Anyone removed Thier Bosch gen 4 CX motor - t40 torx plus

[Peter1979]

Having a bit if a mare trying to swap my rear brakes from SRAM to Shimano on my Whyte E180. The rear hose is route through the motor housing and it looks like I'll have to drop the motor out to fit it.
Firstly, has anyone done this before, secondly what's all this about the mounting screws for the Bosch CX gen 4 being t40 plus? Is this different from t40?

Any help appreciated. I'm about 2 hours in already and I'm losing the will to live.

 

[Bones]

Just standard torx in my 21 motor. They have a bit of locking thread compound on them. Managed to undo mine with a crappy aldi kit.

 

[Peter1979]

Ok cheers. Managed to get them off fine using a standard t40 torx that I borrowed

Now I'm unable to get the battery back in the downtube of the Whyte. I really should have just paid for someone to do this for me..

 

[Mikerb]

replace the battery with the bike upside down on bars and seat. Gravity will hold the cables that run alongside the battery in the downtube out of the way. If all else fails you can put some tension on those cables by pulling them gently where they enter the downtube at the top. I use 2 long 13amp socket screws with some webbing between them to act as a handle for removing and replacing the battery. The screws fit the 2 brass threads in the bottom of the battery. Never had a problem removing or replacing the battery on my E180 using that method.

 

[Mikehorti]

I’m also having trouble rerouting a new rear brake hose on my e-150rs. When feeding the hose through attached to a routing kit, it’s jamming on something in the housing, although I had no issues pulling the old one out when attached to the cable routing kit. So I’ve a few questions I’m hoping you can help with?
1. Do I have to remove the battery housing to reroute or can it be avoided?
2. If so, what crank puller do I need for the ISIS thread?
3. Can I remove the non-drive crank by itself or do I have to remove the drive side first?
4. Can I reroute the brake hose without being attached to a routing cable? I’m nervous to do that in case it jams again and I then can’t feed the cable routing kit back through

Thanks in advance

 

[Paulquattro]

Just standard torx in my 21 motor.

I would be surprised if they are

 

[Bones]

I would be surprised if they are

You are correct as I later found out. I am going to replace with Allen cap bolts sometime.

 

[Peter1979]

I’m also having trouble rerouting a new rear brake hose on my e-150rs. When feeding the hose through attached to a routing kit, it’s jamming on something in the housing, although I had no issues pulling the old one out when attached to the cable routing kit. So I’ve a few questions I’m hoping you can help with?
1. Do I have to remove the battery housing to reroute or can it be avoided?
2. If so, what crank puller do I need for the ISIS thread?
3. Can I remove the non-drive crank by itself or do I have to remove the drive side first?
4. Can I reroute the brake hose without being attached to a routing cable? I’m nervous to do that in case it jams again and I then can’t feed the cable routing kit back through

Thanks in advance

1. Do you mean the motor housing? The battery is in the downtube and I would say yes, the battery needs to come out as it is a squeeze otherwise.
2. If it's the motor you are in about, I didn't remove the cranks to do it. I removed the motor casing, unscrewed all the mounting bolts and just dropped the motor out the way by a couple of inches so I could thread the hose through
3. I think you need a crank pukler, but not sure.
4.i did it without a routing thing. But it took a long time and a lot of swearing. I wish I'd paid the shop to do it tbh.