I don't think there is any escaping that short of packing a bunch of grease around the rachet but It wouldn't last long and would potentially make engagement ununreliable. After seeing how narrow the bush is id suggest not backpedalling them if you can avoid it.
Fwiw I have done 200km of trail riding on this bike since reassembling the motor (not my main bike) and it performs well, there is no noticeable difference in range or performance and no crank play. I think adding a second green seal would improve the longevity of the motor and could be achieved...
I have taken it for a quick test ride, only about 20m up the street and back as my shock is away for a service and I've put another one in there that fouls on the frame. But it works. It assists, feels normal, I can back pedal the crank and it doesn't drag the chainring backwards. So all seems...
OK il forget the oring. So you don't recommend grease between the shafts either? Mine had evidence of grease in it. Unfortunately I wasn't the one to take my motor apart, I just got it back in a box after I paid for a rebuild so I'm not totally sure what did/didn't have grease on it to begin with.
Here is a picture of my polished shaft and bushes. My shaft wasn't as badly pitted as the ones in the link another person posted. I have considered putting an oring behind the seal to further prevent water getting in but il have to see if there is space
Are there any aftermarket suppliers for that bush? I have my motor apart at the moment, the crank shaft is quite pitted with rust and one of the two bushes is quite worn, causing play in the drive side crank and the assistance to cut out for a split second at a certain point in the crank...
Thanks for that info, I'll see if the shop can pre program it off the bike, or if the bosch distributor can do it before it's dispatched.
The shop that has my bike is 4 hours drive away and about an hour beyond that is a really great bike park so I'm hoping I can go there, pick up my bike and...
Interesting. In my own understanding of CAN (from converting electric busses) the motor should include its own CAN identifier in the messages it sends, and there's not really any reason the new motor would have a different identifier than the old motor as they are the same brand and model.
Hi all, as the title states I would like to know if a brand new performance line CX G4 motor needs to be programmed or any kind of calibration done on it when it's installed on a bike, or is it a plug and play type of thing? The bike is not smart system, if that matters. Prurion controller and...
So, for anybody interested the 0.86 and 1.02 cubic inch spacers are not recommended for a 55mm stroke shock with "CR too high" appearing in the notes column for these two. I fitted the 0.4 cubic inch spacer which I think I'm happy with, no more harsh bottom out and good support in the mid...
Has anybody here tried changing the volume spacers in a DPX2 fitted to a bosch jam2 6.9? Currently I have the smallest spacer, 0.2 cubic inch and am running the shock at 285psi to get a supportive feel. I'm not super heavy, 90kg with gear, CamelBak etc. And I think 285PSI is way too high a...
Yeah more because the things I've done to my Jam2 (slacker HA, mullet, more travel, burlier shock) are just making it how a Sam2 comes out factory. Definitely liking the shorter chainstays, it's so easy to pop the front up now and it feels a lot more comfortable in tighter berms
This is my '21 jam2 6.9 I bought in march '22 because it was pretty much all there was available with a Shimano/fox build. The headset lasted all of 200km before seizing and being swapped out for a 1.5 degree angle set from works components and a 170mm air shaft in the fork to bring the front...
Hey guys Im sure this has already been mentioned and I've probably just speed read the thread and missed it - but did you guys flipping the chip have to change the brake caliper mount? I'm going to mullet my jam2 and I want to make sure I've got all the bits first.
Works components do an angle headset that presses in place of the top cup and accepts an standard sized top bearing. I think you can get one in a .5 degree if you don't want to mess with your geometry. This one on my jam2 is 1.5 degree.
I had similar problems, my headset failed after about 300kms. I don't think they are a very good headset. Luckily the ZS56/ZS56 setup lends itself well to an aftermarket angle set - so I slackened the head angle on my jam2 by 1.5 degrees and ditched the stupid cable in stem setup when I replaced...
I meant to leave in the car, so you can swap batteries if you return to the carpark for a lunch/drink break. Or alternatively if you are travelling, camping etc. And don't have access to a charger to charge overnight a spare battery can come in handy.
I don't think I ever suggested people would...