The line and distance are important, had some 503 errors here, distance was to big, lined it up with a 5mm gap, but after some months 503 again, changed the gap to 11mm and no more 503's.
No, the M99 Pro uses 24-60V, you can hook this light up straight to the battery 36V, it switches on and off by movement.
But i decided to use the light switch on the Bosch computer.
If the light used 12V i needed a converter too.
Furthermore i used a fuse in the 36V wire and a diode over the...
To keep wiring original you can buy a Bosch cable set for the Enviolo hub, this set has a tap for the 36V.
Bosch Kabelsatz Rahmen-Akku Nuvinci Harmony - Active / Performance
I made a cable like this myself to run a Supernova M99 Pro on my wife's bike, relay switched by the 12V light port.
I'm running a 240 EXP 36t on a Flyon with 120Nm.
Over 2000Km and no visible wear, i lube it with all-weather chain lube, no grease.
I think the one-spring design of the EXP is doing a good job about engaging the rachets, the minor wear to the alu body is the same as on my analog bikes.
Sounds to me as if the cassette isn't being clamped enough by the lock ring, missing lock ring washer?
Is the lock ring resting/ tightened against the "bottom" of the body because of too many threads?
What is the distance from the body flange to the tightened lock ring without the cassette and...
Solvent is a no go for this type of repair, use glue.
But glue only will hold the pieces together, not withstand forces.
You have to reinforce it, imo, there's enough surface on the outside for a layer of fibreglass.
Kind of this frame?
Problem is the damper under and inline with the seat tube
If you can feed the cable from the seat tube, around the damper, back into the frame, up into the downtube, maybe it will, but beware of the short seat tube.
With the MRS rail loosen the upper bracket and slide it a bit down (or maybe up) the rail and tighten it again, maybe you have to remove the rubber strip for a moment.
You can finetune your wheel circumference with the Bosch display yourself, but that's within a certain range for 29 or 27.5, there's no overlap as far as i know.
Btw. my wife's R&M has the Bosch Intuvia.
I did that after the update to 85Nm and adding the MTB-mode, tried to get a bit more...
When you got a new motor, they need to put the right software in too, and that motor doesn't see what wheel size your running, that's telling the software him.
My wife's R&M with Bosch CX4 got upgraded too, at the shop they had a list of versions to choose from, with or without MTB-mode, 85Nm....
I think you only need the software of the small 27,5 frame, at the Cannondale shop there are several versions software to choose from.
Motor and computer are the same, software is the difference.
At the moment i'm trying to do a minimum of 2 times a week a 2 hour, 34 miles and 2000 feet of climbing, everything off road.
It's the only local trail with some climbing, 8.5 miles long, so riding that 4 times, sometimes even 5, in better weather/ trail conditions i'm trying to go to do 6...
Sensor is pretty critical, i've had problems with the sensor on the outer limits, now it's about 11 mm and straight on the marking and working fine now for over 10k.
On your picture looks like the magnet is not in line with the marking.
A good drill bit and a set of Schrader's is a lot cheaper and more useful in case of tubeless.
Presta and the like is nice for narrow road rims and weight weenies.
My wife has a gen4, you can switch the lights manually on the controller/ display, if you switch the bike off with the lights on, the next time you use the bike they turn on automatically.
She has the lights always on, because the light has a DRL function, Supernova M99 Pro.