Help to specify complete wheelset for road commuting for a Turbo Levo

[gbergama]

Hi All!
First, many thanks to the developers and the community present here. I have found so much useful information here that in the end helped me make a decision to get back to riding trails after a 20-year break, and on an E-BIKE! So, I am not an expert rider and have owned the levo only since last march.

I have a 2018 turbo levo comp - stock. Been wanting to use it for commuting. I am thinking to have a complete "road" wheelset, to quickly swap between on and off-road use. I would commute to work on a daily basis (10km each way), gaining rolling speed and saving my off-road tires for their purpose.

The set would include, wheels, hubs, tires, disc brakes, rear hub and cassette, and everything else necessary for a clean quick swap using thru-axles.

As additional info, my levo has the following specs:
Shifters SRAM GX, one-click shift-lever
Chain set Custom alloy crankarms, Forged steel, 32T
Cassette SRAM PG-1130, 11-speed, 11-42t
Chain KMC X11ET, 11-speed w/ Missing Link™
Front Brake SRAM Guide RE, hydraulic disc, 200mm
Rear Brake SRAM Guide RE, hydraulic disc, 200mm
Front Hub Specialized alloy disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 15x110mm, torque caps, 24h
Rear Hub Specialized alloy disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 12x148mm, 10-/11- speed freehub, 28h
The bike is currently a 27,5" wheel with 2.8 butcher grid tires

I am looking for reliable and good value for money parts, no need to be the highest-end brands or materials (such as carbon fiber wheels).

Can someone help me put up a list of parts, that I can use to shop online and then assemble it myself?

Cheers!

 

[gazz]

hi please look at superstar componements,they have a MTB clearence wheel sale boost hubs ,
just checked the web page 27.5 wheels 23 or 25 mm width sram xd freehub £100 pair ,
these are well made ,i have been using their wheels for two years naw ,very strong build ,use 32 mm tyers

 

[Gary]

As suggested:
ESSENTIAL MTB WHEELS Clearance BOOST 15/148MM - Superstar Components
The above superstar wheels but in 29" and 21mm width would then give you the choice of pretty much any 700c road/touring/gravel tyre. (you won't need emtb specific/rated tyres).
outer diameter won't be far different from your 2.8x27/5 butchers...
using narrow 27.5s would lower the bike quite a bit and reduce it's top end gearing.

Unfortunately you're stuck with mtb 11 speed mtb cassettes which to my knowledge none are available in close range varieties. On the road you really won't ever need a 46t, 42t or 37t sprocket even if you run out of battery but will spend far more time in the smaller sprockets so closer ratios there would increase longevity of your sprockets and chain.
Personally I'd also buy a new chain and switch chains each time you change wheels to keep chain/cassette wear rates similar on each wheelset. (this will add a few minutes faf time to your wheel swap routine though)
Just keep an eye on chainring wear and replace when you can see it's worn by eye.
Guide 200mm discs are pricy - if your hubs use centrelock I suppose you *could* also switch discs over each time. (personally I'd find that a PITA)

some other considerations if commuting all year and in all weathers is added wear and contamination from road mank (polution/salt etc.) which will up mainenance time on suspension parts/pivots and brakes. A frequent cleaning/washing/lubing regime and mudguards will help here. Waxing your chain rather than lubing may also be advantagious. There's a big thread on here with good advise on chain waxing.

 

[gbergama]

As suggested:
ESSENTIAL MTB WHEELS Clearance BOOST 15/148MM - Superstar Components
The above superstar wheels but in 29" and 21mm width would then give you the choice of pretty much any 700c road/touring/gravel tyre. (you won't need emtb specific/rated tyres).
outer diameter won't be far different from your 2.8x27/5 butchers...
using narrow 27.5s would lower the bike quite a bit and reduce it's top end gearing.

Unfortunately you're stuck with mtb 11 speed mtb cassettes which to my knowledge none are available in close range varieties. On the road you really won't ever need a 46t, 42t or 37t sprocket even if you run out of battery but will spend far more time in the smaller sprockets so closer ratios there would increase longevity of your sprockets and chain.
Personally I'd also buy a new chain and switch chains each time you change wheels to keep chain/cassette wear rates similar on each wheelset. (this will add a few minutes faf time to your wheel swap routine though)
Just keep an eye on chainring wear and replace when you can see it's worn by eye.
Guide 200mm discs are pricy - if your hubs use centrelock I suppose you *could* also switch discs over each time. (personally I'd find that a PITA)

some other considerations if commuting all year and in all weathers is added wear and contamination from road mank (polution/salt etc.) which will up mainenance time on suspension parts/pivots and brakes. A frequent cleaning/washing/lubing regime and mudguards will help here. Waxing your chain rather than lubing may also be advantagious. There's a big thread on here with good advise on chain waxing.

