so looked at it with fork off and tried a punch but thought better of it before I went to ham fisted!! I called yt and the said just use the bars to reset it. So once I re mounted the fork I just slammed ( not too hard) the bars until it was centered again.. really easy actually.
So don’t...
just a personal opinion... that’s why I said it doesn’t suck it’s just my opinion. I don’t like running different wheel sizes, for one practical reason I like to swap tires alot and don’t want to have to buy different sizes.. also better tire selection in 29er vs 27.5 2.8 and I just feel like...
wow your brain has truly been taken over by The marketing dept.
Lots of reasons more travel is not always better. Same goes for chainstay lengths! On an ebike especially.
Also and most importantly it’s the rider not the bike, go watch skills with Phil video of him launching crab Apple hits...
I just noticed this today on my decoy.. turning bars left they hit the block sooner than turning right.. can the race move in a crash? wonder if it happened last crash I had.. wonder easiest way to recenter it? Any ideas?
Good point. This is definitely true! Had a couple good crashes before getting used to the weight coming into corners... also if it’s super steep tech once you lock your wheel you are moving, gotta go with the flow! Lol
One thing that helped with this for me was cutting my bars down to 760mm I...
Have not felt like it matters at all! In fact feels super planted and suspension works amazing with extra weight. I would worry about it tbh. In fact I’ll be adding more weight with coils! It’s just not as big a deal as a pedal bike. Even then I was never a weight weenie.. lightest my bike ever...
Haven’t done anything yet but I’ve done debonair spring in another fork, it’s easy. I’m running this one for a while because it’s fresh and probably do seals at same time since I think the seals on yari are not as good as lyrik. Lyrik uses lower friction seal.. at least I’ve been told. This is...
I bought the base knowing I’d upgrade... I always buy base models, I’m cheap and I’d rather customize to my liking. Along the way you discover some cheap base level stuff is bomb proof and you really don’t need to upgrade. Usually if something breaks then I’ll replace it with next tier up etc...
the yari is a lyrik with different internals.. easy to make it into a lyrik and you can go up to 180mm of travel. I’m going to bump mine to 160mm and add a coil conversion, looking at the one from vospring Smashpot - Fork Coil Conversion System
I run mine in low, haven’t tried high yet. Going...
I’m waiting for them to come in. Sold out in USA currently. Hopefully in next couple weeks. Then at some point I’ll send it to avalanche (tftuned equivalent in US) for a tune.
Plan on doing that soon! Think I’m going for the push coil spring upgrade so will replace air side with coil but definitely bumping to 160mm. That and a coil for the rear.
Ive been through a few saddles and really liking the ergon sm pro Ergon SM Pro Men's Saddle | Jenson USA
make sure you measure your sit bones and get correct width, makes big difference.
Wtb make good saddles as well the Silverado line is great.
bummer about saddles is you have to...
I’m just using E-TUBE app but set everything to high. I can pretty much just leave it in trail for most riding.
I have a set of carbon plus wheels I’m trying to sell, thinking about trying to run the on the decoy, should work in high mode! I need to buy a micro spline hub To try so if they...
1.Shorten you cables, at least in mine they delivered it with ridiculously long cables.
2. check B tension screw on rear mech
3. check software and make sure assistance level are set to you liking. Mine were in medium, a buddies were all in low.
4. I just got 35mm rise bars and cut them to...
yeah you will be good, I could have sized up as well. The one issue you may have is that you may have to run a lower dropper if you have short inseam. I’m 510.5 and run a 150mm all the way slammed on the large. I ran a 170mm on previous bike, couldn’t do that on decoy.