Bosch motor cover

[Mikerb]

I have a Whyte E180RS and plan to do a winter check on the bike including checking/cleaning the electrical connections. I have 3 questions if anyone can advise please, just to save me guessing.

1. I assume the electrical connections to the motor are under the non drive side motor cover? I can see 2 fixing screws. Is removal just the removal of those 2 screws?
2. Does the non drive side crank need to be removed or will the cover drop down on the crank arm enough to service the connections ......I can see it would not clear the pedal but it would not need to?
3. where is the drain hole for this motor?

 

[highpeakrider]

If it’s the same as the 160E you only need to take the drive side off to route the gear cable.
the bolts are very soft so beware, the head went on one of mine and i ended up drilling it out.

Ive replaced them with allen bolts at 16 mm long.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Mikerb]

OK ta worthwhile knowing if I ever need to do that....but what I want to check at the moment are the battery/controller/speed sensor connections to the motor which I assume are under the non drive side cover?

 

[Tribey]

Yep, just the two small bolts.
The cover can be manoeuvred over the crank arm, or if you've got the self extracting arms, it's easier with it out of the way.
Use crocodile/long nose pliers on the plugs themselves, don't pull the cables.
Make sure the cover is back tight against the threaded brackets before putting the bolts back in, don't use the bolts to pull the cover back.
There's loads of gaps around the motor, but no drain actually out of the motor, you don't want any water getting in there!

 

[Mikerb]

Yep, just the two small bolts.
The cover can be manoeuvred over the crank arm, or if you've got the self extracting arms, it's easier with it out of the way.
Use crocodile/long nose pliers on the plugs themselves, don't pull the cables.
Make sure the cover is back tight against the threaded brackets before putting the bolts back in, don't use the bolts to pull the cover back.
There's loads of gaps around the motor, but no drain actually out of the motor, you don't want any water getting in there!

Ah great...thanks for that. I did think it looked like there was no need to remove the crank..........mine are Raceface so not self extracting. I intend removing the plugs to apply some silicone lube on the seals and contact cleaner on the contacts, then clean out any debris in that area. Yep I know a bout using the plug itself and not the wires having done this routine a couple of times a year on my Levo..thanks or reminding me though!!

The only reference points I could get prior to your reply were YT videos on fitting various hacking devices but there are so many different LH cover designs I found none with the cover design on the Whyte which I think is the one on post 2020 CX Gen 4 motors.

 

[Tribey]

Crank arms aren't that hard to remove anyway. I've had my cover off a few times, very little dirt in there each time, which is quite a surprise.

 

[Mikerb]

Crank arms aren't that hard to remove anyway. I've had my cover off a few times, very little dirt in there each time, which is quite a surprise.

I ended up taking the crank off. I could not release the cover otherwise. I found the same as you...it was pretty clean and dry. Tiny little T 20 screws holding the cover on so worthwhile spending some time making sure the heads are clean before removing them. I used a tiny bit of loctite when I screwed them back in and fitted a thin slice of motofoam in the section that faces the rear wheel.

Do you know the torque setting for the crank bolt?

 

[Tribey]

I think Race Face say 54Nm.

 

[Mikerb]

I think Race Face say 54Nm.

OK thanks. I saw the same using google..........seems a bit excessive to me!! I torqued to 48nm. Thanks for your help.

 

[deano2107]

Crank arms aren't that hard to remove anyway. I've had my cover off a few times, very little dirt in there each time, which is quite a surprise.

how do you remove the crank arms - I have a 2022 e 150rs?

 

[Mikerb]

how do you remove the crank arms - I have a 2022 e 150rs?

If your cranks look the same as mine in the pics a bove you remove the allen bolt then use a crank extractor tool. To replace just push the crank back on and torque up the allen bolt.
If you have cranks that have a self extractor mechanism built in you merely unscrew the allen bolt which will be the smaller of the 2 hex shapes inside the crank arm. The larger hex you leave alone...it is the extractor.

 

[Tribey]

As Mikerb says, if it's got the self extracting type, as below, it's an 8mm hex behind a 10mm hex. Leave the 10mm alone, but when you undo the 8mm, it backs itself out against the 10mm and pulls the crank arm back off the spindle. It'll feel easy to undo initially, then become firm as it backs onto the 10mm and starts to pull the crank arm off, then it'll ease up, and fall off.
Re-install, line up the splines to the correct position i relation to the opposite arm, push the crank arm on, tighten the 8mm.

 

[scjgreen]

If it’s the same as the 160E you only need to take the drive side off to route the gear cable.
the bolts are very soft so beware, the head went on one of mine and i ended up drilling it out.

Ive replaced them with allen bolts at 16 mm long.

Pardon our interruption...

Assuming they are mounted into the Aluminium Frame, Stainless Steel was the wrong choice of material for a fixing. Zinc Plated would have been a better choice to avoid any problems with Galvanic Corrosion