2019 TNT Fantic Integra 180 Race replica

[Tim29]

We took the 2019 Fantic 180 and gave it a dose of steroids.
Here the build.
2019 integra, 42mm offset forks come on 2019, 165mm crank set, trimmed seat tube 16mm, installed 150mm dropper, Tnt 27.5x43.5 internal Carbon rear with 2.8 Eddie current, with CushCore insert. front got rc3 charger cartridge with revamped internal valving,TNT 29x36.5 internal carbon front wheel with 2.6 Snake skin Magic Mary Adix Soft,
Hope 4 hubs and 203mm front and rear rotors.
Deity 25mm rise and 800mm wide bars, Deity 35mm steering Stem.
Tnt 840Wh LiPo battery with intigrated balance board and BMS.
50.3 LBS with heavy Eddie and cushcore.
29x35 WTB AND 27.5x40 WTB wheel set with 2.6 wt rear and 2.5 front bike is 48.9lbs
52.2lbs is stock 180 weight.

 

[mark.ai]

That sure looks good!

And the 840Wh battery is impressive too!

 

[mark.ai]

I'm wondering now how you made the battery capacity so large So it's custom made. Does it take up the same amount of space in the downtube? Is it still a removable battery?

 

[Tim29]

If you read it’s a Li-Po battery it actually fits into the 630wh factory Fantic battery case.
The goal was 900 but couldn’t make that fit into the stock battery case.
Working on a 3D printed case for 900wh Li-ion
If you look at the pic u see it’s still one bolt removable battery pack.
Being Li-Po i def wanted it removable for charging.

 

[mark.ai]

Aha that is cool! I don't really know much about different battery types, but just been reading about them on Wikipedia. So a LiPo is 20% lighter for the same capacity than a normal Lithium Ion battery (it says ...) But slightly more dangerous due to the higher density, if it gets damaged somehow. At least the battery position on the Fantic is well protected

 

[Doomanic]

Being Li-Po i def wanted it removable for charging.

I'd want it removed to another state!

 

[Tim29]

Been

I'd want it removed to another state!

been using them for over a decade.
Play by the rules and have no problems.
But i wanted a lighter more capacity battery and it’s only tech right now that can do that.

 

[MattyB]

Interesting - what is the configuration (in terms of series and parallel cells) for your battery, and what capacity is each cell in mah?

Just make sure you balance charge at all times and store it in the "Goldilocks" SOC region - 30-75% charged. Personally I always keep my RC lipos at 3.7V/cell other than directly before use, as they degrade more slowly and will only fizz and smoke slightly if damaged (a fully charged one will self sustain explosively if pierced and shorted out).

 

[Tim29]

The cells are 3000mah each. 3.7 volts each
Keep in mind in the Rc world your C rate is triple that of the ebike.
In high power mode min time it take to discharge the cells is 1.8hrs. Vs
Rc world 8-20min.
My 6s RC car batteries see much higher discharge temps then my Ebike ever dreamed of.
But i never store my ebikes with full charge, specially this time year as i have to charge them inside engine room as it’s 30 deg F out or less

 

[MattyB]

The cells are 3000mah each. 3.7 volts each
Keep in mind in the Rc world your C rate is triple that of the ebike.
In high power mode min time it take to discharge the cells is 1.8hrs. Vs
Rc world 8-20min.
My 6s RC car batteries see much higher discharge temps then my Ebike ever dreamed of.
But i never store my ebikes with full charge, specially this time year as i have to charge them inside engine room as it’s 30 deg F out or less

Are these low C rated lipos then like the 10C ones HK pedal for multirotor camera platforms? I can see there is no point having more than that given the slow discharge rates in an ebike, but our practical experience with those has been they have very poor performance under load (much less than 10C) so aren't as useful as they first appear. Hopefully yours will perform as you want - it's certainly an interesting approach .

 

[Tim29]

We only

Are these low C rated lipos then like the 10C ones HK pedal for multirotor camera platforms? I can see there is no point having more than that given the slow discharge rates in an ebike, but our practical experience with those has been they have very poor performance under load (much less than 10C) so aren't as useful as they first appear. Hopefully yours will perform as you want - it's certainly an interesting approach .[/QUOTE
We only make the batteries for our race bikes, to much liability in selling Li-Po batteries.
I’m Not the battery expert just know enough to be dangerous. Company we work with makes several high performance EV, it’s there battery technology and BMS.
They do all weld joints in a controled argon Chamber along with all solder joints to insure contamination free joints and increase current flow in all connections.
All i do is make the case and fit the components into the case make it as protected as possible.
When i built the prototype and they scanned it what i thought was a solid battery proved to be a dangerous battery as none of my weld joints where consistant resistance.
They draw the battery at 80% of its discharge rate under infered scan and it monitors the weld joint temperatures and you can see how crappy of a job a home built battery with all the proper spot welding tools really is.
There really is a huge difference in a certified battery pack build from the highest quality home built battery.
I have tried finding YouTube videos on how certified battery packs are built and no one leaks that information.
I have a climate controlled clean room for building engines that has all filtered air and my battery i built looked and worked great.
But when they tested it in there lab it was scary!! I had large temperature differences in all my cells.
The battery they built had vertically identical cell temps during high draw cycles.
There battery packS powers a 600hp EV Have climate management with what i call a A/C unit to control battery temps under high discharge rates.