Battery disconnection update
After having installed the new latch, and all errors erased from the bike and the upper support checked by the LBS, I thought all problems were solved...
but no!
Battery has already disconecting itself, so before contacting Canyon (again...), I figured I would...
Currently using the Eddy in 2.6 orange stripe.
It feels thougher than DHR it replaced, but it's not as gripy.
From the rides I had, it feels like a more durable tire.
Upfront, I prefer the Maxxis Assegai to the Magic (have orange stripe and purple stripe), since the Assegai can maintain a notch...
Check the wheel base and if it fits on the support.
Yakima had a limit of 1200mm if I can recall.
Although there is a weight limit, any ebike will be within acceptable range, taking into consideration that bike racks should have a safety factor greater than 1.5 (18kg limit × 1.5 ~ 27kg).
I'm surprise for the cost you are quoted for a full service [but that it is what it is...]
Canyon CFR has Shimano Microspline, so you'll need a new freewheel body from DTSwiss (Sram XD). You can buy it at some online store
(Ex: Conversion Kit SRAM XD Pawl Drive System Freehub Body)...
Bought this rack to carry my full power eMTB (over 25kg), and never had issues until now.
I would say, you need to check if you're able to lift your beast above your head, even after the normal ride, and have an height to place it above the roof.
I wouldn't advice placing this on a MPV/SUV -...
Nordest Bikes just released a * * N E W * * ebike.
Frame made from titanium, Shimano's motor, 600W battery, and a very aggressive geometry (64° HA, long and low).
This one, had a Helm Fork @160mm
Looks really nice
Because, these threads are worthless without pictures...
Here we go again..........
Bike not working... and just before holidays!
Hope Canyon can resolve this in 2 weeks time
😞
Back to Moto, at least it doesn't throw any errors!
Had problems @1.000km, but installed a new latch (old design) + ziptie everything, so that there isn't any movement, what so ever.
Up until now - everything is ok!
BTW:
Anyone installed a 500W battery to the Strive :ON
Not all have english has 1st language.
One thing is Facts, other are opinions - I completly understand and have to agree with you. It was not the best words.
I'll correct it - thank you.
I've added a picture regarding the issue with position, and while doing it,
I remember there are different styles while riding. I'll try to clarify, making clear some facts:
Some riders will take turns with their pedals level (lets assume riderA), while others will drop the outside pedal...
I did those distances...not now unfortenatly, but yes, now that I think about it, you might be right.
Bosch dealer has the tool to change that.
If you update FlowApp, there is now "eMTB short crank" mode.
It's not an opinion, is just facts.
My opinion?
Try it. It's not that expensive to try using cheap cranks.
I switched crank length on some bikes, and where I found a thrully difference, was on my roadbike (Due to distances - and long time on the saddle - usually 11.000km/year)
On mtbs (riding...
Installing new cranks, and mainting all current setup (triangle composed of all contact points: saddle/pedal/grips) will require:
#1- update on software, so that the torque sensing is corrected
#2- elevating the saddle to maintain lenght between saddle/pedal
#3- elevating handlebar, to maintain...
Both, no preference what so ever.
Just Send It!
PS: it's a matter of training & practice.
Normally people prefer to skid/cuties to one side, but you still need to be able to do it to the other, "uncomfortable " side.
Practice...practice...practice!