Thanks!! These are ordered already! now, its disc brakes, and rear cassette.
Also, thanks for the advice on maintenance as well.

 

[gbergama]

hi please look at superstar componements,they have a MTB clearence wheel sale boost hubs ,
just checked the web page 27.5 wheels 23 or 25 mm width sram xd freehub £100 pair ,
these are well made ,i have been using their wheels for two years naw ,very strong build ,use 32 mm tyers

Thanks, great advice! ordered a pair already!

 

[gbergama]

As suggested:
ESSENTIAL MTB WHEELS Clearance BOOST 15/148MM - Superstar Components
The above superstar wheels but in 29" and 21mm width would then give you the choice of pretty much any 700c road/touring/gravel tyre. (you won't need emtb specific/rated tyres).
outer diameter won't be far different from your 2.8x27/5 butchers...
using narrow 27.5s would lower the bike quite a bit and reduce it's top end gearing.

Unfortunately you're stuck with mtb 11 speed mtb cassettes which to my knowledge none are available in close range varieties. On the road you really won't ever need a 46t, 42t or 37t sprocket even if you run out of battery but will spend far more time in the smaller sprockets so closer ratios there would increase longevity of your sprockets and chain.
Personally I'd also buy a new chain and switch chains each time you change wheels to keep chain/cassette wear rates similar on each wheelset. (this will add a few minutes faf time to your wheel swap routine though)
Just keep an eye on chainring wear and replace when you can see it's worn by eye.
Guide 200mm discs are pricy - if your hubs use centrelock I suppose you *could* also switch discs over each time. (personally I'd find that a PITA)

some other considerations if commuting all year and in all weathers is added wear and contamination from road mank (polution/salt etc.) which will up mainenance time on suspension parts/pivots and brakes. A frequent cleaning/washing/lubing regime and mudguards will help here. Waxing your chain rather than lubing may also be advantagious. There's a big thread on here with good advise on chain waxing.

Gary,
Any recommended tyre? probably there´s a thread somewhere here discussing all that, which I will search as well, but it sure helps to go straight to the point. Cheers

 

[Gary]

For pure road riding?
Depends what your roads are like TBH
there are tons of good tough 28-35mm road tyres suitable for commuting.
higher volume means you can run lower pressures (mainly for comfort but pressure can aid grip too)
higher tpi means more suppleness/comfort in the casing. lower tpi/tougher casing means less.
bead/casing affects weight if that bothers you. (it does me)
tread wise a pure slick will be faster on smooth roads but a fast rolling gravel tyre will be better if you also plan to ride the odd rougher/softer surfaces.
tread compound works similarly to mtb tyres.
as does pricing. ie. Good road tyres are not cheap.

I've ridden roadbikes almost all my life and still run 23/25mm tyres at 115/125psi on poor quality roads on my (non-E) roadbike so I'm probably not best the person to ask advice on road tyres for a 150mm travel Emtb

I'm running 27.5x20 schwalbe Big Bens on my new commuter E-hardtail. but I like to piss about off road, hop kerbs and manual on my commute and take it properly off road a bit too on them.
You can see my set-up here:
splaff about it here:
Vitus E-Sentier pics n specs - post here - EMTB Forums
Big Bens also come in 29"x2.0 and would fit your rims nicely but they're bloody heavy and overkill for pure road riding compared to a proper road tyre.
My 27.5x2.0s are 850g each my tough all season 700x25c road tyres are sub 240g
whatever folk might tell you about weight not mattering when you have a motor all that weight in tyres/rims makes a huge difference to handling, acceleration and ride quality.
Tyre choice also depends on the rider. their weight, speed and riding style as well as personal preferences.
eg. a lightweight, fast skilled rider will benefit more from a light fast but less durable tyre than a heavy clumsy rider would.

 

[routrax]

Gary,
Any recommended tyre? probably there´s a thread somewhere here discussing all that, which I will search as well, but it sure helps to go straight to the point. Cheers

For commuting on road / towpaths, I've always gone for Schwalbe marathons.
I've used them for over 10 yrs, with only one puncture, ever, and that was a mutant thorn that I thought was a bit of metal at first!
Mind you, this was pre-tubeless (for me at least), so their puncture protection was unbeatable.

 

[Joeyrotundo]

Hi gbergama ,
I have been playing around with some Schwalbe Moto-x tires for the road and sure love them.
If you had two identical hubsets on your two wheelsets that would give you the best chance of not having to faff around and re-align the brake calipers between swaps.
It was suggested by another member and was something I did not factor in when I dreamed of quick wheel changes.
Not the end of the world to have to reset the calipers but would be awesome to not have to.


