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Connect to the Shimano e-tube app, it'll tell you which motor, display and handlebar power switch you have.

Yes, SX and NX 12 speeds use a standard HG driver. But you will need to ensure the spacer ring between the hub and cassette is installed.

Maybe they come ready to install, no oil or bleeding required? Someone must know?

RS just says "bleed" no mention of the amount required?

Received my Charger 2.1 damper today to upgrade the Yari's. Does anyone know approximately how much oil the bladder needs to fill and bleed? Cheers.

I think it depends on which 8035 you have the standard short version or the BT 8035-L, the latter (with the L suffix) is dimensionally the same as the 8036 but 504w Vs 630w.

I forgot to add, you will need a spacer between the hub and cassette (you will probably already have one fitted on the HG driver). Ensure it's on before torquing up to 40NM!

Yes it's fitted and all good. The only problem you'll probably run into is the original B screw is laughably short. I pinched the screw out of the SRAM derailleur I replaced (don't forget to swap over the small friction block before installing the longer screw). When installed it's just a case...

It's not the vibration as such, it's the sometimes jarring stiffness the standard Yari (MY2023 Yari with the C1 air spring) suffers at around mid stroke, which causes severe shocks through the wrists/arms/shoulders/upper back which is OK/no big deal on a short blast but when hitting chonk...

I updated all my EP8 systems (motor, display, handlebar power mode switch) only last week, and the answer is not a lot. Maybe a few percent in range (guessing 5%), but it does seem a little torqueier in ECO.

Agreed, unless it specifically says assemble and torque dry then a drop of lubricant is the correct way to torque a fastener. The OP should also check the threads aren't damaged as 50NM is quite a high torque value.

Front forks and rear shock service kits, and a Charger 2.1 damper to upgrade the Yari to Lyric spec. I was sick and tired of feeling beaten up (arms, shoulders upper back) after a long ride, so hopefully the new 2.1 will soften the front end up a bit.

Anyone any suggestions on jackets (no not the usual outer waterproof/ windproof polymer type). Looking for something like cotton, maybe a lightweight fleece or something similar, lightweight but vented/ highly breathable, no need for waterproofing with zip pockets and no hood? And affordable, of...

It's a shifting ramp, makes gear changes easier, by disengaging the chain from the sprocket teeth.

A bit overkill when the sun's out?

You didn't read my earlier post, did you? We all have our favourite brands and methods of chain/ drivetrain maintenance, and some just don't care/can't be bothered. It's not your money being spaffed away, so get over it. I've got a garage full of lubricants, degreasers and waxes, why do I or...

Me too, went for a ride Friday after work, legs covered in blood from brambles, and legs and arms stung to high heaven. Oh, and ferns/bracken, got a good whipping from the blighters after they replanted themselves around the rear mech and cassette, so I'm going to add ferns to my rant.

There's always the bin it option, do the minimum maintenance and just buy another, probably cheaper than using expensive lubes in the long run, and certainly easier.

I #@¥ing hate them, especially at this time of year when they're drooping over the single-tracks, oh and brambles. Rant over.

My method, clean chain and drivetrain. Then apply a light oil, wipe of excess with isopropanol on a clean rag until dry. Then I discovered wiping the chain over with a decent car wax (think I'm using some Poorboys Natty's Wax, a semi soft car wax) on a clean rag keeps the oil between the side...