Thank you for your amazingly informative answer!
I know the basics of eye to eye, but never heard of the Rise link - seems very interesting. I have the budget model of Rise M20. I'm about 85 kg with gear. I do want the rise snappy but still keep the 20 back due to roll over speed and clearance...
Thank you Ron for your reply and experiences.
Compared to what you ride my trails are very mellow but sometimes high speed and big roots/rocks really seam to test beyond the shocks limits. I have the 140/140 so I guess just a 150 fork will increase bb height by a few millimeters, but will it be...
So, I´we been thinking of upgrading shock and fork to 160 rear and 160 or 170 in front, bit still full 29er.
The reasons are the following:
For a second time in 1.5 year my frame cracked (rear triangle, left, now right side). Perhaps the shock is bottoming out to hard that the frame been...
Yeah, that’s my Rise. Pretty much exactly the same spot as the first crack, but on the right side this time. But the first crack, I never crashed, not even once. This time I went down the day before and scratched the carbon/color around the area that later broke.
Asking Orbea for a rear triangle...
It’s not surprising in any way, xc is about pedaling, and most of the xc tracks are for many riders ridiculously simple. But the xc riders can pedal like there’s no tomorrow so taking that away from them by using an engine will always make them feel threatened.
I don’t see the point of using an...
No, he just stretched it enough to connect to the rear brake. I would guess you would have to drop the motor for a dropper change. But can’t you use the same cable? I just connected the existing cable to my bike yoke dropper, and that was it.
Yeah Iwe noticed that the compression feels much "lighter" than many other bikes. I think I went for the yellow spacer in the shock ( If I remember correct) At aprox 82 kilo I was bottoming out all the time before. Now I still do but not that easy. In normal trail riding without jumps I use...
By volume reducers, du you mean spacers? I bought a few for the original shock and it made a huge difference. Still feels like I would need more traven, and rise the bb a bit to avoid pedal strikes (I´m getting better at avoiding, but stil..).
ok thanks. I would like to bump up the travel to 160 but all I´we seen so far is mullet 160, which I prefer not to. Will 216 x63 mm give around 160 mm?
Nice PaPaYoU. Really interested in your damper upgrade. Didn't you need any offset bushings for the ultimate 210x55 damper? Huw much did it rise the bb?
SO, I´we read that many had problems making the Rs toolbox work with Garmin. Is it still that hard?
I would love to get a Garmin watch (Forerunner 245) but won't if it won't work flawless with the Rise, since the main reason is to see battery percentage during rides.
Thanks for the input guys. I have ridden the Rise extremely carefully the few weeks I have owned it, but would like to do a little more enduro with us, so I guess its better to look for a used 160mm fork.
It’s a bit unclear weather you can upgrade Fox float performance 140mm fork with an 150mm airshaft. On some places it seems ok, on other it’s only possible with a 27.5 fork.
So have anyone here done the upgrade?
Will it make the fork too flexy?
That was my plan at first, then I thought it perhaps wasn’t gonna be that hard. The thing is, now when 90percent is done I would like to know how to remove the magnet in order to complete it. If the magnet can’t be removed then I’m afraid there are few bike shops around here that would help me...
That pretty muchsums up my fears regarding my warranty claim. I know it’s either a production or design fault, since my riding has been very careful. It’s just unbelievable if a company sells such an expensive bike and then deny warranty.