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Pretty simple to do - just make note of how it comes apart (reference the Orbea Blue Paper for info, parts sequencing & torque specs). You will need the correct tool to remove the chainring and it is nice to have the Shimano tool to remove the connections to the motor, though with care, it can...

Yes, unsealed bearings would be a problem in the linkage! If your bike came with linkage bearings that have no seals, you should be able to have them replaced under warranty with the proper OEM sealed bearings. I would guess that they have been replaced since new and someone used an inferior...

The Cascade link appears to come with standard Enduro sealed bearings. Aren't the original Orbea linkage bearings the black oxide version of Enduro sealed bearings? I understood the black oxide version of the Enduro bearings was their premiere bearing for corrosion resistance... am I missing...

Had the same symptoms with my M-Team using the Acros headset bearings. I found that the steerer tube had been cut too short during assembly (manufacturer or dealer?). The upper of the two clamping stem bolts, when tightened correctly, would actually cause the stem to move/slip upward on the...

Here you go - Great wheels for the Rise

To follow up, removing the dropper cable from the right cable port on the carbon frame does allow for re-routing the rear brake hose through that same port along with the Shimano display wire. Dropping the motor and fork made it a simple task to properly route the rear brake hose through the...

Thanks for the reply. I am assuming your Rise is an aluminum frame, as the left side port is quite different from the carbon frame. I should have specified my inquiry was for a 2021 carbon Rise.

I am planning on removing my Fox Transfer dropper and installing an AXS dropper. Upon removal of the dropper cable, I was hoping that the rear brake hose would fit and could be routed thru the dropper cable's port on the right side of the head tube where the display wire also lives. I have...

Here you go... Rise Range Extender Sale price is current as of 12/12/2022 - don't know how long they'll be on sale, though.

Thank you for the insight. I like the direction you're planning on taking.

Is anyone running a 6-bolt Hope 180mm floating rear rotor on their carbon Rise and using a Shimano 4-piston caliper? Are there any clearance issues and which Shimano 4 piston caliper are you using? Did you have to modify/grind/file the caliper to get the necessary clearance for the 'rotor...

Thanks for checking on and passing along the feedback regarding the five bikes in your group. Agreed that the E*Thirteen chainring is the best available option and Orbea obviously thought so as well. Since E*Thirteen has acknowledged may dimensional changes in the 32T chainring since Orbea...

Since this subject regarding Check Your E*Thirteen e*spec chainring (clearance issue) has been hijacked, I would like to propose that in the future, those who wish to contribute to the EP8 spindle play/movement issue - follow this link for posting your findings/solutions. For E*Thirteen crank...

Here's another possible option that seems to work pretty well, given the angle of approach to tighten/loosen the crank bolt closest to the chainring -

Start here and scroll down to the Shimano and FSA 104BCD spiders - as noted, they generally are spec'd for 32T or larger, though you can get 30T 104 BCD chainrings. Wolf Tooth 30T and Race Face 30T, but be sure to get the correct tooth pattern for Shimano (if that's what your still running)...

Shimano EM900, M8150 XT or EM600 cranks fit. Should come with appropriate Shimano plastic preload bolt and be sure to remove all E*Thirteen dust seals. There are many threads that can be referenced relating to the appropriate cranks to replace the suspected problematic E13 cranks...

As stated, most likely will work fine but be sure to read the following, just to be well informed.

Thank you for the feedback that you have run across the issue with the current E*Thirteen chainring not having enough clearance on your friend's bike. The goal here is to let Chris at E*Thirteen know of these occurrences and hopefully they can appropriately address the change they have made to...

The chain guide bolt heads on my M-Team are pretty flat and really thin, maybe 1/4 to 1/3 the width of a chain roller - not much that can be removed - Are your bolt heads different in appearance? Aluminum or Carbon Rise? Doe your chain guide look like this? (click on web page picture of...

I'm not familiar with the chain guide mount on the Canyon with the EP8 motor... Is it a direct mount to the frame/chainstay pivot OR does it have an aluminum mount that attaches directly to the EP8 motor with 2 screws? If it is the latter, as shown in this chain guide link, good to hear you are...