Yet another problem with my brand new (3 rides) rail.

[GrantMeThePower]

The dropper post has seemed a bit sticky from the beginning. It’s now stopped functioning right. I adjusted the tension of the cable and even loosened the collar to verify it isn’t tight. Sometimes it doesn’t actuate at all. I have to hop on it and I can hear it grinding on its way up and down.

Is this another warranty issue?

vid linked

 

[GrantMeThePower]

Hopefully you can hear the grinding in the video and see how hard I have to slam into the seat to get it to move and see how it sticks

 

[Landy Andy]

Mine was the same. Looked at a couple of vids on you tube, and then took top collar off and next seal down (all whilst fitted to bike), cleaned it all, bit of oil, reassemble, and all good as new. 10mins work ????

 

[GrantMeThePower]

Mine was the same. Looked at a couple of vids on you tube, and then took top collar off and next seal down (all whilst fitted to bike), cleaned it all, bit of oil, reassemble, and all good as new. 10mins work ????

Thanks I’ll give that a shot.

do you recall which vids or what the search query was? I’m finding it tough to findany info on this exact tranz-x model

 

[Landy Andy]

I just did a general search. Something like “dropper seat post maintanance“ watched a couple of them, and then fast viewed another couple. Was practically at the buying stage, then thought I’d give it a go, and was pretty much saying, “really, is that all that is in them, and how basic they are”. Thought I’d have to do the full rebuild as shown, but the small service, and fully cured. Well chuffed ????

 

[kiwibiker]

I had exactly the same problem. Took it back after 2 weeks as it wouldn't drop at all. Now it's just crunchy. Il be asking for another i think

 

[GrantMeThePower]

I took off the top seal, cleaned and lubed it. It made it better but it was still "sticky" like it was when I first got it. Decided to head down to the Trek shop to check and make sure it wasn't failing.

They took a look and said, "it is working fine. This is about the cheapest dropper post you can get so I think what you're noticing is just a lower end part."

 

[Yos]

After watching your video it looks like you push more to the back of the saddle, try to push down toward the nose of the saddle and it will move much smother . on my analog bike a fox dropper post is installed and moves fast like a crazy horse, it took me time to get used to the sticky feeling and now after 10 month I don't care

 

[mxtyphoon]

I added a dropper post and I use some silicone spray on it to keep it nice and free. Also on my forks and shock

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Very few mechanics can disassemble a dropper post and figure out what's wrong with it. According to my buddy , who does understand it, all these posts are basically similar but with different specifics. Ya gotta find someone who actually understands what's up or failing that get one of the more common brands such as fox , ks lev or reverb..but even then someone actually has to have a technical mind. My key is only buy hydraulics from a local bike shop that has someone with skills. That's why you pay retail and not buy on line to save 10- 15% . Buy from someone who stands behind their product. You calling customer service is something to try to avoid. Let them send it back to the vendor if that's the only option. Plus don't get crap on the post. That's what fenders and other rubber mcivers are about. There usually are little guide pins or cylinders that the post slides on. You need someone that knows how they exactly work. Whomever is looking at your shop hasn't the slightest idea how it works. One of the shops I use when I'm in the sedona az area didn't even want to touch a near brand new reverb and " just buy a new fox transfer" which I almost did but my real mechanic Mike , fixed it when back home in an hour...but it still cost me an hours labor , which I was more than happy to.pay.

 

[Mr_Price]

If anyone finds good video links please do post them. This is likely the first major component I plan to upgrade on my bike. The stock version is awful. I already swapped the lever for a PNW Loam which helped.

 

[mxtyphoon]

If you get a different one, you may have to drop the motor some to route the cable. Had to on my Powerfly which included taking off the cranks to get the covers out of the way to reach one bolt.

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Let me add that the most common problem on e-bike dropper posts is the routing of the cable. If it's taking some kind of sharp turn around something or slightly pinched and some manner it will be misery until fixed.

 

[Paul Mac]

The Bontrager post is one of gas charged cannister types.
It is dead easy to service.
Basically the gas charged cartridge is an unserviceable item it is just like the gas spring in an office chair.
I have noticed it is sensitive to temperature, I.e if cold outside it isn't as perky as in hotter weather and this is due to the gas shrinking and expanding.
If the post is functioning but feels rough, this will just be grit in the sliding part of the post.
It's literally just two pieces of tube that slide in and out of each other with a keyway to stop them rotating.
Just take apart clean, re grease and put back together.

 

[cabbynate]

When that post gets old and or you can feel ok with spending the cash, the rockshox axs is sweet! I put one on my 2018 Focus Jam2 plus pro and love it. The old Reverb was getting long in the tooth and I use my dropper a lot.

 

[steve_sordy]

Dropper posts work by an internal component sliding up and down inside the outer casing. If the seat post clamp is too tight it can constrict the outer casing and squeeze the internals. If slackening the seat clamp until it is free again means that your dropper is not clamped securely enough use some assembly paste like this by Finish-Line. It is designed for clamping on carbon fibre components, but works just fine on alloy as well. It works by increasing the friction between the clamped components and reducing the need for high clamping force.

