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My Flyon goes in limp-mode at 10%, because the system sees a light connect to the connector, seems this is a regulation. I have disconnected front and rear lights and needed to reset the system to use full capacity of the battery. Now i'm thinking how to connect them again without the system...

Dunlop and Schrader are the same size, all Dunlop tubes here are replaced with Schrader, even most Prestas. Now my wife too can pump the tires with the compressor and digital manometer.(y)

Good thing they invented the drill... 😎

If the chainring isn't damaged, just wear, i would try it with the new chain. Normally one chainring lasts several chains and cassettes. Btw, what type of motor has the 2.5?

.75... take a new chain, with a bit luck you don't need a new chainring, maybe you will need a new cassette.

Same here, 4 pairs, oldest 8-9 years, one pair has hit several rocks, pins bend, area around these pins also bend, but with normal maintenance, still running fine without play. I'm going to try that O ring idea too, thanks.

503... adjust the magnet, distance and centre on the line I had some problems too, first the gap was too big, adjusted it to 5 mm, again problems, now on 10 mm, until now no problems with 503.

If it's the same make as on the Flyon i have, i never would buy that again, because it's slow. I have here a Kindshock i950 and a Rockshox Reverb on my other bikes, those kick your ass, looking for a better one on the Flyon. A good seatpost has its price. What size is your post now?

I'll run MT5 here, had the same experience after an upgrade to Jagwire hose and new disc and pads on the back. After bleeding the lever feels hard, but with a test run bad performance, again bleeding, and yes.. a little bit air came out, but still bad performance :confused:. Did clean the disc...

You removed the lock.... the Flyon crank has a built-in crank puller, don't remove anything, just unscrew the bolt and it will push the crank off.

Two bolts, it's like adjusting the angle of the display on the bar.

You can't remove the display, just loosen the clamps and turn it upwards.

Winterreifen vom Profi – schwalbe.com Orrrrrr.....DIY.. How to make your own studded winter tyres

This is a picture from the Shimano manual and i only use this for Shimano systems, never had any problem with it. With a hardtail this is a fast and easy method, with a fully a bit more, but that is once, next time you just have to count the links.

Don't know the exact Saint model you have, but you can buy the spindles, this spindle fits multiple models. Shimano Ersatzachse für PD-GR500

DMR Vault, concave bed, no axle housing pressing in your sole, pins with thread. 4 bikes, 4 sets, no problems, bit of service, oldest set is about 8 years old. Perfect fit with the wide 5-10 Impact shoes.

Ah yes, i understand now, if around the bolts was an index bushing.... Maybe i have cleaned the area well or tightened the bolts a bit more, but until now not this problem for me....

On top of the motor is an index bolt, which fits into a hole in the frame, so there are three points where the motor is held in place. And the chassis connector is a floating construction, therefore the connector has guides, which will slide the chassis connector into place.

Ever done a serious break in, everything seems well adjusted, but i miss a sharply delineated trace at the bottom and top, looks pretty new. And are your brakes feeling hard, air in the system makes you loose braking power and the pistons can't be pulled back maximum.

Is the triangle hitting the underside of the top tube, small frame?