Flats are better for E-bikes. The marginal improvement in pedaling efficiency from clips isn't really a factor for an e-bike. Using flats forces you to improve your bike handling skills as well. Clips can be a bandaid for poor technique.
I think I had to take it off in order to fit the hose + the park tools cable routing thing over it and through the hole. I remember it being a tight fit and I had to pull harder than I wanted to.
It's not too hard to replace the rear hose. It's actually easier on this bike than most internally routed acoustic bikes I've worked on. It's not internally guided, so you have to do everything "manually" (can't just push it through). You just need to drop the battery and thread the brake...
Umm, you're not bursting my bubble, haha. I don't have any emotional investment in your brake setup. I'm glad those brakes are working out for you. ?
I think we're talking about very different scales of descents though. I think that stuff like the codes will work fine for shorter/flatter...
It might be condition dependent. I’ve had great luck with mine despite being over 200 pounds and riding nothing but super steep Bay Area climbs. But of course weather is perfect here.
?♂️
Pretty much every brake setup is going to be insufficient for A 270 pound guy on a 52 pound bike. Your only hope is saints with 220 rotors and don’t ride anything steep.
If your 6'6" go with anything over 500mm reach if you can. I'm 6'7" and had quite a few super big bikes over the years (I've had GG make me custom super sized Megatrail, GGDH, and Pedalhead). I'm currently on an XXL Tallboy (515mm reach) as my main acoustic bike and XXL Decoy as my ebike...
I dunno, maybe you’re not riding them very hard or on that rocky terrain or something? This is a pretty well documented phenomenon on the interwebz and anecdotally I’ve seen it on friend’s bikes. ?♂️
Ebikes don’t do anything different in terms of wear and tear, just more. Any of the normal durable hubs will be fine: I9, Chris King, Hadley, dt Swiss 240/350, hope (less durable), etc.
Eddy currents are bad. They shed knobs like they’re going out of style. Just stick to the classics. They’re classic because they work. Dhf (or assegai) front, dhr (or high roller) rear. DH casing if you want. Everything else is basically designed to imitate these.
Uhhhh, what? You shouldn't need to be greasing those parts, lol. I've owned at least 20 high end bikes and assembled hundreds if not thousands. Never once have I greased or heard of anyone greasing their seat post rails.
If your codes need re-bleeding then it was not done correctly the first time. Or there is something wrong with the seals/assembly. There really aren't any modern brakes that struggle with "holding a bleed" or whatever you want to call it. There are only bad mechanics.
The codes are fine for...