Dt Swiss has a nice E-mtb hub version of their 350 hub.


I ended up using an MTB tire (stock) on the Front and a schwalbe Moto-x in the back for most mixed days. The Specialized front has trail grip and is tolerable on the road. The rear is grippy on the road and rock, loose but fun on the dirt.
I did do a few rides with a moto-x on the front and promptly washed out and ate dirt.
I am doing 30km to 45km mixed road and trail and it seems to be good for now.

On pure road I love the fore and aft Moto-x set up. They are heavy but also rated for fast E-Bike use.

Too much info I know but the same hub thing for both wheelsets is the takeaway point.

Smile-E
Have Fun
Joe

 

[Gary]

rated for fast E-Bike use

You do realise that rating is absolute nonsense, eh?

E bikes don't go any faster than non Ebikes do. (Especially on the road)
I hit 40mph+ on pretty much every non-e bike roadride I do on 25mm tyres weighing less than 240g.
Whereas I've never broken 40mph on my Ebike on any road on any tyres.
Emtbs (rider+motor) generally output less peak wattage than a very strong well conditioned cyclist can. (again. Especially on the road)

Bear in mind Emtbs are simply 7-10kg heavier bikes

So why doesn't the bike industry have a category of tyres "rated for fast 10kg heavier riders"?
or one "rated for really strong riders"?



Schwalbe Marathons as recommended above by @routrax are perfectly good tyres for E-bike commuting on and weigh half as much as a MOTO-X and will have less rolling resistance and better road handling.
Moto-X do "look" quite cool though

 

[gbergama]

Thank you all. This is now a work in progress. This is what I have so far:
- essential boost wheel set - from superstar components - £100
- a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Racers 700C-38 (I hope they will fit - Newbee here, remember!) - £52
- a tubeless kit - arround £40
- an 11 speed rear cassette - £48
- a pair of 200mm SRAM disc brakes - £88
Total so far of £328

Apart from the wheelset, the other stuff is coming from chain reaction...

Now looking for quick release thru-axles and the final components - any intel here? do I need to order spacers, bearings or the likes?

 

[Welshman]

Thank you all. This is now a work in progress. This is what I have so far:
- essential boost wheel set - from superstar components - £100
- a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Racers 700C-38 (I hope they will fit - Newbee here, remember!) - £52
- a tubeless kit - arround £40
- an 11 speed rear cassette - £48
- a pair of 200mm SRAM disc brakes - £88
Total so far of £328

Apart from the wheelset, the other stuff is coming from chain reaction...

Now looking for quick release thru-axles and the final components - any intel here? do I need to order spacers, bearings or the likes?

what wheelset is £100 on superstar???

 

[gbergama]

what wheelset is £100 on superstar???

this one:
ESSENTIAL MTB WHEELS Clearance BOOST 15/148MM - Superstar Components

this was referred on the 2 first replies to my post, by Gary and Gazz.

 

[Gary]

I wouldn't bother with QR thru axles. Allen bolt axles are just as quick. (so long as you have allen keys with you. and why wouldn't you?)
Those tyres will fit your rims fine.
Tubeless kit should work fine (so long as your tape is correctly sized to the rim width). take your time when fitting and be careful to make a small round hole for the vlave. (some guides suggest making an X cut. don't)
Tyres you've bought aren't tubeless ready so may require slightly more sealant than a less porous tubeless specific tyre.

Sounds a nice fast lightweight road commuting set up.

Post pics when it's up and running.

 

[gbergama]

Hi, have been travelling due to work and looking after the family, so had little time to move forward on this project. Quick update on the wheel set:

- discovered that I also needed the speed sensor for the back wheel (remember this is supposed to be a quick swap, right?). Ordered that from Freborn bikes (15.00 pounds+shipping)
- Since I have a SRAM GX, I need to replace the free hub on the back wheel, which comes standard from Superstar as an "XD only" compatible.

On the free hub thing, can someone give me advice? Where to buy, which to buy? Can only the body be changed?

 

[Gary]

You bought the superstar wheels, Aye?
Superstar should be able to supply an XD free hub for them.
It'll probably just pull off/press on (after removing the end caps) but check for any retaining circlip before pulling.
Superstar should be able to advise.
the hubs will probably be Novatec

Your other option:
if your new wheels have a shimano freehub a shimano 11 speed mtb cassette will fit and will index fine with your 11 speed SRAM mech/chain/shifter (same spacing).
I guess you want the 10T sprocket though?

