-works aluminium around the place. But due to lock down I’d like to get further into the peaks without driving so 15 years after the last bike I’ve bought another (Levo sl) and I’d really like to try out eagle AXS X01 wireless shifters.

I’m a practical bloke, with a practical job, happy to do plastering, light electrics, joinery but the two things I’ve avoided a bit are plumbing and bikes. Because it always seems as soon as you take them apart, the bits you bought are slightly the wrong size and incompatible. Then you end up with no shower/bike.

The bit of the setup with the wireless shifter I think I need the help with is splitting and reconnecting the chain, just split the chain at the powerlock, thread through with rear shock disconnected, get to correct length and rejoin with a new powerlock? Is that rightish? As it’s the middle of a pandemic I don’t want to destroy a new bike in the process as help might be difficult to come by and even parts are taking ages to arrive.
thanks for any tips.

also while I’m here anyone sussed out power setting to match an old fashioned 100% leg powered bike with a Levo SL? I was going to try 10-15% and 20%. Obviously I can experiment but any hints would be welcome.

Cheers.

 

[steve_sordy]

..............I need the help with is splitting and reconnecting the chain, just split the chain at the powerlock, thread through with rear shock disconnected, get to correct length and rejoin with a new powerlock? Is that rightish? .................

Welcome to the Forum!
Yes you can split the powerlock but you don't need to use a new one. Keep using the powerlock until you throw away the chain.

I used to be able to split 9 and 10-speed powerlocks with my fingers, but the 11 and 12-speed ones I need assistance with. There is a special tool that makes a doddle of it (looks like a pair of pliers), but you need to find a ghetto method for when you are out on the trail. People have used zip ties, string and all sorts of things. But when out on the trail, I wimp out and use the chain splitter on my multi-tool to split the chain elsewhere, do the job, then insert a second new powerlink. Mr Google is very useful.

I carry old powerlinks for emergencies, mine or others, but always replace the used one with a new one (depending upon how old the chain is TBH).

 

[MikeInThePeaks]

Thanks, just the boost I needed. I’ve bought some spares and a chain in case of disaster and the pliers.

 

[paquo]

theres a little arrow on the lock , it goes in the direction of chain travel, to get it to lock you might have to press on the pedal

 

[Mcharza]

Welcome to the Forum!
Yes you can split the powerlock but you don't need to use a new one. Keep using the powerlock until you throw away the chain.

I used to be able to split 9 and 10-speed powerlocks with my fingers, but the 11 and 12-speed ones I need assistance with. There is a special tool that makes a doddle of it (looks like a pair of pliers), but you need to find a ghetto method for when you are out on the trail. People have used zip ties, string and all sorts of things. But when out on the trail, I wimp out and use the chain splitter on my multi-tool to split the chain elsewhere, do the job, then insert a second new powerlink. Mr Google is very useful.

I carry old powerlinks for emergencies, mine or others, but always replace the used one with a new one (depending upon how old the chain is TBH).

This is one of the best ghetto method

 

[salko]

theres a little arrow on the lock , it goes in the direction of chain travel, to get it to lock you might have to press on the pedal

These arrows on links indicate direction you have to pull each half of the link to lock it, not direction of chain travel ...

 

[R120]

Wiggle | Park Tool Master Link Pliers MLP-1.2 | Chain Tools

 

[aarfeldt]

These arrows on links indicate direction you have to pull each half of the link to lock it, not direction of chain travel ...

So....when the link is "open" and you need to close it....there seems to be only 1 way you can move the link....right ?
And then we need an arrow, to show the only way the link can be moved...hmm.

I assume the usage of this arrow is supplied with a 50 page instructions booklet, so we don't get confused

 

[Konanige]

The arrow is there because on 12 speed it can be put on the wrong way round as it has a curve in it, but I think you would have to be blind to see that it wont 'look' right if its on wrong.

 

[aarfeldt]

The arrow is there because on 12 speed it can be put on the wrong way round as it has a curve in it, but I think you would have to be blind to see that it wont 'look' right if its on wrong.

But if we can get confused how to use the arrows....is it supposed to be "pull" direction of "rotation" direction....ugh (damn those 12sp...)

 

[WildGuy]

Yeah it states quite clearly that for the 11/12 speed powerlinks they are one time use only and shouldn't be reused. Basically if you can't take a powerlink on/off with your fingers then it's not the old type and shouldn't be reused. If I need to take a chain off I do it by opening the derailleur instead, this a good opportunity to clean and maybe re-grease the jockey wheels anyway. When I fit a new chain I do it the old-fashioned way with a chain tool only, that way I keep the powerlink for if I got a chain breakage on a ride - getting through chains so quickly on the ebike I'm building quite a collection! To the o/p, if you're not so familiar with chains and you decide to do this, just watch out for getting a stiff link where you make the join, I normally get one doing this but it's quite easy to get rid off provided your chain tool has two sets of jaws - plenty of vids out there showing you how to do it.

 

[paquo]

These arrows on links indicate direction you have to pull each half of the link to lock it, not direction of chain travel ...

from sram manual:
"The arrow must point in the direction of chain travel before locking the PowerLock into place"
MTB and Road Cassette and Chains

 

[salko]

When both parts of the link are identical, arrow on one side of the link will point in direction of travel while on the other side will be pointing in opposite direction ... So unless you have those curved shaped links, for which is kinda obvious how they should be mounted, the arrow direction should not make any difference ... also not all the links have arrow on it ...

 

[steve_sordy]

from sram manual:
"The arrow must point in the direction of chain travel before locking the PowerLock into place"
MTB and Road Cassette and Chains

That is exactly how I understood it to be too.

 

[Konanige]

When both parts of the link are identical, arrow on one side of the link will point in direction of travel while on the other side will be pointing in opposite direction ... So unless you have those curved shaped links, for which is kinda obvious how they should be mounted, the arrow direction should not make any difference ... also not all the links have arrow on it ...

Which side of the bike are you looking at it from? If your on the driveside arrow forwards, if your looking at it through the wheel from the non drive side however, take 3 steps back pick up the phone and book it into your LBS!!???

 

[highpeakrider]

Ive never looked at the arrows as the tension of the chain pulls them into place.
although I think I read somewhere that 12 speed chains have a direction