I know exactly what to do, the pistons were fully pushed back into the calipers, like I do every time I fit new pads
These pads were just thicker than the usual ones, maybe down to a manufacturing defect, and they are currently working just fine in the front caliper
I 100% know I purchased the correct ones
They went in the front caliper just fine, I did have to sand the pad down a little to stop them rubbing
They do look a little thicker than the standard SRAM ones to my eyes
I had similar issues with a set on my rear Guide RE caliper
If I did manage to get them in they were super tight and didnt allow the wheel to rotate
A different brand of pads went in perfectly fine
I need to replace the rears again at the weekend so will be trying another set of Galfer pads I...
Good to hear,
Youtube is great for helping fix bike issues
I was clueless when I first started riding, but now I tackle pretty much everything on the bike myself, as long as I have the required tools for the job
Not sure if its the angle of the pic, but the mech hanger looks bent to my eyes
If it is that will also have an effect on the shifting
Here is what I would do,
Shift to the top gear and then set the limit screw, repeat for the low gear limit screw
This way you can't drop off the cassette (or...
The one closest to the cassette
Shift into the largest cog and then measure from the bottom of the cassette to the top of the jockey wheel closest
Aim for 5mm
Then check t make sure you are shifting up and down the cassette without issues
Ideally you need the sram tool to properly check, but you can measure from the cassette to the top jockey wheel
You want around a 5mm gap between the cassette and the jockey wheel
I have no issues with any of the Peaty Products
Currently use
Divetrain Degreaser - the foaming variety, works really well for me
PT17 - Again, no issues, use it pretty frequently on the hock linkages, dropper cable etc
Protect and Shine - Not used it much as mainly got it for the stanchons...