 

[gbergama]

You bought the superstar wheels, Aye?
Superstar should be able to supply an XD free hub for them.
It'll probably just pull off/press on (after removing the end caps) but check for any retaining circlip before pulling.
Superstar should be able to advise.
the hubs will probably be Novatec

Your other option:
if your new wheels have a shimano freehub a shimano 11 speed mtb cassette will fit and will index fine with your 11 speed SRAM mech/chain/shifter (same spacing).
I guess you want the 10T sprocket though?

Gary,

I did get the Novatec wheels from Superstar and they came complete, with hubs. My thinking was: Well, I have SRAM derailleur, SRAM Cassette, therefore my hubs need to be SRAM, right???? Wrong, I should have asked you guys first ...and I think I played the newbie, once I selected SRAM XD HUB when buying the wheels. Actually, these SRAM components are compatible with the SHIMANO hubs. I emailed Superstar and let's wait to see if they can help.

Another alternative would be to buy just the body compatible with the hubs. This might be a cheaper fix, once I already got the 11-speed SRAM cassette....

thanks for the help. will post updates...not sure if this of help to anyone though...cheers

 

[Gary]

Yeah. NX 11 and older (PG) SRAM cassettes use the shimano HG cassette standard.
sorry. didn't realise you wouldn't know the difference.
Would have though SS would swap the freehub if you post the XD one back and pay return postage

 

[gbergama]

Updates here on the final setup for commuting:

It sure looks funny with the skinny tires.
Overall went a little over GBP 400.
SS was very quick to exchange the freehub body. All was assembled last week.
The sensor works fine with the motor and mission control, once there are no big changes in the wheel circumference.

However, the drivetrain is not working well and it does not make sense to me:
Although everything has the same specs in terms of spacings, rear cogs(1x11 SRAM 1130), etc, with the skinny wheels, the chain does not reach 46t cog, shifter stops, as when you reach higher gear
Middle Gears (3 to 8)are fiddly, making the chain jump from one another, or jumping more than one gear when shifting, so not good at all.

Funny thing is that by switching back to the original set, drivetrain is smooth as hell and working properly.

So I wonder If there was something I ordered wrong, something assembled wrong or that I will need to adjust the derailleur every time I switch wheels just as you would do with the disk brake alignment.

Any thoughts?

Thanks to everyone for the help, advice and guidance on this little project of mine

 

[khorn]

Updates here on the final setup for commuting:
View attachment 18477
View attachment 18474

View attachment 18475 View attachment 18476

It sure looks funny with the skinny tires.
Overall went a little over GBP 400.
SS was very quick to exchange the freehub body. All was assembled last week.
The sensor works fine with the motor and mission control, once there are no big changes in the wheel circumference.

However, the drivetrain is not working well and it does not make sense to me:
Although everything has the same specs in terms of spacings, rear cogs(1x11 SRAM 1130), etc, with the skinny wheels, the chain does not reach 46t cog, shifter stops, as when you reach higher gear
Middle Gears (3 to 8)are fiddly, making the chain jump from one another, or jumping more than one gear when shifting, so not good at all.

Funny thing is that by switching back to the original set, drivetrain is smooth as hell and working properly.

So I wonder If there was something I ordered wrong, something assembled wrong or that I will need to adjust the derailleur every time I switch wheels just as you would do with the disk brake alignment.

Any thoughts?

Thanks to everyone for the help, advice and guidance on this little project of mine

My best guess is that you will have to re-index the gears every time you shift the rear wheel unless it’s is exactly the same setup (hub/cassette)

Karsten

 

[gbergama]

My best guess is that you will have to re-index the gears every time you shift the rear wheel unless it’s is exactly the same setup (hub/cassette)

Karsten

Hi Karsten, Theoretically they are the same specs....that´s why it´s confusing..

 

[khorn]

Hi Karsten, Theoretically they are the same specs....that´s why it´s confusing..

Same hub brand/model with the exact same freewheel and exact same cassette?

Karsten

 

[gbergama]

Same hub brand/model with the exact same freewheel and exact same cassette?

Karsten

No, you are right, the freewheel is different as this is a different wheelset...the rest is the same though.

I figured that even being a different wheelset, since all the measures are the same, it would be a perfect fit. Wrong again I guess...

 

[khorn]

No, you are right, the freewheel is different as this is a different wheelset...the rest is the same though.

I figured that even being a different wheelset, since all the measures are the same, it would be a perfect fit. Wrong again I guess...

Indexing gears is a 5 min job if you know how to do it and it is very simple when you get the feel for it. If you have not tried it before, go to YouTube and you you will find a gazillion videos of how to do exact that - Good luck.

Karsten