Washing your ebike

[Uppy]

Hi, I like to ask people's views how they maintain there ebike at home..do you service it at home?

Also what do you find the best way to wash your bikes..ebike
I use a watering can wash it, then use some friendly bike wash (GUYS) then rinse it with a watering can then dry it off..

 

[Sportsman]

I do a light rinse with hose the use muc off n sponge a brush to brush bits off just be carefull around the motor is all i would say

 

[Kangr]

washing? er.... you have to wash them

 

[Injidup]

washing? er.... you have to wash them

Only when they get dirty.
As for servicing, as my e-bike is brand new it gets a free first service. After that I can maintain it, unless it’s something I don’t have tools for, or competent skills. On my acoustic bike I’ve had the freewheel rebuilt several times by my bike shop as they know what they are doing. Likewise with bleeding brakes.

 

[Sijmes]

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

First thing I do is remove the battery, then the wheels and clean the frame in a bike stand.
Then gentle hose pipe with hot water (50 Deg c)
Then muc off pink and soft brush/sponge
Then Muc off protect and shine buffed with micro fibre.

Same process for wheels but with a stiffer brush on the tires, and before using Protect and Shine I cover the rotors with plastic bags. its worth doing the spokes also so you can feel if any are loose or too tight.

Then I take the jockey wheels out and clean them and the inner cages.
Then I do the chain with GT85 and rag - same for the front chainring.
Then I do the stanchions with Slick honey and compress everything a bit to get the seals coated in honey.
Then I try to rattle everthing I have not touched to make sure nothing has come loose

This might seem OTT but where I ride it is solid clay and flint, which sets like concrete and is very abrasive.

This is what I have to contend with:

 

[Sijmes]

Sounds pretty thorough ?

 

[Spectral ON Nick]

What would you do if you cannot remove the battery, IE on a Focus Jam with internal battery in the down-tube. Removing it is waaaay to much hassle. Every time I wash mine, I get a bit of water in the motor area, no matter how careful I am.

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

Exactly the same as a normal bike. Just make sure it's turned off.

 

[Tim29]

I have always pressure washed mine I’m just careful around seals and bushings. Not to blow water into them.
People think I’m crazy but i been pressure washing my dirt bikes and bicycles since 80’s and i have never had an issue because of it.
But i have seen many issues with wheel bearings and bottom brackets from people who can’t seem to understand where and how close you can get

 

[bissona]

Normal hose, avoid blasting electricy bits, scrub will long-handled dishwashing brush . My JAM sometimes turns itself off (I often leave it on to see what will happen), and can be a little stubborn to restart after a good wash, but we always get there with a little encouragement.

 

[Norange]

 

[Tim29]

View attachment 8622

I can honestly say my bike never been anywhere near that muddy, out trail system has a 48hr drying period there closed after it rains.
So by time trail open there only puddles that for most part you can avoid most of them. Or i go slow through them as i don’t have fenders.
That’s about as dirty as mine gets around here. It’s been raining 7 straight days.

 

[steve_sordy]

In the UK here. I have gone from late May to late November without feeling the need to wash the bike at all. I just wiped the chain and stanchions and then lubed them before each ride. Since late Nov, the bike has had to be washed and lubed after every ride.
I must say however, that this was the first year that has ever happened for me.

 

[Norange]

That's actually quite clean. This is what it looks like after today's commute ?

 

[Doomanic]

Commute? Bloody hell! My bike was cleaner than that after 12 miles in the FoD...

 

[steve_sordy]

@ Norange: After that commute, what do you look like?

 

[Norange]

I look like I regret not pestering my director more for a shower at work! Gear dries well in the boiler room...

 

[Chaindog]

Since the battery in the 2019 Levo is in the frame do I have to remove it every time for cleaning?

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

Since the battery in the 2019 Levo is in the frame do I have to remove it every time for cleaning?

Nope. That'll then leave the connectors loose and exposed.

 

[njn]

Even more fun when it's below 32°.

 

[Gravityslave]

Normal hose, avoid blasting electricy bits, scrub will long-handled dishwashing brush . My JAM sometimes turns itself off (I often leave it on to see what will happen), and can be a little stubborn to restart after a good wash, but we always get there with a little encouragement.

Hiya, just got a Sam2 and all my rides have been muddy, so been washing regularly. Last ride when i turned it upside down for the car, I got a bit of water coming out around the top tube switch. So last night thought I would do a check on the inside of the frame through the vent ports and take off the switch. Switch is well weatherproofed, looks IP66, which is nice. But looked through into the headtube and there was a pool on the bottom headset bearing!!

I've got plenty of bikes and never seen anything that bad. Tipped back to drain and soaked it out rest with paper towel, given light spray in there with some foaming lube too (new Muc Off eBike Ultra Corrosion Defence, works well, foams - spreads - dies back 9 great for lightly coating pivot bearings and seals around motor BB )

I think some water is getting in around the switch when washing, this has now been sealed a bit better with light grease. Either that or the rubber seal around the steerer tube is not working well ( I had to drop the forks out to cut down when changing stem. Noticed that the rubber had been nicked a little during assembly and that top bearing was already getting a little rusty anyway, it was surface was v dry, have put a light smear of grease on for protection there).

Anyhow, with all these extra holes in these frames a think it is worth checking, and doing some back tipping after washing to clear the headtube. Also if you can a little something sprayed into there may help to keep that race seal from letting in water. I'm expecting needing to put a new bottom race in after winter at the mo. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[bissona]

Hiya, just got a Sam2 and all my rides have been muddy, so been washing regularly. Last ride when i turned it upside down for the car, I got a bit of water coming out around the top tube switch. So last night thought I would do a check on the inside of the frame through the vent ports and take off the switch. Switch is well weatherproofed, looks IP66, which is nice. But looked through into the headtube and there was a pool on the bottom headset bearing!!

