Let me explain my issue, my drive side crank arm has been coming loose despite torquing it the specified 50Nm, the (extraction) caps are seized in place, I’ve applied heat with no success, I’ve also tried WD40 and penetrating oil which was also unsuccessful, I’ve tried lightly tapping it, also...
Many thanks for the suggestion of the pin spanner, I’ve done a Google search and Bob’s your uncle, Fanny’s your aunt, Screwfix has one for £2.99, my order is in and I’ll pick it up on Friday, I’ve never heard of one of these before so thanks for bringing it to my attention guys, every day is a...
Many thanks buddy, I can’t get any in that size tube in this country, it’s £20+ in this country for what looks like a big tub 🙄 however I do have some excellent quality copper grease designed for vehicle brakes, would that be ok to use on my aluminium caps.
I think the only way I’m going to get the caps off now is with a Dremmel and cutting disc attachment and try to cut the cap as deep as I can diagonally into 4 smaller sections and try a split it up and off without cutting into the crank arm cap threads, either way the caps are totally mullered...
50Nm is the torque for the main crank arm bolt, the cap is a friction fit but I only nipped it up, can’t understand why it’s in there so tight, believe it or not that’s been tightened with the official Hope tool which is as handy as toothache and without Loc-tite as well 👍
Thanks guys, I’ll try these methods and get back to you all ASAP, better get my heat gun out, I’ve just realised that I don’t have a cold chisel but I do have some straight shaft punches with nice flat ends 👍
Right I’ve had enough of my drive side crank arm coming loose, the trouble is both caps on my crank arms are stuck solid, I’ve tried the Hope removal tool and that’s toast as well now, has anyone got any ideas, the crank arms are still removable but the caps are mullered, I’ve bought some new...
And use something like Araldite or JB weld to hold the ends in place and scuff the ends with a little rough sandpaper, I thought the rail would come out mate 👍😉
It’s been a while since I bought a Timber bell for my bike but on a few rides it’s been really annoying me with jingling when it’s been in the locked off position, so I’ve been online and found a bell that’s got good reviews, it’s loud, discreet and quite cheap, time will tell if it’s any good...
Must be different from the one I had because removing the screw resulted in the rail being able to be removed, that’s why I suggested it 😉👍
Which ever way you look at it it’s a poor show from a company as big as Ergon, I’m glad I have bought a WTB saddle, they’re cheap enough to be replaced if...
In my opinion (for what it’s worth) you could try loosening the front machine screw, see if it comes out, if it does, see if there’s any movement on the rail that’s still attached to the saddle, if there is remove the rail completely and check it out for any signs of bending, if it still...
I decided to pick up some spare parts following my shoddy attempt at stopping my bike from creaking which incidentally I did 🫣 I thought it a good idea I read the book instead of eating the covers 🤣🤣 and bought some new crank arm extraction bolts, a spare cover and the tool for removing it, no...
Yep you’re not wrong about the differing opinions mate but there’s a lot of people in here that know a lot more than I do about bikes so I’m grateful for the help, I checked all the mating surfaces, made sure there’s no galling, used some marine grease as it’s known for it’s anti seizing...
I know it’s not cheap but have you considered going private for your treatment, I recently witnessed a suicide and sought advice from the NHS only to be told I’d be waiting for months for the minimum CBT therapy, the trouble is I need EMDR trauma therapy which is a much longer waiting list, I...