Finish Line Fiber Grip Assembly Gel | Chain Reaction

Finish Line Fiber Grip Assembly Gel - Lowest Prices and FREE shipping available from The World's largest online bike store - Chain Reaction Cycles

www.chainreactioncycles.com

You don't need much. I bought a small tube and I still have loads left.

 

[Wilko58]

A few of the comments above mention that there is a keyway to stop the dropper turning but noticed in your vid that you could turn the saddle. I've got the same dropper and my saddle doesn't turn so I'm wondering if you've got some damage which is causing the issues?

 

[Stihldog]

A few of the comments above mention that there is a keyway to stop the dropper turning but noticed in your vid that you could turn the saddle. I've got the same dropper and my saddle doesn't turn so I'm wondering if you've got some damage which is causing the issues?

I have the same dropper as in the vid and mine doesn’t turn like that. An internal key-way is suppose to prevent this turning motion. If the column or tube has slightly jumped the key-way , no amount of grease or lube is gonna solve the problem. Small metal shavings are caused and the post will feel and sound gritty. Take it apart or take it back.

Proper routing of the cable is important also along with correct torque on the seat post clamp. A very small amount of grease is needed on a regular maintenance when the steady ring is undone. Activate the dropper at this time to remove any grit.

I installed a wolf-tooth remote because the original sucked. I’m no expert on droppers btw. Just spit-balling here.

 

[Wilko58]

I installed a wolf-tooth remote because the original sucked. I’m no expert on droppers btw. Just spit-balling here.

I'm looking at changing the remote, on first use after the previous ride it is really hard to even move a fraction but once that is done it operates fine all ride although not as easy as I'd like.

 

[Matt_Rider]

I added a dropper post and I use some silicone spray on it to keep it nice and free. Also on my forks and shock

Why would you spray silicone spray on everything? Just keep it clean and serviced.

 

[Stihldog]

I'm looking at changing the remote, on first use after the previous ride it is really hard to even move a fraction but once that is done it operates fine all ride although not as easy as I'd like.

I changed two other remotes on the neighbor’s bikes to wolf-tooth. We all agree this was a noticeable improvement. The action is better then the original remote lever.
Regular maintenance on all this stuff helps too.

 

[Stihldog]

Why would you spray silicone spray on everything? Just keep it clean and serviced.

I have this silly routine. On certain days I ride and maintain trails. On other days I ride and maintain my bike. Most of the time I ride and have fun. I rinse off the dirt after each ride and (I think I have a syndrome ?) use the proper lubes, grease and pastes during regular maintenance.
Sounds like a lot of work but…

 

[Wilko58]

Why would you spray silicone spray on everything? Just keep it clean and serviced.

I wash my bike then as well as lubricating the chain I spray silicon lubricant on the dropper post, forks and shock. It seems to help.

 

[Philly G]

I wash my bike then as well as lubricating the chain I spray silicon lubricant on the dropper post, forks and shock. It seems to help.

Nothing wrong with using a bit of silicone, but if too much is used too often it will actually start to break down the thin suspension grease ( eg slickoleum ) that is used in dropper posts and suspension. On the dropper, it is better to clean the stanchion and the seal, then unscrew the collar and run a smear of slickoleum ( or your light grease of choice ). For the fork and shock, something like WPL fork boost lube works quite well.

 

[Wilko58]

Nothing wrong with using a bit of silicone, but if too much is used too often it will actually start to break down the thin suspension grease ( eg slickoleum ) that is used in dropper posts and suspension. On the dropper, it is better to clean the stanchion and the seal, then unscrew the collar and run a smear of slickoleum ( or your light grease of choice ). For the fork and shock, something like WPL fork boost lube works quite well.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of getting some SRAM Butter (think that's what it was called!).

 

[Zimmerframe]

slickoleum

Can't this only be harvested in the few moments when @BAMBAMODA is chatting up a lady ? So it's very very rare and incredibly expensive ?

 

[Philly G]

Can't this only be harvested in the few moments when @BAMBAMODA is chatting up a lady ? So it's very very rare and incredibly expensive ?

You may be right Zimm, perhaps SRAM Butter is a better option ?

 

[Philly G]

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of getting some SRAM Butter (think that's what it was called!).

Yes SRAM butter or any light suspension grease is perfect for the job ?

 

[>moto<]

Why would you spray silicone spray on everything? Just keep it clean and serviced.

It reduces stiction in your suspension by ensuring the seals are proeprly lubed.

I'm not sure I would be using SRAM butter though, it's a grease. Make sure you don't end up with a greasy shaft

 

[Matt_Rider]

It reduces stiction in your suspension by ensuring the seals are proeprly lubed.

I'm not sure I would be using SRAM butter though, it's a grease. Make sure you don't end up with a greasy shaft

It also drags the silicone into the suspension degrading the oil.