I've got plenty of bikes and never seen anything that bad. Tipped back to drain and soaked it out rest with paper towel, given light spray in there with some foaming lube too (new Muc Off eBike Ultra Corrosion Defence, works well, foams - spreads - dies back 9 great for lightly coating pivot bearings and seals around motor BB )

I think some water is getting in around the switch when washing, this has now been sealed a bit better with light grease. Either that or the rubber seal around the steerer tube is not working well ( I had to drop the forks out to cut down when changing stem. Noticed that the rubber had been nicked a little during assembly and that top bearing was already getting a little rusty anyway, it was surface was v dry, have put a light smear of grease on for protection there).

Anyhow, with all these extra holes in these frames a think it is worth checking, and doing some back tipping after washing to clear the headtube. Also if you can a little something sprayed into there may help to keep that race seal from letting in water. I'm expecting needing to put a new bottom race in after winter at the mo. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Thanks GS, great investigation! I've had the top switch out but hadn't looked into the headtube. Will check mine this eve and report back if it's swimming in there. Any chance it could've come from the cable inlet vents? I've always hoped that they just run down the downtube and out by the motor but should probably check now....

 

[Gravityslave]

Thanks GS, great investigation! I've had the top switch out but hadn't looked into the headtube. Will check mine this eve and report back if it's swimming in there. Any chance it could've come from the cable inlet vents? I've always hoped that they just run down the downtube and out by the motor but should probably check now....

On my washes, I've tried to avoid spraying into the vents, but yes could have gone in there. One of the issues (on my SAM2) is the hole drilled into the headtube, where the down tube joins, is at the same level as the bottom of the down tube ( if that makes sense ) so water can easily make its way forward.

Removing the plastic covers and looking in though the cable vent ports is the best way to ee into the headtube.

I have noticed that everything on bike was assembled very dry, so that threads will start to rust and creak with winter conditions (dry/wet/dry cycle). This is pretty normal with direct from factory bikes, I recommend all bolts should be checked and lightly greased by owner. So do a little maintenance and lightly grease those bolts when you check them for tightness, maintenance basic that!

Other tips, I've picked up so far:

That nice black plate on down tube (it gets changed for TEC pack) i think is attached by the battery bolts from the bottom (secure battery inside frame). But you get holes on the top with 45deg edges into a thread that can fill with grit and mud. I found that bolts with angled seats, usually used for mounting chainguides/bash guards fit perfectly, and will seal and keep out the crap. a little grease to help seal. REMEMBER TO REMOVE FORST IF TAKING OUT BATTERY OR CHANGING THE PLATE.

There is one bolt hole left on the motor where there would be a third chain guide bolt, you can just get a bolt in there without touching the chainring. Keeps crap out again.

The black plate has two holes drilled, for bottle mount! You will need extra short bolts tho so you don't contact frame. I'm gonna try with Wolf Tooth BRad system to get a bottle and tools mounted.

The bottom motor bash guard is easy to remove, with star bolt driver, catches crud in there so take it off once in a while to clean. i would recommend a light dab of blue thread lock on those bolts when replacing.

You can also check the run for the dropper cable there as well. Keep it unkinked!

I'm gonna get some moto foam to bung in at the back of the motor/frame hole to help keep out the crap from back wheel.

 

[bissona]

On my washes, I've tried to avoid spraying into the vents, but yes could have gone in there. One of the issues (on my SAM2) is the hole drilled into the headtube, where the down tube joins, is at the same level as the bottom of the down tube ( if that makes sense ) so water can easily make its way forward.

Removing the plastic covers and looking in though the cable vent ports is the best way to ee into the headtube.

I have noticed that everything on bike was assembled very dry, so that threads will start to rust and creak with winter conditions (dry/wet/dry cycle). This is pretty normal with direct from factory bikes, I recommend all bolts should be checked and lightly greased by owner. So do a little maintenance and lightly grease those bolts when you check them for tightness, maintenance basic that!

Took the switch and both covers off this evening and no water at all in the head tube, squeaky clean, so may be an issue following your cut down. I also took the opportunity to grease everything so hopefully a little less creaky next time out.

We've had engines off and batteries out several times and all is very simple (except the clearance getting battery in & out). Like the foam idea, will have to have a good snoop around next time I'm down there.

 

[Gravityslave]

Took the switch and both covers off this evening and no water at all in the head tube, squeaky clean, so may be an issue following your cut down. I also took the opportunity to grease everything so hopefully a little less creaky next time out.

We've had engines off and batteries out several times and all is very simple (except the clearance getting battery in & out). Like the foam idea, will have to have a good snoop around next time I'm down there.

Glad to hear, still not sure wear it came from but gonna be careful with water around the headset. Might try and get a new headset seal from Acros.

 

[steve_sordy]

@ bissona: Can you provide a link to the "moto foam" you will be using please?

 

[Gravityslave]

@ bissona: Can you provide a link to the "moto foam" you will be using please?

Here is a link containing info explaining it's use, came out of DH racing mechanics :

10 winter mountain bike hacks - MBR

I'll prob be buying from here:

RFX Race Open Cell Polyurethane Sump Foam (black) Skid And Bash Plate from Dirtbikebitz

 

[bissona]

@ bissona: Can you provide a link to the "moto foam" you will be using please?

To be honest I was just going to use any open cell foam I found around the house!

That said, I like the look of the GS's bottom linky so may throw an order that way.

 

[steve_sordy]

............

That said, I like the look of the GS's bottom linky so may throw an order that way.

Great, but how big is one piece? That image could be any size, and no details are provided on that screen.